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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:My old boss used to call him Nailgun Norm, lol. He loves his brad nailer and his table saw, but he has alot of great ideas I think on building stuff efficiently and often cheaply at reasonable quality, if not like, maximum quality and pretty. To counterbalance Norm, a ton of 'The Woodwrights Shop' is streamable on PBS's website too. Depends on which side of the fence you drop it, doesn't it? I typically do it in passes, kinda asking for trouble to do one shot.
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Oct 9, 2021 01:43
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The wildest thing was an episode from the first season in 1989, cutting a groove in the middle of some plywood by just dropping it down on the running table saw, with a note scrolling by on the screen that the safety guard had been removed for filming purposes. And I'm thinking how the hell would you do that with a safety guard. He was also doing dados and even rips with a radial arm saw, which it looks like is completely extinct for home wood workers now. For better or worse, I grew up watching New Yankee Workshop and This Old House so Norm's style is what feels "right" to me. It's also probably what got me interested in woodworking from a young age. I actually spent last night just watching episodes where he builds shop furniture and yeah I got a lot of good ideas from that. Eventually I'll have to watch him build some "real" furniture and we'll see how that goes. I'll be sure to check out 'The Woodwrights Shop' as well.
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Oct 9, 2021 01:55
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FISHMANPET posted:The wildest thing was an episode from the first season in 1989, cutting a groove in the middle of some plywood by just dropping it down on the running table saw, with a note scrolling by on the screen that the safety guard had been removed for filming purposes. And I'm thinking how the hell would you do that with a safety guard. He was also doing dados and even rips with a radial arm saw, which it looks like is completely extinct for home wood workers now. The Woodwright's Shop is good times. Lots of eps on youtube. For added  pay attention to how it's filmed and edited.
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Oct 9, 2021 03:32
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Stultus Maximus posted:Yeah, it is better to do shallow cuts. I did a mortise in one pass and snapped the bit. With my pantorouter and a 19mm router bit (3/4", straight not spiral) I've been able to take serious amounts off quickly.
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Oct 9, 2021 06:14
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His Divine Shadow posted:With my pantorouter and a 19mm router bit (3/4", straight not spiral) I've been able to take serious amounts off quickly. This was a 1/4" straight bit from the cheapest section of a big box.
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Oct 9, 2021 13:13
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OPAONI posted:Thanks. This is very helpful. Also maybe look into epoxy rather than varnish for a surface like that where wear and waterproofness matter more.
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Oct 9, 2021 16:53
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Well, after a stop by the lumber yard in Frederick, MD with the fiance, I'm now suddenly the proud owner of a walnut "cookie" slab. I'm going to try and turn it into a coffee table. I see a lot of those slab table YouTube guys like the hardwax oils. Thoughts about those vs poly?
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Oct 10, 2021 01:45
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How dry is the cookie? I haven't worked with them before, but my impression is that they really like to crack. So I'd be tempted to use an epoxy both as a finish and to fill the cracks.
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Oct 10, 2021 01:59
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:How dry is the cookie? I haven't worked with them before, but my impression is that they really like to crack. So I'd be tempted to use an epoxy both as a finish and to fill the cracks. Great question. Feels pretty dry, but it's probably time to buy a moisture meter. I only realized after i left that i didn't ask after the dryness
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Oct 10, 2021 02:16
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A cookie will dry suuuuper fast, as it has exposed end grain over a large area. The biggest problem with cookies is making sure they don't dry too fast and check or split. Give it a week or two in your conditioned space and it's probably good to go. If there are any checks visible be prepared to stabilize them with epoxy, bowties, or both.
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Oct 10, 2021 13:57
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I've had a chunk of rock maple bowling alley flooring for a while: It's not quite flat across the narrow axis, it's bowed up somewhat. Also there are some troubling cracks lengthwise where the glue joints are kind of open:    I'd like to make this into a workbench top. One option would be to just rip cut it apart on the cracks, then glue it back together. Problem is I'm fairly certain my glue-up wouldn't fare much better, if not significantly worse. Same with trying to flatten out any bowing- I'm not a super careful woodworker and I'm not sure I can improve it. Any ideas on what I might do, if anything? I also have two reasonably decent vises I'd want to incorporate into the final bench.   Any ideas on what kind of bench style might work? I don't think I'm up for, or able, to make a proper mortise-and-tenon bench. I'm also pretty certain I'll need a miter saw to do this- truth be told my 90° cuts have always been sorely lacking.
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Oct 10, 2021 18:57
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Uncle Enzo posted:I've had a chunk of rock maple bowling alley flooring for a while: I tried to make one into a workbench and it was a terrible experience attempting to disassemble it. Not only was it nailed, glued, and screwed, but once I relieved the pressure on the planks they split left and right. Eventually I had to burn the whole works. If I did it again I'd build a solid base and then make a router sled to flatten the top without disassembling anything. Woodwhisperer has a good video where he flattens a big surface with a router sled.
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Oct 10, 2021 19:53
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Yooper posted:I tried to make one into a workbench and it was a terrible experience attempting to disassemble it. Not only was it nailed, glued, and screwed, but once I relieved the pressure on the planks they split left and right. Eventually I had to burn the whole works. I was going to add something similar. An old timer whose house I worked on bought up a bunch of bowling alley maple and the pieces were held together with cutnails, as I recall. I don't even know if it was glued up, but his were in good enough shape otherwise. He cut them up into massive 30" x 30" chunks for his kitchen flooring.
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Oct 10, 2021 20:09
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The moisture meter I bought from Lowes suggested that the moisture content was like 6%. So pretty dry. I spent some time de-barking it this afternoon. I haven't really used these Narex chisels my fiance got me last christmas very much, but they're drat sharp out of the box. I started out using that mallet but partway through realized that I could just shave the bark off because it was so much softer than the walnut.  There's a small amount of checking and a few knots that I'll need to fill with epoxy but overall it's in good shape. The whole thing is pretty flat too. I might build a flattening jig for my router and just do some light passes to get it completely flat.
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Oct 10, 2021 22:39
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Danhenge posted:Well, after a stop by the lumber yard in Frederick, MD with the fiance, I'm now suddenly the proud owner of a walnut "cookie" slab. I'm going to try and turn it into a coffee table. I see a lot of those slab table YouTube guys like the hardwax oils. Thoughts about those vs poly? I tried Rubio on some stuff, easy to use but it really almost feels like paint when it's the color or tinted versions. Also in my experience, it will feel exactly how you sanded your piece, be that good or bad. I was finding it disappointing but I also could have been applying it poorly. I use Briwax now because I use cheap birch and maple plywood anyway, so it blends out the blotch while allowing a lot of the wood grain and some chatoyance to come through; also super easy to correct and clean up after, and leaves a nice waxed finish.
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Oct 10, 2021 22:58
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Wasabi the J posted:I tried Rubio on some stuff, easy to use but it really almost feels like paint when it's the color or tinted versions. Also in my experience, it will feel exactly how you sanded your piece, be that good or bad. I was finding it disappointing but I also could have been applying it poorly. Thanks, that's helpful! I'm looking to do a relatively clear coating, because I mostly just want to make the rings/grain pop.
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Oct 10, 2021 23:10
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Uncle Enzo posted:I've had a chunk of rock maple bowling alley flooring for a while: I wouldn't even mess with the cracks, just build a big base that doesn't rack (which doesn't have to involve mortise and tenon joinery) and suck that thing down tight onto apron rails with some big tabletop buttons/long batten/etc. The crack will close up to a degree and you shouldn't have a problem forcing some of the bow out of it. After that, if the crack bothers you I think you can just rip an inch or so down with a rail and circular saw and glue in a thin strip of hardwood (or just fill it with epoxy).
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Oct 10, 2021 23:27
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2 questions: I'm about to get a planer, speciffically the Dewalt DW735x. How do you all feel about that particular model considering I don't have the space for a full size? Secondly, what is a half decent finish for white oak? Going to use it for a tabletop, would like it to be dark and not quite as shiny, but open to ideas.
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Oct 11, 2021 00:32
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The 735 is the gold standard for planers below either 15" four post planers or 12"+ combo jointer/planers. Going to replace mine with a j/p combo soon but it has served me well.
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Oct 11, 2021 01:04
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How dark? India ink looks fantastic on white oak IMO, hit it with some matte poly after for durability.
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Oct 11, 2021 01:19
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NomNomNom posted:How dark? India ink looks fantastic on white oak IMO, hit it with some matte poly after for durability. Wanted dark like walnut but the walnut at the lumber yard wasn’t gonna work for what we needed.
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Oct 11, 2021 02:01
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Having used a bunch of different "traditional" formulations and Stickley-branded nonsense for years I recently found that this stuff is an exact match for a lot of antique arts-and-crafts style oak. Put a coat or two on depending how absorbent the board is, slap on some waterlox, call it a day
A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Oct 11, 2021 |
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Oct 11, 2021 02:52
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Lately, in addition to all the radial arm saws, I've seen a handful of old Craftsman shapers floating around. Seems maybe even more lowkey dangerous than the radial arm saws.
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Oct 11, 2021 03:17
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I'd be sure to count the fingers on the guy selling it at the very least
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Oct 11, 2021 03:20
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Uncle Enzo posted:I've had a chunk of rock maple bowling alley flooring for a while: There's going to be a ton of nails in the bowling alley, so I would not recommend trying to disassemble or cut it apart. Build a stout base that can support it and possible take any bow out of the width. I used a bowling alley for my bench, I laminated strips of maple to the front and back to make drilling dog holes easier and then made sure there was an apron running across the width to support it. 
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Oct 11, 2021 03:40
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Danhenge posted:Lately, in addition to all the radial arm saws, I've seen a handful of old Craftsman shapers floating around. Seems maybe even more lowkey dangerous than the radial arm saws. That goofy assed lattice table always bugged hell out of me. I always had a lot of respect for a shaper except that one time I didn't. Last cut of a cold rainy day, as always. Pureed the side of my pinky finger, I was very fortunate. A Wizard of Goatse posted:I'd be sure to count the fingers on the guy selling it at the very least Yeah, wouldn't hurt.
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Oct 11, 2021 04:13
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I can't imagine ever needing a shaper in a hobby shop. If i switched careers and needed one professionally I'd only use it with a power feeder setup and take the Kaiser Schnitzel approach of crouching behind it every time I turned it on.
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Oct 11, 2021 04:57
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Anyone ever think it's weird that there's two wholly different tools called a shaper? Like that's a lot more than the difference between a wood lathe and a metal lathe.
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Oct 11, 2021 05:58
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Wait, I only know the one that looks like an oversized router in a table. What's the other?
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Oct 11, 2021 12:14
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NomNomNom posted:Wait, I only know the one that looks like an oversized router in a table. What's the other? Isn't a big stationary sanding disk also called a "shaper"? Cuz thats what I use it for 
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Oct 11, 2021 12:56
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A Wizard of Goatse posted:Having used a bunch of different "traditional" formulations and Stickley-branded nonsense for years I recently found that this stuff is an exact match for a lot of antique arts-and-crafts style oak. Put a coat or two on depending how absorbent the board is, slap on some waterlox, call it a day If you do want to have fun with chemicals, potassium permanganate will got those rich browns in oak and is average caustic chemical dangerous, not super duper nasty like potassium bichromate. NomNomNom posted:Wait, I only know the one that looks like an oversized router in a table. What's the other? Here's a planer planing a jointer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrV6ejviiG8
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Oct 11, 2021 13:21
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:
Also super fun exothermic oxidation reaction with glycerin.
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Oct 11, 2021 15:55
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Two questions, that are mostly safety related: Yesterday was doing a long cut down some 3/4th mdf with a circular saw and had a lot of trouble and more kickback than ever before. But I don't know why. It was with a plywood blade, should I have been using my ripcut blade? I set the blade depth so that the teeth were below the other side of the board, but not the part of the blade without teeth. It was supported on both sides of the cut, but not directly under the cut. Basically I did what I always do with non-mdf wood, but it didn't work. Though I rarely do cuts 48 inches long. Also, There's some scrap stock I glued up to make into a handle but hosed up and it's not very square. Should have clamped it horizontally before clamping vertically but lesson learned. I was thinking of using router table with a flush trim bit. How can I safely hold this while table routing? It's about 5 inches long and 1.5 across. 
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Oct 11, 2021 21:36
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MDF is really hard on sawblades. It might just be that your blade is dull? As for that bit of stock, I'd personally prefer a handplane for cleaning that up. But if you want to do a router trim bit, I think it should be doable with a router table, so you can make sure you only do light passes. I definitely wouldn't recommend trying to use a handheld router to clean that piece up, it's way too small.
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Oct 11, 2021 23:19
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Serenade posted:Two questions, that are mostly safety related: MDF is composed primarily of wood pulp and glue, which makes it a very different beast from most other wood products. The glue, in particular, makes it generally harder on blades, and builds up heat on them faster. It might help to think of MDF as really, really thick paper when you're working out how to cut it. Your three best mitigators for safely and cleanly cutting MDF are carbide teeth, heavy hooks on those teeth, and a high overall tooth count. All three is ideal, but if you can only do two, go with carbide and high tooth count (I prefer 100, but 60-80 works, too), and move along your cut way slower than you think you should. Thin kerf blades get an honorable mention here, because they do make cutting MDF easier, but the tradeoff is they're more likely to build up heat and warp on you. For evening up the handle blank, I'm a big fan of anything that keeps your hands far away from the blade, particularly after nearly losing my own thumb to my router table a couple of years ago. You can get by just fine with a fence, featherboard, and a couple of push sticks, but if you're looking for more control, a router sled is pretty great. Whatever you do there, it's going to want very light passes until everything's even. Suntan Boy fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Oct 12, 2021 |
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Oct 12, 2021 00:08
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After a few years of these homemade guides: I decided to get rid of the bearings. They where a PITA if you ask me. Difficult to adjust just right unless you are OK with them making full contact (noisy as all hell and the bearings don't last). The thrust bearing works better though, it only needs to spin when I am actually cutting. So instead I've replaced it with some simple oiled hardwood blocks. Much easier to adjust, they guide the blade better, a lot quieter and can be made from scraps. 
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Oct 12, 2021 11:13
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Huh, guess MDF is tougher than I thought. I assumed it was on the same level as plywood. It's possible the blade is dull, but I was also definitely not going slow. Better luck next time.Suntan Boy posted:For evening up the handle blank, I'm a big fan of anything that keeps your hands far away from the blade, particularly after nearly losing my own thumb to my router table a couple of years ago. You can get by just fine with a fence, featherboard, and a couple of push sticks, but if you're looking for more control, a router sled is pretty great. Whatever you do there, it's going to want very light passes until everything's even. That router sled is something I've been looking for. It's a bit heavy handed for this exact project, but for general use.
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Oct 12, 2021 13:22
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I started cleaning out my mom's garage this weekend. She said I had to finish up actually cleaning the place before I could start going through my father's tools, otherwise I'd never get anything done. I did take a quick look for anything I'd want to use immediately. I somehow spotted a curious looking thing. My heart quickened - was it a Stanley 45 combination plane? I've been wanting a plow plane! These things go for way too much on eBay! So I slowly uncovered a Stanley 4.....6?  Did some research and it's a more focused plane than the 45, basically just for grooves and dados and a lot of people say it's more effective since it isn't trying to be everything at once. Sweet! And the blades aren't compatible with anything else so they cost a ton of money. Less sweet! Anyway, the thing is in rough shape. It probably hasn't been touched since it was my grandfather's and he died in like 1962. I'm going to have to carve a new forward knob, obviously. More immediately, the metal parts are all entirely frozen in place. To start out, is there anything I can soak this in to loosen up all the moving parts without damaging the tote and rosewood fence?
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Oct 12, 2021 23:18
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Stultus Maximus posted:I started cleaning out my mom's garage this weekend. She said I had to finish up actually cleaning the place before I could start going through my father's tools, otherwise I'd never get anything done. I’ve used a brass “toothbrush” with a mixture of gum spirits and jojoba oil to clean my old planes. The spirits break up the gunk, the oil prevents rust. I don’t think it needs to be jojoba, but Lie-Nielsen recommends it for rust prevention on planes. I have a #45 that needs more cutters, and I’ve been told the cutters for the veritas combo plane will fit, but I haven’t tried yet.
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Oct 13, 2021 00:31
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Stultus Maximus posted:
PB blaster works pretty well at freeing stuff up and you can probably not get it on the wood. 50/50 acetone/automatic transmission fluid is an old machinist superjuice for freeing up seized stuff too and it works really well and penetrates better than about anything. I imagine you'll clean and refinish the tote/handle anyway so I wouldn't worry too much about keeping oil off them. Shellac or lacquer will bring out the pretty in rosewood much better than oil, but you can oil it with a drying oil like linseed oil and then shellac/lacquer over it once it dries if you want. The BLO should even out any oil stains.
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Oct 13, 2021 00:56
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