Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Heliosicle posted:

I can see the rotor moving in between the pads when I apply pressure to the rim though.
Unless you have your pads really really tight to the rotor, that suggests the hub has loose enough bearings to allow that kind of tilt around the axle.

quote:

Right now the tyre is 5-10mm off to one side relative to the mudguard when looking from the top, but the rotor is centered in the caliper.
Either there's still enough tolerance in the pads that even though the rotor is tilted, it's still not rubbing, but it will with more use and further tilting
OR --

quote:

So it could just be a particularly flexy fork

Maybe... the blades of the fork are able to shift a bit and steadily drift under use but somehow get reset when you redo the skewer.


I think the bearings are much more likely. With cone bearings, redoing the skewer and tightening everything will have the expected behavior of centering the hub around the axle and thus centering the tire in the fork. If that's the reason, a stronger skewer would hold things together for longer, but ultimately you'd want to adjust the cones, if possible, or address the bearings (replacing the whole wheel might be worth it or more possible over having the bearings serviced).

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

Heliosicle posted:

Seems to move over time yeah, although the wheel seems (mostly) true, without side to side wobble when I spin the wheel.

No noticeable wobble/knocking feeling in the hub when I try to move the wheel by hand. I can see the rotor moving in between the pads when I apply pressure to the rim though.

Right now the tyre is 5-10mm off to one side relative to the mudguard when looking from the top, but the rotor is centered in the caliper.

So it could just be a particularly flexy fork/rim causing rubbing during corners? If the wheel is otherwise correctly mounted. Will still order a new skewer, the current one is Shimano but non-groupset

A flexy rim won't cause this. Your rotors are attached to a solid chunk of metal (the hub) and not the rims. Either you have incorrect preload on the bearings, play in the bearings, a flexy fork, or aren't doing your QR tight enough. Also you should spin your wheel and let it coast...are your rotors still wobbling? If so, you should true your rotors anyway.

Sab0921
Aug 2, 2004

This for my justices slingin' thangs, rib breakin' kings / Truck, necklace, robe, gavel and things / For the solicitors seein' them dissents spin and grin / That robe with the lace trim that win.
Dumb question - how often do you have to replace tubeless sealant?

How do you check to know its time to replace it?

HAIL eSATA-n
Apr 7, 2007


Sab0921 posted:

Dumb question - how often do you have to replace tubeless sealant?

How do you check to know its time to replace it?

Remove air, remove valve core, stick something in there to the bottom of the tire and see if any sealant is left. Orange seal 'endurance' is supposed to last ~6 months or so depending on temp/humidity/tires.

Sab0921
Aug 2, 2004

This for my justices slingin' thangs, rib breakin' kings / Truck, necklace, robe, gavel and things / For the solicitors seein' them dissents spin and grin / That robe with the lace trim that win.

HAIL eSATA-n posted:

Remove air, remove valve core, stick something in there to the bottom of the tire and see if any sealant is left. Orange seal 'endurance' is supposed to last ~6 months or so depending on temp/humidity/tires.

I guess it's time for more sealant for me.

e.pilot
Nov 20, 2011

sometimes maybe good
sometimes maybe shit

Sab0921 posted:

Dumb question - how often do you have to replace tubeless sealant?

How do you check to know its time to replace it?

6mo give or take.

Or take the e.pilot approach and just completely forget to do it until you get a flat because there’s nothing left to seal it lol.

That reminds me I need to check my sealant, it’s been *checks notes* like a year

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

meltie posted:

Why are people removing the tyre?

Get out of that mindset; you don't need to do that with tubeless.

If you get a hole that doesn't seal up, plug the tyre from the outside using a tubeless plug kit, leaving the tyre mounted on the rim while you do it.

You only ever take they tyre off when it's at the end of its life and you're replacing it — which you do at home in the garage without mess.

Because it’s the only way to fix a non-sealing puncture in a tubeless tyre if you don’t have the 1 type of plug that works for road tubeless.

Giant apparently don’t mention plugs when they sell you a tubeless setup bike, and don’t even sell that type of plug. Nor do most bike shops in the UK.

I’ve seen inexperienced riders have a bad time, having been sold tubeless as a magical end to punctures - I don’t doubt that it can work and is worth it for some.

meltie
Nov 9, 2003

Not a sodding fridge.

Sab0921 posted:

Dumb question - how often do you have to replace tubeless sealant?

How do you check to know its time to replace it?

Take the wheel off and shake it. If it sloshes you've got enough.

Hokkaido Anxiety
May 21, 2007

slub club 2013

e.pilot posted:

6mo give or take.

Or take the e.pilot approach and just completely forget to do it until you get a flat because there’s nothing left to seal it lol.

That reminds me I need to check my sealant, it’s been *checks notes* like a year

This is me but I find out when I start losing tire pressure overnight.

Project M.A.M.I.L.
Apr 30, 2007

Older, balder, fatter...
If no sound you heed, a top up you need
if sloshing there be, ride on care-free!

HAIL eSATA-n
Apr 7, 2007


I'm getting a lot of conflicting info about tubeless and I don't know whether to believe the people that ride their bikes or someone that has cool anecdotes about a friend they knew once that was sold something maybe.

osker
Dec 18, 2002

Wedge Regret
My cousin in Trinidad won’t get tubeless cuz his friend got it & became impotent. His testicles became swollen. His friend was weeks away from getting married, now the girl called off the wedding. So just pray on it & make sure you’re comfortable with ur decision, not bullied

osker fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Oct 13, 2021

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



osker posted:

My cousin in Trinidad won’t get tubeless cuz his friend got it & became impotent. His testicles became swollen. His friend was weeks away from getting married, now the girl called off the wedding. So just pray on it & make sure you’re comfortable with ur decision, not bullied

:discourse:

Wendigee
Jul 19, 2004

Helmet chat:

So I ended up going to my local bike shop as recommended, lady was super nice.

I found one that seems to fit really well... but.. like it's supposed to just kind of sit high up on the head? it comes down to 1 finger width above my eyebrows in the front which is what she said was a proper fit. It just looks kinda goofy. I guess I'm probably just used to motorcycle helmets.

It's an Align II XL from Specialized. 60 bucks after tax and its Mips rated if thats even something to consider.

Did I do okay?

Wendigee fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Oct 14, 2021

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


Yeah that all sounds good. Does the occipital cradle at the back fit under your skull comfortably?

Wendigee
Jul 19, 2004

HenryJLittlefinger posted:

Yeah that all sounds good. Does the occipital cradle at the back fit under your skull comfortably?

is that the part that sticks down below the helmet a bit in the back that that you tighten? I've got a little skull edge there and it seems to catch on it comfortable which I'm guessing is what your asking so it won't flip off towards the front?

yeah its there and its comfy

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

Sab0921 posted:

Dumb question - how often do you have to replace tubeless sealant?

How do you check to know its time to replace it?

I have a KOM Cycling syringe with a thin hose. It goes inside the valve and I can suck out the sealant pooled at the bottom.

I can't answer the second bit definitively. Here are some variables that will affect sealant evaporation rates.

- Tire construction, air retention. Basically this means the tire is better sealed, period. Something like the Goodyear Eagle F1 tubeless tire loses less than 2psi a week. My current Challenge Strada Pro tubeless tires are losing 15psi after one day, albeit I've only had them installed for a week. When I checked the Orange Seal in those tires 3 months later, it was was if there was no evaporation at all.

- Environment. Humid vs arid. Hot vs cold. Bike stored with tires exposed to direct sunlight or not. Again, a huge effect. A bike stored in a cool, dark place won't need its sealant changed often.

- How much do you ride...This is a continuation of above. If you ride more, you'll expose your tires to more sun and probably more heat.

- How much did you use to begin with. Use more and it'll stay liquid longer. Use less and the rate of evaporation increases because more surface area vs volume.

- Sealant brand. Slime basically doesn't dry out. Bontrager sealant also lasts a long time, but also seems to weep through tire sidewalls more readily. Orange Seal is one of the quicker drying sealants, but it's the only one you should use.

I would not use Orange Seal Endurance unless I lived in a very hot climate. NorCal summers do not count.

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

Wendigee posted:


I found one that seems to fit really well... but.. like it's supposed to just kind of sit high up on the head? it comes down to 1 finger width above my eyebrows in the front which is what she said was a proper fit. It just looks kinda goofy. I guess I'm probably just used to motorcycle helmets.

Everbody's head is different. I have a tall head so there's going to be a gap to my browline regardless, and also a gap to the top of my ears.

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm

TobinHatesYou posted:

I would not use Orange Seal Endurance unless I lived in a very hot climate. NorCal summers do not count.
Come through the 24 tunnel :tif:

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

kimbo305 posted:

I left a wheel with sealant against the dampest wall of my basement for over two years, and it was still fully liquid when I finally popped it open.

HAIL eSATA-n
Apr 7, 2007


Goon brags about damp basement

HAIL eSATA-n
Apr 7, 2007


Tobin, why do you recommend against orange seal endurance outside of hot climates?

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

HAIL eSATA-n posted:

Tobin, why do you recommend against orange seal endurance outside of hot climates?

You're trading sealing power for longevity.

HenryJLittlefinger
Jan 31, 2010

stomp clap


Wendigee posted:

is that the part that sticks down below the helmet a bit in the back that that you tighten? I've got a little skull edge there and it seems to catch on it comfortable which I'm guessing is what your asking so it won't flip off towards the front?

yeah its there and its comfy

Yeah, it should tighten up comfortably snug around the base of your skull. It’s not so much to keep the helmet in place on your head (though it does do that), it’s to support your skull as evenly as possible.
If it’s comfortable and moves your scalp around when you grab it and shift it around, you’re good to go.

Heliosicle
May 16, 2013

Arigato, Racists.

kimbo305 posted:

Unless you have your pads really really tight to the rotor, that suggests the hub has loose enough bearings to allow that kind of tilt around the axle.

Either there's still enough tolerance in the pads that even though the rotor is tilted, it's still not rubbing, but it will with more use and further tilting
OR --

Maybe... the blades of the fork are able to shift a bit and steadily drift under use but somehow get reset when you redo the skewer.


I think the bearings are much more likely. With cone bearings, redoing the skewer and tightening everything will have the expected behavior of centering the hub around the axle and thus centering the tire in the fork. If that's the reason, a stronger skewer would hold things together for longer, but ultimately you'd want to adjust the cones, if possible, or address the bearings (replacing the whole wheel might be worth it or more possible over having the bearings serviced).


TobinHatesYou posted:

A flexy rim won't cause this. Your rotors are attached to a solid chunk of metal (the hub) and not the rims. Either you have incorrect preload on the bearings, play in the bearings, a flexy fork, or aren't doing your QR tight enough. Also you should spin your wheel and let it coast...are your rotors still wobbling? If so, you should true your rotors anyway.

The bike has about 1000km on it since I got it new in June, I noticed this from the start though so don't think it's wear related. The hub is a DH-3D37 dynamo, since it's Shimano it definitely has cone bearings right? Have never tried adjusting the bearing but will look at how and give it a go

Re: flexy fork, the reason I mention this is that when I undo the QR fully the fork spacing expands by quite a bit (5-10mm maybe?), far far more than the fork on my road bike.

The rotor seems to have a little wobble when I spin the wheel, but (due to the dynamo I guess) it only completes a couple of revolutions so it's hard to eye it up. There didn't look to be any contact with the pads though.

Seems like my best course of action is to get a better skewer and also check the bearings and see how that affects things

Skarsnik
Oct 21, 2008

I...AM...RUUUDE!




I've never had issues with endurance sealing in winter here, seems to work just as well in any weather

I've just pulled the winter bike out of storage and still got plenty of orange spaff sloshing around in there, tires inflated back up no issues at all

Lex Neville
Apr 15, 2009

Heliosicle posted:

I'm aiming at getting electronic shifting on my next bike, but with how expensive bikes specced with it have become in the last couple of years that may be a while.



Got soaked through and really muddy but had a lot of fun. Climbing rules. Going to train up for the 180km route next year :v:

I just signed up for the 150km Amstel Gold Race for next year. You know what to do which is put my rear end to shame by doing the 200km or 250km!

Unfortunately signing up does not necessarily mean you get to take part, so fingers crossed

MrL_JaKiri
Sep 23, 2003

A bracing glass of carrot juice!

Lex Neville posted:

I just signed up for the 150km Amstel Gold Race for next year. You know what to do which is put my rear end to shame by doing the 200km or 250km!

Unfortunately signing up does not necessarily mean you get to take part, so fingers crossed

I've signed up for the 240

Lex Neville
Apr 15, 2009
good poo poo! I would've loved to go for that one too, but I'll be part of a group

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Lex Neville posted:

good poo poo! I would've loved to go for that one too, but I'll be part of a group

The autobus???

I’m sorry

eeenmachine
Feb 2, 2004

BUY MORE CRABS
Question I should know by now. Is everyone just topping off sealant as needed until the next pair of tires or do you actually remove the tire and clean out dried up sealant gunk at some point?

Skarsnik
Oct 21, 2008

I...AM...RUUUDE!




eeenmachine posted:

Question I should know by now. Is everyone just topping off sealant as needed until the next pair of tires or do you actually remove the tire and clean out dried up sealant gunk at some point?

Unless we're talking mountain bike tire volumes it's a few grams at most so nope

Lex Neville
Apr 15, 2009

Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

The autobus???

I’m sorry

Spurred on by your remark, determined to become faster, I decided to hop on my trainer right away. However, first I went to undo and fasten my seat post clamp to the right torque setting using my new torque wrench, mostly to try it out (but also I thought I heard a creak a while ago and I figured it couldn't hurt to check). When I did it back up again, the bolt loving exploded, with one end flying through my living room and the other being stuck in the clamp still. A trip to my LBS later, I'm getting a new seat post clamp on Wednesday. Look what you did!

VideoGameVet
May 14, 2005

It is by caffeine alone I set my bike in motion. It is by the juice of Java that pedaling acquires speed, the teeth acquire stains, stains become a warning. It is by caffeine alone I set my bike in motion.

Bike Friday Tikit?

Fun place to ride:

Lex Neville
Apr 15, 2009
Hi thread, I have a question. Do you guys think it's safe to ride my Giant Defy 0 2015 on my smart trainer with the seat post clamp having only one bolt in, the upper to be precise? I weigh 73 kg give or take - I believe the clamp takes two bolts because the Defy is tailored towards heavier riders (?). (I added the link as there's a picture of the seat post.)

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Lex Neville posted:

Spurred on by your remark, determined to become faster, I decided to hop on my trainer right away. However, first I went to undo and fasten my seat post clamp to the right torque setting using my new torque wrench, mostly to try it out (but also I thought I heard a creak a while ago and I figured it couldn't hurt to check). When I did it back up again, the bolt loving exploded, with one end flying through my living room and the other being stuck in the clamp still. A trip to my LBS later, I'm getting a new seat post clamp on Wednesday. Look what you did!

Sounds like I managed to get you an upgrade, you should be thankful!

Lex Neville posted:

Hi thread, I have a question. Do you guys think it's safe to ride my Giant Defy 0 2015 on my smart trainer with the seat post clamp having only one bolt in, the upper to be precise? I weigh 73 kg give or take - I believe the clamp takes two bolts because the Defy is tailored towards heavier riders (?). (I added the link as there's a picture of the seat post.)

I imagine it would be fine since you’re not going to have any potholes or other bumps causing a load on the post. Just don’t get on the trainer like you’re doing a CX remount

e.pilot
Nov 20, 2011

sometimes maybe good
sometimes maybe shit

VideoGameVet posted:

Bike Friday Tikit?

Pocket Rocket

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

Heliosicle posted:

The bike has about 1000km on it since I got it new in June, I noticed this from the start though so don't think it's wear related. The hub is a DH-3D37 dynamo, since it's Shimano it definitely has cone bearings right? Have never tried adjusting the bearing but will look at how and give it a go

Re: flexy fork, the reason I mention this is that when I undo the QR fully the fork spacing expands by quite a bit (5-10mm maybe?), far far more than the fork on my road bike.

The rotor seems to have a little wobble when I spin the wheel, but (due to the dynamo I guess) it only completes a couple of revolutions so it's hard to eye it up. There didn't look to be any contact with the pads though.

Seems like my best course of action is to get a better skewer and also check the bearings and see how that affects things

At this point I think it's all of the above causing issues, not one thing.

Lex Neville
Apr 15, 2009

Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

Sounds like I managed to get you an upgrade, you should be thankful!

I imagine it would be fine since you’re not going to have any potholes or other bumps causing a load on the post. Just don’t get on the trainer like you’re doing a CX remount

Thanks! For the second part, that is :haw:

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002
thinking of upgrading from my Shimano a530 pedals to either m540 or xtr8120, any huge benefit to the 8120 pedal platform over the m540 (which doesn't have it)?

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply