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They're fine really, they're not going to be as smooth and durable as the lacquer and you still don't really want to be huffing the alcohol fumes but I do just fine with a respirator and cracking the window when I want to paint.
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Oct 14, 2021 21:47
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Charliegrs posted:I do only car models and mainly I've painted the bodies with Tamiya Spray cans, which are lacquer paints. I've recently got into airbrushing and I've started experimenting with Tamiya lacquers paints that come in the jars. I've used Tamiya acrylic jars for a long time but not for the body but mostly other things like suspension and interior bits. I haven’t used the lacquer paints in the jar but the acrylic paints do ok through an airbrush for the body of the car. I tend to use mr hobby leveling thinner with mine to assist with smoothness. You should look at getting yourself a decent p2 mask for spraying and think about doing it in an area that has plenty of ventilation cause it’s not good to be breathing that poo poo in consistently.
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Oct 14, 2021 21:48
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nitsuga posted:934 is well under way now, but I really don’t like painting the rubber bits on the car’s body. Some of it went well with the paint marker, some didn’t. I’ve been able to scrape most of the splotches thankfully. Will do more and try smoothing things out with a mini brush. Are you painting the black trim freehand? That might be why the line isn't smooth. I did a similar 911 model but I masked off the area with tape and got a very clean trim line. You might want to get some Tamiya tape it's safe to put over painted surfaces.
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Oct 15, 2021 01:23
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Charliegrs posted:Are you painting the black trim freehand? That might be why the line isn't smooth. I did a similar 911 model but I masked off the area with tape and got a very clean trim line. You might want to get some Tamiya tape it's safe to put over painted surfaces. Yeah, that was it. I taped things for a second round that turned out a lot better. I’ll plan on starting with that next time. The Tamiya tape really is great.
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Oct 15, 2021 02:35
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Grumio posted:Haven't heard from our resident boat builders in a while, any updates? I've been restoring a 1917 No. 1 mk. III Lee Enfield from a cut down sporter to its original military configuration. I work on boats in the winter, mainly.
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Oct 15, 2021 10:00
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Fearless posted:I've been restoring a 1917 No. 1 mk. III Lee Enfield from a cut down sporter to its original military configuration. I work on boats in the winter, mainly. Post it here.
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Oct 15, 2021 10:33
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I'm shocked, I only snapped once piece trying to get this absolutely bastard wiring done. 
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Oct 15, 2021 17:34
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As a weird flex for Tamiya tape, we put a temporary cover over the bright led control panel in our bedroom. It gets flipped up and down twice a day, bending the tape along the seam. Six years later, I finally had to replace the tape as it had split. Tough stuff!
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Oct 15, 2021 18:04
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Done.
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Oct 15, 2021 21:33
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Sultan Tarquin posted:I'm shocked, I only snapped once piece trying to get this absolutely bastard wiring done. this is beautiful
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Oct 15, 2021 22:30
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I've done a number of Revell car models and never really had any issues with the decals. But the decals for this 70 Plymouth AAR Cuda model I'm working on have some weird kind of issue with the glue. I cut them out, dunked them in some water and after about 10 seconds the glue started to coagulate and turn yellow. I applied the decals on the body anyway and I was able to rub away most of this weird yellow glue but there was some on the underside of the decal that I couldnt remove and now it's dried and looks ugly as hell. This is pre clear coat:  Anyone know why it's doing this? Maybe the kit has been sitting around for a long time and they are just old decals. There's probably nothing I can do about these decals but in the future is there anything I can do about this?
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Oct 16, 2021 00:43
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Month 4 for the agora models leopard 2a6 done. I have to be careful of the time I put together the parts due to the tracks requiring a hammer for assembly which isn't a good idea to wield late at night in an apartment. If you look in the lower right corner, you can see the linkage parts that need to be assembled together for making the tracks. Those are currently spares that I suspect will come back to being needed on assembling the last pads together for a full loop. There are three of each for every pack. Need to catch up on the enterprise d next though. I'm already 2 months behind with it. For some reason, I'm more excited for the leopard though. I guess because it'll be an rc vehicle when it is done instead of a light up display like the enterprise.
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Oct 17, 2021 04:36
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Zoukei-Mura is reprinting some of their OOP kits: https://volksusastore.com/webstores/scale/index.php?dispatch=categories.view&category_id=1999 Think im gonna grab the 1/48 J7W1
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Oct 17, 2021 04:51
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JuffoWup posted:Month 4 for the agora models leopard 2a6 done. Those tracks look good. If you're going to run it, I suggest putting some super glue on the outside of the track pieces you hammer on, oval piece with the 2 holes. I had to do that on my Tamiya tracks to keep those pieces on. Or maybe do the maiden run in doors on carpet where you can find them if they fly off? Think I lost all but a few of my spares before I did that. That was 40 years ago, so maybe the tech is better.
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Oct 17, 2021 13:09
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MarxCarl posted:Those tracks look good. If you're going to run it, I suggest putting some super glue on the outside of the track pieces you hammer on, oval piece with the 2 holes. I had to do that on my Tamiya tracks to keep those pieces on. Or maybe do the maiden run in doors on carpet where you can find them if they fly off? Think I lost all but a few of my spares before I did that. That was 40 years ago, so maybe the tech is better. I'll keep that in mind. But of note though, the perfect oval piece is a middle spacer part that floats. There is a gap in each of the sections where it sits while linked to the two rods. The one with the pinched side is an end connector. One is already put on at the factory with two rods. And you are left to thread it through the pad, that spacer oval, the rest of the pad, and then into the other connector that requires a hammer. It seems to be a tight fit for now judge from the jostling around I've done. Also, I should have mentioned the time table on this project. Agora Models is a subscription type thing. As such, this all the parts I've been given so far. I'm paying for a 12 month subscription for it (there is a 24 month option as well with half the parts per month). Thus, I'm on month 4 of 12. Gonna be a lot more to add to those tracks assuming that is both the left and right side are being assembled in sync.
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Oct 18, 2021 06:41
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Has anyone had any issues putting Tamiya tape over Alclad chrome or their other metallic lacquers? I need to mask off an area that has Alclad on it but I'm afraid I'll mess it up with the tape since I don't think it's the most durable paint around.
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Oct 19, 2021 02:31
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put a protective clear coat layer on top of it before masking
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Oct 19, 2021 04:50
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Raskolnikov38 posted:put a protective clear coat layer on top of it before masking I was thinking this and I have Alclad Aqua Gloss to cover it with. My issue is the area that I have to mask off will also get a different type of Alclad lacquer over it so is it safe to put Alclad lacquer over Aqua Gloss?
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Oct 19, 2021 05:14
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The trick is to stick your tape on your shirt or something to reduce the tackiness before applying it to delicate surfaces.
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Oct 19, 2021 05:20
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I'll big up K-UTG tape again. Love this stuff, seals just as well or better than Tamiya, lower initial tack than Tamiya, and you get much longer rolls and wider sizes.Bloody Hedgehog posted:I've completely switched over from Tamiya tape to K-UTG Gold Tape, from FBS. Works just as well as Tamiya, and available up to 3" wide, and much longer than Tamiya rolls. Available at lots of online stores.
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Oct 19, 2021 05:51
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I just detack tamiya tape using the back of my thumb normally. Oddly I haven't had a problem with tamiya tape on zero paints stuff even when its kinda fresh. I have had it happen with tamiya spray cans the most even after a good detack.
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Oct 19, 2021 06:54
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So Vallejo liquid mask gets pretty gummy in the spout which makes it hard to dispense. So that causes me to just squeeze it harder. Which causes this to happen:  Oops. The cool thing is it's super easy to clean. Just give it like 15 minutes to solidify and then just roll it with your hand and it becomes a ball of sticky nastiness.
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Oct 19, 2021 07:00
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I've done that with a paint bottle. more than once.
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Oct 19, 2021 07:35
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Goddamnit Hasegawa ! I've gotten the panel lining on my VF-25F's wings as good as they;re going to get (not very) so I'm going for the wing decals. This will let me close up the fuselage and make some major strides in assembly. It's not just that the larger decals break, annoying as that is I have MicroSol and can get things lined up. It sucks that they do, but I can work around. No, it's crazy decal decisions that drive me mad. The trailing edge of the wing has 4 "No Step" warnings. On two decals - A very tiny "no step" on each end of an otherwise totally transparent, inch long, decal. For no reason. Just give us the loving markings Hasegawa. mllaneza fucked around with this message at 08:20 on Oct 19, 2021 |
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Oct 19, 2021 08:13
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Trim them down to just the markings?
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Oct 19, 2021 10:30
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Another small update on the RC213V. I'm getting closer to having a number of sub assemblies ready to go into the finished kit. The bit I'm happiest with is the chain becuase it is together and in one piece. I am aware that the stand off for the chain isn't centred but I'll double check it when it comes to assembly so that the screw goes thorough the rear swing arm.    
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Oct 19, 2021 11:02
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Lookin' good, man. Making me want to grab another bike kit.
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Oct 19, 2021 13:25
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that is some nice looking metal
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Oct 19, 2021 13:45
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mllaneza posted:Goddamnit Hasegawa ! The VF-1 decal sheet has you construct each one of the roundels with multiple layers. Someone in their design department is a lunatic or older than dirt. Just about done with this 1/72 Sherman. Everything beyond the base coats and tiny details were done with pigments, which was a neat change of pace. It needs a little something else, but I'm not quite sure what. Probably a couple more fine splatters around the front and back and a bit of dusting on the lower half.  
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Oct 19, 2021 15:47
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Any of y’all do model trains (or is there a thread)? Getting a under the Christmas tree setup going, and was thinking I might do a small layout after the holidays with the parts. I swear I’m not 60.
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Oct 19, 2021 17:14
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Jonny Nox posted:I've done that with a paint bottle. Go team. 
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Oct 19, 2021 23:03
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Gewehr 43 posted:Go team. I've spilled stupid amounts of terrible stuff in my model room, it's a wonder I'm not dead. Terrible stuff: lacquer thinner, acetone, alcohol, brass black, glue, wipe-on poly. Probably more that those fumes made me forget.
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Oct 19, 2021 23:08
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blugu64 posted:Any of y’all do model trains (or is there a thread)? Getting a under the Christmas tree setup going, and was thinking I might do a small layout after the holidays with the parts. Do you want to go big or small? Scale or tinplate (that's what our kind uses to refer to the more "toy" like ones)? How much are you looking to spend? I do scale modeling, but dropped a few hundred on Lionel last Christmas. Big enough for the cats to not attack.
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Oct 20, 2021 01:48
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Charliegrs posted:I was thinking this and I have Alclad Aqua Gloss to cover it with. My issue is the area that I have to mask off will also get a different type of Alclad lacquer over it so is it safe to put Alclad lacquer over Aqua Gloss? Not sure if aqua gloss is acrylic or laquer based, but you can airbrush lacquer over lacquer or acrylic if you do light coats.
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Oct 20, 2021 13:44
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Hello again thread, question for anyone who's had experience with lighted model kits. There's a spaceship that comes in both a clear and normal plastic kit, would you suggest drilling out the dozens of little windows of the opaque plastic or masking both sides of the clear? Neither sounds particularly thrilling, but I'm leaning towards the clear kit. Also, I know I need to black out the inside, but I've also seen comments online suggesting making the interior reflective too, or is that more for the pre-LED days? Any advice appreciated.
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Oct 20, 2021 14:08
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Sash! posted:Do you want to go big or small? Scale or tinplate (that's what our kind uses to refer to the more "toy" like ones)? How much are you looking to spend? N scale. Starting with a 4’ x 4’ boards around the tree, but kinda going from there. Went with Kato Unitrack and a basic set + expansion.
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Oct 20, 2021 14:46
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Lizard Combatant posted:Hello again thread, question for anyone who's had experience with lighted model kits. There's a spaceship that comes in both a clear and normal plastic kit, would you suggest drilling out the dozens of little windows of the opaque plastic or masking both sides of the clear? Neither sounds particularly thrilling, but I'm leaning towards the clear kit. Also, I know I need to black out the inside, but I've also seen comments online suggesting making the interior reflective too, or is that more for the pre-LED days? Any advice appreciated. as someone still working on a non-clear romulan warbird with like 400 holes to drill get the clear kit also paint the insides. I dont know how effective reflective paint is but my experiments in using polished foil as a leaf coating of the interior showed it doesn't work well with hole drilling.
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Oct 20, 2021 16:56
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I've never tried it, but would a clear kit allow you to easily angle the lights so that the interior is illuminated from the correct direction?
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Oct 20, 2021 17:35
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i just use toothpicks and hotglue to slightly elevate/angle the LEDs
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Oct 20, 2021 17:59
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blugu64 posted:N scale. Starting with a 4’ x 4’ boards around the tree, but kinda going from there. Went with Kato Unitrack and a basic set + expansion. I haven't really seen N scale running around a tree before. No reason you can't, of course, and it might actually have some advantages compared to other scales. For instance, you can have a double tracked line and there's no way you can do that with any other scale in that space. Are you doing one 4x4 square? If so, may I suggest using two 2x4 panels bolted together. That way, if you decide to expand in the near term, you can use the two panels as the ends of bigger loop or segments of more linear layout.
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Oct 20, 2021 21:59
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