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spectralent
Oct 1, 2014

Me and the boys poppin' down to the shops

IncredibleIgloo posted:

Thanks for the replies. I am going to buy a few bases and will give a trip report on them and how it goes, but the timeline between now and the pictures of them will be a while so don't get your hopes up, haha.

These bases, being so detailed, should I try to paint them separately and then add the infantry? Or would it be easy enough to do with the infantry attached? My worry is that the small gaps in the bases of the infantry and the holes in the bases would be hard to cover/putty/fill if I have already painted most of the base and the infantry themselves.

I bought from Kerr and King but I did paint separately and add infantry, using coloured filler to match the paint. A few were a little messy, but it really depends how steady your hand is.

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IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





I think maybe what I could do is utilize the Games Workshop base stuff I already have. In particular Stirland Mud and Astrogranite debris for the wood/rural themed bases and the urban bases, respectively. If you have never used that stuff before it is like a pre-mixed and colored basing goo. They have varying thickness to them as well, and they dry just fine. Kind of surprised I did not think of them already.

Major Isoor
Mar 23, 2011

IncredibleIgloo posted:

I think maybe what I could do is utilize the Games Workshop base stuff I already have.

Yeah, that's what I've been doing for my BA guys. Since once I finish painting them all, I'll paint the rim for each soldier in their squad's colour, to help pick them apart. I like having the tall GW bases for that reason, compared to the ultra-thin Warlord ones

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady

IncredibleIgloo posted:

I think maybe what I could do is utilize the Games Workshop base stuff I already have. In particular Stirland Mud and Astrogranite debris for the wood/rural themed bases and the urban bases, respectively. If you have never used that stuff before it is like a pre-mixed and colored basing goo. They have varying thickness to them as well, and they dry just fine. Kind of surprised I did not think of them already.
I fully base before painting, but you'll know yourself how much that'll drive you nuts.

Guest2553
Aug 3, 2012


Heavy weapons are generally easy enough to tell apart so I went the route of basing infantry units differently. I'm the idiot with 12 infantry platoons but it wasn't that bad using combinations of simple alternatives like summer vs spring static grass, black vs brown mud, etc. The stuff inside green tea bags is also really nice for forest bits, rooibos would give you a nice autumn feel. Stuff like that.

lenoon
Jan 7, 2010

lenoon posted:

It’s giant ECW day at my local club on Saturday and I have so many pike and shot bases to paint by then that I’ve taken the day off tomorrow to do it. Bets on how many get done ranging from “a loving battalion” to One guy please

After undercoating (and fully basing) thursday night, friday has seen the miracle of contrast paints:



Not at the highest quality, but enough to hit the table I think. This doubles the size of my painted 28mm pike and shotte stuff, and I think brings the army to a natural close with two large pike units each with two wings of shot, some commanded shot and a very small dragoon unit. Looking forward to forgetting all the rules tomorrow.



Edgar Allen Ho
Apr 3, 2017

by sebmojo
What do people recommend for realistic-proportion 28mm GPW soviets? Ideally in plastic. We can't get over the Warlord dudes looking like warhammer elves circa 1998.

Class Warcraft
Apr 27, 2006


Edgar Allen Ho posted:

What do people recommend for realistic-proportion 28mm GPW soviets? Ideally in plastic. We can't get over the Warlord dudes looking like warhammer elves circa 1998.

This is my go-to site for finding miniatures. It's really not more than a bunch of lists, but it's a good starting place.

For plastic Soviets, aside from Warlord there is also Plastic Soldier Company: https://www.theplasticsoldiercompany.co.uk/product-category/russian/world-war-ii-russian/28mm/

You used to be able to get Soviets from Wargames Factory but they're out of business now. There are still boxes floating around, but personally I'm not a fan of their minis - they're fairly stiff.

Honestly, the way to go in my opinion is to just invest in a 3D printer. There are some really great options for most of the major nations nowadays: https://wargaming3d.com/product-category/stls/156-28mm/ww2-156-28mm/soviet/

moths
Aug 25, 2004

I would also still appreciate some danger.



PSF has some very heroic proportions at 28, they're the result of upscaling the 15mm ones.

I'd look around for the WGF ones or talk to someone with a 3d printer. You might be able to use PSF with Warlord heads, too.

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

moths posted:

PSF has some very heroic proportions at 28, they're the result of upscaling the 15mm ones.
Interesting, I heard that with the scales reversed.

moths
Aug 25, 2004

I would also still appreciate some danger.



That might have been the case, too - my understanding is that they're CAD with oversized guns and heads designed for 15mm.

And they do look excellent in 15mm, just a bit offputting in 28. I've heard they didn't sell and that ended PSC's interest in 28mm, which seems to have borne out as true.

Major Isoor
Mar 23, 2011
Well, my xacto knife and green stuff arrived, so I think I did an OK enough job, for my first go with it. (I probably should've watched some videos on it first, but oh well - bit late now! :v: )




I think the sandbags ended up being a bit bigger than I expected, but ah well. It's a small tank, so that also helps then look bigger by comparison. I would've like to get a third one on the other side of the MMG port too, but there's definitely not enough space for that.
Eh, better than I was expecting either way - especially with a tip from a friend, to use a bandaid to create the sack-looking texture. I felt I should include straps for the backpack and pouches/bandolier too, so I used some spare GS to do that.

Also, I finally officially brought Patton/Pattini into the Alpini with a nice new, infuriatingly small, feather on his helmet! :D I used the back/blunt edge of the knife to hopefully create a bit of a feathery texture, but boy was actually getting the thing to stick to him was annoying. I need gloves coated in teflon, I think




Hopefully it all looks good once painted, but we'll see. But anyway, are there any good posts/resources you all recommend, for using green stuff? Since I'm wondering what else I can use it for, before I paint the last parts of my force - but obviously it'd be a good idea to figure out how to best use it, beforehand.

No Pun Intended
Jul 23, 2007

DWARVEN SEX OFFENDER

ASK ME ABOUT TONING MY FINE ASS DWARVEN BOOTY BY RUNNING FROM THE COPS OUTSIDE THAT ELF KINDERGARTEN

BEHOLD THE DONG OF THE DWARVES! THE DWARVEN DONG IS COMING!

Class Warcraft posted:

This is my go-to site for finding miniatures. It's really not more than a bunch of lists, but it's a good starting place.

For plastic Soviets, aside from Warlord there is also Plastic Soldier Company: https://www.theplasticsoldiercompany.co.uk/product-category/russian/world-war-ii-russian/28mm/

You used to be able to get Soviets from Wargames Factory but they're out of business now. There are still boxes floating around, but personally I'm not a fan of their minis - they're fairly stiff.

Honestly, the way to go in my opinion is to just invest in a 3D printer. There are some really great options for most of the major nations nowadays: https://wargaming3d.com/product-category/stls/156-28mm/ww2-156-28mm/soviet/

I just did invest in a 3D printer; and I didn't know wargames3d existed. This is going to end poorly / awesomely

Commissar Canuck
Aug 5, 2008

They made fun of us! And it's Stanley Cup season!

If anyone's looking for some Winter/Continuation War Finn and Soviet vehicle stl files, this kickstarter just started: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/nightskyminiatures/the-unknown-tanker/

I am a sucker for Finnish "gently caress it, put logs on it!" up-armoured Stugs

SERPUS
Mar 20, 2004
What is the normal basing convention for 15mm American Civil War? 3-4 minis on a 40mm square base?

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady
Does whoever was doing the Italian Halflings have a handy gallery of them?

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!

Arquinsiel posted:

Does whoever was doing the Italian Halflings have a handy gallery of them?

These?



If so, they're in a few blog posts if you scroll down here:

https://krigetkommer.weebly.com/renaissance-armies

lilljonas fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Oct 24, 2021

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady

lilljonas posted:

These?



If so, they're in a few blog posts if you scroll down here:

https://krigetkommer.weebly.com/renaissance-armies
That's them! Much obliged, a local nerd was asking about stuff.

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!

Arquinsiel posted:

That's them! Much obliged, a local nerd was asking about stuff.

No worries. I’ve made a bunch more since, but haven’t painted them. I’ll happily answer questions.

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady
They have your blog URL now so if they have any I'm sure they'll reach out. They're working on their own halflings right now.

moths
Aug 25, 2004

I would also still appreciate some danger.





The colors feel a little exaggerated but I think I can handle painting a company of these fuckers in this approximation of oak leaf.

:sigh:

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!
yeah at smaller scales you're just after the impression of a camo, not a real version of the camo, and that looks great IMHO.

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug
Looks good to me! I can't imagine painting camo on so many tiny dudes though.

moths
Aug 25, 2004

I would also still appreciate some danger.



Thanks guys!

I've made it through one stick of them, and something that actually helps is a makeup trick. I line the cuffs and rims with a tiny amount of ivory, and it contrasts the ink line and adds definition.

Of course, I started that after I took this photo, but I'll take another later.

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

I found a local player who is into napoleonics - but ... it's Shako 2 in 6mm. My first brush search and check on Shako 2 online involves writing paper orders down. How much of a grog game is this compared to say, DBN?

As an aside, what manufacturers should I be looking at for 6mm and 15mm nappies? Bacchus? Essex? Old Glory? 3D printing?

Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 23:03 on Oct 28, 2021

Class Warcraft
Apr 27, 2006


Wargaming3d.com has a bunch of 6mm 3D printable napoleonics

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
Depending on how much chrome you want on your models at that scale a while back I did a test of MDF models made by Commission Figurines. I think painted up they look pretty good, especially at table distance.


Both these armies combined was like twenty bucks.

lilljonas
May 6, 2007

We got crabs? We got crabs!

Southern Heel posted:

I found a local player who is into napoleonics - but ... it's Shako 2 in 6mm. My first brush search and check on Shako 2 online involves writing paper orders down. How much of a grog game is this compared to say, DBN?

As an aside, what manufacturers should I be looking at for 6mm and 15mm nappies? Bacchus? Essex? Old Glory? 3D printing?

For 6mm nappy the big traditional options are baccus (more realistic proportions but a bit stiff, especially cav) and Adler (more exaggerated proportions but more lively sculpts). The new kid on the block is Grumbler minis. I haven’t bought any but they look great on photos, but since they are new the range is smaller.

That said, warlord seems poised to release an ”epic black powder” range for naps next, so it might be woth seeing if that’ll look good or not.

lilljonas fucked around with this message at 07:02 on Oct 29, 2021

JcDent
May 13, 2013

Give me a rifle, one round, and point me at Berlin!
I have a question. A Force on Force question!



Everyone's regular in this scenario.

So I, the player with initiative, say that I'll move unit A and then shoot at the unit C.

Unit be reacts to my action by shooting. Does A automatically shoot back (or has the option to shoot back)?

If so, does A suffer -1d Firepower when it goes to fire on C?

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady
EDIT: over-simplified it.

Roll reaction tests for A vs B, resolve "Round of Fire", then roll test for A vs C. Winner of tests fires first. Technically B and C can't react until A comes into LoS so A vs B happens first when A enters LoS, then A vs C assuming that A isn't wiped out. A needs to declare how it reacts to B's reaction, and can just keep running if you want. If it fires back then it's in a Round of Fire and then the fire vs C is at -1D, but if it just runs on and wins the reaction then it fires at C and ignores B's reaction entirely. Worst case scenario is A gets shot up by B's fire for no reason.

Arquinsiel fucked around with this message at 13:47 on Oct 29, 2021

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

I think one deciding factor is that although I've got a nearby club I don't know if I'll ever get to actually play anyone in anger - it might just be something I solo wargame in the evening/etc - so while price isn't a driver I'm loathe to spend lots of money. Looking at Essex, I can put together a 12 element DBN 15mm peninsular british army for about £35, ending up with a few spares...

Springfield Fatts posted:

Depending on how much chrome you want on your models at that scale a while back I did a test of MDF models made by Commission Figurines. I think painted up they look pretty good, especially at table distance.

Both these armies combined was like twenty bucks.

..so that is exactly what I'm looking for !! Thank you! Since I painted my Bacchus Romans/Gauls (and somehow made a bunch of money when I sold them on eBay) my eyes have gone to pot - but them being affordable and decent enough from tabletop distance is just fine with me.

How did you pick which units to buy? I've spent an hour or so today investigating and comparing DBN lists vs Shako lists vs real orders of battle it all seems to line up fairly well (as would be expected!), but I am really getting my mind blown by trying to work out how many bases I should be going for per battalion, and whether I should be aiming for one of the 'standard' army sizes from Shako, Lasalle, DBN, etc. or a particular Order of Battle.

It seems that for a standard Shako Peninsular British army at 3 bases per battalion is over 100 bases. A real order of battle(British under Wellington at Talavera) is 132!

Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 17:06 on Oct 29, 2021

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
It's a huge personal thing for each Napoleonic gamer, I'm sure everyone will chime in with a suggested size. The ones I pictured are on 60x30mm bases for everything except 30x30s for the skirmishers & artillery. These were specifically for Blucher so they could lay over the unit cards but you could easily adapt them to other rules like DBN. As for model density I could of added another two ranks of infantry per stand but gently caress it, I had painted enough tiny red and blue men as it was. You can go insane down the button-counting hole of the period of history, it's sort of up to you how deep you go.

Springfield Fatts fucked around with this message at 21:28 on Oct 29, 2021

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

Apologies if this comes out a little scattered - I left this window open and came back to the reply a few times:

New info from the club: it seems that other than that one guy, the vast majority of the club play Napoleonics in 15mm - and none at all of 6mm or DBN. Ultimately then - do I want to plough a lonely furrow with solo wargaming in 6mm , or in light of that old adage 'the best wargame is the one that you can play' should I reevaluate 15mm?

On the face of it, it would seem that actually 15mm isn't a bad idea - I could happily start off with DBN in either scale where Essex 15mm and Bacchus 6mm are about the same price due to minimum pack sizes, although Comission are obviously cheaper. Depending on how that went, I could participate in larger corps-level games at the club if the mood struck me. The only thing is that I really don't know if I can justify the cost of (let alone actually paint) my own corps-level 15mm army - over £250 and almost four hundred line infantry. That seems just absolute madness! Am I missing something!?

As an aside, for 15mm and brits and french, is it worth just holding on for Black Powder Epic Battles?

Found this pic on /hwg/:


I have sperged for longer than I would like to confess (including a multi page spreadsheet) over this....

Springfield Fatts
May 24, 2010
Pillbug
The ones from Warlord Games won't be 15mm, they'll be 10mm (closer to 12mm) like Pendraken's stuff. They will be noticeably smaller in scale than your club's 15mm, but in reality basing is all that matters. Get a consensus on that from them and you can use whatever you want.

Arquinsiel
Jun 1, 2006

"There is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first."

God Bless Margaret Thatcher
God Bless England
RIP My Iron Lady
The way I see it your first decision is working out if you are going to play in the club.

Class Warcraft
Apr 27, 2006


Southern Heel posted:

Apologies if this comes out a little scattered - I left this window open and came back to the reply a few times:

New info from the club: it seems that other than that one guy, the vast majority of the club play Napoleonics in 15mm - and none at all of 6mm or DBN. Ultimately then - do I want to plough a lonely furrow with solo wargaming in 6mm , or in light of that old adage 'the best wargame is the one that you can play' should I reevaluate 15mm?

On the face of it, it would seem that actually 15mm isn't a bad idea - I could happily start off with DBN in either scale where Essex 15mm and Bacchus 6mm are about the same price due to minimum pack sizes, although Comission are obviously cheaper. Depending on how that went, I could participate in larger corps-level games at the club if the mood struck me. The only thing is that I really don't know if I can justify the cost of (let alone actually paint) my own corps-level 15mm army - over £250 and almost four hundred line infantry. That seems just absolute madness! Am I missing something!?

As an aside, for 15mm and brits and french, is it worth just holding on for Black Powder Epic Battles?

Found this pic on /hwg/:


I have sperged for longer than I would like to confess (including a multi page spreadsheet) over this....

Warlord teased Napoleonic Epic might be announced in December.

Edgar Allen Ho
Apr 3, 2017

by sebmojo

moths posted:



The colors feel a little exaggerated but I think I can handle painting a company of these fuckers in this approximation of oak leaf.

:sigh:

At 15mm and smaller, exaggerated colours in close ups usually means they look good on tabletop instead of being beigey green blobs.

Cessna
Feb 20, 2013

KHABAHBLOOOM

moths posted:



The colors feel a little exaggerated but I think I can handle painting a company of these fuckers in this approximation of oak leaf.

:sigh:

Not exaggerated at all, the real items were bright. This is an original:

JcDent
May 13, 2013

Give me a rifle, one round, and point me at Berlin!

Arquinsiel posted:

EDIT: over-simplified it.

Roll reaction tests for A vs B, resolve "Round of Fire", then roll test for A vs C. Winner of tests fires first. Technically B and C can't react until A comes into LoS so A vs B happens first when A enters LoS, then A vs C assuming that A isn't wiped out. A needs to declare how it reacts to B's reaction, and can just keep running if you want. If it fires back then it's in a Round of Fire and then the fire vs C is at -1D, but if it just runs on and wins the reaction then it fires at C and ignores B's reaction entirely. Worst case scenario is A gets shot up by B's fire for no reason.

Thanks. The rulebook ha some layout issues, and trying to get the hang of reactions is ooof.

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moths
Aug 25, 2004

I would also still appreciate some danger.



Cessna posted:

Not exaggerated at all, the real items were bright. This is an original:



Oh dang, that's perfect then!

I've experimented with some different greens an and washes, and there's definitely a better cumulative effect to seeing them all together than seeing any individual figure.

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