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EngineerJoe posted:I have a 2005 Acura RSX Type S (I am the original owner) and the Canadian winters have done a number on the exhaust system. I have to change just about everything from the headers to the cat. My garage said it would probably be cheaper to go to a exhaust specialist like Mufflerman... is this generally cool and good? I really just want to keep the OEM characteristics of the car. It's completely stock and is probably one of the only Type S's left in this condition. Update: Brought it to the muffler specialists and they fabricated and replaced that donut thing for $100. They said everything else is fine. Happy days.
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Oct 16, 2021 17:15
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opengl128 posted:Pilot Sport 4S. Cheaper option- Firestone Indy 500.
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Oct 16, 2021 18:37
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What's the AI goon hive mind preference for performance replacement clutches? Exedy, ACT, Center force? The Mazda needs a new one that can hold ~350ft/lbs. Bearings are all making noise and it's slipping above 6k rpm.
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Oct 16, 2021 18:45
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McTinkerson posted:What's the AI goon hive mind preference for performance replacement clutches? Exedy, ACT, Center force? Exedy, ACT will be just fine. Make sure you're getting authentic ones though because there are a lot of fakes.
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Oct 16, 2021 19:01
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I've used both ACT and Exedy with success.
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Oct 16, 2021 19:26
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On second look, I wasn't repairing my rusty fuel return lines on my truck. The return lines are in good condition and I was repairing a third set of pipes. What system did I just repair then? There's a float valve that fits into a bung on top of both tanks. Both are connected together and they run via this third set of steel lines all the way up to the engine compartment where they run into a plastic box.
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Oct 16, 2021 21:41
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kid sinister posted:On second look, I wasn't repairing my rusty fuel return lines on my truck. The return lines are in good condition and I was repairing a third set of pipes. What system did I just repair then? There's a float valve that fits into a bung on top of both tanks. Both are connected together and they run via this third set of steel lines all the way up to the engine compartment where they run into a plastic box. EGR or something emissions related maybe.
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Oct 16, 2021 21:54
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Not EGR, but yes probably the evaporative vapor recovery system. The plastic box is likely the charcoal canister or something like that. If that plastic box is also plumbed into the engine intake system, that's definitely what it is.
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Oct 16, 2021 21:58
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Sagebrush posted:Not EGR, but yes probably the evaporative vapor recovery system. The plastic box is likely the charcoal canister or something like that. If that plastic box is also plumbed into the engine intake system, that's definitely what it is. We have a winner! Wikipedia calls it the ORVR system. Apparently it's to help prevent emissions during refueling.
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Oct 16, 2021 23:30
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It's to prevent gasoline vapors from escaping from the tank, yeah. In the past, gas tanks were just vented to atmosphere through a little hole. This was a simple way of solving a lot of engineering problems, like the issue of fuel expanding and contracting with temperature, or a vacuum being formed in the tank as the fuel was drawn out. Obviously it also let some gas fumes out into the air, though. The evaporative vapor recovery system uses a little air pump to sucks all the gas fumes from the (now sealed) gas tank into a charcoal canister, which absorbs them. Under certain engine condition (wide open throttle, heavy acceleration) the canister is emptied by opening a valve from it into the intake tract, sucking clean air in to flush out the gas fumes, and piping them the engine where they are burned. It is a kind of ridiculously complicated system to avoid a few milliliters of gasoline per tank getting into the air, but I guess they add up.
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Oct 17, 2021 00:06
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Yeah, it absolutely adds up, because the tank breathes out gas vapors every day with the temp swings, even when the car isn't being driven. I like evap systems. It's a decent reduction in raw gas vapor emissions, and the system doesn't seem to have a ton of drawbacks other than some complexity and cost. It's not making GBS threads carbon into your intake. It's not going to fail in a way that leaves you stranded and requires a tow. It's not going to be stolen by tweakers with a sawzall. Evap systems don't seem to be big troublemakers wrt to maintenance an reliability, at least in my experience.
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Oct 17, 2021 02:59
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Is there an October chat thread y'all?
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Oct 17, 2021 03:55
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Sagebrush posted:It's to prevent gasoline vapors from escaping from the tank, yeah. I think the bigger gain from that is that the tank won't leak in a roll over accident.
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Oct 17, 2021 07:02
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Inner Light posted:Is there an October chat thread y'all? https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3980770 This looks like it
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Oct 17, 2021 09:04
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opengl128 posted:Pilot Sport 4S. Cheaper option- Firestone Indy 500. Thanks, I had looked at the PS4 but a lot of threads from 2-3 years ago weren't too hot on them. It seems like more recent opinions on the PS4S are great though.
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Oct 17, 2021 13:35
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I'm trying to test some fuses on a 2009 Toyota Venza before taking it in to be serviced (rear door release button doesn't work). The fuse diagram says the fuse is in a row with a few others, but in reality there isn't a row of fuses. Instead there is one long insert that doesn't come up when you pull it. What the heck am I supposed to do with this thing?
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Oct 17, 2021 21:23
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Manager Hoyden posted:I'm trying to test some fuses on a 2009 Toyota Venza before taking it in to be serviced (rear door release button doesn't work). A picture of what you are looking at would go a long way here.
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Oct 17, 2021 21:29
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opengl128 posted:A picture of what you are looking at would go a long way here. This isn't mine but it's those long light orange ones in the middle. 
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Oct 17, 2021 21:49
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Those are fusible link blocks. May be a dealer only part. e: this is for a Camry but should be similar. Looks like you need to disassemble the fuse block partially. https://sparkys-answers.com/2011/09/2009-toyota-camry-changing-multi-fuse.html opengl fucked around with this message at 22:27 on Oct 17, 2021 |
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Oct 17, 2021 22:23
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That's a big fuckin' fuse for a rear door release. I don't think that's the right one.
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Oct 18, 2021 00:33
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2009 Buick Allure (Lacrosse) Despite my complaining, the replacement of the fuel lines is going well and nearly done; I just have to attach the nylon lines coming out of the gas tank. And here I discovered something weird. So, GM fuel lines are 3/8 size. But one of the hoses coming out of the tank (the return fuel line, not the sender) I was having a bitch of a time getting any 3/8 connectors to go on. As it happens, one of the brass bits I bought was a set of three nylon to steel compression fittings in three different sizes: 3/8, 5/16, and 1/4. Just out of curiosity, I tried the 5/16 fitting on the stubborn line, and suprise! It fit. So did I screw something up here? Because it seems like it is important that one line sending stuff out and another line returning it be the same size, and not have a size reduction Also, when screwing together fuel fittings, should you Teflon tape together those sons of bitches
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Oct 18, 2021 12:59
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Nebakenezzer posted:2009 Buick Allure (Lacrosse) Different sized lines is normal. Shouldn't need teflon...gas will probably just eat it anyways.
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Oct 18, 2021 13:35
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C-Bangin' it 
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ryanrs posted:That's a big fuckin' fuse for a rear door release. I don't think that's the right one. It's not one big fuse, it's several smaller fuses all built into one strip for...reasons? 
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Oct 18, 2021 13:55
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Anyone have any experience with MkIV (2000) Golf (other models probably the same) door locks? My FOB won't open the drivers door, I hear the motors click but doesn't push it enough to open it. I have not taken it apart yet because that seems pretty involved. My plan is to just throw a new door lock mechanism at it which seems to be about $70+. I couldn't find a straight answer through Google and I'm tired of manually locking and unlocking the door.
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Oct 18, 2021 14:39
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unbuttonedclone posted:Anyone have any experience with MkIV (2000) Golf (other models probably the same) door locks? My FOB won't open the drivers door, I hear the motors click but doesn't push it enough to open it. I have not taken it apart yet because that seems pretty involved. My plan is to just throw a new door lock mechanism at it which seems to be about $70+. I couldn't find a straight answer through Google and I'm tired of manually locking and unlocking the door. I had a 2002 until the timing belt jumped and killed the engine. The door locks have little microswitches in them that go bad and cause this issue. You can replace them but it's easier to throw an entire lock mechanism in there. Depends on your budget and time.
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Oct 18, 2021 15:57
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STR posted:They're dead simple on the Matrix - right up on top, don't have to remove anything else. Really, pretty much everything under the hood, at least on a first gen, is easy to get to (unless you want to re-seal the timing cover; that's gonna be a pain in the rear end on any FWD car). I'd assume the earlier 2nd gens with the 1.8 are similarly easy to work on. I've done the valve cover gasket and intake manifold gasket on ours, along with plugs, lower control arms, brakes... it's just an easy car to work on. The intake manifold gasket in particular surprised me, it was a handful of nuts and bolts (left the TB on it so I wouldn't have to remove the coolant lines from it). Took less than an hour. Oooookkay. So I got the new coils in (don’t have the right socket for plugs, will have to rectify that tomorrow night), misfire is fixed, no more code. So tell me about the intake manifold gasket. I’m getting a pulsing rough idle on a cold engine that goes away after it warms up, but there’s this sound. It’s a persistent tick-tick-tick that is quieter in park, louder in drive, at a stop. With the hood up and engine cover off, it becomes a chff-chff-chff, from somewhere right around the intake manifold. So vacuum leak of some kind, right? Location sounds like manifold. I tried a couple tiny puffs of ether around it but was too nervous to really fog it. I have some videos with good sound, I’ll see if I can upload them. Park: https://i.imgur.com/4SNA8AU.mp4 Drive: https://i.imgur.com/EmJei3S.mp4 HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Oct 19, 2021 |
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Oct 19, 2021 03:34
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Because it's the intake mani and that car is normally aspirated you can always mist a little wd40 around where you think the leak is. If it affects the idle, you have a leak. Best to do this with the engine not hot.
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Oct 19, 2021 04:26
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I should take this out, right? It's not leaking and I don't know how long its been in there.
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Oct 19, 2021 19:27
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It will start leaking eventually, inevitably leaving you with a flat tire in an inconvenient location. Fix it while it's not causing you a problem.
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Oct 19, 2021 19:29
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FogHelmut posted:I should take this out, right? It's not leaking and I don't know how long its been in there. Don't take it out yourself, go to a tire shop and they'll remove it and patch it for less than 50 bucks.
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Oct 19, 2021 19:38
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FogHelmut, aren't you an off-roader? You should really keep a plug kit in your truck, and this is a perfect chance to learn how to use it. Maybe buy the kit before taking that out, though.
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Oct 19, 2021 19:57
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I believe Discount Tire/America's Tire will even patch it for free. It barely costs them anything and it's certainly a good way to attract new customers.
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Oct 19, 2021 20:07
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Krakkles posted:FogHelmut, aren't you an off-roader? You should really keep a plug kit in your truck, and this is a perfect chance to learn how to use it. Oh yeah I have a plug kit in my truck, and I've plugged tires before. This is my wife's car. I don't know if it even made it past the tread and all the way in. It looks pretty old. She's only about 5-10k away from new tires anyway. I had a plug in a tire for over 30k miles before with no issues.
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Oct 19, 2021 22:36
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Are there worthwhile aftermarket security systems/car alarms? For a Mazda3 2019, if that matters. Or are most of them not really doing much beyond what already came w the car?
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Oct 20, 2021 00:00
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tildes posted:Are there worthwhile aftermarket security systems/car alarms? For a Mazda3 2019, if that matters. Or are most of them not really doing much beyond what already came w the car? What do you want beyond the one that came with the car, and why do you think you need it? Aftermarket alarms are often a source of electrical headaches for years to come. It's a significant risk that needs a substantial counterbalance.
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Oct 20, 2021 00:03
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Are AM builds still dead? I've never properly run an AM/MoM/Agnostic build but AM got gutted 
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Oct 20, 2021 00:04
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totalnewbie posted:Are AM builds still dead? I've never properly run an AM/MoM/Agnostic build but AM got gutted 
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Oct 20, 2021 00:29
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totalnewbie posted:Are AM builds still dead? I've never properly run an AM/MoM/Agnostic build but AM got gutted hell yeah PoE thread in AI
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Oct 20, 2021 00:37
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totalnewbie posted:Are AM builds still dead? I've never properly run an AM/MoM/Agnostic build but AM got gutted yeah, RIP Aston Martin. Ford took all the good stuff, and to be honest outside of the James Bond connection there really wasn’t all that much good stuff vs the competition
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Oct 20, 2021 01:21
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There's actually still one American Motors dealership but I don't know what they sell. Old gremlins?
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Oct 20, 2021 01:24
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