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NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

The Eyes Have It posted:

There used to be until everyone went blind

Username/post combo

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Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

The Eyes Have It posted:

There used to be until everyone went blind

:pressf:

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

The Eyes Have It posted:

There used to be until everyone went blind

:drat:

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes
I was actually wondering the same thing since I just ordered a Silhouette digital cutter (not a laser cutter but similar). Maybe we should start a thread for it.

Chernabog
Apr 16, 2007



I use my 3D printer mostly to make gears so I figured it might be faster with a laser cutter. They seem way too expensive anyway.

insta
Jan 28, 2009

Bucnasti posted:

I was actually wondering the same thing since I just ordered a Silhouette digital cutter (not a laser cutter but similar). Maybe we should start a thread for it.

There's a kiddo on the Voron Discord who has permanent blindness in his right eye from a 1.5W laser pointer and a split-second of stupidity.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


The Eyes Have It posted:

There used to be until everyone went blind

NewFatMike posted:

Username/post combo

The Eyes Had It

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Yeah the downside to most lasers is that you're either building an enclosure or shelling out for one with an enclosure and that's *mandatory* if you have pets or live with other people.

You frequently want fume extraction or air assist, too, which makes things even harder.

The upside, though, is that you can get really precise completely solid parts, but you may be able to accomplish similar with 3D printing.

I personally think laser cutting is the better technology, but for a hobbyist or homelab it gets rather impractical in a hurry.

I might recommend a larger inexpensive CNC router like this one over laser engraving simply because the buildout isn't as intense. Workholding is an art, but there are easy solutions like painter's tape and super glue.

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

CNC routers are noisy and generate a lot of dust and are probably more impractical for 'home use' than lasers.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

That's also fair, I might have developed a deafness to anything but the bad sounds that come from them :v:

Chernabog
Apr 16, 2007



A CNC router would be great but unfortunately I don't have a workshop.

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

Chernabog posted:

A CNC router would be great but unfortunately I don't have a workshop.

You pretty much need a workshop for CNC routers or lasers.

You can kinda get away without a workshop with hobby 3d printers but that's only for FDM style machines. Resin machines really need a workshop-type space.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes
I'm getting a Silhouette, it's a digital blade cutter for paper, vinyl and other thin materials. It's used a lot by scrapbookers, and by people making Live Laugh Love signs for their tastefully decorated suburban home, but I'm looking to doing nerd poo poo with it (stencils, decals and custom T-shirts). No lasers are involved, I'd have to do something phenomenally stupid to blind myself with the tiny razor cutter it uses.

Chernabog
Apr 16, 2007



Yeah, I have my ender 3 at my home office room and that's about as far as I'd go.

Chainclaw
Feb 14, 2009

We've got a laser cutter and love it. Projects feel real professional coming out of it, but there's usually more post-processing than with 3D printing. It's also a lot harder to search for SVGs for it than it is to find STLs for 3D printers.

mystes
May 31, 2006

My filament still hasn't arrived and I'm not sure if what came with the printer is enough for my toothbrush holder so I've had to content myself with printing a couple of these clips for ethernet cables with broken clips but 3d printing is definitely very cool.

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Can you cut cloth with a laser cutter or will it just burn?

ImplicitAssembler
Jan 24, 2013

Doctor Zero posted:

Can you cut cloth with a laser cutter or will it just burn?

Both.

NewFatMike
Jun 11, 2015

Bucnasti posted:

I'm getting a Silhouette, it's a digital blade cutter for paper, vinyl and other thin materials. It's used a lot by scrapbookers, and by people making Live Laugh Love signs for their tastefully decorated suburban home, but I'm looking to doing nerd poo poo with it (stencils, decals and custom T-shirts). No lasers are involved, I'd have to do something phenomenally stupid to blind myself with the tiny razor cutter it uses.

I did get a Silhouette Pro 4 earlier in the year for stencil work and ended up returning it. 1/16" error per vector foot, got the exact same error on a 20" x 20" box. By the time it got to the last leg on the box it was nearly a full inch off in the same way every time.

Engineers said it was a software issue, so double check that they fixed that because frankly I can't figure out how you can make that much error without trying.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

mystes posted:

My filament still hasn't arrived and I'm not sure if what came with the printer is enough for my toothbrush holder so I've had to content myself with printing a couple of these clips for ethernet cables with broken clips but 3d printing is definitely very cool.

The (undoubtedly) PLA that your printer came with is fine for anything that doesn't need to carry a lot of load or get hot. It is totally appropriate for a toothbrush holder.

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
There might not be enough OF IT for that object, though

mystes
May 31, 2006

Javid posted:

There might not be enough OF IT for that object, though
Yeah that's what I meant :). I guess I could figure out how much there is and see if it's enough based on what prusaslicer says but it's also not the color I want anyway so I might as well wait another day for fedex to hopefully get its poo poo together and deliver the filament. Also there's probably something to be said for testing the printer using an existing design first so I know the problem is with my design if it doesn't work.

Wanderless
Apr 30, 2009

w00tmonger posted:

Maybe this is better for the printing in tabletop thread, but what would you guys use for a filament that's going to be used for a wet pallette?

Bought these paint trays that will have a wet sponge sitting in it 24/7 as well as being exposed to acrylic paint, thinners, various chemicals, inks and other bullshit. The kickstarter printed them in PLA then sealed with varnish, but it would be great if I could do it in 1 pass of PETG or whatever. Selling these so minimizing cost/work to make them would be ideal.

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/corvusgamesterrain/paintpal-a-travel-hobby-system/description

PETG or maybe ABS. Both should hold up okay to acrylics and both survive washing in the dishwasher top rack, which isn't the case for PLA. Using ABS you could also do a bit of acetone polishing to really get it sealed BUT if you're using paints/varnishes that are thinned with acetone, ABS is obviously not going to work.

I'd probably use more top layers than for generic prints. Turning on ironing might give you a nicer finished surface for palette surfaces you want smooth.

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
I guess I finally joined the secret ender 3 club where I have disassembled my printer almost complete and rebuilt it. Once for redoing my initial install squaring and once most recently because of catastrophic filament build up in the hotend

Ordered some new Capricorn tubing for just the hotend, but I need to print some spacers to do the proper mod, so everything is put back together but reprinting this bullseye shroud is pissing me off, failing at the last 2 min if a 3 hour print on the little ears breaking off

My level is spot on, and my zlevel is great, but it seems like my filament is getting a bit too stiff on retraction and casing the nozzle movement to break the parts. It's pla @215 because the manufacturer recommended 210 and it's getting colder in my basement

A touch hotter? Go slower on the small bits? Both? The nozzle is brand new, and the only real difference now is that my silicone sock is off until a new one comes, and my fan shroud is broken on one mounting side, but its still at the right height

Roundboy fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Oct 21, 2021

Commodore_64
Feb 16, 2011

love thy likpa




Not going to lie, I nearly impulse bought that phrozen 8k. I’ve never had a resin printer before, but I haven’t really a specific need right now and plenty of other projects.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes
My longer LK1 arrived today, haven't taken it out of the box yet, Is there anything I should get right away to upgrade it?

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:

Roundboy posted:

I guess I finally joined the secret ender 3 club where I have disassembled my printer almost complete and rebuilt it. Once for redoing my initial install squaring and once most recently because of catastrophic filament build up in the hotend

Ordered some new Capricorn tubing for just the hotend, but I need to print some spacers to do the proper mod, so everything is put back together but reprinting this bullseye shroud is pissing me off, failing at the last 2 min if a 3 hour print on the little ears breaking off

My level is spot on, and my zlevel is great, but it seems like my filament is getting a bit too stiff on retraction and casing the nozzle movement to break the parts. It's pla @215 because the manufacturer recommended 210 and it's getting colder in my basement

A touch hotter? Go slower on the small bits? Both? The nozzle is brand new, and the only real difference now is that my silicone sock is off until a new one comes, and my fan shroud is broken on one mounting side, but its still at the right height

post a picture of the failure(s) and we can give more useful feedback, but 215 is pretty spicy for PLA already; if it's so cold in your basement that you have to overcompensate that hard, an enclosure might be warranted

snail
Sep 25, 2008

CHEESE!

Roundboy posted:

My level is spot on, and my zlevel is great, but it seems like my filament is getting a bit too stiff on retraction and casing the nozzle movement to break the parts. It's pla @215 because the manufacturer recommended 210 and it's getting colder in my basement

A touch hotter? Go slower on the small bits? Both? The nozzle is brand new, and the only real difference now is that my silicone sock is off until a new one comes, and my fan shroud is broken on one mounting side, but its still at the right height

My gut feel is the opposite. Colder, and that you did the Capricorn tube, have you checked your extrusion accuracy?

I had a beautifully coloured, but awful to print PLA recently that had filled a rubbish bin with failed prints, until I dropped the temp to 190, and lowered the extrusion another 5% despite my extrusion being accurate and printing other filaments flawlessly. This filament should be rebranded as butter.

Aurarum is forever on my do-not-buy list.

Stupid_Sexy_Flander
Mar 14, 2007

Is a man not entitled to the haw of his maw?
Grimey Drawer
Just got my shipment notice for the 8k.

Christ I gotta clean up a space to put that giant fucker.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
My Longer 3D Printer has arrived. This will be interesting.

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
This is what I came to see after 8 hours
http://imgur.com/a/rKLxtkD

Which was an almost completely clogged nozzle, my heat sick melting and just a mess all over

http://imgur.com/a/wvbBtDa

Interesting on the pla temp, as the spool of this particular silk pla wants 210. In fact, my first print of this failed because I accidentally left a temp tower script enabled in slicing, and every so often it was dropping the temp 5 degrees, and I finally caught it printing at 170 and the layers stuck to each other, but barely

I guess I can try the usual calibration stuff at lower temps to see what is up, but I only mention the cold basement in the case of drafts as I walk past. The new tubing should be here today, I was just attempting to print some needed parts before that with a fixed existing tube and no sock

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

Roundboy posted:

This is what I came to see after 8 hours
http://imgur.com/a/rKLxtkD

Which was an almost completely clogged nozzle, my heat sick melting and just a mess all over

http://imgur.com/a/wvbBtDa

Interesting on the pla temp, as the spool of this particular silk pla wants 210. In fact, my first print of this failed because I accidentally left a temp tower script enabled in slicing, and every so often it was dropping the temp 5 degrees, and I finally caught it printing at 170 and the layers stuck to each other, but barely

I guess I can try the usual calibration stuff at lower temps to see what is up, but I only mention the cold basement in the case of drafts as I walk past. The new tubing should be here today, I was just attempting to print some needed parts before that with a fixed existing tube and no sock



The gently caress is going on with those excessively long screws that bypass the heat break and appear to make contact with the heatsink?

Seems like a prime opportunity to flood the heatsink with heat faster than the fan can cool it and turn your entire hotend assembly into an overheated mess.

EDIT: It looks like that hotend was designed that way on purpose? What the actual gently caress?

Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 14:27 on Oct 21, 2021

insta
Jan 28, 2009
That's what Creality hotends do. Any upgrade doesn't have those, of course.

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
have you had any success with that filament before? is the basement damp or dusty?

by "this spool wants 210" do you mean it says that, or you did testing and that worked best? I'm not gonna say 210 is never correct for PLA but I only get my nozzle that hot when I'm trying a cold pull or to otherwise hamfist out a clog

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008
It seems very popular with the ender series, and the stock fan setup does seem to keep up with stuff even with me hacking away at it. I'm sure I'll be getting a new hotend at some point, but waiting at least a month before I go all 3d printer of Theseus

Edit: that is what the spool says. I always thought there was some special reason they wanted that temp but reading it closer they say 210 +/- 15 which just seems like a crazy huge range. Or a whatever temp you want to use is fine

Trying a cube of it at 200 but it's generally printed fine 200-215. Never had to dial in any pla prints, I just spent the time working on petg temp settings for stringing. Pla was just working until what seems to be separation between the Bowden tube and my nozzle


This was one of my first prints before everything was really dialed in, it was functional but had some issues, and i broke it overtightening :
https://i.imgur.com/k3kNTTT.jpg

My first reprint failed at the ears by snapping them off. I was assuming filament or the nozzle was sticking to it and t snapped it during travel. I ended up slowing it down to 75% on the printer itself and it seemed to be fine
https://i.imgur.com/t4cFySv.jpg

still some little minor things i want to clean up, but i have everything hacked together at the moment waiting on new parts

Roundboy fucked around with this message at 14:45 on Oct 21, 2021

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Both my Prusas print PLA at 210-215 with the default PLA profiles, so I don't know :v:

Dr. Despair
Nov 4, 2009


39 perfect posts with each roll.

I also think a lot of filaments have a wide range because why would you trust the tolerances on cheap Enders and ender knockoffs to be trustworthy.

Hamburlgar
Dec 31, 2007

WANTED
Lol, yeah, that’s exactly why :allears:

Mr. Mercury
Aug 13, 2021



biracial bear for uncut posted:



The gently caress is going on with those excessively long screws that bypass the heat break and appear to make contact with the heatsink?

Seems like a prime opportunity to flood the heatsink with heat faster than the fan can cool it and turn your entire hotend assembly into an overheated mess.

EDIT: It looks like that hotend was designed that way on purpose? What the actual gently caress?

I junked my hotend for a microswiss one for the ender 3v2. It's just a loving mess of bad design and worse manufacturing

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Paradoxish
Dec 19, 2003

Will you stop going crazy in there?

Commodore_64 posted:

Not going to lie, I nearly impulse bought that phrozen 8k. I’ve never had a resin printer before, but I haven’t really a specific need right now and plenty of other projects.

I nearly stopped myself when I realized the shipping annihilated nearly all of the early bird savings but then I did it anyway because I have problems

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