|
fins posted:These guys are awesome If you want some good long form machinist nerd poo poo, here are two about making and messing with indicating square with a stand and test indicator https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aFBZFComFQc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4F-bUiyFmWc
|
#
?
Oct 15, 2021 19:15
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 11, 2024 19:53 |
|
|
Yeah, Ox Tools and Stefan Gotteswinthgblrlr are great youtube channels for precision machining stuff, and I've been re-watching their videos now that I'm back at school. Especially the squareness ones, as the machines I'm using have seen some abuse by other students and can't be trusted to cut properly. Ugh, so many holes and scratches everywhere... [edit] Though I'm also to blame. Was making a metric 1-2-3 block, and while I was grinding the last face, it got loose on the magnetic table, and whoops now it's jammed between the table and the grinding wheel.  (No damage to the wheel/machine thankfully) Later I was drilling the holes on it, and whoops-part-2 the drill jammed and snapped. At that point I gave up on that little project 
JointHorse fucked around with this message at 08:24 on Oct 16, 2021 |
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2021 08:13
|
|
|
JointHorse posted:Yeah, Ox Tools and Stefan Gotteswinthgblrlr are great youtube channels for precision machining stuff, and I've been re-watching their videos now that I'm back at school. Especially the squareness ones, as the machines I'm using have seen some abuse by other students and can't be trusted to cut properly. Ugh, so many holes and scratches everywhere... Hmm drilling after grinding?
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2021 18:14
|
|
|
Samuel L. Hacksaw posted:Hmm drilling after grinding? Most people are too tired after drilling to go back to grinding, but to each their own.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2021 18:26
|
|
|
*in an extremely Hank Hill voice* eh heh heh, You're not using hand tools to make a 1-2-3 block are ya?
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2021 18:36
|
|
|
i'll probably never get around to it, but i've always wanted to hand-scrape a surface plate using the OG three-plate comparative method. it's a couple solid days of my life i'd never get back, but going back to The Very Literal First Step of precision toolmaking, the first real empirical move towards *realized perfection* in historical engineering, is an intoxicating idea just get completely lost in the sauce, spend a week of my life hand-scraping a plate flatter than i could ever quantify without access to some very specialized metrology
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2021 00:13
|
|
|
Ambrose Burnside posted:just get completely lost in the sauce, spend a week of my life hand-scraping a plate flatter than i could ever quantify without access to some very specialized metrology I once spent a night in a drunken haze flattening a 30"x30" wood glue-up with a hand plane, alternating with video games when I needed a break. I woke up the next morning with a pretty flat workpiece and 2 large blisters on my hands from the plane. My memories kind of stopped around 3 am but I don't remember going to bed. So yeah getting blasted and flattening things is a great time. Highly recommend.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2021 05:30
|
|
|
Looks like I'm now stuck in a bureaucracy loop. Department X thinks that Department Y needs to sign off on the project, Department Y won't sign off without a formal application, department X can't make the application without department Z, who need department Y to first approve it. 2 months in to a "2 day" process! And storage fees start in 3 days from now. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2021 17:38
|
|
|
fins posted:Looks like I'm now stuck in a bureaucracy loop. Department X thinks that Department Y needs to sign off on the project, Department Y won't sign off without a formal application, department X can't make the application without department Z, who need department Y to first approve it. 2 months in to a "2 day" process! And storage fees start in 3 days from now. Sounds like that's above your pay grade. Kick it to your boss to deal with and go have a beer.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2021 18:50
|
|
|
Samuel L. Hacksaw posted:Ti and Nickel and Cobalt are pigs. Don't use them if you don't have to. What's the deal with nickel?
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2021 03:19
|
|
|
stranger danger posted:What's the deal with nickel? High nickel alloys are a nightmare to machine. Inconel, Hastelloy, Invar, Waspaloy, and the like (Renè, Monel, Nimonic) are all a giant pain. Extreme work hardening, and they often retain massive strength right up to their melting points.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2021 09:23
|
|
|
Samuel L. Hacksaw posted:Sounds like that's above your pay grade. Kick it to your boss to deal with and go have a beer. I'm self employed, and the departments in question are government departments. I did go for a beer.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2021 13:52
|
|
|
fins posted:I'm self employed, and the departments in question are government departments. I did go for a beer. If it's a gov contract for hardware and you're in the US you could try leveraging DPAS. Otherwise if you need a permit, try a bribe! Invoke DPAS and tell your contact manager that you won't pay or be held liable for any fees or penalties since the government is causing the delay.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2021 14:14
|
|
|
Samuel L. Hacksaw posted:If it's a gov contract for hardware and you're in the US you could try leveraging DPAS. Otherwise if you need a permit, try a bribe! Not in the US, and the previous head honcho in Dept Y got shitcanned for taking a bribe. Doubt his replacement would be in any way interested, given the fat pension he stands to collect if he doesn't gently caress up before retiring in a couple years. Spent the morning reading through a 100+ page law, trying to figure out what the next step is, and I think I've done the equivalent of self diagnosing with google. I've convinced myself that either a) I'm in breach of a pile of regulations and am facing hundreds of thousands in fines and/or years of jailtime, or b) they have no authority at all for handwavy reasons. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2021 14:47
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:High nickel alloys are a nightmare to machine. Inconel, Hastelloy, Invar, Waspaloy, and the like (Renè, Monel, Nimonic) are all a giant pain. Extreme work hardening, and they often retain massive strength right up to their melting points. I did some work in grad school with rene41, but the creep at the operating temp was too high. I managed to track down some end cuts of inconel720 which I've still never seen since. We machined some of the parts in house. Running a reamer through 5" of the stuff is terrifying. We still had some creep running around 760C, so it was constantly in the mill getting touched up.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2021 14:55
|
|
|
fins posted:Not in the US, and the previous head honcho in Dept Y got shitcanned for taking a bribe. Doubt his replacement would be in any way interested, given the fat pension he stands to collect if he doesn't gently caress up before retiring in a couple years.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2021 15:33
|
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Welcome to running your own business where you do everything but the thing you started the business to do! AMEN. I'm trying to get paid for a system I just delivered in France. The French bureaucracy makes India look easy. I am not amused.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2021 15:36
|
|
|
So I used to dabble in blacksmithing in my early 20s and have recently gotten back into it after about a decade so I'm basically starting from scratch in terms of what I remember. Anyway I'm trying to tool up so I took a trip to the scrapyard in search of some high carbon stuff. I found some old rod mill bars they use to tumble feldspar in the processing plants here in my area. Files don't do much to them and it throws some pretty bushy sparks off a grinder wheel so I'm thinking it's pretty tough stuff. I forged out a chisel, annealed and filed and then hardened in water which worked and didn't explode so I'm assuming it's simple high carbon steel and not some wacky alloy. I need advice about tempering as it's something I haven't had a lot of taught experience in.  I'm wondering if I should have let the temper run a bit more up the tip to make a bit more of the blade softer. I've used it a few times for marking cold 1018 and it doesn't show any signs of rolling or cracking but it's a little nerve racking wondering if I'm gonna shoot a hypersonic chip of tool steel into my forearm everytime I come down on it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2021 19:19
|
|
|
Jove Tone posted:
I'd start with 1 hour @ 390-400F, followed by a 2nd hour at the same temp. That's pretty generic for high carbon steel. I'm not a big fan of water quenching, but with unknown steel who knows.  My generic go to is canola oil.Worst case it's too soft, then you just rinse and repeat process with different temp.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2021 21:28
|
|
|
stranger danger posted:What's the deal with nickel? some Nickel Errata i've always enjoyed is that canadian nickels pre-1983 are actually made from 99.9% commercially-pure nickel. on one occasion i produced the special pure nickel electrode indicated for copper electroforming with a bit of hammering and drilling of an old 5-cent piece from my rainy-day jar. i was smug as poo poo for the rest of the day
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2021 23:16
|
|
|
Yooper posted:I'd start with 1 hour @ 390-400F, followed by a 2nd hour at the same temp. That's pretty generic for high carbon steel. I'm not a big fan of water quenching, but with unknown steel who knows. Thanks, I definitely need a little toaster oven just for tempering. As far as the steel goes, my best guess after doing some research and then just asking a friend who happens to be an engineer on one of the sites is that it's simple 1095.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2021 02:57
|
|
|
As someone coming from the other side of things (never used oven, heat in coal or with torch and watch color) what you have does look fine on the tempering side. You could actually probably have gone a touch harder (lighter color) on the cutting edge if you wanted/needed, I don't think you've overhardened at all. I do agree with the quenching comment; I pretty much only water quench but my tools are out of known steels. There are a few that were air/oil hardened because the material demanded it. 1095 is oil quenching, and if I recall it's particular enough not all oils work well, so look into that before doing tools that really need it. A cold chisel just for the marking and decorating early in a blacksmithing career doesn't ask much of the tool as far as being very hard or sharp. When you start trying to carve metal away, like adding corners into a round hole or something fancy that requires a lot of sharpness and strength that's when maybe you look closer at getting it perfect. I wouldn't worry too much about what you have for now. threelemmings fucked around with this message at 16:38 on Oct 20, 2021 |
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2021 16:31
|
|
|
threelemmings posted:As someone coming from the other side of things (never used oven, heat in coal or with torch and watch color) what you have does look fine on the tempering side. You could actually probably have gone a touch harder (lighter color) on the cutting edge if you wanted/needed, I don't think you've overhardened at all. Thanks for the advice! Where are you getting your info for the 1095? The heat treaters ASM international guide recommends water or brine quenching for max hardness unless it's under a quarter inch round in which case you would use oil.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2021 18:06
|
|
|
Jove Tone posted:Thanks for the advice! Where are you getting your info for the 1095? The heat treaters ASM international guide recommends water or brine quenching for max hardness unless it's under a quarter inch round in which case you would use oil. For a chisel tip, i think the interpretation should be If it's under 1/4 through the widest cross section of the working part of the tool, then you should use oil.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2021 18:49
|
|
|
Well that's just common sense now that I actually think about it, I certainly don't need the actual bottom half of the chisel to be at 66 HRC, just the tip! Thanks again! In other news I made a little rack thingy to hold my tongs that turned out surprisingly well. 
Jove Tone fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Oct 20, 2021 |
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2021 19:10
|
|
|
Jove Tone posted:Well that's just common sense now that I actually think about it, I certainly don't need the actual bottom half of the chisel to be at 66 HRC, just the tip! Thanks again! And on that note, one thing to consider if you do use an oven next time: ever since I was taught, I've done struck tools with a differential temper. Cutting face hard like you've got it, struck faces softened, usually going around blue. It always made sense to me though that you want the struck end to be a bit harder than normal so it doesn't mushroom out, but not so hard that it's brittle right where you smack it and/or tougher than the hammer so you don't mark your tools. I have no clue how you'd do that in an oven so someone else can chip in for that. threelemmings fucked around with this message at 21:43 on Oct 20, 2021 |
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2021 21:41
|
|
|
I didn't temper the struck end because I only hardened the tip. I just left it normalized and put a dome grind on it to help with the mushrooming. I would rather dress a chisel than re-face my hammer with the tools I have available right now. I think an oven would be good for things like hammer heads and blades if I ever get to that point.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2021 22:08
|
|
|
sorry
InsertPotPun fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Oct 23, 2021 |
|
#
?
Oct 22, 2021 21:11
|
|
|
Right thread, that looks awesome! What’s the ?
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2021 01:28
|
|
|
CarForumPoster posted:Right thread, that looks awesome! What’s the ? I think they're asking someone to smelt their scrap.
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2021 13:23
|
|
|
I'm assuming you are doing wearable stuff like the video? I will say that with just a few little fire brick pieces and a propane torch you can do copper/silver/brass casting at jewelry sizes pretty easily. Little crucibles are like ten bucks, you just arrange a little corner of brick for the crucible so you catch your heat. Biggest expense there is the bottle rental. You could probably get it somewhat done with little mapp bottles but, upfront cost aside, I think oxypropane is the cheapest per hour if you're just casting 3-5oz at a time. I don't cast all the time and have more than at-home tooling available so someone correct me if there's cheaper stuff available.
|
|
#
?
Oct 23, 2021 15:05
|
|
|
I have just been given a cute little anvil. It is in good condition but is covered in surface rust (no flaking or pitting, but not far from it, from what I can tell). What do options for rust treatment for solid iron look like, on a spectrum from cheap & easy to painful & expensive? e: Once the rust is removed, I intend to use it for jewelry & leatherworking, primarily. Not sure I could shape any steel thicker than a nail on it, it's maybe 10 inches long.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2021 06:31
|
|
|
You could put a clear coat of paint on the anvil body once you get it cleaned. The problem is the face because, at least with metal work, you want the face clean and smooth. If you use the anvil every day the hammering and heat will keep the face polished but if it's a long time between uses you need to use something like oil on the face or keep it put up in a place with 0 moisture.
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2021 14:33
|
|
|
HolHorsejob posted:I have just been given a cute little anvil. It is in good condition but is covered in surface rust (no flaking or pitting, but not far from it, from what I can tell). Submerge it in evaporust!
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2021 16:40
|
|
|
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-MC_ZEXQbw
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2021 22:16
|
|
|
Muriatic acid it is
|
|
#
?
Oct 24, 2021 22:35
|
|
|
what's a good price per foot for railroad track? found some local, but the guy is doing that "make an offer" BS
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2021 01:18
|
|
|
Ghostnuke posted:what's a good price per foot for railroad track? found some local, but the guy is doing that "make an offer" BS
|
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2021 01:48
|
|
|
HolHorsejob posted:Muriatic acid it is there’s more to this than just raw rust removal efficacy, which tbh for an anvil isn’t really that important, some level of rust is very common-to-omnipresent on the non-working faces of anvils unless painted or lacquered. in the case of of an anvil, ease of application is quite important- if you have to immerse the object in a thin liquid to do rust removal, you may need a rather large quantity of product. this is the case with acid rust removal. there are products that defy gravity and can be brushed on to large, impractical-to-immerse objects, naval jelly being the most popular. you won’t need litres of the stuff to treat the anvil, just a small quantity brushed on would do. also, successful rust removal has different levels of technical complexity/difficulty, different levels of secondary damage to the unrusted base metal, and different degrees of consequence if you gently caress it up. some products are basically impossible to harm the workpiece with or really ‘screw up’; chelation rust treatments such as evaporust fall into this category. acid rust removal is at the other end of the spectrum- the entire part is actively being eroded, rust and steel alike, and the timing of the immersion must be carefully monitored and controlled or serious surface erosion can occur. if you forget the part is can literally rust to nothing, or deep pits that compromise the part can result. in addition, acid treatments must be thoroughly neutralized after treatment, or the part will start rusting even more aggressively once you think you’ve wrapped things up. you can get rust continuing underneath a layer of paint or lacquer, even. overall acids will do a lot of unwanted damage and metal removal from your anvil even if correctly used, but incorrect use could hypothetically be bad enough that you’d need to do restorative/repair work for what the acid did. there’s also the heath and safety factor. chelating rust removers are essentially innocuous as long as you’re not drinking the stuff; improper use of hydrochloric acid can easily result in permanent blindness, disability or death, and even a very small screwup (flicked drop of acid in your eye can cause a lifetime of problems. if you don’t have to work with acid you should avoid doing so if at all possible, as a matter of general policy basically: i would prioritize safety, ease of application and a low-impact, low-damage approach much more than raw rust-eating ability here. Especially with a tool that is most probably an antique that may not be manufactured to the same standard/in the same form factor at all nowadays. Naval jelly is probably my pick for anything but a small anvil that’s practical to immerse in a large ziploc bag filled with Evaporust or similar. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 02:02 on Oct 25, 2021 |
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2021 01:59
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 11, 2024 19:53 |
|
|
This video annoys me. He is really glossing over some of the important details of how the compounds differ from one another. He casually mentions once "the acid cleaners remove good metal too" but doesn't come back to it, and that is a massive problem if you are restoring something valuable or cleaning a part with close tolerancing. He doesn't discuss the neutralization steps you need to take with the acid cleaners, either. And he doesn't follow the correct procedure for Evap-O-Rust. That stuff chemically converts the rust to loose black oxide which you just brush off, but he looks at the oxide coating after soaking it and concludes that it doesn't do as good as job as the other stuff that exposes bare metal, even though once you scrub the Evap-O-Rust part it's as clean as the acid-etched stuff. And he doesn't even mention that hmm, maybe the reason the naval jelly outperformed everything else on the flat sheet is simply because the gel doesn't evaporate anywhere near as fast as the other compounds do (lol a paper towel), so whether you can immerse the part or need to brush it on makes a huge difference to your selection. And he starts with seeing how much rust disappears in 5 minutes?? That's totally irrelevant to most home shop types; yeah sure you care about speed if you're in a plant, but if you want to clean up an old wrench at home you have zero problem soaking it in Evap-O-Rust overnight. Argh! My recommendation is: Evap-O-Rust any time you can immerse the part Naval jelly if it's too large for immersion, but be careful with it Muriatic acid only if you care about speed over every other factor, including safety and destructiveness skip everything else e: ambrose beat me to it Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 02:53 on Oct 25, 2021 |
|
#
?
Oct 25, 2021 02:45
|
|