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lol what the gently caress? assuming an average speed of 45mph that’s nearly 5 hours a day scooting my man is living the dream
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# ? Aug 12, 2021 14:50 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 07:28 |
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I took my metropolitan in for its first service today. 500 miles!
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# ? Aug 12, 2021 15:26 |
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Anyone have thoughts on what's the best mileage tire for a 3.50-10? We got an absolute lunatic of a customer here with a Buddy 125 who just wore his Michelin S83 through the cord and blew it out over 3000 miles in 2 weeks. Would like to recommend him something longer lasting. I think I've seen Shinko 009s last longer than that maybe but not much. Michelin City Grip maybe? I haven't had them on for very long but they still look brand new after a couple of months. BTW is this the same guy you've posted about before who's driving around doing photography basically racking up enough mileage on a 50cc scooter to go around the world in a single summer?
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# ? Aug 12, 2021 15:47 |
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Cached Money posted:Michelin City Grip maybe? I haven't had them on for very long but they still look brand new after a couple of months. And yeah this dude did 10k on an unmodified Roughhouse 50 in one summer. I think he said he was going for 20k on the B125. Edit: oh I dunno what was wrong with my eyes, yeah they got 100/90-10. Ordering those. Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester fucked around with this message at 01:26 on Aug 13, 2021 |
# ? Aug 12, 2021 21:45 |
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I can't find city grips in 100/90-10 though or I would have gone for that. I'll second City Grips if 100/90-10 is a close enough match for 3.5x10. I have them on my Zuma 125 in (120/70x12 and 130/70x12) and got 8k out of a rear before a nail did it in and it had tons of tread left and was in good shape (not flattening out or cupping too bad) and have probably 12k on the front, which at this point should be replaced due to age, but is also still in great shape.
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# ? Aug 13, 2021 06:54 |
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The spark plug chat from a couple pages back inspired me to check mine. I never did any real tuning after installing the cylinder kit/exhaust on my vespa (4 stroke, fuel-injected), I just set the provided injection controller to the map specified in the manual for my particular mods and left the low/middle/high adjustment knobs in their default position. The exhaust at idle definitely smells richer to me than stock, though I'm not sure if that's just because there's no cat in the aftermarket exhaust like their was in stock. Can I get a sanity check on this plug? The electrode and insulator are clean but the threaded part is quite sooty. Google results vary quite a bit on what a 'normal' plug should look like.
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# ? Aug 17, 2021 20:56 |
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There's a 78 Puch magnum xk for sale for $250. Are any of you familiar with something like that? I offered the guy $200 and a case of beer and as long as I pick it up before Monday it's mine. Doesn't run but by the sounds of it it just needs some fresh gas and a carb clean.
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# ? Aug 19, 2021 20:21 |
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Bi-la kaifa posted:There's a 78 Puch magnum xk for sale for $250. Are any of you familiar with something like that? I offered the guy $200 and a case of beer and as long as I pick it up before Monday it's mine. Doesn't run but by the sounds of it it just needs some fresh gas and a carb clean. Go for it, sounds good.
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# ? Aug 20, 2021 11:10 |
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Update on the Zuma: I replaced the reed valve assembly and all of the carb gaskets. On my initial check, it seems to be running lean without the airbox installed (it won’t idle without the airbox, but seems to idle and rev fine if I lightly put my hand over the air intake side of the carb). So it seems like the richness has been fixed? I’ll know for sure once the scooter is actually reassembled.
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# ? Aug 23, 2021 20:06 |
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So the Zuma seems to have gone from running very rich to very lean- it will only idle if I almost completely plug the airbox side of the carb. Is it possible that I reassembled the choke incorrectly? Also, I noticed that the position of the washer (circled in red) affects the position of the throttle needle, moving it up and down. What position is it supposed to be in? The service manual doesn’t even mention this adjustment.
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# ? Aug 24, 2021 05:38 |
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Bouillon Rube posted:So the Zuma seems to have gone from running very rich to very lean- it will only idle if I almost completely plug the airbox side of the carb. The long nut looks like an adjusting nut for the throttle slack. If it's so tight that it's actually opening the throttle, it shouldn't be! Check the throttle while you're doing this. Is there any slack in it? It should have a small amount of slack when the handlebars and front wheel are centered. By the way, when I say "slack", I mean that the twist grip should feel a smidge loose, like you can twist it 1/4" without it actually pulling on the throttle cable. The reason that this adjuster exists, is because the body of the throttle cable gets pulled very slightly when the handlebars turn. You want enough slack in the cable such that the cable doesn't actuate the throttle, even though its body is getting yanked around. Slide Hammer fucked around with this message at 06:35 on Aug 24, 2021 |
# ? Aug 24, 2021 06:32 |
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Ok. I fixed the throttle adjustment but still having the same issue- it dies as soon as I apply any throttle unless the air intake is almost completely plugged. The new reed valve assembly is nice and snug, as is the carb. I’m thinking it’s the crank seals; if that’s the case I might need to give the scooter away as it seems like a huge project https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F5LQL1iXHRQ Bouillon Rube fucked around with this message at 21:41 on Aug 24, 2021 |
# ? Aug 24, 2021 17:25 |
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Bouillon Rube posted:Ok. I fixed the throttle adjustment but still having the same issue- it dies as soon as I apply any throttle unless the air intake is almost completely plugged. The new reed valve assembly is nice and snug, as is the carb. Is it the same if you put the air box back? Also replacing crank seals is pretty easy, much like everything else on a scooter, there aren't really any super complicated things to repair on a simple 2 stroke engine like that.
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# ? Aug 25, 2021 08:58 |
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Lots of two stroke motors let you do crank seals without splitting the cases. It can be as easy as lust taking a cover off the motor, yanking the old seal with a pick and putting the new one in. My 72 Suzuki allows this, so a much more modern engine like yours shouldn’t be much worse. Don’t send it down the river until you know what a crank seal replacement actually takes on that engine.
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# ? Aug 25, 2021 12:47 |
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It's a vertical minarelli so you'll probably have to take off the CVT and the flywheel + magneto on the other side. Then you can take the old seals out with a pick or by screwing a wood screw into the old one and pulling it out, then use a pipe to hammer the new ones into position. There are videos on YouTube on how to do it.
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# ? Aug 25, 2021 14:48 |
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Cached Money posted:a vertical minarelli It's time to play "Engine or scam George Clooney and Brad Pitt talked about in an Ocean's movie"
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# ? Aug 25, 2021 15:00 |
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Cached Money posted:Is it the same if you put the air box back? Also replacing crank seals is pretty easy, much like everything else on a scooter, there aren't really any super complicated things to repair on a simple 2 stroke engine like that. Yeah, the airbox does nothing. I’ve also done a spark test and checked the exhaust gasket; so I don’t know what else it could possibly be. Scooter Swap Shop actually has a good video for changing the seals on Prebug Zuma’s, it seems a little tricky but not THAT bad.
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# ? Aug 25, 2021 16:25 |
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I put over 100 miles in on my Royal Alloy 150 on Sunday and it's both clear to me that this bike is really well sized for me (even with my bum hip that I've been working on, a stop and stretch and I was good to go to head home) and that a 150 just isn't enough to really tour with. I love this bike a lot and am still waffling on whether to just make it my city rider and pick up an ADV bike or something similar when I have some cash or to leave this thing stock and trade it in towards a 300 whenever they become available. I've been riding it around a ton before that too, but on shorter trips. I wanted to be sure the engine was nice and broke in before I kept it at high throttle for long-ish distances.
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# ? Aug 31, 2021 22:32 |
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:It can be as easy as lust taking a cover off the motor, yanking the old seal with a pick and putting the new one in. This is the sexiest quote from a Haynes manual I have ever read.
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# ? Sep 5, 2021 16:54 |
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With the right attitude every line of a Haynes manual is sexy
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# ? Sep 6, 2021 14:16 |
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Installation... is the reverse of removal. ;-)
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# ? Sep 7, 2021 05:22 |
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Clean the flange with a stiff wire brush ;-)
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# ? Sep 10, 2021 11:48 |
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Another week, another Zuma problem I replaced both of the crank seals and put everything back together….but now the starter motor seems really weak and can’t overcome the magnetic field on the stator (so the magneto can’t do a full rotation and the scooter won’t start). The magneto just moves very slowly and get itself stuck after 1/3 of a turn or so. Kick starting doesn’t do anything either; it turns over but no spark or ignition Any ideas?
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# ? Sep 15, 2021 16:44 |
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Bouillon Rube posted:Another week, another Zuma problem Check so that everything you took apart is installed correctly again, considering you don't get any spark (have you checked this with the spark plug removed?) something related to the magneto is probably installed wrong because that is what supplies the power to the ignition coil and triggers the ignition.
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# ? Sep 15, 2021 18:45 |
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I’ve taken apart and reassembled the stator a few times and don’t really see anything wrong with it, and all of the wires still seem to connect to it. I’m hearing a loud ticking (or whining if I hold the ignition down) from this little (fuse?) box. Is it possible that I shorted something out while messing with the generator assembly and hosed up a fuse?
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# ? Sep 15, 2021 20:59 |
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I’m not sure about the rest of it, but that’s a relay, so the clicking part makes sense.
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# ? Sep 16, 2021 00:22 |
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Huh, ok. An issue with the stator wouldn’t keep the flywheel from spinning though, right? Wouldn’t that be the starter motor? But shouldn’t kick starting still work with fucky starter motor?
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# ? Sep 16, 2021 03:51 |
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Bouillon Rube posted:Another week, another Zuma problem Is the starter motor weak, or is the battery dead? The latter seems way more likely and a relay clicking but the starter not spinning fast enough is pretty classic weak battery. Kick starting shouldn't be impacted by a bad/dead battery, but depending on how that electrical system is setup it's not impossible. Does the effort to kick it over seem any different? Like if something was reinstalled wrong that caused extra friction, enough that the starter (with a strong battery) couldn't overcome it, you should feel that when kicking.
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# ? Sep 16, 2021 05:40 |
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Reddit is terrible, but I love to see people I don’t have to feel bad for making choices.
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# ? Oct 1, 2021 21:03 |
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I'm getting my scooter serviced today and they gave me this 300 as a loaner. Holy hell, this thing rules. https://i.imgur.com/2NRO3AH.jpg Looking at Vespas now and I found this Christian Dior 946. I wish I was rich. https://www.vespa.com/au_EN/vespa-world/news/vespa-946-christian-dior/ open24hours fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Oct 26, 2021 |
# ? Oct 26, 2021 00:46 |
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https://advrider.com/justin-bieber-...tent=12_21_2021quote:Stay tuned for the 2022 unveiling of an exciting new collaboration between two contemporary global icons: Justin Bieber and Vespa.
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# ? Jan 2, 2022 20:49 |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LKx87D6xqXA
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# ? Jan 23, 2022 07:27 |
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Can anyone point me toward a good parts checklist and guide for upgrading a genuine roughhouse and buddy 50cc to 70cc?
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# ? Jan 26, 2022 07:06 |
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rally posted:Can anyone point me toward a good parts checklist and guide for upgrading a genuine roughhouse and buddy 50cc to 70cc? Something like this: https://www.scootertuning.ca/en/engine-package-sport/80010-engine-package-malossi-sport-70cc-genuine-pgo.html If you want to go cheaper, just get a cast iron cylinder kit, DR for example is great value, some lighter CVT weights and carb jets.
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# ? Jan 26, 2022 09:03 |
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I did a 70 + pipe + CVT kit on a Roughhouse once and the thing would pull wheelies and go like 55mph. It was insane.
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# ? Feb 4, 2022 03:47 |
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That's intriguing considering that it looks good and only costs 2 grand new. A rad scoot for fire roads and local errands would be great, but is it "the only scooter in its class that is as tough as it looks.". Because I half suspect it's a chinese grade scooter that will fall apart on it's own.
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# ? Feb 4, 2022 18:24 |
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Talking about Roughhouses? Their production is a little lacking in niceties like the manual has a different name on it and some of the name badges are not long-lived stickers. Lots of plastics. In that sense it's not Honda level. But the reliability is top notch in my opinion. We see more problems with Metros and Ruckuses than Buddy 50s and RH50s. And they can also be modded to go hella fast. And they're Taiwanese, for what it's worth.
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# ? Feb 6, 2022 04:16 |
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Have you had any Navis in yet? Or are they still too new. Those are also about $2000 new, but they have 100cc. Not strictly a scooter though, because of the riding position.
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# ? Feb 6, 2022 06:43 |
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I still don't even see Groms all that often, haven't seen a Monkey or a new Super Cub, so no, imagining I won't see one for a while. Very odd bike, I'm interested in seeing how well they sell. I'm skeptical.
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# ? Feb 6, 2022 15:53 |
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# ? Jun 8, 2024 07:28 |
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If you were looking for a 49cc project scooter, maybe not a complete basket case but in need of some work, what models would you look for and what would you absolutely avoid? There are Tao Taos, Kymcos, odd Honda’s, and the occasional Genuine around me in my potential budget.
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# ? Feb 6, 2022 21:11 |