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I'm not sure what I should look for in the vertias seconds sale. poo poo.
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Oct 27, 2021 14:45
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knox_harrington posted:OK ! Got a wooden one from the brico for 20 francs It's exactly the same procedure as sharpening, which you need to know anyway and applies to every edged hand tool you'll own. The sharpening portion of this video will set you up quite easily if you're not used to doing it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RYyV6IUpsYk&t=1954
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Oct 27, 2021 14:48
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drat I wish we could buy new little wooden planes here for $20.
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Oct 27, 2021 15:16
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:New/used normal motors still aren't exactly cheap here, but this is a discontinued funky motor with funky mounts that was only made for this saw. I doubt it, but I'll check. We were throwing them out at work, and I only took the ones that I thought I could use, and I don't have the slightest hope of getting three-phase.
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Oct 27, 2021 15:48
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:drat I wish we could buy new little wooden planes here for $20. Can we even buy decent plane irons for $20?
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Oct 27, 2021 16:12
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Jhet posted:Can we even buy decent plane irons for $20? I'm telling ya, those Czech toolmakers have it. It's just that nobody bothers much to import them in North America. There's an long-established tool shop in my town that brings them in directly, but I don't think they'll be in business much longer, which is a shame. The trade school cutting the hand-tool teaching from the curriculum really did a number on him.
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Oct 27, 2021 16:40
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shame on an IGA posted:
Thanks again for the diagram. I used some 150 grit on a pencil and sanded down that spot on the wall and have the clearance needed for pretty smooth opening and closing. And it looks completely normal with the box closed. My only concern now is that the holes drilled in the side wall and lid for the pin must be off by a tiny amount. I think they're aligned well but maybe not drilled perfectly even though I used my drill press and fence. When I open and close I can see that the pins have to rotate slightly and bind a little but don't interfere with anything as of now. I'm only using some CA glue on the end of the pin that sits in the side wall so I don't think it would screw up the lid action in the end.
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Oct 27, 2021 17:02
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CommonShore posted:I'm not sure what I should look for in the vertias seconds sale. poo poo. Hope you got something! I had a scraper, spokeshave, and dovetail saw in my cart and I'm not sure I actually got any of them lol
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Oct 27, 2021 17:13
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Cannon_Fodder posted:My email tells me the veritas seconds sale is up at Lee valley at noon edt tomorrow. God help my wallet. Thanks for the heads up. I'm pretty sure I got a dovetail saw.
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Oct 27, 2021 17:18
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Managed to snag a large router plane and a #7 jointer plane that’ll really come in handy for a timber project on the docket for next year. Just narrowly missed out on a scrub plane, dang
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Oct 27, 2021 17:27
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Rufio posted:Hope you got something! I had a scraper, spokeshave, and dovetail saw in my cart and I'm not sure I actually got any of them lol I got a small router plane - I was going to buy a mortising chisel but it was sold out by the time I got to the checkout.
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Oct 27, 2021 17:28
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Looks like I got the dovetail saw but no scraper or spokeshave. Oh well I'll take it.
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Oct 27, 2021 17:31
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I got a dovetail saw and the low-angle jack. 
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Oct 27, 2021 18:01
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Picked up the one thing I went in for - the bevel-up jointer.
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Oct 27, 2021 18:42
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CommonShore posted:I got a small router plane - I was going to buy a mortising chisel but it was sold out by the time I got to the checkout. I tried to buy the small and medium router planes as well as the Mortising chisels (1/4, and 1/2 inch models). I got nothing.
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Oct 27, 2021 18:44
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knox_harrington posted:OK ! Got a wooden one from the brico for 20 francs Looks like a factory fresh edge. Round over the corners or grind it in a very gentle curve, flatten back, then sharpen as usual, and you should be good.
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Oct 27, 2021 19:50
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Just Winging It posted:Looks like a factory fresh edge. Round over the corners or grind it in a very gentle curve, flatten back, then sharpen as usual, and you should be good. Thanks. Fortunately I had some boring meetings this afternoon where I didn't need to speak so I followed a guide by Paul Sellers and think it's in a bit better shape now. I hadn't heard of him before, he's great and reminds me of woodwork class at school. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2lvF8-nc_Q
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Oct 27, 2021 20:16
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My lord wants to lay siege to the neighboring earls grain stores as revenge for an incident with his sister. My village has been instructed to proved "20 able bowmen" and I've been drafted but I can't shoot a longbow for my life. So I'm making this giant crossbows out of maple. I hope I'm not whipped for insolence     I may have picked too large a piece, but it was the best straightest one I had and I wanted to have a good draw weight.
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Oct 27, 2021 20:33
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ViQF11GPhtI
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Oct 27, 2021 20:42
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Oct 27, 2021 21:54
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 That might be exactly the video I watched before having this idea
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Oct 27, 2021 21:54
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nosleep posted:Thanks again for the diagram. I used some 150 grit on a pencil and sanded down that spot on the wall and have the clearance needed for pretty smooth opening and closing. And it looks completely normal with the box closed. good to hear everything worked out!
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Oct 27, 2021 21:56
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Rutibex posted:
You should probably consider then that the maple chunk you're dealing with might be suitable if you split it to use that 1/3 of it that's opposite the fork and knots. That might be your only usable part.
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Oct 27, 2021 21:56
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SimonSays posted:I'm telling ya, those Czech toolmakers have it. It's just that nobody bothers much to import them in North America. oh poo poo found them https://www.infinitytools.com/tools/hand-tools/hand-planes-scrapers/bench-planes e: at 400% markup
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Oct 27, 2021 22:20
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Sorry but all the Eurogoons itt just got conscripted to ship us poor, benighted Americans cheap wooden hand planes or I’m gonna start handing out probes. There are some fancy guys that hand-make wooden planes for a lot of money who I think make a decent living at it and good for them, but it’s really kind of frustrating that those/EC Emmerich are all that’s available here. Machine making a wooden hand plane clearly isn’t that hard or expensive. My favorite handplane I’ve ever used was a wooden EC Emmerich smoother with a wedge and I need to get one of my own.
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Oct 27, 2021 23:24
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CommonShore posted:You should probably consider then that the maple chunk you're dealing with might be suitable if you split it to use that 1/3 of it that's opposite the fork and knots. That might be your only usable part.  Yeah those knots are going to be challenging to work around. But if I can't make it work I do have an alternative: 
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Oct 27, 2021 23:39
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Dieter Schmidt Fine Tools carries the ECE wooden smoothers (https://www.fine-tools.com/putzh.html), price is quite modest, and even factoring the probably obnoxious shipping/customs fees will still be quite a lot cheaper than what that handful of American dudes I keep seeing everywhere charge for their handmade ones.
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Oct 27, 2021 23:41
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Stultus Maximus posted:Looks fine to me. I just bought a Type 7 (1890s-era) no. 7 on eBay yesterday in about the same condition for about the same price (adjusting for conversion to USD). Speaking of, this thing came a lot faster and in a LOT better condition than even the pictures suggested. It arrived fully restored and oiled up:  What a beautiful beast. Over 120 years old and just look at that.
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Oct 27, 2021 23:53
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Elder Postsman posted:Thanks for the heads up. I'm pretty sure I got a dovetail saw. Fortaleza posted:Managed to snag a large router plane and a #7 jointer plane that’ll really come in handy for a timber project on the docket for next year. CommonShore posted:I got a small router plane - I was going to buy a mortising chisel but it was sold out by the time I got to the checkout. Rufio posted:Looks like I got the dovetail saw but no scraper or spokeshave. Oh well I'll take it. more falafel please posted:I got a dovetail saw and the low-angle jack. z0331 posted:Picked up the one thing I went in for - the bevel-up jointer.  Glad I could be of some help. I snagged a 5 1/4w babby jack plane. Last year I got the LA rabbet jack, so at least most my main planing will be done with a solid plane. The junk collector posted:I tried to buy the small and medium router planes as well as the Mortising chisels (1/4, and 1/2 inch models). I got nothing. Feck, those fly. Sorry bud.
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Oct 28, 2021 00:39
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Stultus Maximus posted:Speaking of, this thing came a lot faster and in a LOT better condition than even the pictures suggested. It arrived fully restored and oiled up: Awesome
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Oct 28, 2021 11:47
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Just Winging It posted:Dieter Schmidt Fine Tools carries the ECE wooden smoothers (https://www.fine-tools.com/putzh.html), price is quite modest, and even factoring the probably obnoxious shipping/customs fees will still be quite a lot cheaper than what that handful of American dudes I keep seeing everywhere charge for their handmade ones. Cheapest shipping to the USA, according to their complicated shipping costs page, is German Post (which converts to USPS when it enters the US), starting at €29.00 for 1kg and going up from there. I imagine most shipments would be in the <5kg range, at €49.00. That's... not awful, I guess, if you order several items? Thanks for the link.
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Oct 28, 2021 19:27
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Just Winging It posted:Dieter Schmidt Fine Tools carries the ECE wooden smoothers (https://www.fine-tools.com/putzh.html), price is quite modest, and even factoring the probably obnoxious shipping/customs fees will still be quite a lot cheaper than what that handful of American dudes I keep seeing everywhere charge for their handmade ones. Someone used to, or maybe still does, sell them in the US. Not sure it would be any cheaper. Thebestthings.com I think, but they only sell vintage tools now. E: google says lots of places sell them actually. Highland hardware, Lee Valley, Tools for Working Wood, and seems like probably cheaper than getting them direct from Europe. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 19:50 on Oct 28, 2021 |
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Oct 28, 2021 19:48
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Rutibex posted:
No, your maple should work, but there's only one strip of it that's suitable - remember that you want to split the thing so that you don't have pith anyway, and the knots are only on one side of the log. On the other hand, you only need one strip to be usable. The outer growth rings will be the uh... belly? of the bow. From what I see you have a good chunk opposite the larger Y knot. Hammer a wedge into the end, perpendicular to that knot and just a smidge across the pith and split that bastard away. It looks to me as if that will give you a good piece anyway. With the disclaimer that I haven't handled that piece of wood.
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Oct 28, 2021 20:13
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I know we're all at least woodworking-adjacent and so probably reasonably familiar with the idea that sharp things in the workshop are dangerous and to take precautions, but I feel like it's worth saying this anyway: A crossbow is a deadly weapon, and as much as I'm an advocate for gung-ho "just give it a try" woodworking, please take extreme precautions when YOLOing your way through the construction of a powerful deadly weapon like that. At the very least, I suggest you rig a way to do multiple test-firings in a very safe environment where you are not putting your face and neck and hands and arms all very close to a bow under loads of tension and compression and torsion etc., made out of a random log you found and chopped down to what you eyeballed as probably a good size. Like seriously, I've had a real, manufactured, not even incorrectly made, just slightly wrongly strung bow misfire next to my face. I was lucky to avoid injury. There's not a lot of margin for error in several places for a normal bow, and a crossbow's whole deal is using mechanical leverage to put a lot more stored energy into a shorter length of wood.
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Oct 28, 2021 20:23
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Leperflesh posted:I know we're all at least woodworking-adjacent and so probably reasonably familiar with the idea that sharp things in the workshop are dangerous and to take precautions, but I feel like it's worth saying this anyway:  I always try to be exceptionally careful around power tools and other things that can blow me up or lacerate me. Any test firing are going to be under carefully controlled laboratory conditions with safety goggles. They will also be filmed
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Oct 28, 2021 21:32
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Leperflesh posted:I know we're all at least woodworking-adjacent and so probably reasonably familiar with the idea that sharp things in the workshop are dangerous and to take precautions, but I feel like it's worth saying this anyway: How do you string a bow wrong? I only played around with recurve types, never picked up one of those newfangled compounds.
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Oct 29, 2021 17:08
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When the good Stanley planes were new, would the buyer have had to carefully even out the sole plate and sharpen the blade, or would they have arrived ready to go?
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Oct 29, 2021 17:52
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Mr. Mambold posted:How do you string a bow wrong? I only played around with recurve types, never picked up one of those newfangled compounds. My hoyt-style takedown bow had one limb not secured perfectly flat in its socket. The bowstring loop at the end of that limb wasn't resting nicely in its groove, but I was in the bright sun, getting ready to shoot with friends, and didn't notice. On my first shot, the string jumped around the limb, causing the bow to twist in my hands and the arrow to fly astray. Fortunately, nobody got hurt. The geometry of the bow was only off by a fraction, it wasn't even noticeable until I was sitting there meticulously going over it to figure out what went wrong. That's why I'm sounding a note of caution: a handmade bow needs to be well balanced in geometry, with plenty of margin for error, and still should be treated with doubt until it's fired a few hundred times without any sign of cracking or twisting or other misbehavior. Arsenic Lupin posted:When the good Stanley planes were new, would the buyer have had to carefully even out the sole plate and sharpen the blade, or would they have arrived ready to go? I'm not 100% on this, but I believe it's always been considered normal to "fettle" a new plane, e.g. futz around with it to get it just right, including flattening and sharpening etc. That said, I'm sure it varied a lot. In the early 20th century when many of our transitional and metal planes were being made, woodworkers were doing a lot of carpentry by hand that these days are done with power tools, and not needing as much accuracy for a lot of that. Of course, many others were building fine furniture and so forth, too. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Oct 29, 2021 |
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Oct 29, 2021 18:32
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I'm interested in making my own coffee table with a butcher block like this. The top is pretty easy, but I'm unsure of how to attach legs to it. Is it as simple as just buying four of these, or is there something else I'd need as well? Edit: and if I need something, should I trust something I get off of Amazon or do I need to go to a specialty store or something?
Pollyanna fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Oct 29, 2021 |
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Oct 29, 2021 18:55
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So, basically yes you can just stick legs on it: but, unbraced, those legs will experience a lot of leverage in a sideways direction (we call that racking) unless they are braced in some way. If you start looking at the undersides of tables that live near you, you'll see a number of different schemes and designs for keeping the legs nice and square. One fairly straightforward approach is to attach aprons - basically, four planks of wood, attached to the tops of the legs where they meet the tabletop, of a decent width: Aprons have the advantage of keeping the legs clear, so you can scoot chairs or your feet under the table without hitting anything. Another option is to use some kind of angled bracing:  This example is pretty elaborate, but that's not necessarily required, the important part is that you have created a triangle between the table surface and the leg, and triangles are strong in both compression and tension so they stiffen up the legs for you. This approach does require making 45 degree angled cuts in wood, though, which might be more difficult for you if you don't have much in the way of tools. They also need to fasten to the table top somehow. Another approach is a stretcher base. Stretchers are lengths of wood that "stretch" between the legs, much like aprons, but instead of being up under the tabletop, they're down near the floor:  Stretchers prevent the legs from applying loads of angular leverage at the top, especially when they're bumped or kicked near the foot, or when someone decides to drag the table across a carpet without lifting it. They're frequently used for dining tables for that reason. They do not provide as much stiffness as aprons or angle braces in terms of preventing racking, but they do OK, and they can look nice, and can even be intentionally designed as footrests too. Lastly: you can add strength simply by using extra-thikk legs. If they're nice and chonky at the point where they join the table top, they can provide their own stability, especially if they're attached with more than just one central fastener. Here is an article that runs down most of these considerations. I suggest picking a method you like, and then we can help you figure out how to do your attaching. https://www.tablelegs.com/resources-how-tos/6-ways-to-make-a-stronger-table/
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Oct 29, 2021 19:30
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