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Where’s a good place to rent a Sprinter-style van these days? I’m in NYC fwiw and gotta make a run to a storage unit upstate. The enterprise truck rental in Queens was like “yeah we don’t have anything. Not sure when that’ll change”
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Oct 28, 2021 16:29
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Head Bee Guy posted:Where’s a good place to rent a Sprinter-style van these days? I’m in NYC fwiw and gotta make a run to a storage unit upstate. Home Depot. $129 a day for a transit with unlimited mileage. there's 1 available in Jersey City right now Powershift fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Oct 28, 2021 |
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Oct 28, 2021 16:31
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2005 Honda Pilot Original starter, battery changed about 6 months ago, never had it die on the road or anything like that yet. Probably original alternator too. Maybe once every 2 weeks the car sounds harder to start than usual. It's not a huge change, just another quarter second to start up (yes I notice stuff like that). The worst one I had was last week where it whirred like a machine gun and I stopped cranking it -- this only happened once. I cranked it a second time and it started right up. I suspect there's some buildup in the starter and it's probably gonna go out. Two questions: 1) Is there anything else that could be wrong, or do I need to bust out a multimeter to check things out? The battery seems fine as it's fairly new. 2) I tried replacing the starter myself but got completely hosed on the two bolts holding it. They are crazy tight and using a long rear end pipe on my socket wrench did nothing. I was able to get to the starter in about 10 minutes, it's just two bolts that are stuck on stupid tight. Should I just bring it into a shop? ($500 parts and labor). I guess I'm answering my own questions, but my worry is being stuck without a car in my carport because I destroyed a bolt, then having tools I failed to use.. Sigh I guess I'm at that stage of life where it's easier to write a check than get my hands dirty as hell. The shop said they'd test everything too, so maybe that's just the route I need to take.
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Oct 28, 2021 18:20
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I've got a '99 Mazda B4000 with the 4.0 V6 engine (I want to say OHV) that is in dire straights. It would probably be too much to fix what's wrong with it to pass an inspection and be safe to drive. BUT, locally there's a guy near me selling an 03 Ranger XLT that, at least he claims, only has a bad transmission. I don't have the full details on what specs his Ranger is, but... what are the odds my transmission (which is one of the few good parts on my truck) will fit on his and a shop can do a swap for ideally not TOO much money? He's listing the truck for less than $600, which is a steal as far as I'm concerned cause I see older trucks that don't run at ALL around here being sold for double that as parts trucks, and his at least has a working engine and it can SORT OF drive (he says it's stuck in "limp mode.") Just wondering if 1) The transmissions are compatible 2) Even if they are, if it's even worth it if it costs too much in labor to swap (I'm just going to assume it's probably not something I can do myself.) Though there's also the chance it doesn't need a whole transmission swap and maybe just a few parts from mine will need to go into his? (He thinks it's just the solenoid packs in the trans.)
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Oct 28, 2021 18:32
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Bank posted:2005 Honda Pilot If you're going to do it, soak the bolts with FreeAll / PB Blaster for as long as possible - like, literally, get under there and spray it, leave it in, repeat every day for a week, then try it. If the quote is unreasonable, you can probably buy a pretty drat nice battery impact gun for less than the difference.
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Oct 28, 2021 18:32
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Bank posted:2005 Honda Pilot In my experience that sound can be from a stuck solenoid (or a sticking solenoid) but also happens occasionally when the voltage is too low to effectively deploy the solenoid. The starter has a little gear that uses a solenoid to extend to interface with the flywheel. You generally replace the whole starter instead of this solenoid so you had the right idea. Do you still have the new starter? IMO you should check it before you start it next time with the multimeter just to see. Regarding the bolts, do you have a breaker bar? Can you get onto the bolts squarely and so forth? If so, I'd just go ahead and do that and use a bit more gumption. If you feel like you could strip the head of the bolt because you can't quite get onto them properly, maybe just take it to a shop. Agree with the poster above me about soaking the bolts in some penetrating oil/product. Try also letting the car sit for a second in the 'on' position before you turn the key further to start the engine. This gives the fuel pump a little more time to prime the rails in case the issue is that fuel isn't reaching the cylinder yet. If you find this makes a big difference and it turns over right away you might want to have the fuel filter replaced (it might be partially clogged). e: if you find one morning your car won't start and you need to get somewhere try smacking the starter with something to free up a possibly seized solenoid. I've had to do this for a few weeks on an 87 supra years ago before I had the money to replace it.
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Oct 28, 2021 18:34
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Thanks folks -- apparently the car has a "lifetime" fuel filter which I realize could need replacing, but unlikely, so probably the starter solenoid. The starter is like $100 and I can probably buy a decent impact gun for less than $100. I guess I have to figure out if it's worth spending another $300 to not get hands dirty and spend potentially an afternoon/day doing it. I've had some bad luck on some car repairs (tried to replace a serpentine belt and ended up getting it towed to a dealer...) and while the top bolt is easy to get to, the bottom one is pretty hidden -- I haven't even tried to get to it from the engine bay -- so I'll probably just pay the shop to do it.
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Oct 28, 2021 19:16
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Nothing in a car is actually lifetime, that's just code for "when it needs to be done it's going to be annoying". Not saying it's the filter but don't assume it's unlikely because it's called lifetime. e: just making a comment on lifetime, no diagnosis or blame intended taqueso fucked around with this message at 20:46 on Oct 28, 2021 |
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Oct 28, 2021 20:29
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I think we need more clarification on what the root issue is before we start trying to blame fuel filters. Also, if it runs well when it's running (especially at higher load/RPM), then the filter isn't likely the issue unless it's a combination filter/regulator/check valve. If it's just a sock on the inlet of the pump and the engine isn't lean or down on power, the filter's not the issue. When it takes longer, are we talking about it spends more time cranking before it fires, or it doesn't start cranking as soon as you turn the key? When was the last time it had the timing belt changed and valve lash adjusted?
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Oct 28, 2021 20:39
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taqueso posted:Nothing in a car is actually lifetime, that's just code for "when it needs to be done it's going to be annoying". Not saying it's the filter but don't assume it's unlikely because it's called lifetime. My '13 Audi A4 (2L TFSI) has lifetime ATF! Who knows when it will keel over and die.
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Oct 28, 2021 20:43
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taqueso posted:Nothing in a car is actually lifetime, that's just code for "when it needs to be done it's going to be annoying". Lifetime of the warranty or lease.
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Oct 28, 2021 20:52
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Yeah I get lifetime isn't really lifetime which is why I had it in quotes, but I don't suspect a fuel issue as the car drives fine once it's running. No weirdness on any end of the throttle spectrum.IOwnCalculus posted:When it takes longer, are we talking about it spends more time cranking before it fires, or it doesn't start cranking as soon as you turn the key? It spends more time cranking before firing. The timing belt was changed right about 6 years ago, it's due for it in 6 months. I'm not the original owner, but I got this info from both Carfax and the Honda timing belt sticker in the engine bay.
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Oct 28, 2021 21:01
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Bank posted:Yeah I get lifetime isn't really lifetime which is why I had it in quotes, but I don't suspect a fuel issue as the car drives fine once it's running. No weirdness on any end of the throttle spectrum. It's not a fuel filter. Up thread someone suggested turning it to on without starting it for a while first. If this works you're losing fuel pressure somehow, which very well could be the drainback valve integrated into the fuel pump. It could also be other stuff, so I wouldn't go right to firing a fuel pump into the thing.
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Oct 28, 2021 21:11
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Yah all fluids are lifetime fluids if you never change them.
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Oct 29, 2021 05:09
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Sorry yeah I mentioned fuel filter as something to investigate IF you find that the pump seems to need extra time to prime. The other stuff I mentioned before that is much more likely (starter solenoid).
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Oct 29, 2021 05:32
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I had a valve cover gasket replaced . It was leaking oil onto the manifold . After driving car for 20~ miles there is still a burning oil smell. Is the normal ? The original problem was excessive oil consumption and a burning oil smell
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Oct 29, 2021 20:19
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20 miles isn't a whole lot depending on how much/where the oil was getting. Id' get worried if you can still smell it after a few more trips/heat cycles. poo poo under the hood can stink for days/weeks.
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Oct 29, 2021 20:22
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Quick update on the EV that won't turn on: I popped new batteries in the stupid "intelligent key" fobs and was eventually able to get it to turn on somehow while using the portable jumper (with the new battery). It took numerous attempts and for whatever reason it only started when my wife pressed the start button. We were able to drive it to our new place (the big battery still had ~30 miles of charge when it came on and the drive brought it down to around 18, which sounds scary but in these older Leaf models that's a solid 25% of a full charge). The very instant I pressed the ignition button to turn the car off on arrival the entire thing went dead, before even finishing the little "turning off" chime. Now I am back to square one, as despite getting a solid little drive in the 12V battery or some related component is still failing to power the car properly. On the plus side, it is now where we need it to be, so we have time to figure this thing out. IOwnCalculus posted:Asking because I've seen this one in person: you took the terminal protectors off of the new battery, right? Yep, I removed the plastic covers from the terminals. Also, no offense taken at the remedial-level advice, this is very much the level I am at on anything car-related. StormDrain posted:Oh boy do I get to say it again? Thank you for the recommendation! I ordered a tool to clean the terminals. Maybe that will help.
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Oct 29, 2021 22:51
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Your new battery is a dud.
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Oct 29, 2021 23:01
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That's a possibility but I wonder if the ground could be bad? Would it still cause those effects? Especially if using the jumper you hook the ground up to bare metal Edit: though is it my imagination or are batteries a lot worse lately? The near duopolization of manufacturers might not be great.
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Oct 29, 2021 23:08
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STR posted:Your new battery is a dud. It really sounds like that's possible. Seems unlikely but maybe it wasn't charged/had been sitting a long time? In any case, get that thing to a parts store to get tested unless you have at least a multimeter or something to give you a bit of an indication.
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Oct 29, 2021 23:08
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2005 Chevy Impala, it's whatever base model everything, engine ect. This morning I noticed a burning smell coming into the cabin of my car, pulled over immediately and popped the hood to see a little bit of smoke coming from where the firewall area is. I called a tow truck and had it dropped off at the mechanic I've done business with for 10 years now, they're usually spot on and good with repairs, fair with pricing, ect so I had no reason not to come back. Shop called and said it was the valve cover gaskets leaking oil on engine 'top to bottom', they said they checked the coolant system before and after and no coolant was leaking either time. Took them all day to knock the car out and I went and picked it up before they closed for the day and for the weekend, on the drive home I noticed the car drove sort of rough and progressively got worse on the 5 mile drive home, to the point where a few miles from the house my check engine light started flashing while driving, and solid when the car was stopped at a red light, the car was VERY rough driving, and every time I went to accelerate from being slowed or stopped it made a giant sloshing sound from the engine. Nothing *seems* to be leaking underneath the car or from what I can see with my bare eyes at looking under the hood, there's oil and coolant, and as someone who knows dick about automobiles I have no clue where to begin other than just having it towed back to them on Monday morning and see what they can do for me. I guess I'm here because I'm extremely stressed out, having dropped a lot of money on something that seems progressively worse than when I left it. Thanks in advance for any suggestions or help that can be offered. iroguebot fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Oct 30, 2021 |
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Oct 30, 2021 00:06
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STR posted:Your new battery is a dud. That was my immediate thought. I just picked it up at Costco and they seem to do a brisk business in batteries plus it had a sticker with this month/year already on it so it shouldn't have been sitting too long, but it could always be a manufacturer issue. I will see about testing it or maybe just trading it in for a new one.
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Oct 30, 2021 00:24
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iroguebot posted:2005 Chevy Impala, it's whatever base model everything, engine ect. Do you know if it's the 3.4L LA1 engine then?
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Oct 30, 2021 00:34
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Car battery manufacturing defects are a significant issue these days.
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Oct 30, 2021 00:38
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Charles posted:Do you know if it's the 3.4L LA1 engine then? I'm just seeing 3.4
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Oct 30, 2021 00:40
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Vox Nihili posted:Any EV Understanders here? Hello there fellow Leaf owner, mine's a 2015. So the first thing to know is that yes, your new battery is most likely hosed if you're still having issues. The second thing to know is that it might not have been hosed when you put the battery in the car if there's something wrong with the DC-DC converter. In certain ways the 12v battery is more important to the Leaf than its main battery (aka "traction battery"). What ways? Basically everything that isn't involved with moving the car or running its HVAC. Most of the Leaf's non-traction, non-HVAC architecture (think: doors/windows/security, infotainment, lighting, wipers, seat heaters, etc) are bog-standard Nissan parts like you'll find in other cars (most often the Sentra). Without the 12v battery in good shape you won't be able to get the car to move because the security system won't authenticate against your key and permit the car to move. Now - the 12v battery is (theoretically) maintained by a DC-DC converter that actually does run from the traction battery - so the cycle should go: you plug the car in, which charges your traction battery, which charges your 12v battery when the car is powered on. Sounds simple enough, no? Well... guess which battery powers the computer that manages charging the traction battery? Here comes my bad advice: please understand though that my Leaf has been trouble-free so I don't guarantee you won't blow yourself if you try this... it's just what I'd do: If this were my car the first thing I'd do is get the12v battery checked to see if it's actually OK. Assuming it is, I'd hook up my mains powered 12v charger and leave it plugged in for a few hours. Assuming that all goes OK, then I'd look at turning the car's main power on unplugged from wall/trickle charging (i.e. ready to drive) and then measure the voltage with a multimeter at the terminals. I'd hope to see normal charging voltage there if there's nothing wrong with the DC-DC converter. If there is something wrong with the DC-DC converter, well, you're basically starting up the 12v while it's OK, then running the car on traction DC-DC power while the 12v drains - and then when you shut the car down, the traction battery is disconnected from the DC-DC and your car turns into a doorstop with a destroyed 12v. I hope this isn't what happened to you! The 12v battery only charges via the DC-DC when the traction battery is connected - and the traction battery is only connected when the car is started (i.e. ready to drive). If you're having security "key not detected" problems, use your keyfob to press the power button (i.e. mash the power button in using the key instead of your thumb). There's an immobilizer sensor behind the button that will detect the key even if the fob battery's flat. TL,DR: You need the 12v battery to do loving anything on a Leaf (and, probably most other EVs) and that includes charging the main battery. Flat 12v: it doesn't matter about the main battery, you're going nowhere. edit: clarity sarcastx fucked around with this message at 02:40 on Oct 30, 2021 |
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Oct 30, 2021 01:20
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iroguebot posted:on the drive home I noticed the car drove sort of rough and progressively got worse on the 5 mile drive home, to the point where a few miles from the house my check engine light started flashing while driving, and solid when the car was stopped at a red light, the car was VERY rough driving, and every time I went to accelerate from being slowed or stopped it made a giant sloshing sound from the engine. My milkshake bring all the boys to the yard. (head gasket)
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Oct 30, 2021 01:22
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sarcastx posted:TL,DR: You need the 12v battery to do loving anything on a Leaf (and, probably most other EVs) and that includes charging the main battery. Flat 12v: it doesn't matter about the main battery, you're going nowhere. Same with a Prius - if the 12V battery is too low to pull in the contactor for the HV battery, you're not moving. Though with a Prius, the car will still "turn on" with a low battery, but it'll never go ready since the traction battery remains disconnected (dead 12V leaves the whole thing dead, natch).
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Oct 30, 2021 02:08
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Meanwhile, my 2003 Honda Civic had a 12V battery that was producing, like, 4V when I replaced it, and everything still ran fine 
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Oct 30, 2021 02:15
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ask James May about the importance of a 12v battery to a Tesla https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NsKwMryKqRE at least you can still open the drivers' door and the hood of a Leaf like a civilized person without needing the battery
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Oct 30, 2021 02:55
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2005 subaru outback 3.0 5EAT Has started jerking when gearchanging up Is this a "change the ATF" thing? I had it changed about a year and a half ago (doubt it was fully flushed)
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Oct 30, 2021 03:17
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sarcastx posted:ask James May about the importance of a 12v battery to a Tesla I believe this is the second video he's made about teslas running out of charge.
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Oct 30, 2021 04:01
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What's the best way to remove grease and smears from the inside of my windscreen? I'm in the UK in case that affects product recommendations. I just tried using Windowlene to wipe it but I feel it only made the problem worse.
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Oct 30, 2021 15:25
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Sir Sidney Poitier posted:What's the best way to remove grease and smears from the inside of my windscreen? I'm in the UK in case that affects product recommendations. I use Stoners invisible glass, which is great if you can get it. What's probably even more important is what you're applying/cleaning with. You really want a couple of microfiber towels. That's pretty much the current "secret" to all automotive cleaning. Rotate to a clean side/fresh towel regularly, wash/dry them on their own without any fabric softener, bleach or anything. Just regular laundry soap. They should last you a good long time.
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Oct 30, 2021 15:34
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Thanks, I have found the Invisible Glass stuff on Amazon so I've ordered that and some new microfibre cloths that I'll hide from my partner so she doesn't use them for other stuff.
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Oct 30, 2021 15:44
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Sir Sidney Poitier posted:Thanks, I have found the Invisible Glass stuff on Amazon so I've ordered that and some new microfibre cloths that I'll hide from my partner so she doesn't use them for other stuff. I'm a little obsessive about the windshield cleaning. The method I swore I got from the can but may have been from the spray bottle was this. Spray it on, wipe it off. Spray it on again, wipe it off with a new clean section of your microfiber, lint free towel. It's a pretty simple thing but it matters. It's not as effective if you just smear the dirt from the first pass around and call it good, I do two passes on the windshield every time. The other windows I'm a lot more lax about. Also I caught my wife using a microfiber towel to clean up cat pee and we had a talk. I get it.
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Oct 30, 2021 16:05
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sarcastx posted:Hello there fellow Leaf owner, mine's a 2015. Thank you!!!
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Oct 30, 2021 18:39
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Removing the driver's seat in my Corolla, I'm sure there is a torque spec, maybe in my haynes manual, but is there any need for thread locker? Like does anyone know if standard procedure for replacing a seat is "use (H/M/L? strength) thread locker and torque to (factory spec)? Or should I just crank them bitches down with my nut fucker and try not to strip or break the bolts?
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Oct 30, 2021 20:02
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wesleywillis posted:Removing the driver's seat in my Corolla, I'm sure there is a torque spec, maybe in my haynes manual, but is there any need for thread locker? There are in fact toque specs for everything I've looked up in the past. Usually around/just under 40 ft-lbs. I've never seen thread locker called for (that's what rust does automatically around here).
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Oct 30, 2021 20:07
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