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A less janky solution would be to just use a USB PCIe expansion card with the desired header connection.
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Oct 5, 2021 19:36
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mearn posted:Mostly looking for a sanity check here: I've got a PC case that has a USB Type-C port on the front panel that requires a USB 3.1 port on the motherboard but the mobo doesn't have a 3.1 port. It has one 3.0 port and two 2.0 ports. The 3.0 port is currently used for the two type-A USB ports on the front panel. I agree with Pablo Bluth, but yes the adapters should also work. USB-C is just a connector type and can handle USB 2.0 through 3.1 or whatever new ones they keep adding on. You'll just want to make sure that whatever devices you plug into the front panel USB-C connector will work well with whatever you're using for it. They're all backwards compatible but if you need a particular speed for a VR headset or whatever it's worth keeping it in mind that those usually have a USB speed they want.
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Oct 5, 2021 19:42
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That said, PCIe cards with Type-E header connections seem to be rare.... Found one (but not sure where it's actually for sale): https://www.akasa.com.tw/update.php?tpl=product/product.detail.tpl&no=181&type=Card%20Reader/Hub&type_sub=USB%20Hub&model=AK-PCCU3-06 A 3.0 pcie card with an adaptor to type-e might be easier to find and still deliver decent speeds. https://www.startech.com/en-gb/cards-adapters/pexusb3s2ei Pablo Bluth fucked around with this message at 19:56 on Oct 5, 2021 |
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Oct 5, 2021 19:51
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Meaty Ore posted:Is there a current standard/go-to controller for PC gaming? Besides keyboard and mouse, I mean. The correct answer has always been since 2005, whatever Xbox controller is in current use, no question.
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Oct 7, 2021 11:22
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Party Boat posted:Yeah big picture mode is generally very good and Steam's controller mapping is almost absurdly flexible
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Oct 7, 2021 13:03
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What is the best phone that ships with Android 8? I'm wanting to stick with that version because Android 9+ have disabled phone call recording just because courts in the EU want Android to respect local two-party consent laws, and they didn't want to code disabling the feature area by area, so everyone in a one-party consent area gets affected. I don't care about display size as long as it is 720p or greater. I'm thinking about Android Citra, which has Snapdragon 835 as minimum while Snapdragon 855 is recommended. I noticed that saveontracefone.com has a Google Pixel 2 XL so that'd be my default. However, there have been reported issues with it like OLED burn-in, purported to be corrected by a software update, and I don't know whether it is compatible with Android 8. I'm not looking for a new phone yet, just window shopping Edit: Searching "Snapdragon 855" "Android 8.0" is helping. Samsung Galaxy S9 or S9+ has a slightly better CPU (Snapdragon 845), $138 on walmart.com https://www.gsmarena.com/samsung_galaxy_s9-8966.php https://www.gsmarena.com/samsung_galaxy_s9+-8967.php The Samsung Galaxy Note 9 has a slightly bigger display by 3.8mm height or 0.15". For emulation, it is 0.17% better (single-core benchmark). This is very slightly better, but that minuscule improvement makes it 50% or $60 more expensive on Wal-Mart and eBay. Forbes notes the Note 9 is slightly more color accurate, brighter, and it has 15% more battery life. This is $199 on walmart.com. https://versus.com/en/samsung-galaxy-note-9-vs-samsung-galaxy-s9-plus https://www.forbes.com/sites/gordonkelly/2018/08/12/galaxy-note-9-vs-galaxy-s9-plus-whats-the-difference/ The LG V40 ThinQ has the same length as the Samsung Galaxy Note 9 is about $130. The LG G7 ThinQ is $100 on Amazon, but the one I found is Android 9. There's one on eBay for $90. https://www.phonearena.com/phones/compare/LG-V40-ThinQ,Samsung-Galaxy-Note9,LG-G7-ThinQ/phones/10924,10857,10779 LGV40 https://www.ebay.com/itm/185105032963 https://www.ebay.com/itm/194438872178 LG7 ThinQ https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-ThinQ-Factory-Unlocked/dp/B07KJJ4NLS?th=1 https://www.ebay.com/itm/255116344101 The LG V40 has an OLED, 5% greater screen size, and 2GB more RAM. The LG G7 has an LCD. I'll go with the LCD due to the burn-in issue https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3372494&pagenumber=895 The LG-K50 has a Snapdragon 855 processor according to one source, but 1GB less RAM than the others, and other sources say it has a different chipset. It's also harder to tell whether it comes with Android 8.0 or 8.1 or Android 9. https://www.gizmochina.com/product/lg-k50/ https://www.gsmarena.com/lg_k50-9586.php https://versus.com/en/mediatek-helio-p22-vs-qualcomm-snapdragon-845 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QwIp9oK51b0 This video indicates the Snapdragon 845 processor should be enough for 30fps gameplay, though I'd have to use the resolution hack trick for some 3DS games like Pokemon Y. so I'll go with the LG G7 ThinQ. After looking at the monitor thread, I decided it has to be LCD. Using the GSM Arena Phone Finder, the Snapdragon 855 LCD phones are at least three times more expensive on eBay. So this is the most economical way of upgrading my phone to emulate Nintendo 3DS games, aside from the call recording feature in Android 8.0. I tried testing out using an external recorder and speakerphone to record phone calls by calling a customer service phone number that I know has an automated "Dial 7 for..." answer. It worked fine. I'm not always going to be at home and have my voice recorder ready for putting right next to the phone, but I'm going to be a homebody right now anyway. galenanorth fucked around with this message at 02:38 on Oct 16, 2021 |
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Oct 11, 2021 15:12
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Maybe just record externally instead of getting owned because you are using an ancient OS.
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Oct 11, 2021 19:06
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I have an external tape recorder, so I'll practice recording phone calls with it. Next time I get a phone call, I'll see if I can get a good recording by putting it on speakerphone and laying the recorder next to it. I'm thinking about how I recorded my phone calls with my dad before he died, even if it was just talking about the grocery list or asking me to push him in his wheelchair back into the apartment after he got done smoking. I wonder how much the OS version affects the emulated fps galenanorth fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Oct 11, 2021 |
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Oct 11, 2021 19:28
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Got a couple of noobish question: I have an SSD that I pulled from my laptop and moved to my desktop, and just now looking in disk management I noticed it has some recovery partitions and things that can't be deleted: However in minitool partition wizard, they can be deleted:  So this SSD is just going to be a games drive. Is it safe to delete these various little partitions in minitool partition wizard and then extend the main data portion? Or should I just leave them alone? The drive already has a bunch of games installed if that matters. Second question is if it is dangerous to shrink the windows partition (C) to then extend a second partition? The PC I'm using came with a really weird C/D partition setup on the SSD (572/356GB) and I want to get the second partition bigger for games and the windows partition smaller just for windows and applications to appease my picky brain. If it is dangerous to do that in terms of file loss or it is going to break some recovery function, then I won't bother. (This is a different SSD to the first question above). This is what it looks like in minitool:  Thanks!
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Oct 12, 2021 01:03
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Shrimp or Shrimps posted:Got a couple of noobish question: I have an SSD that I pulled from my laptop and moved to my desktop, and just now looking in disk management I noticed it has some recovery partitions and things that can't be deleted: If you are never going to use the SSD in your laptop again (and really never going to use the laptop again period), you can delete the extra partitions. (Note, ideally you would have wiped the entire drive ahead of time and then formatted it blank if that was the case.) I would suggest backing up everything to a third drive before attempting it, and if it fails to delete/resize then just clean the whole drive with diskpart and then re-initialize it/format as a single GPT partition afterwards, then copy the data back. As for resizing C: and D:, also generally possible but probably not worth the risk in this case unless you first image the entire drive including all partitions on it so you can recover it if the whole thing explodes. You would also need a way of booting and accessing said recovery image without the main OS running, which is why I'd just live with it if it were in your shoes.
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Oct 12, 2021 02:39
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Indiana_Krom posted:If you are never going to use the SSD in your laptop again (and really never going to use the laptop again period), you can delete the extra partitions. (Note, ideally you would have wiped the entire drive ahead of time and then formatted it blank if that was the case.) I would suggest backing up everything to a third drive before attempting it, and if it fails to delete/resize then just clean the whole drive with diskpart and then re-initialize it/format as a single GPT partition afterwards, then copy the data back. Thanks! I'll give deleting the partitions for Q1 a try and back up the data first. I had formatted the drive when moving it to my desktop but I didn't think to check diskpart to see its partitions, and I must have just ended up formatting the data portion. I won't be using this SSD in the laptop anymore, I replaced it with another SSD. I don't really need the backup stock image for the laptop, setting up Windows without it went fine so it won't be missed. As for Q2, I just won't touch it then. Can't be bothered to have to image the drive nor the process of restoring it should something go wrong. E: Well, just as an anecdote, I deleted those extraneous partitions and then extended the Tosihba drive (Q1 above) and it all seems to be working fine. I didn't mess around with the C drive partition, but since I ended up doing a complete reinstall of Windows anyway today, took the opportunity to shape the drive partitions as I wanted. Now I've got a svelte 200gb Windows partition and 750gb games partition which works nicely. Shrimp or Shrimps fucked around with this message at 14:30 on Oct 14, 2021 |
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Oct 12, 2021 04:16
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My boss tasked me with quoting out a hardware refresh for our existing ESXi hosts and storage. Dell and HP quotes are far over budget for a VMware vsan setup. My coworkers think I am nuts for considering supermicro for hardware and starwind vsan for storage. Anyone been in the same or similar boat? From what I have researched there aren't a lot of horror stories about either 'tier 2' vendor, so I am a bit confused why the price tag is literally half the Dell and HP ones.
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Oct 13, 2021 21:40
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This feels like a dumb thread to put this question in, but not sure where else I could ask it other than just making a new thread - is there a Software Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread thread? I feel like I've looked a few times but not seeing it, unless it has some hosed up name. There are Windows/macOS threads that talk about software for their OS, but is there a platform-agnostic suggest-me-a-solution "I need to do X and Y, should I use software package A or package B, or is there something I've never heard of I should be using" thread?
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Oct 15, 2021 17:23
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Nah, just stick it wherever it seems most closely related to.
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Oct 15, 2021 18:11
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assuming I don't want to mess around with my PS5's internals, is it possible to just hook up an external hard drive to it? I don't expect I'll be able to run games off of it directly, but I'm guessing I can at least use that to swap games back and forth between it and the internal SSD so that I don't need to keep re-downloading games?
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Oct 20, 2021 07:44
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gradenko_2000 posted:assuming I don't want to mess around with my PS5's internals, is it possible to just hook up an external hard drive to it? I don't expect I'll be able to run games off of it directly, but I'm guessing I can at least use that to swap games back and forth between it and the internal SSD so that I don't need to keep re-downloading games? Yes you can. You can run PS4 games off it but not ps5 games. You can also swap games yeah. I’ve got a cheap 500gb SSD hooked up to mine and it works great
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Oct 20, 2021 08:14
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gradenko_2000 posted:assuming I don't want to mess around with my PS5's internals, is it possible to just hook up an external hard drive to it? I don't expect I'll be able to run games off of it directly, but I'm guessing I can at least use that to swap games back and forth between it and the internal SSD so that I don't need to keep re-downloading games? You can, but also adding an m.2 SSD does not really constitute messing with the PS5's internals if you're worried about that. Sony placed the slot in an entirely separate chamber accessible with a single screw on the outside of the case. It literally takes just a few minutes at most. It's no more complicated than adding a hard drive to the PS2's HD bay. It's designed to be a simple and unintrusive process. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQZROCPKbYQ
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Oct 20, 2021 08:31
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:You can, but also adding an m.2 SSD does not really constitute messing with the PS5's internals if you're worried about that. Sony placed the slot in an entirely separate chamber accessible with a single screw on the outside of the case. It literally takes just a few minutes at most. It's no more complicated than adding a hard drive to the PS2's HD bay. It's designed to be a simple and unintrusive process. It is not cheap though. Unless you absolutely need it for ps5 games it’s a pretty poor value imo.
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Oct 20, 2021 08:46
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MarcusSA posted:It is not cheap though. Is there some weird proprietary ssd that it takes? A 1tb sn550 is pretty affordable.
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Oct 20, 2021 16:38
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It's an NVME M2 drive but it has to hit certain speed requirements and a lot of drives either lie about their performance or can't hit the target numbers. Like the SN550 seems to not work, but the SN850 does.
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Oct 20, 2021 16:51
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I have a covered deck out back with a wall-mounted TV, and just got a fanless miniPC that sits behind the TV. It's well-shielded from the elements but I'm in the Pacific Northwest and temperatures in the winter can hover around freezing at night. Is there any particular reason to worry about excessively low temperatures? Would I be better off shutting it down when not using it, or is a standard sleep mode setup likely OK? I figure that's fine and a little research seems to confirm, but I thought I might as well ask if anyone has any horror stories. It sounds like the bigger concern is with potential condensation but I don't think that will be a problem.
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Oct 20, 2021 19:06
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Less Fat Luke posted:It's an NVME M2 drive but it has to hit certain speed requirements and a lot of drives either lie about their performance or can't hit the target numbers. Like the SN550 seems to not work, but the SN850 does. has to be pcie gen 4 i think - it doesn't benchmark so much as it checks for the version. could be mistaken tho?
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Oct 20, 2021 19:14
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rivetz posted:I have a covered deck out back with a wall-mounted TV, and just got a fanless miniPC that sits behind the TV. It's well-shielded from the elements but I'm in the Pacific Northwest and temperatures in the winter can hover around freezing at night. Is there any particular reason to worry about excessively low temperatures? Would I be better off shutting it down when not using it, or is a standard sleep mode setup likely OK? I figure that's fine and a little research seems to confirm, but I thought I might as well ask if anyone has any horror stories. It sounds like the bigger concern is with potential condensation but I don't think that will be a problem. Keeping it ON all the time is your best bet. The danger is condensation, are surfaces damp when the weather gets to dewpoint?
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Oct 20, 2021 19:26
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CoolCab posted:has to be pcie gen 4 i think - it doesn't benchmark so much as it checks for the version. could be mistaken tho? Yeah that could be why the sn550 doesn't work since it's gen 3.
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Oct 20, 2021 19:37
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PCIe Gen 4 is the only hard requirement for the PS5 SSD as it'll refuse to boot with a Gen 3 drive installed. There are several 1TB Gen 4 QLC drives that can achieve the 5,000MB/s read speeds the PS5 wants—or get close enough to it—for $125 or so. There's the Corsair MP600 Core and Mushkin Delta to name two. So it's more expensive than external USB storage, but not extremely so. You really don't need more expensive TLC drives for a PS5. Something like an SN850 is complete overkill, and you're unlikely to notice any difference in-game between it and a QLC drive. Edit: The 1TB Mushkin Delta is actually just $97 on Amazon right now: https://www.amazon.com/Mushkin-Gamma-Gen-4-0-MKNSSDGA1TB-D8/dp/B093DF7NG4?th=1&tag=p00935-20&ascsubtag=02AHY0TdRJR0u6aqpXAyJEv Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Oct 21, 2021 |
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Oct 21, 2021 01:39
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:
That is a really good deal. Last time I looked for the PS5 drives they were all close to $200 for a 1TB which is pretty ridiculous tbh.
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Oct 21, 2021 03:06
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I dunno if this is the right place to ask but I'll give it a shot. I recently picked up Path of Exile again and it made the front left part of my Acer Predator G5 laptop first sound like a swarm of bees, and then like something was literally shaking in there. I haven't been good about keeping my laptop cleaned up and dust-free, so I took it fully apart for like the first time and gave it a good clean, which it sorely needed. The dust on those fans... Anyway, I noticed that in the front left of my laptop there was...just an empty hunk of metal, as seen:   So I'm guessing PoE made my fans work soooo hard that this thing in front of them was literally shaking? What is its purpose in my laptop even? Just a placeholder for a DVD/Bluray drive? No other game I've played has given me this specific issue (including PoE itself a couple years ago) - I've heard the fans quite loud on heavy games, but nothing from this chunk of uselessness. Hopefully cleaning the fans and slight tightening of screws fixed it. Insurrectionist fucked around with this message at 12:36 on Oct 23, 2021 |
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Oct 23, 2021 12:34
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I don't know laptops super well, but I believe that's a drive bay for 2.5" storage drives.
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Oct 23, 2021 13:35
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:I don't know laptops super well, but I believe that's a drive bay for 2.5" storage drives. Alright, makes sense since I only have the SSD. I guess I can just remove it? Although I probably won't bother taking it back apart again at the moment anyway, since it seems clearing the fans fixed things (and lowered my temps by like 20 degrees Celsius lol, not that they were dangerously high before).
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Oct 23, 2021 13:41
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That’s the drive bay for a DVD drive which you don’t have apparently? It’s common for cheap laptops to share chassis designs but that’s a new one to me. You can remove it if you want but I would just leave it in. It’s probably providing some sort of rigidity to the area and having a big hole I can’t imagine would be better than just leaving it. It’s unlikely that’s the source of your rattling
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Oct 23, 2021 15:24
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Insurrectionist posted:I dunno if this is the right place to ask but I'll give it a shot. That rattling almost certainly the fan bearings if it's still there.
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Oct 23, 2021 15:26
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The reason i suspect it is because the rattling VERY obviously came from the front left of the laptop and not the back (where the fans are). Right to the left of the touchpad. If it was the fans it's weird that it was qutie a bit more audible through the chassis on the front than through the fan vents at the back. E: That said it seems gone now so whatever was rattling, the clogged-with-dust fans were definitely the culprits. Insurrectionist fucked around with this message at 17:12 on Oct 23, 2021 |
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Oct 23, 2021 17:05
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LRADIKAL posted:Maybe just record externally instead of getting owned because you are using an ancient OS. Android 8.1 oreo is still supported, last build was 23 days ago.
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Oct 28, 2021 11:10
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The last few months I've noticed my PC is really sluggish. I went through and disabled some start up programs, then deleted a couple scripts from Chrome. When I look at task manager everything seems fine: CPU, disk, all low, and even memory under 50% usage. Eventually I noticed that the games I've been buying recently list 8 megs of ram as the minimum, with 16 as recommended. I had 8, so adding another 16 is a cheap upgrade. I open the case and something doesn't look right. I can't quite put my finger on it.  Oh. Oh no. I moved in june so I assume it must have taken a bad bump then. How do I fix this? I think I need paste? I have to scrape off the old paste and put on new paste and then clip the heat sink back to the CPU. Is there more?
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Oct 28, 2021 21:36
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Facebook Aunt posted:The last few months I've noticed my PC is really sluggish. I went through and disabled some start up programs, then deleted a couple scripts from Chrome. When I look at task manager everything seems fine: CPU, disk, all low, and even memory under 50% usage. Eventually I noticed that the games I've been buying recently list 8 megs of ram as the minimum, with 16 as recommended. I had 8, so adding another 16 is a cheap upgrade. Isopropyl alcohol and tissue paper (or alcohol swabs) to remove the old paste and then yeah install the cooler with new paste. Assuming nothing physically broke that was securing your cooler.
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Oct 28, 2021 21:43
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Pretty much. Don’t scrape the paste off, it might damage the die. A tiny amount of isopropyl alchohol and a microfiber cloth should remove it safely.
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Oct 28, 2021 21:45
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Yeah you are gonna need new paste but uh you are going to have to remove the mother board from the case to re attach that fan and you might need a whole new fan if a plastic foot broke. You might be able to push the legs back through the whole without removing the board but I dunno it might flex a bit much so I’m not sure I’d do that.
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Oct 28, 2021 21:45
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Honestly while you are at it, you may as well get a better cooler than that garbage OEM one anyway. With a good cooler you may even get more consistent performance out of it.
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Oct 28, 2021 22:07
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MarcusSA posted:Yeah you are gonna need new paste but uh you are going to have to remove the mother board from the case to re attach that fan and you might need a whole new fan if a plastic foot broke. Yeah it looks like I'll have to take out the mother board. There are 4 rubber circles on the floor of the case that I assume are supposed to attach to the bracket from the other side. Does it matter what kind of paste? Looking at what amazon can deliver tomorrow there are silver, zinc and carbon. I assume they are all fine, they all are 4/5 stars, but is there a goon favorite? https://www.amazon.ca/Arctic-Silver-Thermal-Compound-Heatsink/dp/B084LBR4HQ https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Xtm50-Performance-Thermal-Paste/dp/B07V3GTMCS?th=1 https://www.amazon.ca/Grease%EF%BC%8C8-8w-Compound-Clearner-Computer-Conductive/dp/B079DRBC92?th=1 Thanks for all your help, guys.
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Oct 28, 2021 22:46
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That’s fine paste but seems a bit expensive even for Canadian money
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Oct 28, 2021 22:48
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