|
I'd look for tutorials for extruding from an image on Blender since most 3D programs allow extrusions to be raised or inlaid.
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2021 05:24
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 4, 2024 23:26 |
|
|
Aniodia posted:Probably the best place to ask this. I'm pretty bad at blender, but I know it tends to be good for editing models and meshes and crap like that. Now, I want to emboss images onto some Warmaster shields, because freehand just isn't my friend, but I'm not only just bad at blender, I'm bad at trying to find an easy tutorial for blender that can show me what I need to do. So if y'all know of a good, simple tutorial (video, written, whatever) that can show me how zazz up my shields and banners when starting with some flat images, it would be quite helpful.
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2021 05:31
|
|
|
Yeah, I was going to say, you probably just want to make a B&W picture into a height map and overlay that. There's also the manually-intense approach of tracing around it with verts and filling that, and booling that onto the surface, which is probably a bit more flexible once you've done it since you could append the solid onto anything in future.
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2021 12:48
|
|
|
There are a lot of video tutorials on youtube for doing this to marine shoulder pads, just search "Blender Shoulder Pads" and you can find several different techniques, I'm sure one of them could be used for shields.
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2021 15:39
|
|
|
There is something I find very satisfying about scaling up little miniatures into huge models. If I ever find the time to get back into mini painting I don't think I'll ever be painting smaller stuff again.
|
|
#
?
Oct 29, 2021 16:29
|
|
|
Wow, the MK3S+ arrived quick. Way faster than the Prusament filament that I ordered previously! I'll have to get crackin' on the assembly sometime soon.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 02:36
|
|
|
InternetJunky posted:There is something I find very satisfying about scaling up little miniatures into huge models. If I ever find the time to get back into mini painting I don't think I'll ever be painting smaller stuff again. Agreed. It always throws me off how much detail is buried in tiny rear end minis when. Their blown up
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 02:47
|
|
|
InternetJunky posted:There is something I find very satisfying about scaling up little miniatures into huge models. If I ever find the time to get back into mini painting I don't think I'll ever be painting smaller stuff again. I really need to do this at some point, I have more than a few STLs of minis that I think would make for cool statuettes.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 05:00
|
|
|
Army Painter rattle can metallic primer isn't working too well on PLA prints for me. Is it a common problem with prints, or do I need to try another brand?
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 00:55
|
|
|
What's the recommend glue for assembling resin miniatures? Just CA?
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 00:57
|
|
|
ImplicitAssembler posted:What's the recommend glue for assembling resin miniatures? Just CA? That's what I use for when I don't print something all in one piece. Some people do "weld" parts together with the same resin they were printed in and a UV flashlight, but I'm not brave enough to try that.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 01:02
|
|
|
ImplicitAssembler posted:What's the recommend glue for assembling resin miniatures? Just CA? ca's good, I like the gorilla glue brand a lot lately and your not paying hobby prices
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 02:17
|
|
|
Sydney Bottocks posted:That's what I use for when I don't print something all in one piece. Some people do "weld" parts together with the same resin they were printed in and a UV flashlight, but I'm not brave enough to try that. You'll be kicking yourself for waiting so long if you ever do try it. It is the perfect glue for putting miniatures together, because you have all the time in the world to make sure the pieces are lined up correctly and then 1 second in a UV light and they are welded. Even if I wasn't 3D printing I would still buy a little bottle of resin and a UV flashlight and use that as my go-to glue for minis.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 14:53
|
|
|
For presupporting STLs, what’s a good way to go? I’ve been sculpting some models for a Blood Bowl team and realize that maybe people would buy them if I don’t suck too much?  Still need to do posing and get the other 10 made, but the speed at which I can sculpt is improving a lot.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 16:43
|
|
|
Hedningen posted:For presupporting STLs, what’s a good way to go? Have you checked in with Atlas to see what they charge? Presupported stuff is finnicky, because you're going to be flooded with "YOUR SUPPORTS DON'T WORK" messages by all the monkey who don't know how to properly calibrate their printers. Going with a 3rd-part support company might fix all those potential headaches.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 17:27
|
|
|
InternetJunky posted:Cool models! For Atlas it’s $20 a “point”. A point is determined by how many supports are needed. They say standard minis are usually 1-2 points. You can rough estimate by tilting the model back 20 degrees, finding the plate at .20 microns and generating supports. Divide that by 150. It’s not really a bad deal. I would recommend sitting down with lychee and some YouTube videos and figuring it out yourself though. You never know when you need to adjust something or throw some supports on something. It’s a good skill to have. Atlas themselves have lots of good tutorials on line for that.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 18:46
|
|
|
Doctor Zero posted:For Atlas it’s $20 a “point”. A point is determined by how many supports are needed. They say standard minis are usually 1-2 points. You can rough estimate by tilting the model back 20 degrees, finding the plate at .20 microns and generating supports. Divide that by 150. I feel like I'm doing about 4 hours of support work every single day, and even I would probably use Atlas if I was going to release STL commercially. Being able to point to a 3rd party when someone complains about supports has a lot of value. Also, maybe I should think about moving into support work myself because $20-40 / mini is pretty easy money.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 19:56
|
|
|
Yeah, that’s my goal for releasing a few STLs a month, and I figured that offering presupported and unsupported options is a required standard for these kinds of things. Would not offering supported models be a negative for most of the folks here? This is a new venture for me, and figuring out how best to get this set up might be worth it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 22:09
|
|
|
Yes, not having supported models would be a deal breaker for a lot of folks.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 23:09
|
|
|
Hedningen posted:Yeah, that’s my goal for releasing a few STLs a month, and I figured that offering presupported and unsupported options is a required standard for these kinds of things. I probably wouldn't buy your models if they weren't offered in a supported version.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 23:14
|
|
|
It would depend on what the models were. Small stuff like minis I can take or leave unsupported (I usually attach them to a base in 3D Builder and print them standing upright anyways). Bigger models I'm okay with having presupported. Bonus points if you support the models in Lychee Slicer, and include the .lys scene file so I can remove or rearrange supports if desired.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2021 00:20
|
|
|
Sydney Bottocks posted:It would depend on what the models were. Small stuff like minis I can take or leave unsupported (I usually attach them to a base in 3D Builder and print them standing upright anyways). Bigger models I'm okay with having presupported. Bonus points if you support the models in Lychee Slicer, and include the .lys scene file so I can remove or rearrange supports if desired. Same. I find that auto-supporting with maybe minor adjustments (but not even that often because I'm lazy) works flawlessly for almost all the regular miniatures that I print. I only really care about pre-supported stuff for larger models.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2021 07:23
|
|
|
Hedningen posted:Yeah, that’s my goal for releasing a few STLs a month, and I figured that offering presupported and unsupported options is a required standard for these kinds of things. I see a lot of people selling non-supported minis, but I almost never get them unless they are pre-supported. The exception is bases. They are super easy to support. Takes like maybe 3 minutes, literally.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2021 13:39
|
|
|
Okay, so from this, I’ll need to presupport any miniatures. Time to build up a backlog, get a release schedule planned, and then launch something!
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2021 13:46
|
|
|
At what point do you admit you have a problem?
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2021 15:04
|
|
|
Kinda want to see that patreon list.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2021 15:16
|
|
|
InternetJunky posted:At what point do you admit you have a problem? wow. i thought i was bad. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2021 16:27
|
|
|
Anyone know of any good resources for STLs of 28mm English Civil War/Thirty Years War stuff? Thinking about getting into The Pikeman's Lament by Osprey Games, which is a skirmish game set in the 17th century. So far all I've found is a couple of figures on Thingiverse (a pikeman and a cavalryman). I'm not opposed to going back to old-school plastic and metal figures if I have to and getting some of Warlord Games' Pike & Shotte stuff, but figured I'd ask around first, just in case I could make use of all this fancy 3D printing Star Trek-style tech we have instead.  InternetJunky posted:At what point do you admit you have a problem? 
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2021 16:31
|
|
|
InternetJunky posted:At what point do you admit you have a problem? How do you have the time to upload all of that let alone take renders you maniac. I'm busy at half that
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2021 17:22
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:How do you have the time I don't 
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2021 18:00
|
|
|
How much of that is commercial printing licenses?
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2021 18:24
|
|
|
Bucnasti posted:How much of that is commercial printing licenses?
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2021 20:20
|
|
|
Does anyone make bases for Adeptus Titanicus minis? I'm not looking for the Titans themselves, just bases with scenery on them to put the Titans on, preferably that can either be printed off and used as the base itself, or glued to the standard bases.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2021 20:41
|
|
|
I've printed a ton of 30K Epic scale Marines for the bases. The plan plan is that they'll be fighting it out in mini dioramas on the bases. Naturally, I haven't actually finished anything yet.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2021 21:10
|
|
|
The future is now and it is unpainted. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2021 23:17
|
|
|
If I had a dollar for every time I forgot to put the flex plate back on the build plate before starting a print, I would... I would be a rich man.... drat it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2021 13:47
|
|
|
No. 1 Juicy Boi posted:If I had a dollar for every time I forgot to put the flex plate back on the build plate before starting a print, I would... I would be a rich man.... Haha, I've made it a part of my washing routine. Peel prints of plate, wipe down with alcohol, remount in printer.
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2021 17:51
|
|
|
I have a 3x5 card that says CHECK BUILD PLATE that I put in front of the LCD when I take things out to clean
|
|
#
?
Nov 2, 2021 18:27
|
|
|
Spray + wash + drybrush goes a long way on 3D printed terrain like this. I'm probably going to add a tiny bit of color with contrast paint, but I've got another like 30 of these to paint still.
|
|
#
?
Nov 4, 2021 17:04
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 4, 2024 23:26 |
|
|
Any suggestions for 3d printed Demonette of Slaneesh proxies that aren't trash and also won't make me feel like a creep if I play with them at my FLGS? Everything I can find is either awful or R-rated, usually both.
|
|
#
?
Nov 7, 2021 20:34
|
|
