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MrOnBicycle posted:Turns out the dude who sold me the brake line tubing was lazy and/or dumb. Decided to get some more tubing and this time double checked the art. no. before giving him it. He said, like last time, that all their tubing and sizes were there same. The website has bad information. Anyway, double checked after he gave me it and it had the wrong number. Ok, asked another staff member who then find the proper tubing. Turns out what he gave me before was just normal copper tubing, even though I had asked specifically for CuNi tubing. Wow, that's really dangerous. gently caress that guy. I bought 50 ft of CuNi brake line from fedhill and was pleased by the quality. Tubing seemed very consistent. Some of the stuff I saw on Amazon had pretty scary pics in the reviews (tubing defects). If you are in the SF Bay Area and want to borrow brake tools, I have some you can use.
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Oct 25, 2021 00:32
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ryanrs posted:Wow, that's really dangerous. gently caress that guy. Yeah, pissed off about that. Thankfully the other person actually bothered checking. Thanks for the offer, but I'm in Sweden.  MrYenko posted:This guy did a great video on everything that I’d say about brake lines specifically, and flaring tubing generally. Worth your 15 minutes. Thanks for the link. I follow this guy so I've seen it. I think I just spaced out about the tool since I automatically assumed that it would be too expensive.
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Oct 25, 2021 12:58
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Frank Dillinger posted:Current Amazon reviews talk a lot about the threads stripping off after a few uses, any issues with yours? I had this happen to mine after about three flares on my mostly defunct Corvair project. It might have been operator error, but its been a few years. Edit: It was on coated steel, no stainless or anything ridiculous. Cunifer may be easier on it. Commodore_64 fucked around with this message at 16:28 on Oct 25, 2021 |
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Oct 25, 2021 16:13
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I've been using the same war-crime-level cheap flaring tool that you all hate for years. Yes, you absolutely need to tighten it with pliers or vise grips or it will slip, and you 100% want to be flaring cunifer only, but eh.....it works for how infrequently I need to flare lines.
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Oct 25, 2021 16:36
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Suburban Dad posted:I think but might do something different where it meets the baseboard with a 45. Not sure yet. Trying to do it in the entry way from the garage and it's like a hallway that's shaped like this ___/ sort of so there would be angled cuts around that odd wall as well. Man, this thread moves fast. Sounds like a miter saw is in your future. And, just your luck, Home Depot has a Ryobi 7 1/4" cordless on sale for $99. https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-O...BSYZUJ10%3ATwY0 I have the same unit and it it absolutely up to finish carpentry work, I used it as the primary saw for my built-in cabinets below.
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Oct 25, 2021 22:49
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Any opinions of the Husky tap & die set? Are they all basically the same or are there real tiers to that sort of thing? I am quickly finding things that need to have threads fixed and I’d rather have my own set than keep borrowing. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-SAE-Metric-Ratcheting-Tap-and-Die-Set-77-Piece-HTAPDIE75PC/311182591
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Oct 25, 2021 22:54
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Advent Horizon posted:Any opinions of the Husky tap & die set? It's "fine". Advent Horizon posted:Are they all basically the same or are there real tiers to that sort of thing? Oh my....yes, so many quality differences, but you will pay dearly for them. If we're talking occasional stuff/planning ahead a Husky set is fine. If/when part of it gets damaged just know it's disposable. But yeah, you're talking about machine tools so you can spend infinite money on things that are better but maybe not that much better and probably better than you might need.
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Oct 25, 2021 23:24
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meatpimp posted:Ryobi 7 1/4" cordless All else being equal, a smaller diameter blade will give cleaner and more precise cuts, because of less blade vibration. It should not be too hard to make a 7 1/4" that makes finer cuts than a big sliding 12" that probably costs 4X.
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Oct 25, 2021 23:39
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Advent Horizon posted:Any opinions of the Husky tap & die set? Are they all basically the same or are there real tiers to that sort of thing? That looks like a pretty decent price, and I'd trust husky for something like that for thread repair and occasional use. It will definitely be way better than harbor freight, their tap and die set is hot garbage. I'm normally partial to Irwin and Vermont American but I'd toss a hundred at that set if I wasn't already a tap hoarder.
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Oct 26, 2021 00:38
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Worst case I can replace them individually with better ones later… All my Irwin stuff breaks super fast. I think I spend more on Irwin extraction bits than I would buying new parts that the bolts get stuck in.
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Oct 26, 2021 01:02
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I don't actually ever use extraction bits, it's weld stacking time when I need one. For exactly that reason.
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Oct 26, 2021 03:14
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meatpimp posted:Man, this thread moves fast. Sounds like a miter saw is in your future. And, just your luck, Home Depot has a Ryobi 7 1/4" cordless on sale for $99. https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-O...BSYZUJ10%3ATwY0 That looks very nice (your cabinets). Nice saw too since I have 3-5 batteries already kicking around and it's smallish. Thanks for the heads up! Is the included blade decent or should I pick up something better?
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Oct 26, 2021 13:51
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Oh yeah, that's another advantage of 7 1/4", you'll be ankle-deep in good blades from $5-30. Compare those prices with 12" blades that get into the triple digits. Now, I suspect the bigger blades last longer. So if you're a contractor who goes through blades regularly, there might not be a big difference. But if you're a hobbyist, maybe you don't burn through blades, but you still want a number of different blades for wood, steel, aluminum, etc. Buying that first set of blades will be so much cheaper on the small saw, more than $150 less than on a big 12". I am seriously annoyed that Milwaukee doesn't have a cheaper, smaller, non-sliding M18 miter saw, like that Ryobi. It doesn't have to be as cheap as the Ryobi, but the $450 Milwaukee slider is too much. I have been looking at the corded $120 Metabo/Hitachi instead.
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Oct 26, 2021 19:35
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 Guilty of the thread title. I got sick of my 10-year old Hitachi tools battery issues and decided to fix them. I already have a Ryobi hedge trimmer, which means I already have another battery and fast charger. All of the tools except for the ratchet were in a $200 kit, so I'm in for around $300. Not too bad. I didn't have any issues with the Hitachi tools, just the batteries. It was cheaper to buy all these than replace the four batteries I had. Oh, got this sickly-looking bag too. 
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Oct 26, 2021 23:35
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For those who may not frequent the chat thread.. AI:SS reminder We are fast approaching the deadline for sign ups! Please sign up now! It's the most fun you can have with dicks in a box! https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3981364
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Oct 27, 2021 00:07
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Broke my first band saw blade! It got kind of stuck as I cut through one of my welds (I was bored and wanted to see what it looked like in cross-section), and as I tried to work it loose, there was a distinct TWANG and I stepped back pretty quickly. I think the TPI was on the high side for the material (it broke in a substantial weld on 1/8" plate - I.e., the weld was noticeably thicker than the plate), so it probably just got stuck, then I abused it while trying to loosen it. Starrett blade, so quality probably wasn't the issue. I'm mostly happy it wasn't as scary as I'd been thinking it might be. It occurred to me that using a portaband table is basically removing all of the safety measures that might be in place with a portable band saw - I.e., if it breaks, it would break toward me. It definitely made a noise, but didn't really go anywhere - it mostly seemed to be wedged in the tool and work.
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Oct 27, 2021 17:58
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Floor jacks - I know this has probably been covered already, but my old 70's Lincoln gave up in an impressive way - I had my 42 Buick on jack stands front and rear, no wheels, I was going to put the wheels on it and needed an extra inch to get the wheels to fit, so I lifted it up off the jack stands and as I was about to take a knee to adjust the jack stands when I heard a weird sound and the car slammed back down on the jack stands in the front. there was no damage, but it scared the poo poo out of me, the arm of the jack slammed back down and rocketed the lever downwards- now the little ram part that the lever actuates is stuck in the down position and wont come back up even with some persuasion - manually lifting the arm, it stays up but seems to retract slowly, all of that without weight, but as soon as I stand on it, it collapses - the lowering valve seems to be functioning as normal. The big question is... Do I find someone to repair this beastly thing, or do I just go plop down on a HF Daytona 3 ton? It's not a collectible or cool looking jack, and I very much need a jack to function in my shop. I'll also add that this jack has served me really well for 20 years, I got this from a guy I worked for as a teen as a "let this make you some money" thing, but its functionality has never been stellar, many pumps to get it to working height, it takes a lot of pressure to actually lift things so I knew this day would come, and because of that I never, ever, not one time, trusted any part of my body under a car it lifted without jackstands and a shake test, not even for a quick tire change, this fucker probably weighs 120 pounds too - the lever/handle is.. SOLID, not hollow if thats any indication of its duty level. My only hold up is that I can feel the heavenly gaze of my depression-era generation grandfather saying "fix it lobsterboyx, its better than any of that new crap out there" - this literally just happened at 10p, so I don't even know if theres any places that could repair them, or if its something I want to get in to myself... 
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Oct 28, 2021 07:19
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I'd probably get a new jack. Without knowing hydraulic repair prices, I assume unless you "know a guy" its going to cost as much as a new jack that works better. Or you could try and rip the cylinder and/or valves apart and replace the failed seal yourself but gently caress that noise.
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Oct 28, 2021 07:35
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Yeah, I don't know anyone, a quick google says theres a shop that does repairs on old shop equipment, and there is a picture of a floor jack and pallet jack, but they weren't called by name - I am watching a ton of reviews of this one: https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...blue-56641.html and this one: https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/jacks-jack-stands/floor-jacks/3-ton-low-profile-super-duty-rapid-pump-floor-jack-yellow-63183.html and https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/jacks-jack-stands/floor-jacks/3-ton-aluminum-rapid-pump-racing-floor-jack-64544.html any of those seem to have more features than my big bruiser
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Oct 28, 2021 07:46
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I'm that jackass who will spend 25 dollars in parts to fix a 10 dollar tool he could replace outright for 100 and I say buy a new one. It's amazing how much lighter a new one will be, as you said it's not a collectible or anything, and the new one will have a warranty that means you can slap it on the counter and get a new one if it fails. Those fast-pump dual rate jacks are cool as poo poo too.
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Oct 28, 2021 08:00
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I bring you something spooky for Hallowe’en.
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Oct 28, 2021 13:42
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That was some sick bastard. Now I'm wondering how many times I used a 9 or 11mm.
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Oct 28, 2021 15:42
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C-Bangin' it 
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LobsterboyX posted:My only hold up is that I can feel the heavenly gaze of my depression-era generation grandfather saying "fix it lobsterboyx, its better than any of that new crap out there" Except in this case, he's wrong. Floor jacks have definitely gotten better over time and the HF Daytona is a great jack. My old man had a floor jack he'd been using for at least 20 years fail when I was a kid and he paid a stupid amount of money to get it rebuilt. Even after that it still wasn't as nice to use as my Daytona is now. Colostomy Bag posted:That was some sick bastard. What's also funny is that even if you're going for maximum cost optimization, 11mm and 7/16 are basically interchangeable, as are 19mm and 3/4. 10mm is used everywhere and also can't be interchanged with a fractional size at all.
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Oct 28, 2021 15:50
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LobsterboyX posted:and this one: This is the one you want, the ‘Super Duty’. That’s the one Snap-On sued them about. It’s available in OG Yellow, Orange, and Red. I got mine last month for $209 on sale. HFQPDB has the price and sales history: https://www.hfqpdb.com/best_coupon/3+TON+DAYTONA+PROFESSIONAL+STEEL+FLOOR+JACK+-+SUPER+DUTY  
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Oct 28, 2021 17:05
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One weird trick to get more lift out of your tool.
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Oct 28, 2021 17:28
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Platystemon posted:I bring you something spooky for Hallowe’en. wtf
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Oct 28, 2021 17:32
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The aluminum 3 ton from hobo freight is well worth the extra $100 if you use the thing all the time. The one I have replaced my 30 year old Craftsman aluminum floor jack, which was probably $300 at the time. https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-aluminum-rapid-pump-racing-floor-jack-64544.html
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Oct 28, 2021 17:35
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I would hold off on the HF aluminum jacks - they’ve had new ‘Daytona’ aluminum jacks teased in the ‘coming soon’ stuff for a little while now.
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Oct 28, 2021 17:45
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Trip report on the brake tool discussed earlier (bar one) … so it’s basically like using a cheat code compared to the other one. I pumped the brakes a fair bit and it seems like there are no hints of a leak. I really hope this is the last of that job now and it’ll pass inspection.
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Oct 28, 2021 17:55
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Colostomy Bag posted:That was some sick bastard. I can't remember the last time I used a 9 outside the range, but 11 I can think of... Exactly two examples. GM/Jeep style intermediate steering shaft pinch bolts, and XJ/MJ/ZJ Aisin transmission crankshaft position sensor mounting bolts. That's like, it. Why the gently caress does 11mm exist? E: on the list of sizes that exist and shouldn't, gently caress GM and their 7mm fascination. gently caress you. gently caress you gently caress you gently caress you. I would trade that for 8mm or 1/4" in a second. And gimme a drat 7mm socket not a 9mm, tool companies.
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Oct 28, 2021 20:10
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kastein posted:I can't remember the last time I used a 9 outside the range, but 11 I can think of... Exactly two examples. 11mm gets used in motorcycles for bolts that used to be 12mm but got sized down so that manufacturers could save weight. So... like 43 bolts worldwide.
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Oct 28, 2021 21:12
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builds character posted:11mm gets used in motorcycles for bolts that used to be 12mm but got sized down so that manufacturers could save weight. So... like 43 bolts worldwide. Also brake bleeder screws. Whenever I get one that’s super tight, out comes Mr. 11mm
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Oct 29, 2021 03:53
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I feel like I used my 11mm a lot on my FIAT, but everything about that car was wrong
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Oct 29, 2021 04:06
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ive used 9mm on my bicycle, but it was a wrench. seat post pinch bolt, maybe? never needed a socket, tho
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Oct 29, 2021 05:43
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I always seem to lack the very size I require. Never fails.
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Oct 29, 2021 16:42
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Here's where I plug Ridgid crescent wrenches. Well-machined, tight mechanisms.
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Oct 29, 2021 17:15
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Ditto on the Kobalt ratchet set. It was cheap when I bought it and has been my primary set of tools since I started wrenching 9 years ago. It wasn't until I'd finally felt how smooth a Snap-on ratchet's mechanism was this year to make me think of upgrading Although I do need a new set of ratcheting box end wrenches and regular combo wrenches, any particular recommendations? I abused my ratcheting ones pretty badly and only have stubby combo wrenches, hence the abuse of the ratcheting ones
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Oct 29, 2021 17:38
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Combos, Craftsman is nice, Pittsburgh is fine. Ratcheting, I like the Gearwrench line, unless you want to spring for the Jokers - they're REALLY nice, but they're also really expensive.
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Oct 29, 2021 18:26
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Milwaukee has been expanding their hand tool lineup with wrenches and ratchets and similar stuff. I like the finish on their breaker bar. I'm curious if their other hand tools are good, too.
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Oct 29, 2021 19:43
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Adam Savage likes their sockets. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gdPODQSjgQs
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Oct 29, 2021 19:52
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