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On the 2006 Subaru Outback that we recently got: Wired in a dashcam   Drained and refilled: oil, automatic transmission, front and rear differentials Replaced the spark plugs. 1 and 4 looked a touch rough:   New calipers, pads, and rotors. Tried painting the calipers and brackets. I'm sure it will last about 50 miles.   One of the rear brackets' bolts was worn so I needed to resort to some violence.   The front LCA was fairly recently replaced, but I think my next step is replace the rear control arms, and possibly new struts all around.
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Oct 26, 2021 18:28
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I was wearing 60923 (pink with yellow label) (3M P100 Respirator Cartridge/Filter 60923, Helps Protect Against Organic Vapors, Acid Gases and Particulates). Should I be wearing 60921 (pink with black label) (3M P100 Respirator Cartridge/Filter 60921, 1 Pair, Helps Protect Against Organic Vapors and Particulates)?
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Oct 26, 2021 19:03
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PBCrunch posted:I was sick as hell this weekend, possibly from doing a lot of spray painting in my garage. I was wearing a 3M mask with the charcoal filters, but maybe that wasn't enough. Anyway. There’s a trim piece on out outback that had some sort of black plastic coating on it that has shrunk and is in the process of detaching it sled from the stainless. I was planning on doing just what you did to see if I could avoid removing and painting it. Looks like it’ll work and not look terrible!
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Oct 26, 2021 21:29
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I bought a new house to park my car in, much work coming in the future! (the flags are from the PO....) The garage is about 25' x 45'. For some stupid reason it was built sideways, so you drive into the narrow end... I guess it leaves me room for a massive workshop and two car parking.
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Oct 27, 2021 23:42
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PBCrunch posted:I was wearing 60923 (pink with yellow label) (3M P100 Respirator Cartridge/Filter 60923, Helps Protect Against Organic Vapors, Acid Gases and Particulates). Should I be wearing 60921 (pink with black label) (3M P100 Respirator Cartridge/Filter 60921, 1 Pair, Helps Protect Against Organic Vapors and Particulates)? Could you smell the paint / vapors while you were working with it on?
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Oct 28, 2021 00:04
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chrisgt posted:I bought a new house to park my car in, much work coming in the future! (the flags are from the PO....) No steppu on me
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Oct 28, 2021 00:38
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chrisgt posted:I bought a new house to park my car in, much work coming in the future! (the flags are from the PO....) If you bought it, why are they still there? No ladder?
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Oct 28, 2021 01:15
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No. 6 posted:If you bought it, why are they still there? No ladder? I signed papers at the bank, drove to the house, parked in the garage, and took a picture. All things in good time.
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Oct 28, 2021 01:56
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chrisgt posted:The garage is about 25' x 45'. Honestly this would be my preference in that general size range. Room for a whole fab shop at the back, lift in one bay, maybe an 8' door thrown in the back side someday for big stuff access when the project cars are both dead at the front 
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Oct 28, 2021 02:49
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Hypnolobster posted:Honestly this would be my preference in that general size range. Room for a whole fab shop at the back, lift in one bay, maybe an 8' door thrown in the back side someday for big stuff access when the project cars are both dead at the front There's no access to the back or either side, sadly. But a lift is planned. I'll have to change one of the sliding doors to a rolling door since a lift won't clear the tracks. Otherwise, i see no reason I can't install one. The garage even has a 100 amp sub-panel.
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Oct 28, 2021 13:26
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honda whisperer posted:Could you smell the paint / vapors while you were working with it on? No I did not smell vapors while spraying. My sinuses were a little plugged up when I started though. I'm genuinely not sure if I am germ sick or chemical sick. I'm going to get a C19 test this afternoon.
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Oct 28, 2021 15:19
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Dragged my ancient subwoofer and amp out of storage. Pulled the fuses on the amp so I wouldn't get a big honkin spark when connecting the power cable. One fuse broke. Figures. A trip to Advance later and I have new fuses (it has two 30A fuses). P71 Crown Vics have a (fused, but something like 50 amps?) battery feed in the trunk, in a plastic enclosure. Enclosure shattered when I tried to remove the hold-down bolt for the terminal. Figures. The + connection is bolted together with the amp wire now, shoved back in what's left of the box, and wrapped in a half roll of electrical tape for now. It's fused under the hood, inside what's left of the plastic enclosure, with all the metal bits inside the plastic enclosure also wrapped up, so it should be fine tempermanantly. While pulling the amp turn on wire and RCA cables, I found a good chunk of abandoned wiring - none of it actually in the wiring channel Ford provides, some of it still powered (snap crackle pop, popped a couple of fuses, including the one for the PCM  why was something wired to that circuit?!). Found an upfitter plug under the "carpet" (rubber floor covering in this case) that had vampire taps all over the wires, but nothing actually in the plug.  I'll have to clean that up later - for now I've cut the wires that were added on and taped them off, I'll use liquid electrical tape when I remove the taps. I need to figure out what's tapped into the PCM circuit, and where; that's not a circuit I want to be chasing problems on. Lightbar and siren wiring was still in the B pillar and head liner, now removed. Found a flasher module still wired up for the rear lights, I need to figure out how it's spliced in and how to return the wiring to stock (because of course they didn't use any of the factory provided plugs, it's all cut and tape or cut and crimp). 
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Oct 31, 2021 01:36
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Installed a HUD in my base model C6. To be honest, it wasn't bad except you have to cut the AC duct in half. I also hosed myself out of $100. I bought a premade HUD harness on ebay. Turns out, on the corvette forums, there is a complete schematic with part numbers for the connectors and pins. I could've made a harness for like, $15. Also, the harness I received was too short, so I ended up having to rebuild it anyway. All in all though, got the projector mounted in the dash, got the new control buttons in place of the blanks, and everything works. Bonus. I also took my new ZR1 replica wheels off and cleaned them up real well. I ceramic coated them, and then put them back on the car. Hope that keeps them looking good. I did find out that my drag radials on the 17x11s with 30 psi of air in them is apparently over 3% larger diameter than the front wheel/tire combo because it throws all the abs/traction control errors. Shouldn't be too big an issue, but I'm hoping if I let air out, it shouldn't be throw codes.
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Oct 31, 2021 02:09
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Took the driver seat out of my Corolla to get better and more comfortable access to the underneath of my dash board to try and track down the cause of the squeaky clutch pedal. I was going to take the pedal right off, but it seemed like quite a bit more of a pain than I thought. I disconnected the pedal from the Master cylinder pushrod, and it still squeaked. Which at least eliminated that as a culprit. There was some sort of other spring at the top of the pedal lever that seemed to hold the pedal in place. When I would push the pedal down the spring would over centre and hold the pedal against the floor. So another possible culprit for the squeak. The last time I hosed with this several weeks ago, I sprayed a bunch of dry graphite lube on the moving parts, but had no idea about the over centering spring up top of the pedal. I figured it was time to try something different, so I sprayed some silicone lube on the pivot point, and still no loving change. Finally decided to try the spring at the top. No room to do anything though, let alone see where I was spraying poo poo. Even getting the can itself in to place was hard. Luckily I'm Canadian Automotive SUPER-HACKER! I took a couple of the small red tubes from various aerosol products (brake cleaner etc..) Got some small diameter heat shrink and shrank that poo poo over the tube. Sure you could use tape, but thats lame as hell, and no match for AUTOMOTIVE SUPER-HACKER SKILLS! Just make sure you don't use too much heat or you'll melt the tubes (ask me how I figured that one out). Anyway, now that I had a longer tube, I could point it up and through a couple small holes where the lube might have gotten in to useful spots. After giving whatever seemed like it might need it, a generous coating of lube, I worked the pedal a few times and heard no more squeaking. SUCCESS!! I put everything back together, bolted the driver seat back down and called it a day. Thank gently caress I finally got off my lazy rear end to fix this.
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Oct 31, 2021 02:54
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I don’t know how often the Del Sol will actually be driven this winter, but I put the winter wheels and tires on it today. The rear tires on the Rota wheels need to be looked at anyway, they are both leaking slowly. 
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Oct 31, 2021 21:19
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Not done yet, but it was time to change the dented up fender on the Cayenne (trash truck back into it): But nothing can be easy, and there was a ton of rot at the bottom corner due to a drain in the rocker panel being clogged.  Pounded out a patch to fit:  POR'd behind, welded the patch on, seam selaed:  Need to POR it when the seam sealer is dry enough to be coated, hang the new fender to locate where the rivnut needs to go to hold the bottom in place and reassemble.
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Oct 31, 2021 21:36
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Went out to the garage and scuffed down my new Zr1 body kit. Hopefully next weekend I should get it painted. My supercharger should be here Thursday, and the headers should ship in another week.
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Oct 31, 2021 23:28
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Seriously gently caress whoever the last gorilla was that changed the oil in this Mini Had to get ye olde bolt extractor out  Replaced with a quick-drain valve  Oh I also reorganized the wheel stacks in the garage. 
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Nov 1, 2021 18:50
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Did a crappy rattle can paint job on the top and got it installed for the winter. loving thing weighs about 500 pounds. Mustache Ride fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Nov 2, 2021 |
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Nov 2, 2021 22:20
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Mustache Ride posted:Did a crappy rattle can paint job on the top and got it installed for the winter. Those wheels are so awesome, I love them.
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Nov 2, 2021 23:19
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I hosed up trying to wet sand some bird poo poo damage out.  Trying to figure out if I should use some Duplicolor Exact Match and SprayMax 2K clear or use "real" auto paint and mix-it-yourself clear from an HVLP gun. I have a garage and a pretty big compressor. I also have a Lexus SC400 the exact same color with failed clear on its enormous hood.
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Nov 2, 2021 23:37
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I made a contraption out of pressure-treated 2x4s to help stop things from sliding around in the back of my truck. The boards are half-lapped together and just friction fit so I can take it apart without tools should the need arise. Details:   It should definitely help with bags of sand in the winter. It already helped in dragging my mom's lawn mower over to bag up leaves. My curb-find mower doesn't have a bag.
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Nov 3, 2021 19:05
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Neat! You can do the same thing with shower rods if you need it to be lightweight, btw.
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Nov 3, 2021 19:16
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PBCrunch posted:I hosed up trying to wet sand some bird poo poo damage out. no time to learn how to paint like the present. Get the good stuff.
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Nov 4, 2021 04:48
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 Supercharger has arrived. Headers should be here Monday. Guess I know what's happening next weekend.
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Nov 5, 2021 20:17
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Installed this exhaust I’ve had sitting around for the past five years  Replacing this stock unit  Resulting in this 
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Nov 6, 2021 17:43
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Friend's Chevy Cruze... again. She was quoted nearly $2500 to fix a coolant leak. They wanted to do the water pump, timing chains, timing cover itself, the timing cover seal, oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket (it just got a new valve cover and gasket a few months ago), spark plugs (got those about 10k ago, AC Delco Iridiums), brake fluid flush. None of that would have fixed the main coolant leak - the thermostat housing had warped; I assume from when it overheated from the water outlet letting go, but it's a known failure point on these engines. Out of everything they quoted, the only thing it needs is a brake fluid flush (and the valve cover needed to be snugged down a bit; I was too conservative with tightening it thanks to it being plastic, so there was a good bit of oil everywhere). $45 for a new OEM thermostat + housing, $20 for a gallon of Prestone Dexshit, plus a hose clamp. Did the passenger side window regulator as well. I forget how much that was (it's been sitting here for almost 3 months or so; broke my wrist when we had planned to do it, then our work schedules never lined up). gently caress whoever designed the cooling system on this car. Replaced the water outlet (that literally exploded one day), the thermostat + housing, it's known for the water pump leaking (it's not... yet), also known for the heater core nipples to break off (not even gonna sneeze near them). It's still leaking coolant from somewhere (I think the overflow hose to the surge tank) - I can smell it, but can't find it, and it's been smelling like coolant for over a year now. This is the 2nd time that window regulator has been replaced too (first time by me; whoever did it last time didn't even bother snugging down the bolts that hold the glass to it) Feels like it's down on power to me, but it's not blowing smoke/steam out of the exhaust, no oil/coolant mixtapes (yet), and the only code is good ol' P0420... I'm also used to the ecoboost Transit I drive for work, so my butt dyno is a bit skewed now... a cargo van has no right to be that quick.  Cruze is randomly throwing "AC Off Due to High Engine Temp" warnings on the DIC and ramping the engine fan up to 100%, coupled with the temp gauge nosediving all the way to cold. I have a feeling I should just go ahead and order a new coolant temp sensor now.. not sure if it was damaged by the engine overheating a couple of times or if it's just coincidence. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Nov 6, 2021 |
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Nov 6, 2021 20:51
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Might want to burp the cooling system just to be sure. Those cars are not fast.
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Nov 6, 2021 22:18
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Resulting in this Hell yeah! Today I got the lovely Focus off the jack stands after almost knocking it over twice which was extremely sketchy. Still learning the proper jack and jackstand points for this car. While looking into fuel issues today I actually managed to find the For Sale post from the PO of this car on the Facebook SVT group. Their post confirmed that it was in a front end collision back in ~2016 and has been passed now to two new folks trying to get it to start and stay running. I'm also looking forward to about a grand in back registration but we'll see about that. Everything looks good at this point - it cranks but doesn't start, it feels like it catches in the first ~1-2 seconds but then stops completely and just cranks. Signs point to the fuel pressure sensor and I have one of the last new OEM units on order. Parts bought and swapped thus far: Ignition coil. Spark plugs. Spark wires. Fuel pump. Fuel filter. T-Bolt battery wire clamps. All new relays in the fuse box. New dual-stage intake actuator clip. New brake booster vacuum line. Hard vacuum lines for the fuel pressure sensor / intake manifold. The PO (dude who bought it from facebook and then sold to me) apparently replaced: Timing belt/idle tensioner. New windshield, front bumper, probably a few things I haven't discovered yet. The inertia cutoff switch in the passenger footwell doesn't seem like a problem, it should cutoff the fuel pump completely but it still turns on and sends fuel. I had my dad hold it down as a test. I suppose I could bypass it but I feel that's not the issue.  Only picture I took today, of the new copper hard lines for the intake manifold vacuum.
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Nov 7, 2021 03:07
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Suburban Dad posted:Might want to burp the cooling system just to be sure. Those cars are not fast. I did. It pops that warning even on a stone cold start occasionally (car sitting 24+ hours). They're not quick, but I thought I remembered it being a little peppier once the turbo spooled up. Don't seem to really feel the turbo now.
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Nov 7, 2021 03:37
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STR posted:They're not quick, but I thought I remembered it being a little peppier once the turbo spooled up. Don't seem to really feel the turbo now.
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Nov 7, 2021 03:47
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 Got my body kit scuffed and primered. Gotta get some activator for my base coat, hoping to get it painted and installed next weekend.
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Nov 7, 2021 04:18
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Coolnezzz posted:Hell yeah! Being a svt focus with probably a decent amount of mileage on it.. have you confirmed the timing belt is completely intact? They can break teeth off the belt and skip time and still spin the cams but never start. That's like the #1 thing with them, is a timing belt replacement at 80k or ~8 years. Also side note that Ford discontinued the SVT-specific tensioner. There's a guy (from that facebook group) that sells a Litens (oem) brand tensioner with the correct spring installed. e: nevermind, went and looked at your posts in the hot hatch thread. Verifying fuel pressure would definitely be a good move. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 06:16 on Nov 7, 2021 |
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Nov 7, 2021 06:13
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No photos but I got around to ordering husky floor mats, jumper cables, and cigarette USB adapters for the Prius this week. We have weather techs in the 4 runner so I was curious to see the difference. Weather techs are definitely nicer but the husky are nice for the price. Driving around i can tell it needs a sway bushing or end link. Getting a knock in the driver front wheel.
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Nov 7, 2021 08:29
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Krakkles posted:Yeah, turbo spool should be pretty noticeable. I drove a bunch of those as rentals across various years - they’re not fast, but the effect of the turbo was noticeable. It's a tiny engine and turbo with <140 hp. Same engine in the Sonic I had for a bit and mine was lighter than a Cruze. It's sized such that I could barely feel it kick in...Unless at altitude and your have even less power down low, then it's more apparent. The later gen is a big improvement but it's still not speedy. Also STR have you pulled codes? If it's doing that at start up you should have plenty of DTCs to help diagnose.
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Nov 7, 2021 17:03
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Preview of upcoming post: Some engineer in Germany is looking at the vibration analysis, and while the worst case levels would easily destroy the very part it's holding, he takes a fat bong rip and says "we should loctite the harddrive screws." Ranzear fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Nov 7, 2021 |
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Nov 7, 2021 22:05
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Bit of a cross post from my own thread but drat I got a lot done and felt good to push myself back into it after a few weeks off. On the Galaxie, I finally committed to putting brake fluid in, and the power steering fluid. I fabricated a kick down rod that I've been missing (which now that I think about it almost certainly means I'll find the original somewhere and I just didn't recognize it.) I put my shifter and drivers seat back in, and the back wheels are on the ground. Now that I have my wheels and tires, I can have them mounted and get the car moving! I spent a lot of time putting off little jobs and I really enjoyed the satisfaction of actually getting them done. It wasn't even finding motivation, it was more like having the determination to push through them.
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Nov 8, 2021 00:41
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Suburban Dad posted:It's a tiny engine and turbo with <140 hp. Same engine in the Sonic I had for a bit and mine was lighter than a Cruze. It's sized such that I could barely feel it kick in...Unless at altitude and your have even less power down low, then it's more apparent. Yeah, it only had 2 codes, P0420 and P0128 (P0128 was pending). P0420 comes back pretty quickly (also shows as a historic code after clearing codes). P0128 hasn't come back, but it has a new thermostat (and it's very possible that code was pending from not having enough coolant to submerge the coolant temp sensor a few times). It only started doing this a bit over a week ago, and it'd mostly been parked for a week due to it hemorrhaging coolant. It's seeing regular driving now; P0420 came back again, but no other codes, even pending (yet). I've driven a handful of these cars, and more importantly, driven this one plenty of times (in multiple states of the US, even - MS, TN, and TX, over about 3 years) - and the turbo is still somewhat noticeable on them around 2500-3000. I'll have to look at manifold pressures and fuel trims next time I have my hands on it. I did notice a bunch of oil caked around the throttle body inlet where the intake meets it, so (a) that screams boost leak and (b) that screams dying turbo or the infamous intake manifold issue (which pressurizes the crankcase and can force oil past the turbo seals). I'm pretty familiar with this particular Cruze, and it's basically doing what every Cruze does around 100-125k (falling apart).
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Nov 8, 2021 02:52
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Hypnolobster posted:Being a svt focus with probably a decent amount of mileage on it.. have you confirmed the timing belt is completely intact? They can break teeth off the belt and skip time and still spin the cams but never start. That's like the #1 thing with them, is a timing belt replacement at 80k or ~8 years. Thanks for the reply! It certainly looks like the timing belt is good/new but I really have no experience with timing myself. I don't expect it would have started and run for the minute or two, twice, if timing was jacked up, but I think it's still a possible issue as I haven't confirmed it to be good yet. I'm currently trying to find a code reader than can read fuel pressure in real time and it mostly looks like I need an ancient, unlocked SCT X2/3, which was the tuner of choice at the time, or a very early/non-firmware updated X4. Any early 2000s Ford experts here know of a different/modern OBD scanner that can read the Ford specific PIDs? So far I can't find anything.
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Nov 8, 2021 03:18
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FORScan Lite on Android with a generic OBD2 Bluetooth dongle MIGHT pull it. It does on my 07 Crown VIc.
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Nov 8, 2021 03:57
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