|
wesleywillis posted:Removing the driver's seat in my Corolla, I'm sure there is a torque spec, maybe in my haynes manual, but is there any need for thread locker? lol, I am curious what answers you get for this, I wonder about that too. It just strains my imagination to assume that a corner shop doing trim work or whatever would bother to look up torque spec for a driver's seat they removed / replaced, rather than simply torque it down to gutentight. It's always a concern I have when I get wheels taken off for rotation or whatever, how do I know if they are actually using a torque wrench and looking up the spec for my model? I have to imagine they simply don't, what's the over/under or rough percentage of shops that actually would? I've never worked in a shop so I'm genuinely curious if anyone knows.
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 20:08
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 01:12 |
|
|
In a place where rust is not a thing, factory spec + thread locker is how I do it.Inner Light posted:lol, I am curious what answers you get for this, I wonder about that too. It just strains my imagination to assume that a corner shop doing trim work or whatever would bother to look up torque spec for a driver's seat they removed / replaced, rather than simply torque it down to gutentight. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 20:25 on Oct 30, 2021 |
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 20:23
|
|
|
Most tire shops I've been to have you watch someone check all the wheel nuts/bolts torques when you pick your car up.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 20:27
|
|
|
I mean it's just a seat. Worst case, you notice in 500 miles that it starts to wobble a bit so you crank it down some more. I don't know that I'd even bother with the Loctite.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 20:30
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:I mean it's just a seat. Worst case, you notice in 500 miles that it starts to wobble a bit so you crank it down some more. I don't know that I'd even bother with the Loctite. That's the worst case you can come up with? For a safety device?
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 20:34
|
|
|
spankmeister posted:Most tire shops I've been to have you watch someone check all the wheel nuts/bolts torques when you pick your car up. How about dealerships, if I pay a F-you rate can I at least trust they won't be careless about this?
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 20:44
|
|
|
Motronic posted:That's the worst case you can come up with? For a safety device? Yes. Is the seat only held in with one bolt? Do you think all of them will loosen up and fall out simultaneously one day? This isn't a wheel lug or a camshaft sprocket where a loose bolt means rapid disaster. If the seat starts to loosen up, he'll notice it well before it becomes relevant to safety. I replaced a seat in my car like five years ago using the Gutentight Procedure and it's fine. I mean no wait the worst case is all the bolts shear off simultaneously from fatigue and the seat goes flying through the windshield at the same moment the car is pointed at a bus full of nuns as a petroleum tanker tries to beat the red light through the same intersection. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 20:49 on Oct 30, 2021 |
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 20:46
|
|
|
My brain is having trouble wrapping itself around this logically, should I be fastening a sway bar to a strut with the suspension compressed or relaxed? It will go on easily either way. In the past I've had end links that mount to the control arm rather than the strut body and it has been pretty obviously relaxed because otherwise good luck getting the bar into the right position.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 20:47
|
|
|
Inner Light posted:lol, I am curious what answers you get for this, I wonder about that too. It just strains my imagination to assume that a corner shop doing trim work or whatever would bother to look up torque spec for a driver's seat they removed / replaced, rather than simply torque it down to gutentight. To be honest, unless YOU are very diligent about bringing your vehicle back to have the wheels re-torqued after 100 miles or whatever, or the shop explicitly specifies that you should come back after X number of miles, I'd guess most shops are going to just crank'em down so they ain't going to come off of there. They might even use the torque sticks so that they don't over tighten them too much. My own experiences for wheels anyway is thus: On my old Mazda I had the clutch changed and one day not too long after I had to take off a front wheel for whatever reason, The fuckin lugnuts were on there so tight, I bent the tire iron. I don't know how the studs themselves didn't snap, when they were being tightened down, but I ended up having to get a breaker bar, and a four foot drill rod to go over the bar, and stand on it to loosen all 8 nuts (four on both sides) I'm over 200 pounds, so thats a lot of torque on those things. I guess thats better than having a wheel fall off on the highway, but if I had to change a tire at the side of the road I wouldn't have been able to. More recently, I've had an electric impact capable of 300+ftlbs that couldn't budge lug nuts after having work done to the car. I don't expect to have problems now that I have my nutfucker, but who knows. Krakkles posted:In a place where rust is not a thing, factory spec + thread locker is how I do it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 20:51
|
|
|
i looked around but is there any hot Tips thread on finding a mechanic. i have become a Car Owner of a 2001 camry a few years ago that was driven by a grandma (so pretty low milage) and while ive gotten through the pandemic with a couple of oil & winter/all season tier changes at a oil change place, and replacing an air filter and break fluid myself i think i should have someone with more knowledge see if the car is okay, mainly because of the imminent babby passenger we'll have soon the mechanics nearby seem to all have good reviews on google and that's about the extent of what i can discern of what is good and bad.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 20:53
|
|
|
Word of mouth from someone you trust is about the only way to be sure. And when you do find a good mechanic, like a good barber, you are more faithful to them than a stoic fisherman's wife on the balcony, watching the sea every day for her husband's return
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 21:01
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:My brain is having trouble wrapping itself around this logically, should I be fastening a sway bar to a strut with the suspension compressed or relaxed? It will go on easily either way. In the past I've had end links that mount to the control arm rather than the strut body and it has been pretty obviously relaxed because otherwise good luck getting the bar into the right position. Maybe I'm missing something but what difference would it make? The bar is going to pivot the same distance.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 21:04
|
|
C-Bangin' it 
|
Sagebrush posted:Yes. Is the seat only held in with one bolt? Do you think all of them will loosen up and fall out simultaneously one day? I'm not saying you have to go overboard and use a perfectly calibrated torque wrench under laboratory conditions, but "the worst that can happen is is loosens up" (and hopefully is noticed before it really is just 4 loose bolts holding the seat in, which is the only scenarios in which it's likely to be noticed) is very flippant in regards to a safety device. You should try to do better than this.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 21:07
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:And when you do find a good mechanic, like a good barber, you are more faithful to them than a stoic fisherman's wife on the balcony, watching the sea every day for her husband's return Without a single question this is important. Finding one, though, if you know any car people ask them who they go to. I don't trust online reviews after I had a terrible experience with the #1 rated Subaru mechanic in my area. And when I say car people I don't mean someone who spent a house down payment on a high-trim vehicle, I mean the person who has an unusual car (preferably of the same make but that's not essential) that does a lot of their own work, maybe they are/were a mechanic so they have high standards and a cynical view towards other mechanics. I've got a friend in the area who used to be a mechanic and has an old Land Cruiser so I just asked him his recommendation when I first needed a mechanic here. There's a lot of those people here, so if you are willing to mention the general area you live someone might have a suggestion. Colostomy Bag posted:Maybe I'm missing something but what difference would it make? The bar is going to pivot the same distance. Maybe you're right? I was thinking of it as if the link is put in at ride height it will be sitting at no preload on the spring whereas if the link is put in without tension on the suspension then when the car goes on the ground it will preload the sway bar, which should make some level of difference in the behavior of the spring under changing load? But my brain seriously hasn't been working the past couple days. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Oct 30, 2021 |
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 21:12
|
|
|
Dreylad posted:i looked around but is there any hot Tips thread on finding a mechanic. i have become a Car Owner of a 2001 camry a few years ago that was driven by a grandma (so pretty low milage) and while ive gotten through the pandemic with a couple of oil & winter/all season tier changes at a oil change place, and replacing an air filter and break fluid myself i think i should have someone with more knowledge see if the car is okay, mainly because of the imminent babby passenger we'll have soon First off congratulations on the babby. And yes it's really tough to find a good Mechanic nowadays. Google Reviews is full of questionable reviews (or reviews from business owners friends and family). So I find that the best things to look out for are:
melon cat fucked around with this message at 06:34 on Jan 10, 2024 |
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 21:14
|
|
|
melon cat posted:
This is nice but I've also had this happen with places where they in hindsight were either fleecing me because I didn't know better or they were just dead wrong and I ended up fixing the problem making a change i thought was unrelated. That's why I suggested asking someone who spends their weekends busting up their knuckles and swearing at their car (a love-hate relationship is important because it means that stuff breaks enough for them to know the car well), they know the state of the car well enough to tell when a mechanic is lying/wrong.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 21:23
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:This is nice but I've also had this happen with places where they in hindsight were either fleecing me because I didn't know better or they were just dead wrong and I ended up fixing the problem making a change i thought was unrelated. That's why I suggested asking someone who spends their weekends busting up their knuckles and swearing at their car (a love-hate relationship is important because it means that stuff breaks enough for them to know the car well), they know the state of the car well enough to tell when a mechanic is lying/wrong. That's a good way to go about doing it, too. A lot of people say "word of mouth" but you've got to consider who that "mouth" is. melon cat fucked around with this message at 06:34 on Jan 10, 2024 |
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 21:25
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:Maybe you're right? I was thinking of it as if the link is put in at ride height it will be sitting at no preload on the spring whereas if the link is put in without tension on the suspension then when the car goes on the ground it will preload the sway bar, which should make some level of difference in the behavior of the spring under changing load? But my brain seriously hasn't been working the past couple days. I've yet to see it suggested for sway bar link replacement. I can't imagine it'd be very practical in most cases, especially considering you've also got to counter-hold the stud and try to wedge in a torque wrench with a crowfoot wrench (if you're following the procedure to the letter like that).
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 21:26
|
|
|
In this case the mounting point is adjustable so I could put it in easily either way, the question is just which one is better. I'm also probably not going to use a torque wrench, the spec is 28-31ftlb so I'll probably just do a quick zap to snug with my weak impact. Before I was working from a FSM I never realized how low torque specs were on most things. Having a weak impact is actually pretty great, this one that I have is enough to go a little above spec on lug nuts while easily getting them off when a little above spec, so I only have to get the breaker bar or nutfucker impact when I've taken it to a shop. It's basically exactly as powerful as I'd want an "electric ratchet" to be. It sounds like you're saying to install it with the suspension loose, is that right? I've got no problem doing it that way, I just wasn't sure if there was a right way and a wrong way.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 21:40
|
|
|
If you're corner balancing a car you're setting your (adjustable) sway bar links to be neutral with your fuel load and driver while the car is on the ground. It sounds like your sway bar mounts are not adjustable so you just install them however is easiest and they do what they do.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 21:44
|
|
|
Motronic FTW. ^
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 21:56
|
|
|
Okay. I was aware that corner balancing was a thing but not really what it entails. I thought it had to do with adjusting the damping on coilovers or something. The front mounting point adjusts up and down, the end links aren't adjustable, and the rear is fixed in place so it can't really be messed with. Adjustable ones exist but I'm not paying like $200 or whatever they are right now for something that is decidedly not a race car. I'll do the front with the car on the ground since that's apparently more right and also that way I don't have to jack up the car which means less effort.nitsuga posted:Motronic FTW. ^ Agreed. We've had some tension in the past but I highly value his knowledge on cars and he's super helpful.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 21:58
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:Without a single question this is important. Finding one, though, if you know any car people ask them who they go to. I don't trust online reviews after I had a terrible experience with the #1 rated Subaru mechanic in my area. And when I say car people I don't mean someone who spent a house down payment on a high-trim vehicle, I mean the person who has an unusual car (preferably of the same make but that's not essential) that does a lot of their own work, maybe they are/were a mechanic so they have high standards and a cynical view towards other mechanics. I've got a friend in the area who used to be a mechanic and has an old Land Cruiser so I just asked him his recommendation when I first needed a mechanic here. Appreciate all the responses. I'm in Durham Region in Ontario, not sure if anyone is in the area. Haven't been here long so I haven't actually had a chance to get to know anyone well enough to ask about car, my parents live in the area but they rely on their dealership.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 23:25
|
|
|
Hi there! Pulled of oxygen sensor from my brothers junk car and was hoping to use it for sensor for A/F gauge for one of my cars, but alas it's narrowband. So was thinking is there any point to build clamp-on tailpipe mount for narrowband sensor to get the idle correctish? It got heating on it atleast. Captain Kosmos fucked around with this message at 07:42 on Oct 31, 2021 |
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 06:04
|
|
|
Clamp-on? Maybe if you want a massive exhaust leak... I think the common way to do it is a weld-on bung.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 08:15
|
|
|
I think he meant clamp it on in the muffler for a minute while he tunes the a/f ratio at idle. Imo seems like a lot of work. If you have a car that needs wideband tuning you've got to get to that at some point anyways (added a turbo to an NA motor, etc). Grab a proper wideband and bung it in... Honestly proper dyno tuning is really cheap compared to everything else associated with adding forced induction.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 08:24
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:I think he meant clamp it on in the muffler for a minute while he tunes the a/f ratio at idle. Imo seems like a lot of work. If you have a car that needs wideband tuning you've got to get to that at some point anyways (added a turbo to an NA motor, etc). Grab a proper wideband and bung it in...  The vehicle inspection here in Finland has emissions test and it would be handy to check that out before so I won't pay for nothing. It would be mostly for the NA carbed cars that I have. Also don't like the idea of running bad mixture, especially after cleaning ~50 years of carbon deposit from the heads.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 08:56
|
|
|
Captain Kosmos posted:Yeah, something like this, but less fancy. I don't know anything about carbs, but wouldn't you just need the same narrow band o2 sensor you'd normally be using in a fuel injected normally aspirated car?
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 09:02
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:I don't know anything about carbs, but wouldn't you just need the same narrow band o2 sensor you'd normally be using in a fuel injected normally aspirated car? If I have understanded correctly. Just don't know if narrowband is accurate enough for the tail pipe or some poo poo  Don't really know anything about O2 sensors, other than they are bitch to change and expensive.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 14:28
|
|
|
It wouldn't surprise me to learn that the idle on a carb is controlled by something unrelated to whatever regulates the mixture control under load (the orifice size of the jets right?), I'd just tune idle by ear + rpm until it seems like it's running fine. Some of my friends used to turbo their 240sx's back in the day and there was one wideband sensor and one apexi EFI tuner thing (SAFC) that everyone shared between cars (also one set of rear studded winter tires that we'd swap in the parking lot of the aircare place so they wouldn't be allowed to run the car on the rollers). You'd do a third gear pull and then log the wideband result and I think modify it up or down throughout the range to try and offset it so you'd get perfect a:f on the next run. It was just modifying the feedback of the sensor to the ECU or something, but the ECU itself was used to normally aspirated function so I have no idea how it really worked. Years later I had an apexi power FC in my 98 STI so it could be tuned for North American fuel and it was honestly a tremendous pain in the rear end even for a proper shop to tune it. e: Just looked it up, the apexi SAFC was modifying the MAF signal, not the O2 signal, that makes more sense. It was a weird and wonderful time that I miss dearly but these days I feel like kids can't go do donuts by themselves in the middle of nowhere without having their cars crushed or something. VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 14:43 on Oct 31, 2021 |
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 14:40
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:It wouldn't surprise me to learn that the idle on a carb is controlled by something unrelated to whatever regulates the mixture control under load (the orifice size of the jets right?), I'd just tune idle by ear + rpm until it seems like it's running fine. Idle on a carbureted vehicle is indeed controlled by a combination of the pilot jet, which is different from the main jet, and the idle screw, which adjusts the throttle butterfly ever so slightly.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 16:08
|
|
|
StormDrain posted:I'm a little obsessive about the windshield cleaning. The method I swore I got from the can but may have been from the spray bottle was this. Best thing I ever did was start using waterless wash (Meguiars D114, that's now discontinued) as windscreen wash. Cleans it real nice with good lubrication. Being a waterless wash it sorts itself out when drying. Very good for the "inbetween washes" and less effort when I wash the car.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 16:14
|
|
|
MrOnBicycle posted:Best thing I ever did was start using waterless wash (Meguiars D114, that's now discontinued) as windscreen wash. Cleans it real nice with good lubrication. Being a waterless wash it sorts itself out when drying. Very good for the "inbetween washes" and less effort when I wash the car. Interesting. I just clayed the windows using Griot's speed shine for lube. I was expecting to have to clean them after that, but they're just super freaking clean after running over them with a microfiber. I don't know if that stuff would actually clean windows well (minus the clay) but it sure didn't leave anything behind that I can see.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 16:18
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:Idle on a carbureted vehicle is indeed controlled by a combination of the pilot jet, which is different from the main jet, and the idle screw, which adjusts the throttle butterfly ever so slightly. Thanks, does the main jet only open under sufficient airflow/vaccuum or something? And the pilot is just open all the time? I remember messing with the idle screw on my 87 supra, it would get carbon buildup somehow and needed cleaning every few months.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 16:26
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Interesting. I just clayed the windows using Griot's speed shine for lube. I was expecting to have to clean them after that, but they're just super freaking clean after running over them with a microfiber. There might be better options, but coming from the usual antifreeze window washer mix that you buy at gas stations, this is a huge step up. During the winter I mix it with the antifreeze. The Meguiars stuff is supposed to be mixed at like 1:256 for waterless washing, so no huge amounts needed to add the cleaning power. The biggest problem I have with windows now is always on the inside. At least with the last 2 cars that were new when I got them. The good from the off-gassing (or whatever it is) never ends.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 16:42
|
|
|
Do NOS headgaskets go bad? I have an an engine that was rebuilt circa 2001, and have an extra, new in the box headgasket from that time. I think the engine needs that headgasket now, is it still good or should I buy a new one?
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 18:07
|
|
|
Gasket should be fine. Unless it was cork or something like that. Though I don't think they would use cork for a head gasket for anything made in the last hundred years.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 21:55
|
|
|
Agreed. Only caution on that is if this is like, some motor that is a known head gasket eater and better materials have come out since then (looking at you EJ25).
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 22:01
|
|
|
Inner Light posted:How about dealerships, if I pay a F-you rate can I at least trust they won't be careless about this? The tightest I've ever had my wheels bolted on was at a dealership. Ended up standing on a breaker bar with a cheater bar over it to get all 20 bolts to come loose.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2021 02:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 01:12 |
|
|
What happened to that Z4m rebuild thread? Still waiting for that burnout.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2021 04:52
|
|
