|
i am also for that
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 16:54
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 8, 2024 01:51 |
|
|
e.pilot posted:Titanium is for slow old guys that still want to seem cool. Why just old guys
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 21:08
|
|
|
School of How posted:The reason why I want carbon is just because I ride every single day, and I want the best bike money can buy. I've been riding an aluminum hard tail for the past 4 years and I like everything about it, but just want the same, but better. I'm not on any budget, I just want the best that I can get. So which hardtail are you getting?
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 21:10
|
|
|
MrL_JaKiri posted:Why just old guys reasons
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 21:52
|
|
|
Am I reading this right that Campy's Super Record bottoms brackets (OC12-SRI) will only work with Super Record cranks? Or can I use an OC12-SRI with a Chorus crank? e: here's the Chorus component page: 
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 21:58
|
|
|
wooger posted:Huh? We’re talking about inner tube patches. I think he gets that and is arguing that patching is faster than changing a tube. I don’t agree, but the relevance of QR is presumably that if you don’t have a QR, one advantage of patching is that you can do it without removing the wheel. And then, he argues, even without that advantage patching is faster. I’m team spare tube (well, team tubeless really), but I think that’s what the argument is.
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 22:08
|
|
|
Salt Fish posted:Carbon fiber is for poor people who can't afford personalized lugs.  
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 22:21
|
|
|
spf3million posted:Am I reading this right that Campy's Super Record bottoms brackets (OC12-SRI) will only work with Super Record cranks? Or can I use an OC12-SRI with a Chorus crank? Looks like the difference is withholding a seal since the SR crank has the CULT bearing pressed on. https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=135811
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 22:39
|
|
|
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 22:44
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:Looks like the difference is withholding a seal since the SR crank has the CULT bearing pressed on. Ah interesting. My BB is drilled so I probably don't want to go without sealed bearings even though this will be a fairweather bike. I guess I'd need to either 1) get some seals 2) get a set of non-SR cups or 3) comedy option get some CULT bearings 
|
|
#
?
Oct 30, 2021 23:13
|
|
|
forhorglingrads posted:If you are referring to these, then yes, I suppose it does. Get some cool hammered style fenders. Honjo for the real deal. Handsome Cycles for the knockoffs.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 01:15
|
|
|
Steve French posted:I think he gets that and is arguing that patching is faster than changing a tube. I don’t agree, but the relevance of QR is presumably that if you don’t have a QR, one advantage of patching is that you can do it without removing the wheel. And then, he argues, even without that advantage patching is faster. I seen people, like not an insignificant amount, trying to remove their wheels without flipping the bike over on its back. I suppose taking a wheel out might seem more effort than it actually is if you're trying to do it like that.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 09:31
|
|
|
hemale in pain posted:I seen people, like not an insignificant amount, trying to remove their wheels without flipping the bike over on its back. I suppose taking a wheel out might seem more effort than it actually is if you're trying to do it like that. I can’t conceive of how anyone could think it’s possible to patch without removing the wheel anyway, and how loving around roughing up an area on a tube and gluing is quicker than just swapping it out.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 10:18
|
|
|
I can get a tube changed and be riding again in less than 5 minutes. Faster if I have a riding buddy. I don't even think I'd have even got the patch kit opened in that time with having to find the puncture, never mind waiting for the glue to set.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 12:27
|
|
|
hemale in pain posted:I seen people, like not an insignificant amount, trying to remove their wheels without flipping the bike over on its back.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 12:35
|
|
|
wooger posted:I can’t conceive of how anyone could think it’s possible to patch without removing the wheel anyway, and how loving around roughing up an area on a tube and gluing is quicker than just swapping it out. On my cargo bike, you can't really get to the axle without at least partly uninstalling the panniers that are velcroed into the cargo frame.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 13:29
|
|
|
Sab0921 posted:Get some cool hammered style fenders. Honjo for the real deal. Handsome Cycles for the knockoffs. I am in the market for fenders, and I have googled the Honjo fenders, but I always get resellers or shops I don't recognize. Where is the best place to shop for Honjo fenders? I need them for my Kona Rove which has 650b x 47 tires (would like room for up to 50)
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 13:43
|
|
|
Korwen posted:I am in the market for fenders, and I have googled the Honjo fenders, but I always get resellers or shops I don't recognize. https://www.sim.works/ is where I got mine
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 14:08
|
|
|
Vando posted:So... the normal way? Flipping your bike over is just a recipe to get dirt all over your bars and saddle, I'd avoid it. it's kind of more annoying with thru axel somehow but yeah once you know the "trick" I find it easier to take off a rear wheel while holding the bike rather than flipping it upside down
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 14:58
|
|
|
Ime, it's just easier when solo to move the cassette around the chain dangling normally instead of upside down.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 15:04
|
|
|
spf3million posted:https://www.sim.works/ is where I got mine Same
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 15:30
|
|
|
And if you really hate money while you're there, splash out for the $80 honjo turtle bell. Unrelated to fenders, but the thing looks and sounds amazing.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 16:39
|
|
|
Vando posted:So... the normal way? Flipping your bike over is just a recipe to get dirt all over your bars and saddle, I'd avoid it. Helps to not put your bike in the dirt when doing it. I can't believe anyone could find it easier not just putting the bike on the saddle and bars but apparently it's common then? Do you just lay the bike down after getting the wheel out or what Seems like getting it back in would be a chore
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 19:32
|
|
|
  I am putting together a new bike, the Chinese carbon seatpost came with a seat clamp that severely limits the fore-aft adjustability of the saddle. Is this clamp standard or am I going to have to machine the stupid thing to make it work? Is there an alternate replacement for the saddle clamp for these Chinese things? It uses 2 bolts
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 19:34
|
|
|
Unless the design is incredibly wacky you shouldn't need your saddle slammed all the way forward and tilted all the way back. What does it actually look like on the bike?
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 19:48
|
|
|
hemale in pain posted:I can't believe anyone could find it easier not just putting the bike on the saddle and bars but apparently it's common then? Do you just lay the bike down after getting the wheel out or what And yeah, just laying it on the NDS side so the chain doesn't get in the dirt. quote:Seems like getting it back in would be a chore I try to get my shoulder under the saddle to hold up most of the weight of the bike, giving me more maneuverability to get the skewer cap around the chain and pulley wheel.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 19:52
|
|
|
pinarello dogman posted:Unless the design is incredibly wacky you shouldn't need your saddle slammed all the way forward and tilted all the way back. What does it actually look like on the bike? Thanks for the quick reply. I haven’t even begun to do fitting and adjusting (or even tightening) of the components, but the fact that the front upper clamp is bumping the saddle got me worked up, because look at all the tick marks I can’t reach!
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 19:59
|
|
|
osker posted:I am putting together a new bike, the Chinese carbon seatpost came with a seat clamp that severely limits the fore-aft adjustability of the saddle. Can't tell exactly what your issue is from those pictures, but it sounds like you got an offset post when you need a zero-offset one? Edit: oh, maybe you just have the saddle angled towards the moon and it's causing the bolt to bump? I'd try it on the bike, I think you'll be fine.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 19:59
|
|
|
It looks like the issue might be that the clearance between the top of the rail and the bottom of the saddle towards the front isn’t enough for the clamp to fit in, so he can’t put it further forward? Is that right?
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 20:04
|
|
|
Steve French posted:It looks like the issue might be that the clearance between the top of the rail and the bottom of the saddle towards the front isn’t enough for the clamp to fit in, so he can’t put it further forward? Is that right? Oh, I see. Front top part of the clamp is hitting the saddle? Yeah I'll go with 'wacky design' then.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 20:27
|
|
|
hemale in pain posted:Helps to not put your bike in the dirt when doing it. tbh yeah it is common and easier I think to deal with how the chain routes around the cassette and jockey wheels. Loosen the QR or take out the thru axel, then just kinda pivot the rear derailleur up and back up out of the way and the wheels pretty much falls out. putting it back on just put the wheel on the ground, line up the chain with the right cog (whatever gear it was in), move the derailleur so you can get the chain around the cogs and then once again can kinda just pivot the rear derailleur into place and the wheel will slide into place. easier demonstrated than described really e: lotta extra description here but basically this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oFD7WCgloqo it's how you gotta learn to remove the wheel while in a workstand anyways so once you do any significant work on your bike in a stand, doing it out in the world is mostly the same Levitate fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Oct 31, 2021 |
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 20:40
|
|
|
Steve French posted:It looks like the issue might be that the clearance between the top of the rail and the bottom of the saddle towards the front isn’t enough for the clamp to fit in, so he can’t put it further forward? Is that right? That is correct, you can’t push the seat back beyond what was photographed because the upper clamp is this goofy cylinder instead of some variation of the half moon below. I may just machine a new one out aluminum, but I’m pretty loving mad right now.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 21:26
|
|
|
You sure you want to trust your taint to a seatpost designed by an engineer that came up with that?
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 22:02
|
|
|
hemale in pain posted:Bafang motors are excellent.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 22:14
|
|
|
CopperHound posted:the idea that a good ebike is one where you don't even notice the help it is giving you.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 22:25
|
|
|
evil_bunnY posted:lmao Mines lasted 3 years, hits 30mph and I do about 200km a week on it and repairs have been minimal  I dunno what else you could want for £400
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 23:37
|
|
|
I literally don't know of a bafang mid motor that hasn't needed repairs in the first few years of ownership, and that's across at least half a dozen units.
|
|
#
?
Oct 31, 2021 23:51
|
|
|
Did another 26 miles today in my kit, but yeah, it's time to put the kit away for the season. I averaged 21 miles per hour on the first few miles, and this MUP is on top of a levee along the Mississippi... so when you're in your highest gear expending no effort going over 20 mph for a few miles? Yeah... that's tail wind. I should've kept that in mind, but I didn't, and the ride back up the levee against a strong headwind on a day that didn't get above the mid-50s (14° C) was torture; my legs and arms were getting numb from the chill. Best part of the ride came at about the halfway mark. Most people wouldn't be on this particular trail on a windy, partly cloudy day. It's right on the river, so the wind is stronger and cooler than anywhere else. But, I came up behind a group of 8 or 9 people taking up the whole path, walking a couple of dogs and generally being a happy, walking, ridiculous group of pedestrians. I announced myself with the standard "On the left," and I poo poo you not, each one of them stopped, turned around, realized what was happening, and then shuffled evenly to both sides of the trail. And I don't mean that the ones on the left side went left and the ones on the right went right. Well, some of them did. But the rest of them moved the other way. I'm amazed, amazed, that they didn't very slowly knock themselves over as they got out of my way. I'm glad I called out as early as I did. This is why I need a camera on my helmet or something. I don't go on exciting rides like some of y'all do, but I go on pretty ones, and 72.441% of the people I encounter are hilariously idiotic. Many of them probably assume that about me too. The difference is, they're wrong.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2021 02:59
|
|
|
Very dumb question If my old roadbike can handle a drop in 27" to 700c conversion there's no reason no to do this (aside for doing a full vintage Resto) right? The biggest issue I would have is the brake pads not adjusting down enough right? I have nearly a cm so I think I'll be ok. Considering 27" tires are $15 apiece , I might be able to grab a 700c wheel set for a bargain at my bike co-op and get some cheap tyres from there as well This makes sense as a way forward right?
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2021 10:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 8, 2024 01:51 |
|
|
The rear spacing of the frame might be an issue. It could be 120mm and hubs in that width for threaded freewheels haven't been really made in decades. The freewheel is important since the frame and derailleur might not handle anything but 5 or 6 speeds and cassettes like that don't exist. There are workarounds for everything above but if you don't want to invest time and money getting new tyres for old wheels might be the way to go.
|
|
#
?
Nov 1, 2021 10:26
|
|