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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Thread of the Century is this weeks AI Community Showcase  Awesome. Thanks!
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May 4, 2021 13:34
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| # ? May 11, 2024 10:57 |
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Advent Horizon posted:You’re a bad influence. Now something expensive will break and we’ll all be entertained by Lv’s pain. He's already broken everything expensive on his fleet.  Upside, most of his fleet is old GM stuff, so parts are dirt cheap (when you can find them these days). And GM legos.... (love ya LV, glad to see these A bodies getting some love  )
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May 4, 2021 17:08
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STR posted:He's already broken everything expensive on his fleet. If this thread has taught me anything, it’s that expensive parts can break more than once. Or twice.
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May 4, 2021 17:16
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e: yeah not gonna threadjack, sorry LV
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:34 on May 5, 2021 |
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May 4, 2021 17:33
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cursedshitbox posted:I can't not see goatse grille. I thought it looked like rear end before, so not much of a leap. Left Ventricle posted:Fun fact: it appears as though both 2WD and 4WD trucks use the same front hub! Jeep did that, too, at least on the Cherokees, thought they put a stub axle in there to keep the bearing pack together. Presumably the Dodge's is designed to not require it. Fun fact: apparently the bearing pack/hub on some Corvettes (C5 and C6, I think) are the same front and rear, so an AWD Corvette is possible...
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May 5, 2021 22:36
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HOW ARE YOU GENTLEMEN ALL YOUR STICKER ARE BELONG TO US  YOU ARE ON THE WAY TO DESTRUCTION  WAT YOU SAY  YOU HAVE NO CHANCE TO SURVIVE MAKE YOUR TIME  HA HA HA HA . . . .  Also got some new wheels for the truck, from a 2017 Ram. Debating whether I should swap the tires or buy new ones. 
Left Ventricle fucked around with this message at 16:54 on May 24, 2021 |
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May 24, 2021 16:52
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I love the Championship Bench Racing one. I need a Running In the '90s one for the AE86... if I were keeping it.
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May 24, 2021 17:01
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Safe and legal!
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May 24, 2021 17:39
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all that and the plate is the best thing. CLASSIC ROD
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May 24, 2021 20:00
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I've mentioned this in the past, but there's an upgrade I've been wanting to do for some time on the wagon, namely van brakes. It's a fairly simple swap, with the majority of the parts readily available from any parts house or Rock Auto. Everything except the most important bit: the steering knuckles. The knuckles are the only part not available anywhere but salvage. You also need outer tie rods, ball joints, brake hoses, rotors and calipers, and the hub from the Century.  I went to the yard this past weekend with my brother, and lo and behold, there was a '94 Trans Sport freshly put out. Just what I needed. However, as we all know, Las Vegas summers are brutal and unforgiving. Did I really want to spend a couple hours sweating to death to pull the parts myself?  lol no I would much rather drive 600 miles and pay someone else $35 a pop to pull them from a '96 Lumina that's been sitting in their yard since 2009, so that's what I did yesterday.. They didn't bother playing around with it though, so I got the brakes and hub still attached.  As the above photo illustrates, a car sitting for 13 years tends to collect rust. I need to disassemble the extraneous parts so I can get the knuckles blasted and painted or blued. So I got to work this morning. Today's participants:  Rusty garbage. The hub, caliper and rotor will go in the bin.  The little Makita wasn't cutting it, so I brought out The Big Guns.  The Earthquake XT and a little further persuasion got the caliper, rotor, and hub knocked off.  Second verse, same as the first.  Hero of the day.  Zero of the day. 
Left Ventricle fucked around with this message at 07:01 on Jul 11, 2021 |
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Jun 30, 2021 19:27
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I love oddball upgrades from parts-bins like this.
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Jun 30, 2021 20:43
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Left Ventricle posted:Hero of the day. Hey, c'mon - that little guy isn't even the same class. Don't be dissin' it for not being up to bigger stuff than it's made for. That's for like M6-1/4" an smaller stuff. Maybe M8-5/16". A proper 1/2" drive cordless might have done the job. I'm reasonably impressed with my Ryobi 1/2", and I hear excellent things about Milwaukee's impact. (I know you're being humorous. :P) IOwnCalculus posted:I love oddball upgrades from parts-bins like this. Me, too!
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Jun 30, 2021 21:27
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Us northerners be like " that's not rust"
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Jun 30, 2021 21:58
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I had a Ram of similar vintage as a loaner when my Mazda 3 was in for service (I really don't remember details of which exact model) and I just drove it 55 and got OK mileage per the onboard computer.
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Jun 30, 2021 22:01
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Love those GM Legos. Ask me about building one rear end from 3 different vehicles!
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Jun 30, 2021 22:11
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Love those GM Legos. Ask me about building one rear end from 3 different vehicles! Ask me about repairing a Pontiac Phoenix front knuckle with a rear knuckle from a Fiero (they're literally the same part.)
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Jun 30, 2021 22:19
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sudden fuel leak on the wagon in the vicinity of the filter will investigate further when it's not 105 degrees and 25% humidity
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Jul 21, 2021 02:57
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Left Ventricle posted:
I feel you brother. Some how it hasn’t quite yet hit 100 here in north TX, but the humidity has been fierce.
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Jul 24, 2021 01:12
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Anyone familiar with HPTuners know how to change tire size or speedometer calibration on this Chrysler PCM? It isn't immediately jumping out at me like the GM PCM's, and asking at the HPT forum got me the canned "just use the search function noob" response, and a thread from one of the devs showing it to be in the Scanner under special functions. Then lots of people posting about how it disabled their traction control/ABS or even put it into limp mode afterward.
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Aug 1, 2021 17:43
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Left Ventricle posted:asking at the HPT forum got me the canned "just use the search function noob" response I want to kick every rear end in a top hat who does that in the balls repeatedly with pointy steel toe boots. They know goddamned well that the search is *always* broken, and the only results you find are other people asking the same question and getting the same response. Sorry I can't help, other than ranting.
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Aug 5, 2021 21:38
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I will be taking the wagon to a shop on Monday to have some electrical bullshit looked at, namely the turn signals and cruise control. I might go to the yard and grab a CC module to see if that makes it work again. Also, the CHMSL stopped working, and the rear defrost turns itself on and off at random. Electrical gremlins are fun! I fixed the fuel leak though. It ended up being one of the plastic clips that seats the fuel filter into the main line coming from the tank somehow got damaged and wasn't sealing completely. $18 for a new filter since you can't just get those clips by themselves and George was back on the road. 
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Sep 25, 2021 04:00
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Sounds like you've lost a ground somewhere in the back. I'm betting your brake lights in general are also acting fucky, at least when the parking lights/head lights are on. With them off, they can ground through the parking lights (so nearly full brightness, but probably throws the resistance off enough to gently caress with the CC). With them on, I bet they're trying to ground through your rear defrost and somehow turning it on. Your rear parking lights are probably grounding through the brake lights too. Backup lights coming on dimly at random as well? randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:12 on Sep 26, 2021 |
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Sep 26, 2021 10:10
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I'm not sure about anything else. I haven't driven it with any regularity since before summer, since the Ram has AC. I'll check it out. Thanks.
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Sep 26, 2021 20:22
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Double post. My hunch was mostly correct. The mechanic said the cruise module was dead. The signals now work after replacing a popped fuse  Which I promise I checked multiple times. Whatever, I paid the idiot tax, which, fortunately, was only $60.
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Sep 28, 2021 04:58
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Lol I hate when that happens, but yeah at $60 you got off easy
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Sep 28, 2021 14:16
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Now you get to figure out why the fuse popped! ... right?  I seem to remember something about the turn signal switch itself popping fuses when it gets flaky on that era GM, but maybe I'm mixing that up with how the wiper switch failed spectacularly on my mom's early 90s Cadillac.
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Sep 28, 2021 17:46
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Signals work now, which is what I was concerned with. If it pops the fuse again I will 
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Sep 28, 2021 21:08
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I did not expect to be triggered by this thread The PO of my Comanche thought 40 amp fuses were for everything that blew a fuse and for some weird reason, sections of the wiring harness are melted. I can't imagine why
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Sep 30, 2021 18:04
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Higher number equals better, come on man 
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Sep 30, 2021 18:29
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STR posted:Sounds like you've lost a ground somewhere in the back. I'm betting your brake lights in general are also acting fucky, at least when the parking lights/head lights are on. With them off, they can ground through the parking lights (so nearly full brightness, but probably throws the resistance off enough to gently caress with the CC). With them on, I bet they're trying to ground through your rear defrost and somehow turning it on.
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Oct 1, 2021 03:03
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Disconnect one of the wires to the defrost grid, that'll fix the issue with it turning on with the cruise... though your tail lights might stop working at the same time. Or ignore it. You do need to find that missing ground soon though. If you have a wiring diagram, I'm betting your rear lights and rear defrost all ground through the same wire. You may be able to get away with splicing into the ground of the tail lights or rear defroster, and using a self tapping screw + wire + eyelet crimp to create a new one. It's a hack that just covers up the real issue, but I may have done something similar before... I'm betting you're going to find the bad ground in whatever section of wire is causing the turn signal fuse to pop -  says it's related, and it'll still randomly pop a fuse when those wires rub. Out of curiosity, is the CHMSL part of the liftgate? If so, I'd start checking the wiring to the liftgate (specifically start with the section that goes from the body to the liftgate) - it's a super common place for wires to rub against each other, and I wouldn't be surprised if GM powered it from the same fuse.
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Oct 3, 2021 09:00
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Today was supposed to be an easy day of swapping wheels, since my rear tires are nearly five years old and have some decent cracking in the sidewall. Started like this:  Ended like this, with wheels from a 1992 Silhouette with really good tires. I picked them up from the yard in June of last year, and they've been collecting dust in the garage since.  The headache arose when trying to pull the wheels. My brother had give me some lug nuts that wouldn't fit his car last year, some kinda fancy chrome ones with internal hex, making them a little hard for randos to remove. Unfortunately for me, they were also difficult for me to unscrew, resulting in this:  One broken and two mangled studs. I went ahead and replaced the entire hub, since it was easy enough, and I would have had to pull it to replace the studs regardless, and the rear hubs are original. Painful, at about $100 each. I will do the other one in the morning. A liberal amount of antiseize was applied to the studs and the mounting face so as to prevent such nonsense in the future. Free poo poo always ends up being the most expensive, doesn't it? It also leveled the car back out, which will probably take a little readjustment for me as a driver. I liked the old-school rake the taller rear tires gave it. "New" tires are 205-70-15 all around, while the previous setup was 215-60-16 front, 225-60-16 rear. There's like a tenth of an inch difference in height, so I probably won't even need to recalibrate the speedometer.
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Nov 1, 2021 04:46
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I have found that liberal application of Fluid Film is the best thing for preventing wheel-to-hub freezing. At least in the Midwest.
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Nov 1, 2021 15:15
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I put a thin coat of nickel antiseize on the wheel where it contacts the hub/rotor face (trying hard to keep it away from the lug holes) and that seems to work well.
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Nov 1, 2021 16:54
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Second verse same as the first, with extra bonus broken studs on the passenger side. Time for new shoes, it seems.  New hotness.  No such thing as too much antiseize, right guys?  Old hub goes exactly where it belongs.  Quick test drive confirmed speedometer calibration is accurate. Unexpected side effect of new wheels: steering wheel straightened out, where it was clocked a few degrees left before. I had an alignment done when I replaced the struts last year, and the mechanic was obsessed with getting the wheel straight, spending something like two hours loving with it. I commended him. His efforts have paid dividends now.
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Nov 1, 2021 22:01
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Why would the wheels affect the alignment of the steering wheel? Edit, or rather how? I don't doubt you. I'm curious if you had different sized wheels or tires or what.
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Nov 1, 2021 23:45
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I don't know. I found it unusual myself. Like I said, the overall diameter is with a tenth of an inch, but the width is smaller on the Silhouette set. Maybe that?
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Nov 1, 2021 23:54
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Left Ventricle posted:I don't know. I found it unusual myself. Like I said, the overall diameter is with a tenth of an inch, but the width is smaller on the Silhouette set. Maybe that? And the ones you took off were identical, right? As in, right and left were the same? Maybe it had to do with the hub replacement somehow.
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Nov 1, 2021 23:58
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StormDrain posted:And the ones you took off were identical, right? As in, right and left were the same? Maybe it had to do with the hub replacement somehow. Hub replacement was for the rears. The Silhouette wheels are 15x6 with 205-70 tires, the Grand Am wheels are 16x6.5 with 215-60 tires.
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Nov 2, 2021 00:09
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| # ? May 11, 2024 10:57 |
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Maybe your hub and brake work eliminated a sticky brake at one corner and this is what corrected the steering angle?
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Nov 2, 2021 15:36
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