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majestic12 posted:somebody whispers, "urban walnut slabs" and matt cremona wakes up in a cold sweat Urban walnut slab workbench......
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Nov 5, 2021 16:41
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Mr. Mambold posted:Maybe get a 2nd opinion? I'm reading where that can be effectively heat (kiln, I'd imagine) treated: It's also an English walnut, not black. But the wood is still pretty. The other tree died about 10 years ago, so that one I'm not worried about. Khizan posted:As a dissenting opinion, I'd just burn it on site. Black walnut's a very pretty wood but not pretty enough that I'd gently caress around with possibly spreading a fungal tree disease.
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Nov 5, 2021 17:16
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simply build a kiln on site
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Nov 5, 2021 17:22
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BRB, looking up instructions on how to build a kiln large enough for a 15ft long 3ft diameter log
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Nov 5, 2021 17:51
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I've seen things about solar kilns that seem fairly easy to build on your property as long as you have some place with lots of sunlight? Since you'll be cutting down all your shade anyway... You'd want to turn it into slabs before trying to kiln dry it though, I expect. Speaking of urban wood, has anyone worked with mulberry or catalpa before? Both of those are pretty prevalent where I live but I've never seen anyone use them for anything.
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Nov 5, 2021 17:55
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In all seriousness that's not difficult, if we're just looking for 56C. Make a few semicircular hoops of sufficient diameter, put two layers of poly on it, pin down the sides, and throw a medium-sized space heater on the end in the sun on a warmish day. My greenhouse with just the poly will get 20-25 C hotter than the outside ambient temperature on a sunny day, and during summer it needs constant ventillation if I want to keep all living things inside from being cooked to death. I shudder to think how hot it would get if there were additional heat being added.
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Nov 5, 2021 17:56
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SubponticatePoster posted:BRB, looking up instructions on how to build a kiln large enough for a 15ft long 3ft diameter log Do you have rocks and dirt? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GzLvqCTvOQY
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Nov 5, 2021 17:56
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SubponticatePoster posted:The weather is supposed to be great this weekend so I may cut off a branch to send to my local ag extension for confirmation. Looking at that branch though, it's got the weepy pinholes/bark staining that's indicative of the disease. English walnut is even prettier than black walnut!!! What I read on Wikipedia said removing the bark/cambium/maybe sapwood makes it safe to transport, but definitely check with your local ag extension. Might be able to get a portable sawmill person to saw it up and remove the sapwood on-site. But if you yourself don’t have much interest in woodworking, that may be more involved than you care about and, tbh, a very large percentage of a walnut tree is mostly firewood anyway.
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Nov 5, 2021 18:01
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  I finished the rest of my railing, and now it's all installed bottom and top. Now I just need a shelf for more plants next to the window. Learned so much about precision and finishing on this one. Really happy with how it turned out even if there's a few finishing touches that need to happen with trim work.
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Nov 5, 2021 19:33
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SubponticatePoster posted:BRB, looking up instructions on how to build a kiln large enough for a 15ft long 3ft diameter log just ask your mom
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Nov 5, 2021 19:56
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drat that dopamine hit from making a bunch of perfectly identical pieces
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Nov 5, 2021 19:57
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CommonShore posted:drat that dopamine hit from making a bunch of perfectly identical pieces NGL, it felt really good. Same with hitting the 3.75" between each piece and then even better when the almost perfectly line up from top to bottom.
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Nov 5, 2021 20:19
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lament.cfg posted:just ask your mom Kaiser Schnitzel posted:English walnut is even prettier than black walnut!!! What I read on Wikipedia said removing the bark/cambium/maybe sapwood makes it safe to transport, but definitely check with your local ag extension. Might be able to get a portable sawmill person to saw it up and remove the sapwood on-site. But if you yourself don’t have much interest in woodworking, that may be more involved than you care about and, tbh, a very large percentage of a walnut tree is mostly firewood anyway.  and I don't have the tools or shop space. The branches will be cut for firewood since that takes care of the "keep on site" and "burn" recommendations. It's not gonna get cut down immediately, probably next spring/summer so I've got some time to figure stuff out.
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Nov 5, 2021 21:22
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fellow canadians, i just learned that Busy Bee Tools is releasing a line of planes and they're a hundred bucks less than Veritas but they claim the sole and wings come flat/square within 3 thou, out of the box. they're extremely similar to the Tay Tools planes so they might be from the same factory. if their claims are true then they could be decent options for the price https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dZ7h9W2cZy4
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Nov 6, 2021 03:10
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Nemico posted:fellow canadians, i just learned that Busy Bee Tools is releasing a line of planes and they're a hundred bucks less than Veritas but they claim the sole and wings come flat/square within 3 thou, out of the box. they're extremely similar to the Tay Tools planes so they might be from the same factory. if their claims are true then they could be decent options for the price I saw that in their flyer, pretty cool. I'm a bit sad they are not releasing a block plane...but i still don't have a jointer plane, so maybe that will be the one.
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Nov 6, 2021 03:57
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Dopamine
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Nov 6, 2021 19:56
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CommonShore posted:Dopamine
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Nov 6, 2021 20:00
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EVERYWHERE 
CommonShore posted:Dopamine 
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Nov 6, 2021 22:01
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Final coat of varnish on the ski rack. I lightly stained the wood with some "rustic oak" colour stuff and then it's got a few coats of boat varnish on top.  The view from the workshop is pretty good today!
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Nov 7, 2021 12:33
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Wow
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Nov 7, 2021 13:53
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knox_harrington posted:Final coat of varnish on the ski rack. I lightly stained the wood with some "rustic oak" colour stuff and then it's got a few coats of boat varnish on top. I guess I know why you need a ski rack
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Nov 7, 2021 14:14
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Now that I have done this cut the hard way (with cheap hand saws), what would have been the power tool to use for this cut? I started it up with a circular saw but that immediately felt sketchy so I abandoned that. It's hard to make out from photos, but it's like cutting the corner off of one side to cutting a smaller corner off the opposite side, all a rip cut. 
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Nov 7, 2021 15:40
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Serenade posted:Now that I have done this cut the hard way (with cheap hand saws), what would have been the power tool to use for this cut? I started it up with a circular saw but that immediately felt sketchy so I abandoned that. Table saw. I've done cuts like that with the circ saw by clamping the board to other boards for stability. e. but I'd probably just do that with my jack plane now.
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Nov 7, 2021 15:44
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CommonShore posted:Table saw. I've done cuts like that with the circ saw by clamping the board to other boards for stability. I was worried that the answer was "table saw." It's often that you'll be hyper aware of what the tools you don't have would let you do, but it all keeps coming back to table saws for me. And that's roughly what I did for circular saw, but couldn't configure it in a way that felt safe. Gotta get more clamps. A jack plane actually also makes a lot of sense. I was focused on cutting off the waste, but yeah it is basically a corner to shave off.
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Nov 7, 2021 15:50
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the thing is that's a nearly perfect cut for illustrating how power tools, especially large machine-style ones, aren't necessarily faster than hand tools. If you're doing that with a hand saw you just grab the saw and go at it, right? And it's not as if you're cutting through 8/4 hard maple there. To do that same cut on a table saw or band saw you'd need a tapering jig, and you'd need to modify it to add the second bevel - so you have all of this setup, and you'd need maybe even to make the tapering jig. The power tool doesn't so much save time until you're making batches of them. Even if you're doing the circ saw version you have to set up the cut clamping, set up the guide, set up the angle on the saw... This is why I enjoy making Paul Sellers style sawhorses. I have two sets and I might make a third set soon because a) I use them all the time and b) they're a fun afternoon project with a few cuts that are more difficult to do with power tools than with hand tools.
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Nov 7, 2021 16:10
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If you want that cut to be even vaguely accurate or join up to anything you most certainly aren't "just grabbing a hand saw and going at it" If you just want to take the corner off a 2x4 sure go ahead and grab your whittlin' knife
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Nov 7, 2021 16:41
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A Wizard of Goatse posted:If you want that cut to be even vaguely accurate or join up to anything you most certainly aren't "just grabbing a hand saw and going at it" You don't just go at it, no, but it's straightforward to lay it out, saw to 1/8th of the line then plane it perfectly to the line in five minutes. I did some faceted table legs like that, it was very easy with hand tools to work to the layout lines.
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Nov 7, 2021 21:39
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CommonShore posted:Table saw. I've done cuts like that with the circ saw by clamping the board to other boards for stability. Long-ways bevel cuts in narrow boards with a circular saw are the deepest pit in workholding hell
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Nov 8, 2021 00:01
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Seems like the sort of thing you could knock out very quickly sneaking up on it with a bandsaw then cleaning up on a bench sander or with a plane.
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Nov 8, 2021 00:06
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Elem7 posted:Seems like the sort of thing you could knock out very quickly sneaking up on it with a bandsaw then cleaning up on a bench sander or with a plane. This'd probably work better for a one-off where you don't have any jigs or anything yeah. Table saw's strengths really lie in production work where you're going to be doing the same cut 30 times so a little setup time pays off in being able get exactly what you want consistently in one pass. Either would work fine tho A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Nov 8, 2021 |
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Nov 8, 2021 00:14
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Has anyone successfully straightened saw blades? From my late father's tools I have a lovely old Disston ripsaw, goes through maple like a hot knife through butter. Unfortunately, it has a twist along the blade so that as I rip along my straight line, the blade curves through so that the other side ends up a quarter inch away from the line. The internet has suggested pouring boiling water on and bending it back and forth, there are several guides online about hammering it back into true which have a big variety of opinions on hammer type, anvil, etc. Has anyone here actually done it? How did you do it?
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Nov 8, 2021 02:09
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Stultus Maximus posted:The internet has suggested pouring boiling water on and bending it back and forth whoever told you this was loving with you You can hammer it straight without too much difficulty, just stay away from the teeth. Ideally sandwich it between two steel bars covering the length of the twist and set behind the gullet and pound on that. Anything you do to cold-work the metal will harden it and increase the chance of breakage, so there's a limit to how much loving around you can do, but sawblade steel has to be pretty resilient to do its job - it's also quite springy tho and can be a pain in the rear end to get it back to 100%. Plenty easy to get it good enough for the lovely makerspace-grade bandsaw blades I generally gently caress up doing dumb poo poo, though A Wizard of Goatse fucked around with this message at 02:44 on Nov 8, 2021 |
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Nov 8, 2021 02:26
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First real attempt at a box joint went well. A couple minor adjustments needed, but I'm satisfied (sanded with 120 grid, though... yikes). Wiped a quick beeswax/oil finish and it's presentable. I did this with a straight router big, but I have an upcut spiral bit coming, will I notice a difference?
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Nov 8, 2021 14:37
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meatpimp posted:First real attempt at a box joint went well. A couple minor adjustments needed, but I'm satisfied (sanded with 120 grid, though... yikes). Wiped a quick beeswax/oil finish and it's presentable. Make sure you sand with the grain of the wood, not cross-grain, and if you do have to sand cross-grain, make sure you sand all the crossgrain scratches out with whatever grit you made them with before moving to a finer grit. That's what is causing those lines all around the joint.
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Nov 8, 2021 14:45
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Looks good! A spiral bit will cut easier and if you had any problems with tearout/chipout right at the edge of the cut, it should do a bit better with that. I find I can take a heavier cut with a spiral bit than a straight bit too. Thanks, I had the bit set a bit too high, so there was a good bit of finger to sand down, and I was more concerned with the joint than how it finished. So I wasn't focused on grain, but I'll definitely keep that in mind. Plus, I should use some reasonable grit paper on the sander.  Edit: I don't know who I thought I was kidding. As soon as I saw those sanding marks, I knew it wasn't okay even for a test piece. 
meatpimp fucked around with this message at 15:04 on Nov 8, 2021 |
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Nov 8, 2021 14:50
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Quote =/= edit. 
meatpimp fucked around with this message at 15:05 on Nov 8, 2021 |
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Nov 8, 2021 14:59
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meatpimp posted:Thanks, I had the bit set a bit too high, so there was a good bit of finger to sand down, and I was more concerned with the joint than how it finished. So I wasn't focused on grain, but I'll definitely keep that in mind. Plus, I should use some reasonable grit paper on the sander. Oh It's more than fine for a test piece! I thought your '(sanded with 120 grid, though... yikes)' was in reference to the sanding marks and you were having trouble with them. I fall into the same trap about sanding grit and trying to just use whatever is already on the sander. I know in my heart of hearts it is both faster and better to switch to a lower grit and work up through to the final grit but the sandpaper is over there and this is right here and it will only take a minute...
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Nov 8, 2021 15:18
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Stultus Maximus posted:Has anyone successfully straightened saw blades? I'd put the spine in a vise and tap with a 1 lb dead blow hammer. Never tried it though.
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Nov 8, 2021 16:13
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Apologies if I'm posting too much, but I'm in the middle of testing some proofs-of-concept to say gently caress off with my current job and starting to make things. I've got a lot of ideas and need to slow down to prove out each step. Today is box joints for making boxes. And it's looking good. 3/8" upcut spiral bit showed up and made nice cuts in spalted maple that's damned hard and prone to tearout: 
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Nov 8, 2021 19:17
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Stultus Maximus posted:Has anyone successfully straightened saw blades? OK, so, saw blades other than fancy exotic ones are usually spring steel, and the trouble with bending spring steel is that you have to flex it past its maximum "springiness" point before it'll take a permanent change in shape... and when you do that, you are making a big arc which makes it very difficult to judge exactly where and how much the new bend will be there. One way to get the bend you want is to tightly isolate the zone you need to flex. You can do this with a (metalworking) vise, by clamping firmly just adjacent to a point you want to bend, and then using pliars or just pulling on it to grip and force a tiny bend just above the vise jaw, then advance the blade in the vise a wee bit to cover the bit you just bent and apply another tiny bend, etc. However, you are very likely to get bad results the first five or ten times you try to do this. You want to get it right first time with this antique saw probably. Another option is to hot bend it. Hot water won't do, you'd need to apply a torch and get it red hot. Of course this will remove the hardness and temper, so you'd then have to quench (while still at austinitic temp, e.g. magnet won't stick, glowing a low red), and then temper for example by putting in a 500 degree oven for an hour. Getting thin steel this hot and keeping it there without burning through is very hard, and it will cool from that hot just in air contact almost instantly so just getting it into a quench from your torch without it dropping below temp will be very hard too. So I don't think this is actually a great option. This is a lot of work to try and salvage a saw blade though. Lastly is cold-working with a hammer. As others have said, this takes some finesse too, and should be done on a flat metal surface that doesn't give (like an anvil - if you have a metalworking vise, it may have a small anvil surface on it). You'll want to strike it with a pretty flat hammer face, don't use the peen. Tap it a little, working up and down the metal, and gradually increase the strength of your blows until the metal starts actually taking on a new shape (hopefully a straighter one). Cold-working spring steel a little bit is reasonably safe, but it may also just take a sudden bend when you catch it with the edge of your hammer face, or just refuse to take a new bend, or even just snap. A lot depends on a bunch of variables like how thick the metal is, exactly what alloy it is, what kind of temper was already done to it, and I dunno, dumb luck as well. But I do think this is the right choice. e, for cold-working, see this really good video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_KikzIarLg All told I think it's worth it to give any of the above a shot, since the blade is trash anyway if you can't fix it. I wouldn't actually spend any money trying to fix it though. Let us know how it works out! Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 19:56 on Nov 8, 2021 |
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Nov 8, 2021 19:43
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