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I replaced the front quarter and both doors on one side of the Sienna this week with matching paint doors from a junkyard. Swapping glass, door panels, speakers, locks, and window motors took a while to figure out, but I feel like I learned something in the process. I drove a few hundred miles and picked up this 1968 Spitfire today. The engine, suspension, and chassis are clean, it was supposedly repainted 10 years ago, but it got blasted because the last owner didn't trust the restoration, and mice had eaten the interior. Blasting showed a few floor board and cowl rust holes, as well as that the rear valence was pretty beat up. I'm decent with a tig welder, so I think I'll use this as an excuse to improve my bodywork skills. I paid ~$2,000, and in this car market I feel like I paid a fair price for a project. The windshield surround, glass, interior, trim, etc. are all in boxes.
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Nov 8, 2021 04:13
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STR posted:FORScan Lite on Android with a generic OBD2 Bluetooth dongle MIGHT pull it. It does on my 07 Crown VIc. I've been meaning to look into FORScan more, as my buddy has a FoRS and I've been trying to get him into it. Was unaware it was supported for earlier cars. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081VQVD3F The cable is much less than a used SCT tuner, and I have zero plans on tuning this car as I just want to keep it stock and get it running. Thanks! Non-edit: FORScan for Ford, VAGCOM for VW, what's with the genital-based naming scheme?
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Nov 8, 2021 04:16
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Changed the oil on my partner’s 2017 Ford Focus. Had fun when I discovered that the dealership that had literally been the only place it had been serviced until now absolutely rattle gunned the gently caress out of the drain plug. My low torque impact (210lb-ft) wouldn’t budge it. What the gently caress, Star Ford.
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Nov 8, 2021 06:45
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Installed an ARB recovery point in my Tacoma. Actually still doing it and just taking a break. One of the holes was a bit misaligned so I had to drill it out just a hair bigger, and now waiting for the lovely princess auto brand paint to dry before I try again to install it and find out I need like another 1/128 of an inch to get it on there. Gotta work nights this week so I might as well do this now, Get it installed, then get my truck ready for night drilling on railroad tracks tomorrow night. Lots of sitting around doing nothing (but getting paid double time  ) before "rush rush rush we've only got 2 hours left before our track permit expires"!@!!
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Nov 8, 2021 07:09
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Got the new 7.3 super duty shitbox to run today. Guess I was right on about the IPR being stuck open. Replaced it and got pressure out of the HPOP, replaced the batteries/starter, and it actually fired up. Turbo impeller was full of acorn chunks and the waste gate is stuck wide open (maybe more acorns). 4R100 is empty and it sorta looks like it was leaking out of the solenoid pack connector but it's hard to tell exactly what has atf on it because everything is covered in black oil maybe from someone trying to diagnose the HPOP before me or maybe the turbo pedestal is pissing oil everywhere, who knows. Hopefully I can throw some supertech in it and at least be able to move it under its own power out of the middle of the driveway instead of dragging it everywhere with my other shitbox 7.3
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Nov 9, 2021 03:22
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2012 Honda Odyssey. Front quick struts, control arm (R),    And I really need to buy a 19mm ratcheting wrench and a cordless ratchet for whatever the next job is.
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Nov 9, 2021 22:28
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Yerok posted:Got the new 7.3 super duty shitbox to run today. Guess I was right on about the IPR being stuck open. Replaced it and got pressure out of the HPOP, replaced the batteries/starter, and it actually fired up. 2WD or 4WD? I've got a spare 4r100 from the roll over I bought the motor/trans from for my shitbox 7.3
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Nov 9, 2021 23:06
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The winter wheels for my pickup are going to look flashy, so my brakes should too. This is POR-15 brake caliper paint in silver. The big flaws in the drums are loose bristles from the lovely brush that came included with the POR-15 kit. I did the whole POR-15 procedure, cleaning and sanding, degreasing with the special POR sauce, etching with POR's magic fluid, POR-15 rust coating, then the caliper paint on top of that. I still have to apply one more coat, then wait 24 hours to put everything back together.    Edit: I should have taken before photos. The drums were on the truck when I bought it in 2015. They were in pretty good cosmetic shape given their age. The calipers and brackets were surprisingly crusty given that they were both reman units replaced in the last two years. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Nov 10, 2021 |
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Nov 9, 2021 23:44
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When I swapped the engine out I couldn't get a thermostat housing gasket for it in time. I ordered it a week before the swap with a promised date of the next day. It still wasn't there after the swap and when I was leaving town. The thermostat in it looked genuine or close enough to genuine. Good enough. Heading south. But uh there's a hysteresis with the thermoswitch in the head that controls cold start advance/glowplugs/fast idle systems. That's not supposed to happen. I can't hear the little bleed port in the thermostat housing rattling either. Annnnd its running too warm for being tuned at N/A power. Cooling system is ineffectual over EGT of 450C when it should be about 575C. Not hearing the fan clutch engage. Sounds to me its a flow issue like a thermostat stuck partially open. poo poo. These engines are extremely picky about thermostats, oem only or it tries to cook itself. Since this is a prodigiously expensive minty mint 7.3 that'll start like a gas engine when its -10C/14F out, I won't let it cook itself despite its best efforts. That means running slower than 22r powered dolphins.   Anyway. Blob of RTV is obscuring the port on the the thermostat housing.  And the thermostat itself. Knockoff on the left, Genuine on the right.   The old 7.3 on its way out caused the top tank on the new brass rad to start leaking some. I'll solder that up when I get parked for the winter. While I have the tools out. The left off-road driving lamp has been out for the last few months due to a broken wire. 
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Nov 10, 2021 00:14
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Suburban Dad posted:2012 Honda Odyssey. Front quick struts, control arm (R), Quick struts rule. When my wife's Elantra somehow broke a front spring, I just threw two quick struts at it. I was done the whole job in less than an hour, most of that spent loving around with the cowl since the top mounting nuts were buried under it.
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Nov 10, 2021 01:42
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the spyder posted:2WD or 4WD? I've got a spare 4r100 from the roll over I bought the motor/trans from for my shitbox 7.3 4WD. It's probably junk but maybe it'll at least make it onto a trailer.
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Nov 10, 2021 02:13
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So anyway, the head unit in my Cayman started rebooting every 3-5 minutes, resulting in a white screen flash, resetting whatever was changed since the last startup (including source and volume), and cutting out aux input from the joyeauto even. So yeah, it was the harddisk failing, which is expected after seven years or whatthefuckever.Ranzear posted:Some engineer in Germany is looking at the vibration analysis, and while the worst case levels would easily destroy the very part it's holding, he takes a fat bong rip and says "we should loctite the harddrive screws."   Look at this bullshit. Let's be clear: I wasn't asking.   My old boot drive, maybe a little worn-in but not needed for anything else. Test fit in carriage. Plug random poo poo in, remember not to unplug watercooling pump, inhale years of dust.   Clonezilla is pissed. The Toshiba is making GBS threads all over the place even while we're just trying to start up the tools.  tl;dr: Yup, poo poo's hosed. Double pass, pulled as many little fragments as possible.   After cloning and slapping it back in, was still not loading navigation data and still rebooting. Still not much more hosed than expected, but needed more work. Put it off for an extra day because the weather has been just as messy.   Missing some pictures, and didn't help that writing the files took 40 minutes every time, but basically it was so hosed it couldn't even read update files from the USB port. Didn't recognize multiple sticks nor my phone nor even a tiny old stick with a single mp3 on it. Extra turbo hosed. Little out of order here, but also: When I came back to it, I also had the knowledge that it's a QNX filesystem and not repairing it will lead to the update media failing anyway. I spent the better part of two hours trying to track down how to run chkfsys (not fsck!) from Ubuntu or Debian or whatever. Not happening. Most other posting about this just writes blank partitions with the right offsets and lets the update media write everything back, but then you lose all your map updates (and Porsche will charge you a couple hundred bucks to insert a DVD in your car for 15 minutes).   So I may have found the coolest little bullshit to get around this: A VMWare image of a QNX environment, with all the tools I needed. I also discovered that it's a newer QNX 6 file system, but Neutrino had the right util anyway. There was no output on the first run of chkqnx6fs but it took a while and fixed something, so I ran it across the other partitions with -verbose for good measure but it really didn't tell me much. So I had a cloned SSD and a fixed filesystem and ... no way to run the update media that would patch everything back together. Time to get medieval on this poo poo:  Yeah. The update media is normally on a DVD, and one can just burn it. Problem is the only optical drive in the whole house is in my old-old laptop, like circa 2015.   Having it all on a USB already was nice. Doesn't need any special bootable nonsense or anything, just slap the flies on the disk. Write it slow, no rush = no fuckups. Also: Say hello to Mr. Bear. He's as old as I am.    Let's loving gooooo.    *Panic Reboots* "Hey did you know something is wrong and we have to fix some stuff in here?" NO poo poo? Don't forget your Cyclic Redundancy Check Checks. These guys must program ATM Machines on LCS Ships too.  After a restart and popping the disc back in again, back to our regular boring updating. I was driving my usual loop to kill the 30 minutes or so this all took without also killing my battery.   gently caress yes and gently caress you, guy who put loctite on harddrive screws, but also gently caress yes. Got maps and speed limits back and managed to not gently caress up my dash any more than previously, and now I can go back to ignoring all that poo poo I just fixed and enjoying wireless android auto (and bitching at Waze to fix their maps always being in day mode unless I fiddle with it).
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Nov 10, 2021 02:14
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opengl128 posted:Quick struts rule. When my wife's Elantra somehow broke a front spring, I just threw two quick struts at it. I was done the whole job in less than an hour, most of that spent loving around with the cowl since the top mounting nuts were buried under it.
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Nov 10, 2021 16:18
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My new Fit had been doing the fuel gauge display freak out that is super common on this model.  So I took the gauge cluster out and reflowed the solder on the eight connections on the board. No pics of that process because it was so quick, but it seems that I managed to not gently caress it up. The longest part of the process was sneaking the cluster out from the dash. I also threw my stock S2000 shift knob on the Fit 
Imperador do Brasil fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Nov 11, 2021 |
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Nov 11, 2021 17:20
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Imperador do Brasil posted:My new Fit had been doing the fuel gauge display freak out that is super common on this model.
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Nov 11, 2021 18:05
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DrChu posted:Did that only happen when it was cold or all the time? The climate control on my BRZ is starting to do something similar on cold mornings. Pretty much only when cold. It’s just not-great cracked solder joints and once it warmed up it would go back to normal.
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Nov 11, 2021 18:17
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opengl128 posted:Quick struts rule. When my wife's Elantra somehow broke a front spring, I just threw two quick struts at it. I was done the whole job in less than an hour, most of that spent loving around with the cowl since the top mounting nuts were buried under it. Yep for sure. Now that I've seen the light it's hard to go back. Same cowl fuckery on this one too. 
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Nov 11, 2021 19:23
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Changed the transmission pan, filter, and bit of the fluid:  The new pan has a drain plug   some chunks, OOF
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Nov 11, 2021 21:13
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Chunjee posted:Changed the transmission pan, filter, and bit of the fluid:  Some lube monkey will still manage to drain the wrong pan.
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Nov 12, 2021 05:06
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“I could’ve sworn I labeled the pan. Oh well, this must be it.”
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Nov 12, 2021 05:48
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Ooh, some really tough label stickers that said "ENGINE OIL" and "TRANSMISSION" sounds like a good idea. I have tried looking for some stickers for the side of the vehicle with the fuel door with no luck.
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Nov 12, 2021 17:25
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Ranzear posted:So anyway, the head unit in my Cayman started rebooting every 3-5 minutes, resulting in a white screen flash, resetting whatever was changed since the last startup (including source and volume), and cutting out aux input from the joyeauto even. So yeah, it was the harddisk failing, which is expected after seven years or whatthefuckever. Why in the *gently caress* did they use a mechanical hard drive? What is this, 1998? It's a Porsche - they could have afforded an SSD even when they were newish.
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Nov 12, 2021 18:01
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PBCrunch posted:I have tried looking for some stickers for the side of the vehicle with the fuel door with no luck. I get my safety signs made here: https://www.mysafetysign.com They have lots of templates, including blank ones. I've never used the stickers in an engine bay, but if you choose the 3M material, they are very nice stickers. Good printing. They might not stand up to hot ATF drips, though.
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Nov 12, 2021 18:04
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Got the new 7.3 shitbox to start up nice, identified the worst offenders of the remaining oil leaks, and replaced the stuck caliper so I can roll it around easier. Started looking into why the transmission doesn't do anything. Line pressure is in spec in all gears, torque converter looks like a fancy triple disc and doesn't make any horrible noises, doesn't even have a leaking front pump seal. Maybe I'll luck out and find the feed bolts backed out of the case but probably I'll just find a bunch of metal and clutch material in the pan.
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Nov 14, 2021 04:35
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Combining a couple things here: I managed to overheat Carbotech XP10s on the rear of my car at my last track weekend, and decided to buy new rotors and get the existing ones resurfaced. I priced out rotors at $50-70 each at RockAuto, then checked Amazon. Amazon had all-black EBC rotors for $35 with 2 in stock so I ordered both. They arrived and turned out to be 2-packs, so now I have 4 rotors and the Amazon price listing is back at a more reasonable $150. Old, bumpy rotors:  New, and disappointing many buyers, the wear surface does not actually stay black:  The other pending thing I needed to fix is that both front LCA (camber / radius arm) ball joints were going bad, which led to the early death of my previous front tires. This is probably a result of going off at the end of a 110mph straight last year when a bleeder screw backed out halfway through my 4th session of the day. Once again, I'm glad Arizona Motorsports Park has lots of very safe runoff and very few walls. This being a weird Australian import, GM's dealer network has one new arm available and is on national backorder for the other side. Superpro makes replacements for slightly more money with their bushings preinstalled, but I can't find any evidence anyone has used them on an SS. Because magnetic ride control is only available on a handful of HSV cars, there's a flat spot on the arm but no mounting point for the ride height sensor. So I ordered some stainless U-bolts from Mcmaster and cut a piece of 1" wide, 1/8" aluminum bar down and drilled some holes in it, and added a nut on the back side for the stock bolt to attach to. This is all driving a plastic arm on the sensor, so there's not much load. It's also slightly off: the new mounting point is probably 1/2" closer to the bushing than stock, but it should be close enough. Arms (stock & busted, with aftermarket with brackets added):  Installed:  Then I fixed the front toe using painter's tape and a laser level, as described here: https://nasaspeed.news/tech/suspension/setting-toe-with-a-laser-level/. Toe settings were way off, which makes me wonder how much those (torn?) bushings were flexing the last time the car was aligned. I'm still waiting on the other front (caster arm) replacements to get unloaded from a container and ship to me, and I'll take it to an alignment shop after that's done.
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Nov 14, 2021 04:56
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Darchangel posted:Why in the *gently caress* did they use a mechanical hard drive? What is this, 1998? 2012, technically. To be faaaair it's a ruggedized automotive rated harddrive and SSDs were still 10x the price per GB. That automotive rating is silly in hindsight since an SSD is leagues ahead in durability anymore but they were still new at the time and there were still questions about write longevity. Just for comparison because it comes up in the same kind of searches: Macbooks didn't even have SSDs at the time.
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Nov 14, 2021 17:55
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Ranzear posted:Just for comparison because it comes up in the same kind of searches: Macbooks didn't even have SSDs at the time. Some of them did. The first Retina MBP in late 2012 had an SSD. The Airs of the era did too.
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Nov 14, 2021 18:05
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opengl128 posted:Some of them did. The first Retina MBP in late 2012 had an SSD. The Airs of the era did too. Imma be a stodgy codger and say those don't count in this instance. Proprietary mSATA connector, like an M.2 drive but older and different, not a standard 2.5" SSD. Was developed for the Air but not for reliability reasons or anything (quite the opposite: 'can't upgrade, buy the new one next year' bux.) Porsche wanted something off-the-shelf because they are Sensible Germans unlike the guys across the street at BMW if we wanna get into Apple parallels. All the stuff I was finding related to 2.5" SSD replacements in 2012 macbooks so... The PCM 3.1 unit is a bit older still, and you'll find some in the I now have a virtual machine that can poke around the file system and I've taken note that I could probably mess with the update media, calculate some CRCs, and put custom poo poo on there now. Dickbutt startup screen soon. Ranzear fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Nov 14, 2021 |
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Nov 14, 2021 18:40
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heffray posted:
This wasn't missed. I'm not surprised and still disappointed that people would think there was a solid black metal available for a rotor. I did a little something, moved the Galaxie for the first time since I put it on stands earlier this year. Trip report, brakes feel like modern brakes, steering steers! There's a transfer of sound through the steering shaft since it's a u joint and not a rag joint. I will be marinating on reworking everything to go back to the rag joint or not. I think I need to bleed the steering out a bit more before I'm certain. I also got a few parts in the mail so I can keep moving forward.
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Nov 14, 2021 19:07
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Auto industry has to use old rear end hardware for that stuff. When you're making millions of a thing buying outdated (cheap) hardware saves a ton of money. Not to mention long lead times for developing a car. Generally seems about 5 years behind technology when it hits the market.
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Nov 14, 2021 22:20
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Went to look at a little rental shop space down the road from me but it was a wash. Too lovely, too expensive, too many sketchy neighbors. Got a little depressed and didn't do anything on saturday. On sunday I grabbed a sheet of 1/2 OSB from the basement, flopped it under the lovely 7.3, drank some extra beers, and pulled the transfer case and transmission outside in the snow. I'm sure I'm not the first and not the last. Now my dilemma is that I don't want to pay one of my lovely local shops for a reman 4R100, I don't want to drag it down into the basement to rebuild it myself, and the craigslist transmission gamble would cost about as much as just rebuilding it myself and doing it right. Starting to think about getting ZF6 swap parts together because I think I've pulled enough E4ODs and 4R100s for one lifetime
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Nov 15, 2021 04:59
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Man as much as I love the looks and performance of Brembo brakes, the sight of the pad retaining bolts fill me with anger. I spent days drilling the fuckers out after they had bonded to the calipers. gently caress that poo poo.
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Nov 15, 2021 18:09
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Yerok posted:Now my dilemma is that I don't want to pay one of my lovely local shops for a reman 4R100, I don't want to drag it down into the basement to rebuild it myself, and the craigslist transmission gamble would cost about as much as just rebuilding it myself and doing it right. 4R100s are piss easy to rebuild but its still a lovely 4R100. Do all the upgrades or uhh yeah 6 speed swap it. 7.3 ZF6 are not cheap. I've been eyeballing the conversion for years. $2800 for a standard reman and $3500 for a cryotreated zf6 on ebay. I hate the early zf5 almost enough to justify it myself.
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Nov 15, 2021 18:24
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Not my cars, but I helped put new rear shackles on a Ram 2500 on Friday/Saturday (delayed by local bolt availability, mostly a pretty easy job), then fixed bad headunit wiring (failing to turn off with ignition) on, added a double DIN CarPlay headunit to, and "fixed" a sunroof issue on a friend's GTI on Sunday. Mostly went really smoothly, I have no idea why Al & Ed's Autosound (original installers of his old headunit) wired constant power to switched power - like, they added in a harness adapter, all that stuff basically correct, but they cut a looped constant power wire and spliced in the switched input for the headunit. There's no way they didn't know that wouldn't work. The "fix" for the sunroof (which intermittently opens and closes itself ... just VW things, I guess) was to pull the fuse  Oh, and a fully sikk burnout happened on the Cummins 2500, too. Impressive amounts of smoke from the tires and the exhaust. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 18:33 on Nov 15, 2021 |
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Nov 15, 2021 18:30
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heffray posted:Then I fixed the front toe using painter's tape and a laser level, as described here: https://nasaspeed.news/tech/suspension/setting-toe-with-a-laser-level/. Toe settings were way off, which makes me wonder how much those (torn?) bushings were flexing the last time the car was aligned. Gotta love it  Nice to see the car getting some TLC after thrashing
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Nov 15, 2021 19:07
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Yerok posted:Now my dilemma is that I don't want to pay one of my lovely local shops for a reman 4R100, I don't want to drag it down into the basement to rebuild it myself, and the craigslist transmission gamble would cost about as much as just rebuilding it myself and doing it right. Would the transmission from a Lincoln Navigator work? It's a 4R100, though admittedly behind a gasser. I'd think it'd be a fairly safe bet for one that's been lightly used.
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Nov 16, 2021 01:37
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cursedshitbox posted:4R100s are piss easy to rebuild but its still a lovely 4R100. Do all the upgrades or uhh yeah 6 speed swap it. I found a complete 2001 being parted out locally, everything for the ZF6 swap for $2500 pulled and ready to load up, and the kicker is it comes with a non ESOF transfer case. e: now i gotta hurry the gently caress up and slam some bellowed up pipes in before I put another transmission in the way e2: neighbors definitely enjoying watching the process of my remaining sanity being washed away by gallons of burnt atf  STR posted:Would the transmission from a Lincoln Navigator work? It's a 4R100, though admittedly behind a gasser. I'd think it'd be a fairly safe bet for one that's been lightly used. Different bellhousing, different pump gears & feed holes, and a lotta other stuff unfortunately Yerok fucked around with this message at 05:03 on Nov 16, 2021 |
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Nov 16, 2021 04:08
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both the 271 and 273 are 24 spline behind a 7.3 ZF6, 31 spline for the 6L ZF6 which won't bolt to a 7.3 anyway. You should be able to bolt your ESOF 273 case right and send it. (they're internally nearly identical with the 273 having a synchronizer and ofc the electric shift motor) Do the up pipes now while its easy. old fords. they do that to your sanity.
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Nov 16, 2021 05:43
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Tried to start my 7.3 today and it hydro locked. I’m also missing coolant. Let’s play a game. gently caress.
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Nov 16, 2021 06:04
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the spyder posted:Tried to start my 7.3 today and it hydro locked. I’m also missing coolant. Let’s play a game. gently caress. My money's on injector cups. My 7.3 is shamefully still running on the same coolant it came with <checks watch> 8 years ago? oh dear. It's unbelievable how much abuse and neglect that truck has put up with. but it needs new batteries right now and i'm teetering on just pulling the drivetrain and scrapping it. Powershift fucked around with this message at 07:30 on Nov 16, 2021 |
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Nov 16, 2021 07:27
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