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His Divine Shadow posted:MW means Medium Wave, there's also Long Wave (LW) and Short Wave (SW). If it makes you feel any better about your situation, our MW and SW is just full of frothing jesus nutters anyway
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Nov 8, 2021 19:11
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actionjackson posted:speaking of alarm clocks, I'd love to get an analog one, but how do you deal with there being no am/pm setting for the alarm? do you have to turn it off and then turn on the alarm again every day so it doesn't go off every 12 hours instead of 24? The ones I've seen had a lever that you move to enable the alarm, and then move back to stop it once it was ringing. I guess you'd just have to learn to set it to the right position when going to bed each night.
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Nov 9, 2021 00:39
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PDP-1 posted:The ones I've seen had a lever that you move to enable the alarm, and then move back to stop it once it was ringing. I guess you'd just have to learn to set it to the right position when going to bed each night. This is such a hoot hearing peeps speculate on how to use a mechanical alarm clock
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Nov 9, 2021 01:13
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petit choux posted:This is such a hoot hearing peeps speculate on how to use a mechanical alarm clock I just assumed since it's analog it has no way to differentiate between am/pm
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Nov 9, 2021 01:16
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Don't forget to wind it before you go to bed too!
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Nov 9, 2021 01:19
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Sagebrush posted:Don't forget to wind it before you go to bed too! do you have to wind that braun one? hmm maybe i'll just buy a rooster, seems easier
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Nov 9, 2021 01:25
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I had an analog alarm clock as a kid. It was electrical though. It knew the difference between AM and PM. You couldn't see if it was AM or PM of course, the way to figure it out was to turn on the alarm and advance the alarm-dial until it hit the current time, if the time was say 8PM and it went off, then you knew the alarm was now set to 8pm. And from that you can reason out that you can just adjust it ahead to next morning to when you want it to wake you up. It'd also work if it did not ring, then you would know it was set for 8AM and if you needed to wake up at 6 you'd move it back two hours. And after that you don't need to keep fiddling with it.
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Nov 9, 2021 07:54
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Reminds me of this story about the history of glowing clock hands and radium poisoning in the Waterbury's Radium Girls. https://connecticuthistory.org/waterburys-radium-girls/
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Nov 10, 2021 00:39
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Arduino and embedded thread seems to be archived so I guess I'll ask here. CAVEAT: Entirely a thought experiment. I am neither competent or dedicated enough to try something like this: Is it conceivable that an MCU could take the commands sent by an uncommon LCD driver (LC7981 in this case) and translate them in time to drive an LCD board expecting input from a completely different LCD driver? Scenario is that Akai samplers from the mid 90s used a weird setup where the LCD driver board was on-motherboard and the LCD itself was backlit and kind of crappy. It may be possible to find an LCD module that meets the dimensions of this device and can be driven by an LC7981, but the problem is that a lot of these LCD modules seem to already incorporate the driver on-board so I guess technically you could accomplish what I'd want by just figuring out how to disable the on-LCD driver and feed the commands from the motherboard driver instead. conversely, newer devices used LCD panels powered by chips compatible with the T6963C driver and mercifully didn't try to include the actual driver on the motherboard so it's a super simple matter to order one from china, do a little pin rearranging and you can replace your LCD for like $30. In my mind there's some kind of kludge solution where you can put an arduino or other MCU in between the output of the LC7981, have it bit-bang interpret the commands it's receiving then re-encode them as commands to feed the T6963. So again, I want to stress, this is not a question that's going to launch me into a project. I'm not dedicated or competent enough to do any of the above. I guess I'm just asking whether it's feasible, and if it isn't if there is some alternate thought experiment that can be done. I mean I guess in theory in this thought experiment there's nothing stopping me from saying "re-interpret the input into a VGA signal output" either. I'm hoping this isn't one of those "better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak and to remove all doubt" kinds of questions.
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Nov 10, 2021 20:24
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Maybe, depending on how timing sensitive things are. Using a FPGA or CPLD (writing a circuit description instead of a sequential program) would be the more typical way to do something like that because latencies will be smaller and more deterministic
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Nov 10, 2021 21:15
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If you're talking about listening to the wires that drive the LCD panel itself, after the driver IC, whether you use an MCU or an FPGA, you'd probably also need to do some level shifting from whatever they're driving that LCD with to logic levels. A lot of these older panels used like 10V or more. If you want the contrast knob to still work, you would also need some way to measure that voltage level. Not impossible but it'd require a custom board.
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Nov 10, 2021 21:59
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Stack Machine posted:If you're talking about listening to the wires that drive the LCD panel itself, after the driver IC, whether you use an MCU or an FPGA, you'd probably also need to do some level shifting from whatever they're driving that LCD with to logic levels. A lot of these older panels used like 10V or more. If you want the contrast knob to still work, you would also need some way to measure that voltage level. Not impossible but it'd require a custom board. I thought so at first too but I looked up the chip and it's some weird intermediate thing that just takes input from the processor, maps it to characters or bitmaps or whatever in its own (external) display RAM, and then sends out the appropriate digital and clock/sync data to a completely separate driver chip.
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Nov 10, 2021 22:04
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So a good thing to point out is that I don’t actually know how LCD panels typically work and I’m doing a LOT of guessing without having read any datasheets. In my experience, when I have replaced panels I see that a lot of them have a (and I’m going to butcher the terminology because I don’t actually know what it is) master-driver and multiple sub-driver chips which I presume are responsible for actually addressing small sections of pixels on the physical LCD, all on board the actual LCD panel. So I guess what I had in mind was a scenario where you tap the output of the old master-driver and bitbang that into alternate instructions to a whole new master-driver, OR bitbang that same data into instructions that the new sub-drivers can understand. The more I say this out loud the less feasible and more complex it sounds and now presumably it would be easiest if I could intercept the actual device’s instructions to the on-board master-driver and just convert those into instructions that the new master driver on the replacement LCD can understand. But after saying it out loud it does seem like a whole lot of work. Somehow I never really considered FPGAs but you’re right, that would be a more suitable solution overall.
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Nov 10, 2021 22:10
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Those are super low speed signals. So to answer the question: Yes, 100%. Depending on voltages, may need a small amount of supporting circuitry FPGAs are massive overkill for it
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Nov 11, 2021 00:05
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I am working on this old shortwave radio and taking it apart was a PITA because I had to desolder several very small cables, when putting it back I nudged the FM tuning cord with the soldering iron and it snapped. I fixed it temporarily but i think I need to replace the whole cord. Fortunately I have a diagram of just that. I got two questions: -What's suitable as tuning cord? -Are there any small cable connectors for tiny wires and the like which don't take a lot of space? It'd be much easier to take this apart if I could just disconnect the wires in the middle instead of desoldering. They should be as small as possible and also easy to disconnect again.
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Nov 11, 2021 05:43
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Repost from ML. I'm having a hard time understanding if what I want to do is actually possible. I have a Raspberry Pi. It's old, from like 2014 or so. I learned that you can use it as a USB host for USB-MIDI controllers, e.g. the Arturia Minilab MKII, and forward the MIDI data from the controller to another MIDI port via ALSA/aconnect. That leads me to believe that I can hook up a handful of these:  to the RPi, assumedly via GPIO. But I'm having trouble understanding how to make the RPi recognize them as ports - it's clearly not just a matter of plopping a bunch of connectors onto a breadboard. How would an RPi recognize a connector as a MIDI port? How do you accomplish this via GPIO? And how do you duplicate that message across 4~5 of these connectors at a time?
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Nov 12, 2021 03:29
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Looks like it's just reading a serial stream at 31.25kbit/s and then decode it into 8 bit words with whatever(if any) error correction. Sounds like if you daisy chain the devices together you can include up to 16 channels Looks like it runs at 5v so nothing exotic, might even be able to slurp midi directly off of pins 15/16 You'll need to handle power for the midi circuit, and it looks like midi data uses a 220 ohm resistor for some reason, will need to look into that
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Nov 12, 2021 08:08
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Something like this? https://www.instructables.com/PiMiDi-A-Raspberry-Pi-Midi-Box-or-How-I-Learned-to/ Or this: https://thepihut.com/products/midi-board-for-raspberry-pi
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Nov 12, 2021 08:11
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Got my hands on a toroidal isolation transformer, 220-220V 1000VA
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Nov 12, 2021 12:57
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Apropos of nothing, if I'm looking for community repo of 3D printed parts I go to thingiverse or a site like that. Is there an equivalent for PCBs and general electronics projects without hunting through github, for example?ante posted:Something like this? Might get more specific answers in the Rpi thread, but when I had to get a /dev entry for an ALSA MIDI device I used the virmidi kernel module which creates a virtual sound interface with proper /dev/snd devices that you can then connect to your ALSA MIDI device via aconnect. In my instance I was using the bluez Bluetooth MIDI server but should work for any MIDI device that is ALSA discoverable. If you're following the serial GPIO MIDI thing then you should be able to use the /dev/ttyNNNNNNN device files to communicate to the port as described above  Feel free to ping me if you have any questions on what I did, though the benefit of my experience is very hacked together  some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 15:09 on Nov 12, 2021 |
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Nov 12, 2021 14:32
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Martytoof posted:Apropos of nothing, if I'm looking for community repo of 3D printed parts I go to thingiverse or a site like that. Is there an equivalent for PCBs and general electronics projects without hunting through github, for example? Tindie is more of an Etsy analog, but that's all that comes to mind. Hosting free designs for other people to download and fabricate is a tough business model. Thingiverse only stays up because they're basically a loss leader for the 3d printer industry, and even then, they've had some close calls.
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Nov 12, 2021 15:27
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His Divine Shadow posted:Got my hands on a toroidal isolation transformer, 220-220V 1000VA Yeah, we get it, buddy, you're following the Arduino arc lamp tutorial.
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Nov 12, 2021 15:37
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The what? Sorry that whooshed over my head.
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Nov 12, 2021 16:26
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Sorry it was a yoke
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Nov 12, 2021 16:42
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Martytoof posted:Apropos of nothing, if I'm looking for community repo of 3D printed parts I go to thingiverse or a site like that. Is there an equivalent for PCBs and general electronics projects without hunting through github, for example? OSH park has a section for people who made their pcb layouts public. It doesn't have any documentation about them though because it's solely for buying other people's pcbs but sometimes the authors link to their own blog or something with more info. Hackaday has a project log section that is closer to the thingiverse model. The amount of documentation available depends on the user and lots of times isn't really enough to reproduce their stuff.
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Nov 12, 2021 18:54
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Martytoof posted:Apropos of nothing, if I'm looking for community repo of 3D printed parts I go to thingiverse or a site like that. Is there an equivalent for PCBs and general electronics projects without hunting through github, for example? JLC-PCB and EasyEda both have this I think, but tied to their platform (which isn't necessarily bad as an option, I've had great experiences with them)
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Nov 12, 2021 19:14
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Cory Parsnipson posted:OSH park has a section for people who made their pcb layouts public. It doesn't have any documentation about them though because it's solely for buying other people's pcbs but sometimes the authors link to their own blog or something with more info. I've often wished that OSHPark would let you upload a PDF along with your board design. Lumping the schematic, a BOM, and some build notes all together with the PCB would be pretty convenient for users and likely also generate some increased sales for them. I guess they'd have to find some way to deal with the odd person who just uploads their dick pics over and over. e: It might be interesting if OSH Park gave the person who uploaded a project a cut of the PCB sales, it'd be motivation to post useful stuff.
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Nov 12, 2021 23:03
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If OSH park did SMT assembly I'd be all about them. Founder seems like a bro, but I don't have a use case without assembly.
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Nov 12, 2021 23:09
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PDP-1 posted:I've often wished that OSHPark would let you upload a PDF along with your board design. Lumping the schematic, a BOM, and some build notes all together with the PCB would be pretty convenient for users and likely also generate some increased sales for them. Sounds like a cool project for a web dev goon. Let me get in contact with my resident machine learning dick pic detection guy. 
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Nov 12, 2021 23:24
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We got some new LED panels to replace fluorescent fixtures and this set has an adjustable color temperature switch. How do they pull that off? Are some of the phosphors not responsive to some of the LEDs wavelengths? Do they just turn on some extra red?
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Nov 12, 2021 23:33
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taqueso posted:Do they just turn on some extra red? More or less, yes. There's usually just two sets of LED's that it changes the mix of to adjust the color temp.
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Nov 13, 2021 01:26
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PDP-1 posted:I've often wished that OSHPark would let you upload a PDF along with your board design. Lumping the schematic, a BOM, and some build notes all together with the PCB would be pretty convenient for users and likely also generate some increased sales for them. Ehh, KitSpace is a thing that has been trying to do that, but it just isn't that appealing in practice. Assembling electronics you design is hard, assembling something someone else designed is even harder (wrt part substitutions or supply chain logistics), and for small quantities, it'll cost more than just buying something on Etsy. taqueso posted:We got some new LED panels to replace fluorescent fixtures and this set has an adjustable color temperature switch. How do they pull that off? Are some of the phosphors not responsive to some of the LEDs wavelengths? Do they just turn on some extra red? Yeah, they have some cool white LEDs and some warm white LEDs, and the switch just controls which proportion of them are one.
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Nov 13, 2021 01:30
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Cory Parsnipson posted:Sounds like a cool project for a web dev goon. Let me get in contact with my resident machine learning dick pic detection guy. Teabagging my scanner to generate a training source for the neural net right now. ante posted:Ehh, KitSpace is a thing that has been trying to do that, but it just isn't that appealing in practice. Assembling electronics you design is hard, assembling something someone else designed is even harder (wrt part substitutions or supply chain logistics), and for small quantities, it'll cost more than just buying something on Etsy. Yeah, sometimes during my day job working at a university science lab I see people chucking out thousands of dollars for a National Instruments control system to run something like a sample annealing furnace that needs at most a 0.1Hz sampling and control response rate and I think that I should make an open source DAQ system. Start with an Arduino Uno base, then make stackable boards that you can build yourself to do digital IO, analog IO, thermocouple readers, etc. and put it all online. Users could order the boards from OSH Park, the parts from DigiKey, solder it up and done. It could solve a lot of people's problems for cheap, but the competent folks would sort out any issues for themselves while the dumbasses would pester me for support, leaving me to deal mainly with dumbasses all day long. That prospect 100% kills my motivation.
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Nov 13, 2021 06:02
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PDP-1 posted:Teabagging my scanner to generate a training source for the neural net right now. "They ask who is John Galt. John Galt saw what a load of dumbasses he'd be flogging himself for and decided to go put his nutsack on the scanner instead." Dagny's grip intensified. She had to know where this man was, what had become of him. -- Yan Rand, Atlas Ghosted petit choux fucked around with this message at 10:39 on Nov 13, 2021 |
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Nov 13, 2021 10:09
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Howdy, I'm about to post a thread on me trying to fix an old MIDI sound module. I don't know anything about electronics, so I wouldn't be surprised if there was a little bit of the old magic blue smoke involved. I figured you guys might know if this is a thread for HCH or if should I just go to GBS where people can laugh at me? tia
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Nov 16, 2021 14:35
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crusty posted:Howdy, I'm about to post a thread on me trying to fix an old MIDI sound module. Try unplugging it, waiting ten seconds and then plugging it in. There's also the synthesis thread and the DIY musical gear threads. There's a lot of expertise that can help you there, too, though a few of my favorite posters post in all of the above. I for one would be interested if you document your efforts with photos. I've got some interest in those sound modules.
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Nov 16, 2021 15:02
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I'm sure we could help or at least tell you which of the bits inside your midi controller look like they might have been on fire some time in the past, sure, post away.
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Nov 16, 2021 15:04
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petit choux posted:Try unplugging it, waiting ten seconds and then plugging it in. Thanks! I just took a look at those - I guess this will be more electronics and less music, so maybe HCH is the better bet. Yep, there will be photos and probably a couple of vids as well at some stage!
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Nov 16, 2021 15:32
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crusty posted:Thanks! I just took a look at those - I guess this will be more electronics and less music, so maybe HCH is the better bet. Yeah, well several of the people in the synthesis thread know their hardware pretty well. You can always put a question up there too if you need to.
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Nov 16, 2021 15:34
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Shame Boy posted:I'm sure we could help or at least tell you which of the bits inside your midi controller look like they might have been on fire some time in the past, sure, post away. It's a distinct possibility! Thanks, I might end up posting some specific questions in here. I'll also be heading through the start of this thread since I could probably use a primer...
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Nov 16, 2021 15:39
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