|
Yes, that’s effectively correct.
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2021 16:42
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 20, 2024 11:49 |
|
|
I wish there were some top-down resin 3d printers available at a decent price point. They're just so cool, plus you get that whole "object rising from the resin" show at the end of a print. Here's an old video of one printing some stuff, which is kinda boring for most of the video until the end when the finished print starts rising out of the resin. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jpNTPTsGHnM Biggest place you can gently caress up in a build for one of those is between the wiper and the top of whatever you're printing, but it seems like resin displacement/use while printing won't be a problem as long as you have the vat filled to the right level when you start (because the printed object volume will be in the vat until the part is finished).
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2021 16:58
|
|
|
Sockser posted:Just got a Mars 2 and I’m like 8 failed rook prints in Sockser posted:Given that it works with an opaque resin but not transparent, what should I do? Turn up layer exposure time? Any time a print fails completely on an entire non-base layer (as in, the entire layer doesn't print) it is almost always a USB/file-related issue. Once you get the base layers sticking to the build plate, each successive layer is curing to the previous. This resin-on-resin bond is super strong and there's no way the current layer can stay stuck on the FEP when the top of it is welded to the previous layer. The USBs that come with the machines are super cheap and fail often. I have more than 10 of the elegoo USBs and just ended up buying new ones since those failed so often for me. I don't understand why changing the resin made it work for you, unless you resliced the file you were printing?
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2021 17:03
|
|
|
InternetJunky posted:Any time a print fails completely on an entire non-base layer (as in, the entire layer doesn't print) it is almost always a USB/file-related issue. Once you get the base layers sticking to the build plate, each successive layer is curing to the previous. This resin-on-resin bond is super strong and there's no way the current layer can stay stuck on the FEP when the top of it is welded to the previous layer. The USBs that come with the machines are super cheap and fail often. I have more than 10 of the elegoo USBs and just ended up buying new ones since those failed so often for me. 100% just added a bit of grey into the vat of clear and hit print. Still had a tiny bit of "delamination" (not the right word for resin printing, I suppose) on part of the rook, and my wash station covered them in glitter (I need to clean that alcohol out wow) but otherwise yeah, two successful rooks, with no change other than resin. e: actually maybe soaking a print in an alcohol/glitter slurry is the way to achieve the glitter print effect I've been looking for
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2021 17:38
|
|
|
Sockser posted:100% just added a bit of grey into the vat of clear and hit print. Not sure then. Maybe a read error for that layer... On a different topic, I just dropped an entire opened, litre bottle of resin on my floor. fml
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2021 17:43
|
|
|
I pulled the trigger on a Mars 3 off Amazon after going around in circles with the loving Yo-Yo's at goddamn anycubic until I couldn't take it and returned everything I ordered. I'm excited to take it for a spin on Friday when it shows up
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 01:38
|
|
|
goddamnedtwisto posted:Just idle curiosity, but presumably with resin printers the printing time is determined purely by exposure time and number of layers, so it would take the exact same amount of time to print 1 benchy or 10 (assuming they'd all fit on the plate)? More or less, yeah. Filling up a bed is one of the best and worst parts of resin printing. It's great because even very small printers can really crank out miniatures. It's terrible because I always feel like printing just one small miniature or part is a "waste," so I end up using a ton of resin since I'm filling out my bed almost every time I print.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 04:34
|
|
|
PleasantDirge posted:I pulled the trigger on a Mars 3 off Amazon after going around in circles with the loving Yo-Yo's at goddamn anycubic until I couldn't take it and returned everything I ordered. I'm excited to take it for a spin on Friday when it shows up Speaking of Mars3 though, does anyone know of a flex plate being made to fit it?
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 05:06
|
|
|
Paradoxish posted:More or less, yeah. Hey, at least it's not SLS where they throw out half the leftover powder after every print
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 05:07
|
|
|
InternetJunky posted:Congrats. I'll be slowly moving all my Mars2 printers over to Mars3 as I'm quite happy with the one I have, even if it arrived DOA. Wham bam has them up now for $53 PleasantDirge fucked around with this message at 05:23 on Nov 11, 2021 |
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 05:19
|
|
|
PleasantDirge posted:Wham bam has them up now for $53 Thanks, although that's kind of crazy expensive!
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 05:28
|
|
|
InternetJunky posted:Thanks, although that's kind of crazy expensive! That's for 2 plates and a magnet, it's $38 for the single plate
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 05:36
|
|
|
InternetJunky posted:Congrats. I'll be slowly moving all my Mars2 printers over to Mars3 as I'm quite happy with the one I have, even if it arrived DOA. Is the mars 3 a much better printer than the 2? Love my 2, but honestly going forward the Saturn's really seem like the sweet spot for bed size
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 07:46
|
|
|
Cory Parsnipson posted:You want the bed to be immaculate at all times. You should clean the plate with a clean sponge and dish detergent. Scrub it thorougly and then rinse both sides until you don't see any suds. Give it some extra rinsing to make sure the soap is gone and then dry with clean paper towels. It's important you don't touch this directly with your hands or get anything oily on it (I use kitchen gloves that I only use to handle the sheet to do this entire part). A lot of problems with adhesion come from oils on the bed. Here's the base of the piece which failed prior to my first post, after removing the brim (click for big):  Cory Parsnipson posted:You want the bed to be immaculate at all times. You should clean the plate with a clean sponge and dish detergent. Scrub it thorougly and then rinse both sides until you don't see any suds. Give it some extra rinsing to make sure the soap is gone and then dry with clean paper towels. It's important you don't touch this directly with your hands or get anything oily on it (I use kitchen gloves that I only use to handle the sheet to do this entire part). A lot of problems with adhesion come from oils on the bed. Today I thoroughly cleaned the print bed, and left the preheat going for a bit longer, and I got the same issue as before I'd tried with the glue. Here's the underside of that print:  I didn't try steel wool keying the bed yet.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 13:44
|
|
|
Jaded Burnout posted:Here's the base of the piece which failed prior to my first post, after removing the brim (click for big): Looks to me that the nozzle is too far away from the bed, or you’re underextruding. EDIT: if it were me I’d get the nozzle closer to the bed first. I’ve seen similar issues before and it was purely distance to the bed, for me. Here4DaGangBang fucked around with this message at 13:54 on Nov 11, 2021 |
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 13:51
|
|
|
Jaded Burnout posted:Here's the base of the piece which failed prior to my first post, after removing the brim (click for big): Nozzle is a little too high, the brim should be all connected together and the bottom should be pretty smooth. Probably the cause of the adhesion issues as well. https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/live-adjust-z_112427
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 13:54
|
|
|
OK. I'm already pushing pretty close to the suggested 1500μm limit for z-adjust but there's still a couple hundred left I can play with. After that I assume I'll need to look at moving the sensor a little.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 14:16
|
|
|
There are some huge printer deals on AliEpxress right now for their 11/11 sale. I just picked up another Sovol SV03 for just about 50% off after coupons and discount codes. Looks like Elegoo and Anycubic have some pretty steep discounts too.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 14:50
|
|
|
Acid Reflux posted:There are some huge printer deals on AliEpxress right now for their 11/11 sale. I just picked up another Sovol SV03 for just about 50% off after coupons and discount codes. Looks like Elegoo and Anycubic have some pretty steep discounts too. Some of the Voron 2.4 kits are down at $820 if you don't mind waiting for shipping from China (vs. the usual $1,000+).
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 15:06
|
|
|
Acid Reflux posted:There are some huge printer deals on AliEpxress right now for their 11/11 sale. I just picked up another Sovol SV03 for just about 50% off after coupons and discount codes. Looks like Elegoo and Anycubic have some pretty steep discounts too. Any specific tricks to get the coupons/deals or is it just browse and hope? Anyway, I fried the mainboard of my Tronxy X5SA. Pardon the e/n but does anyone know if there's a way to diagnose if the steppers are still usable? Don't get a Tronxy X5SA unless you're happy with it bone stock. All I wanted to do was get a direct drive extruder to hopefully resolve stringing issues. That sent me down a world of pain and futzing. Stock firmware doesn't let you reverse the direction of the extruder. Gotta put Marlin or Klipper on it. Doing so is a warranty-voider, of course, because you gotta clear the bootloader and do other fun stuff. Documentation to do so is out there, but you gotta be an IT professional to understand the nuances and steps. OK, fine, whatever. The Marlin part? Documentation went to stuff that refused to compile firmware. Finally figured it out, updated the wiki that the Tronxy Discord maintains. Cool. Oh yeah, there's no real way to mount the Orbiter direct drive extruder, which the Tronxy Discord recommended. The printable objects to do so kinda work but don't fully secure themselves against the hotend carriage. Screws and hope worked, at least, but then someone said that I had to adjust the reference voltage on the board, because it'd be running the direct drive extruder too hot and end its life early? Okay, fine, lemme do so... oh wait, the measuring of the voltage means you gotta really know how to use a multimeter... ... then when I opted not to do that, anything that printed in a straight line printed in a sine wave??? Or it'd just grind the steppers, doing nothing. Okay, fine, let's put Klipper on it. Tricky procedure but I understood the steps. At least until setting the Z-offset. Since Klipper (at least this Klipper) didn't support the LCD, you're doing this all in Octoprint. When you run the CALIBRATE_PROBE routine and save the Z-offset, it never actually saved. Gotta go set that manually in the config. Okay, fine, done. Then it started to grind again. Back to Marlin to see if that maybe would do something, the grinding persisted. I took the pulleys off the steppers and tried moving axes. The steppers barely moved, and when I held the shaft with my finger, it wouldn't push past it. Tried probing the voltage on the PSU. Found a video that described how to do it. I misread it. It said "switch the multimeter to AC at the highest voltage for your region." I took that to mean "switch to the highest DC voltage on the multimeter." Probed the N and L terminals. The sound of a spark, the light fixture flickered, the printer went dead. Swapping out the cable, no luck. Swapping out to a spare known good PSU, no luck. The board is fried. So yeah. I don't know if all this stuff I did aced the steppers. Is there an easy way to test them? I can at least get an SKR or some other board, and pay someone on Fiverr to configure and compile Marlin, but I don't want to embark on resurrecting this thing if the components are no good anymore. It'll be a nice enforced break from trying to make this work. I should have gotten a Prusa or put together a Voron - at least those have lots of instructions, good sized user communities, and no proprietary Chitu boards. MJP fucked around with this message at 15:31 on Nov 11, 2021 |
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 15:10
|
|
|
w00tmonger posted:Is the mars 3 a much better printer than the 2? Love my 2, but honestly going forward the Saturn's really seem like the sweet spot for bed size I guess I should clarify - as my Mars2 machines start dying I'll be replacing them with Mars3. There's certainly not enough of a difference to warrant throwing away a perfectly good Mars2. In terms of overall print resolution I'm almost convinced there is no visible difference between a 2k and 4k print now, and even though I screwed up my first tests on this I'm going to redo some comparison prints again and post some good macro shots and let you guys see if you can spot a difference. I have two Mono X machines instead of the Saturns because my experience with the saturns was pretty horrible (one arrived completely DOA, the second needed a new LCD after 1 week of printing). I like the bigger machines but it's really nice to have a bunch of smaller ones so I can pop off some quick prints in between big orders.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 15:51
|
|
|
Okay I knocked the print head down a bit further and it’s producing nice smooth panels. Proof will be in the pudding but it looks much more likely to work. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 16:53
|
|
|
Also I put the printer on a sheet of rigid insulation and holy poo poo it’s so much quieter when it’s not using the whole desk as a resonator. New topic, other than the benefit of not having to clear and restart the print, is it faster to print multiple copies at once, spread over the print area?
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 17:13
|
|
|
Jaded Burnout posted:New topic, other than the benefit of not having to clear and restart the print, is it faster to print multiple copies at once, spread over the print area? I don't think so for FDM printing. Print time is mostly a function of how many miles the print head has to move to create the object. Resin printing might be different.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 17:18
|
|
|
withak posted:I don't think so for FDM printing. Print time is mostly a function of how many miles the print head has to move to create the object. Resin printing might be different. Isn't it slower for FDM to print multiple since the print head has to move to each print on each layer? As for resin, print 1 or 100 it's the same speed (so print 100!).
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 17:20
|
|
|
InternetJunky posted:Isn't it slower for FDM to print multiple since the print head has to move to each print on each layer? Yeah, travel time between instances would add time. The slicer should be minimizing that though. Not sure that adds up to more than or less than the setup/cleanup time for each object.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 17:24
|
|
|
Jaded Burnout posted:Also I put the printer on a sheet of rigid insulation and holy poo poo it’s so much quieter when it’s not using the whole desk as a resonator. Depends entirely on how good a job you did setting your printer up/what your failure rate is and whether you want to print multiples like that. I mean, it's great if you have tall objects that will take a long time if you have a setup you trust to run without failing over however many days (to cover not having to swap build plates overnight or whatever) but outside of that the actual print time itself ends up being about the same. At least that's what has happened when I did it (printing beds full of pumpkin-shaped whistles for Halloween handouts, etc.). The job would take about 13 hours to print a full bed of parts, which averaged out so that I was starting a new bed each day after work and cleaning the previously-printed-on-bed for the next day.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 17:35
|
|
|
With FDM a fail of one could be a fail of all, depending on what you're printing. There've been a couple times I had to babysit builds after one model started going spaghetti to prevent it from ruining the others.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 17:35
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:Some of the Voron 2.4 kits are down at $820 if you don't mind waiting for shipping from China (vs. the usual $1,000+). I'm not building a voron YET but what is the consensus on kits vs sourcing different or better individual parts? My limited reading says getting entire kits is kinda against the intent of it and frowned upon
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 17:45
|
|
|
Roundboy posted:I'm not building a voron YET but what is the consensus on kits vs sourcing different or better individual parts? My limited reading says getting entire kits is kinda against the intent of it and frowned upon I think it's the same kit Tom Sanladerer bought and posted a review/livebuild video series on. Here is the livebuild series (which ought to get into all of the details of where he got everything and what he chose not to use and source separately): https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLDJMid0lOOYnIDwhpx7VdRdkhYRRoJeht Here is the final review of the kit build: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0E0dM0ZdpRE&t=697s EDIT: Looking at his affiliate link for the kits, you can get them slightly cheaper at around $760 here Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 17:52 on Nov 11, 2021 |
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 17:50
|
|
|
Guest2553 posted:With FDM a fail of one could be a fail of all, depending on what you're printing. There've been a couple times I had to babysit builds after one model started going spaghetti to prevent it from ruining the others. Prusa have an option for it to finish one print before starting the next for the reason, but still not a failsafe (and you have to be careful about placement so the printer doesn't run into completed ones).
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 18:16
|
|
|
Jaded Burnout posted:Prusa have an option for it to finish one print before starting the next for the reason, but still not a failsafe (and you have to be careful about placement so the printer doesn't run into completed ones). It will factor that into its auto arrange assuming a standard prusa printer or a printer with the head profile set correctly. I've never once been able to arrange stuff in a way it was happy with. And yeah, resin printing is purely a factor of height. It takes as long to cure a full build plate as a single object
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 18:20
|
|
|
Jaded Burnout posted:Prusa have an option for it to finish one print before starting the next for the reason, but still not a failsafe (and you have to be careful about placement so the printer doesn't run into completed ones). Cura does this as well, and even lets you tell it the dimensions of your print head relative to the nozzle to let you safely do so. I've done it a few times and it is a time saver compared to either setting up each individually or even the default of printing them all at once (bearing in mind doing them all at once will almost certainly leave you with some spiderwebs and roughness on the printed parts).
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 18:22
|
|
|
I'll stick with one at a time. 32 chess pieces in time for Christmas at 4 hours each.. should be OK.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 18:24
|
|
|
Jaded Burnout posted:I'll stick with one at a time. feels like a job for a resin printer
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 18:43
|
|
|
I've never been able to see a way where you could do sequential printing where a fully completed part could be done that way. All those head offsets do is tell you how much clearance you can get on X/Y & Z and print however many layers fit in that Z-clearance before moving to the next piece. It reduces the hopping around, but doesn't eliminate it completely.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 18:52
|
|
|
It's entirely possible. You just need a ton of clearance. Imagine printing one small part at the very front of the bed, and another at the very rear. After the front part is done the printer moves to the rear, pushing the finished part out in front, and never bringing it back under the x rail.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 18:59
|
|
|
https://www.help.prusa3d.com/en/article/sequential-printing_124589
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 19:18
|
|
|
I've seen some people get real creative with custom gcode to print an object, then use the print head to knock it off the plate, but that's better suited to mass production of a single object
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 19:22
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 20, 2024 11:49 |
|
|
Deviant posted:I've seen some people get real creative with custom gcode to print an object, then use the print head to knock it off the plate, but that's better suited to mass production of a single object Nice. Maybe next time. (there are 8 pawns of each colour)
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 19:31
|
|