|
Sab669 posted:Or just keep melding sprues down until it's a good consistency? Pretty much this, it takes a bit to dissolve so just keep adding a little more until it feels right.
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2021 01:33
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 03:58 |
|
|
Sab669 posted:Decided to hit the model with the can anyways. Depends on which Stormwall you have. Do you have the older metal/resin one, or the on sprue plastic one? If you have the old metal/resin one, the sprue goo will probably not bond very well. If you have the plastic one, give it a shot, but greenstuff or milliput may be more simple.
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2021 01:59
|
|
|
It's the pure plastic Stormwall-Hurricane box. I should just get over it, but I hate working with greenstuff. And I don't have a spare glass container for sprue glue at the moment, but I'd like to make some in the future...
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2021 02:43
|
|
|
30k is as dead as it ever was: a xpost from HH threadMajor Spag posted:New box game when?
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2021 06:52
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:Decided to hit the model with the can anyways. Pro tip: use actual models for your sprue goo. Really melts down the ole backlog.
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2021 07:58
|
|
|
Eediot Jedi posted:Pro tip: use actual models for your sprue goo. Really melts down the ole backlog. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2021 13:44
|
|
|
 Picked up some the Goliath set for a second gang to play with at home. Got them built and primed last night, ready for transparent paints.
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2021 14:35
|
|
|
 WIP on one of the goliath. I typically start by blocking in all my colors, this way if I need to play with them I can at least put something on the table that's mostly painted. Also, to save time I spend very little effort on more confined or hard to reach/less viewed areas, such as the flesh between his collar and shoulder plate. The skin is all set on this guy, gonna probably do the metal and black next, and then devote some time figuring out the red.
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2021 19:15
|
|
|
 It's a slow work day, so I just finished the test model. edit: Messing with filters 
Verisimilidude fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Nov 9, 2021 |
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2021 20:49
|
|
|
love your necromunda dudes and dudettes, so moody and suit the setting perfectly
|
|
#
?
Nov 9, 2021 21:52
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:It's the pure plastic Stormwall-Hurricane box. Are you adverse to using white modelling putty? 'cause it's braindead simple and fills pretty much any gap you got.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2021 01:27
|
|
|
Big Willy Style posted:love your necromunda dudes and dudettes, so moody and suit the setting perfectly Thanks! I want them to be kinda grim dark and moody, but keep the original schemes from the box art.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2021 02:05
|
|
|
If anyone has purchased Mierce Miniatures, how does the casting quality compare between resin and metal? I'm looking at picking some figs up on sale and I'd rather opt for metal than resin for durability, but I've been burned by some bad metal casting in the past.
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2021 13:14
|
|
|
grassy gnoll posted:Are you adverse to using white modelling putty? 'cause it's braindead simple and fills pretty much any gap you got. Could you suggest a brand? And my issue is that I'm just very impatient. The joins / seams on this Stormwall are actually quite small, so trying to get a thin enough layer of green stuff in place and smooth enough to not stand out seemed more hassle than it's worth. And drat, I went to the art store to pick up some inks after watching a Goobertown Hobbies video, thought this color looked nice:  Didn't realize it actually has some metallic flake in it, so it did not come out at all how I wanted it to. Oh well. Lesson learned - always use a test mini first, even for random one-off projects 
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2021 13:50
|
|
|
here's a bunch of stuff I've been working on: Saurus Knights on Drakespawn Knight Cold Ones   Tzaangors   Curseling  Tzaangor Enlightened WIP  Kroak's Palanquin WIP 
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2021 15:45
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:Could you suggest a brand? And my issue is that I'm just very impatient. The joins / seams on this Stormwall are actually quite small, so trying to get a thin enough layer of green stuff in place and smooth enough to not stand out seemed more hassle than it's worth. Oh hey, it's the daler rowney pearlescent ink line! I haven't heard of anyone using those since I painted my entire ork army in pearlescent macaw green. They might look nice on some eldar
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2021 17:31
|
|
|
Ignite Memories posted:Oh hey, it's the daler rowney pearlescent ink line! I haven't heard of anyone using those since I painted my entire ork army in pearlescent macaw green. That's funny, I'm working on some pearl green Orks right now  Which, incidentally, is exactly why I didn't want another metallic for this side project. This is my first time buying Dalar Rowney, so I'm guessing either the "PW6" or "PV26" on the bottle that would have clued me in to it being metallic 
|
|
#
?
Nov 10, 2021 17:38
|
|
|
I am quite slow at this, but it's still enjoyable. Testing out things and learning what does and doesn't work. The nurgling in particular was the result of a bunch of failed attempts at doing various contrast blends, but I think the kinda gross skin color I accidentally stumbled into sorta works. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 06:13
|
|
|
Wyrd had another painting contest so I entered a couple of minis. I got a combined 0 votes, so room for improvement! I don't care enough about contests to not mess around with stuff, so these are done with oils. I'm still not great with them, but I'd say that I'm getting better. Annoyingly out of focus Blood Hunter.  Hamelin. Need some better eyes everywhere.  Mouse, converted to a burning undead to go with my other fire models. Surprisingly, yellow oils are insanely opaque, so the yellow OSL took over a bit. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 10:06
|
|
|
Cadmium yellows are very opaque but there's a couple yellows that are transparent (but nowhere near as saturated).
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 10:22
|
|
|
Eej posted:Cadmium yellows are very opaque but there's a couple yellows that are transparent (but nowhere near as saturated).
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 10:42
|
|
|
That being said I kinda love the effect anyway
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 11:26
|
|
|
Eej posted:That being said I kinda love the effect anyway It just looks way more yellow than the other figures in the keyword, but, frankly, the others are too orange. Getting this one to fit in with completely new materials wasn't easy at all.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 12:22
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:That's funny, I'm working on some pearl green Orks right now lmao wanna buy my army
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 18:01
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:Could you suggest a brand? And my issue is that I'm just very impatient. The joins / seams on this Stormwall are actually quite small, so trying to get a thin enough layer of green stuff in place and smooth enough to not stand out seemed more hassle than it's worth. I use Perfect Plastic Putty, but they're all basically the same thing. Just make sure you're getting the white filler type and not the grey Tamiya death-goo and you should be set. Keep in mind while it's easy to squish white putty into tiny little seams, you are going to have to let it dry and sand it back down a little. If that seems like it's too much effort, you might want to consider either liquid green stuff, making some sprue goo, or using some of the thicker Mr. Surfacers.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 18:25
|
|
|
I used Testors gap filler putty way back in the day, and I'm pretty sure it's just premixed spackle in a tiny tube. Worked great though!
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 19:40
|
|
|
grassy gnoll posted:I use Perfect Plastic Putty, but they're all basically the same thing. Just make sure you're getting the white filler type and not the grey Tamiya death-goo and you should be set. I'm cool with some light sanding. That's what turns me off greenstuff is that it's not very sandable, so you just gotta work it down crazy thin.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 19:45
|
|
|
Tamiya goo owns though
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 20:00
|
|
|
Anyone have advice on using milliput white? I haven't been able to find the useable point between dry chalky and uncontrollable slime.
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 20:51
|
|
|
MasterBuilder posted:Anyone have advice on using milliput white? I haven't been able to find the useable point between dry chalky and uncontrollable slime. If you mix miliput with rubbing alcohol you can make a paste that can be brushed on to models. Video here
|
|
#
?
Nov 11, 2021 21:02
|
|
|
One rule of thumb I've seen is that green stuff is good for organic shapes and white/milliput is good for more hard edges. I have no idea how accurate that is. [edit] Aw yeah, lighting upgrade.  So far so good. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07MHH9Q7B Aranan fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Nov 12, 2021 |
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 00:55
|
|
|
Aranan posted:One rule of thumb I've seen is that green stuff is good for organic shapes and white/milliput is good for more hard edges. Too clean, work in a single clear 6 inch squared area of your desk like the rest of us.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 02:49
|
|
|
Also you are bang on about greenstuff vs milliput.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 02:50
|
|
|
50/50 milliput:green stuff is god's own sculpting medium
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 02:52
|
|
|
Aranan posted:One rule of thumb I've seen is that green stuff is good for organic shapes and white/milliput is good for more hard edges. Is the depth "adjustable"? More specifically, could it fit 'over' an airbrush booth? I have 2 lovely LED lamps flanking my booth that I'm not in love with
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 03:03
|
|
|
2 lovely IKEA Tertial's with good bulbs is enough for any hobbyist though
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 03:08
|
|
|
I can make it bend so that it's about 25" vertical and 12" forward from the back of the desk while still pointed down. The bendy arm part is really flexible--I can twist the light to be completely vertical and pointing to the left or right without any issue.Eej posted:2 lovely IKEA Tertial's with good bulbs is enough for any hobbyist though Yeah, that'd work fine too. I was using two RANARPs. I think the key is to not have it taking up space on the desk and have a long enough arm that you don't bonk your head on it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 03:10
|
|
|
I don't usually post works in progress but I'm pretty chuffed with how this banner for my Deathwatch Ancient is turning out:  First time making and printing my own decals and finally getting to use some from Mighty Brush that I've had for months.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 04:09
|
|
|
AndyElusive posted:I don't usually post works in progress but I'm pretty chuffed with how this banner for my Deathwatch Ancient is turning out: Hot drat!
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 04:11
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 03:58 |
|
|
Getting together some paints and general knowledge before I start on this miniatures thing. What's the best varnish to use on metals? If I only get one varnish for now, should I go for satin or matte? I'm planning on using regular non-contrast paints and a couple vallejo metal colors.
|
|
#
?
Nov 12, 2021 07:08
|
|