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so the grooves are very narrow, and raised above the surface? I'd look at all the cutting edges very closely some of them are nicked somewhere. The machining thread may have some useful input too, CNC guys use a lot of those corncob mills.
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Nov 17, 2021 04:43
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I've only just removed every single one today to try to fix this very issue. Might just be lovely machining, this stupid thing was like 40 weeks back ordered. All of the cutters are brand new. Like maybe 10 passes in. I installed it, tested it, found the grooves, sulked for a bit, then got around to cleaning and reseating today. Cannon_Fodder fucked around with this message at 05:22 on Nov 17, 2021 |
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Nov 17, 2021 05:19
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Do the grooves line up to a row of teeth? I've had something similar on a large fly cutter with one tall insert. It left a spirograph groove in my block.
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Nov 17, 2021 06:55
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Last weekend, I finally got around to cutting the mounting rails for the legs on the butcher block folding table I'm making. I couldn't keep the tiny bandsaw on track to save my life, so after work today I got a chance to clean up the slots the legs groove into with the belt sander and some rasps/files at work. Pics after I clean it up some more, but I'm finally within spitting distance of finishing this project. A friend of mine was giftbandoned an oscillating drum sander so I'm gonna hit her up to try to clean up all the geometry and get it all reasonably square. update: she has just offered it to me. Cannon_Fodder posted:https://i.imgur.com/czUS6HQ.jpeg Lightweight machining person here (not familiar with planers though). That's... odd. If inserts were out of position, the problem would be localized to those inserts, right? I wonder if you're getting some vibration while it runs, or something's up with the cutter head bearings.
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Nov 17, 2021 07:12
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Cannon_Fodder posted:I've only just removed every single one today to try to fix this very issue. Might just be lovely machining, this stupid thing was like 40 weeks back ordered. I have an identical issue with my shelix-converted 735, and have just been living with it since I have a drum sander to chuck things through to clean them up. Hope you find a solution I can copy, though.
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Nov 17, 2021 11:16
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My solution so far has been to use my freshly acquired #5 1/4w - Thanks Veritas seconds sale! 
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Nov 17, 2021 14:47
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I'm looking to switch to stand alone drill press and band saw to free up some space on my bench. Should I be looking strictly at the stand alone models, or are there bench tops that are worth a poo poo that I could just mount to a stand?
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Nov 17, 2021 14:52
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A floor standing drill press can be a tad more useful in edge cases but they're mostly pretty much the same heads mounted on top of a 6' column instead of a 3'. It's a much more significant distinction in a bandsaw, you can't reasonably fit all the poo poo going in one into a benchtop form factor and keep anything like the same functionality.
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Nov 17, 2021 16:22
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I have a (10") bench top bandsaw and (12") drill press - I've never wanted a bigger drill press, but I want a bigger bandsaw every time I use it.
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Nov 17, 2021 16:25
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From what it sounds like, anything under a 14" bandsaw is mostly a toy.
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Nov 17, 2021 16:36
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Cool, I'll keep an eye on marketplace then.
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Nov 17, 2021 16:36
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Rufio posted:From what it sounds like, anything under a 14" bandsaw is mostly a toy. I know a lot of people keep a small bandsaw with a thin blade for cutting tight curves, and a 14" or larger with a resaw blade on it, for resawing, ripping, etc. I plan to get a 14" at some point, but I'm probably not going to get rid of my 10", it takes up very little space.
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Nov 17, 2021 16:44
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Use what you got and all but if you're shopping for tools a scrollsaw would do that job way, way better
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Nov 17, 2021 17:01
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A Wizard of Goatse posted:Use what you got and all but if you're shopping for tools a scrollsaw would do that job way, way better I wouldn't want to use a scrollsaw to cut anything thicker than maybe .5", so it really depends on your use case. But yes, scrollsaws are the go-to for making tight curved cuts in thin material. Do benchtop drill presses allow you to tilt the table to do differently-angled drills? I feel like that's one of the big advantages of the free-standing type.
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Nov 17, 2021 18:10
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I wouldn't want to use a scrollsaw to cut anything thicker than maybe .5", so it really depends on your use case. But yes, scrollsaws are the go-to for making tight curved cuts in thin material. Mine does (an older 12" blue Ryobi). I can't think of anything I could do with a floor-standing drill press that I can't do with mine, except drill in very tall stock.
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Nov 17, 2021 18:18
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more falafel please posted:Mine does (an older 12" blue Ryobi). The floor-standing one I just picked up (second-hand Porter-Cable that looks like it's never been used, it's $480 at Lowe's and I paid $200) has a 4" plunge instead of a 2", which is nice, but I mostly got it because the HF cheapo acts like it's gonna rattle itself apart and I want to be able to ream out a 16" leg without thinking about it. The HF has a tilting table but I wouldn't trust it at 90 degrees for much, let alone 45.
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Nov 17, 2021 18:36
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Cut a 2 1/2x8x24" live edge floating shelf today from the same wood I showed yesterday. It is really loving white (Especially compared to the natural white oak flooring). I've got to decide how to finish it.
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Nov 17, 2021 19:14
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EVERYWHERE 
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meatpimp posted:Cut a 2 1/2x8x24" live edge floating shelf today from the same wood I showed yesterday. It is really loving white (Especially compared to the natural white oak flooring). I've got to decide how to finish it. BLO might bring it closer to that color... rationale: that's how it worked when I was oiling up my hurl. It's white ash and looks closer to finished oak. In other news, the tiny epoxy pour I did yesterday seems to have gone really well. I took the tape dam off and despite some minor woopsies (getting the heat gun too close to one of the tape dams, for example), it all turned out well! I'm surprised with how well the epoxy cuts under chisel/plane. Now I can move on to finishing my table top, cutting stretchers, and getting my wife off my rear end. 
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Nov 17, 2021 19:24
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We're closing on a house on Monday, and despite not looking forward to moving in 25-30*f temps I am definitely looking forward to a heated 6 car garage and pulling my tools out of storage. Building another workbench is high on the list because mine got shredded before when we moved across the country to our current apartment. But I'll have a serviceable built in and only about a month before x-mas, so building the wife a bath table might be top of the agenda.
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Nov 17, 2021 20:33
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Question: so, I've been working on my first workbench which is based on the anarchist's workbench (with a couple of changes to the benchtop) and having just about finished the benchtop am about to start working on the legs etc. Planning to attach the base using drawbored mortice and tenon like in Schwartz's and was wondering if it's possible/feasible at a later date to remove the pegs and separate the bench in to two halves to move it? Would the joints lose any of their integrity or would I just need new pegs? Reason I ask is that I was working in my cellar when I started this bench but as we've had some water ingress there recently I've been in the garage, not sure how permanent that's going to be and if I finish up the workbench in there, there's no way it's going into my cellar in one piece when we've waterproofed it.
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Nov 17, 2021 20:55
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Drawbored pegs are intended to only be installed once: the hole in the tenon is offset to the hole through the mortise and the peg is sorta mangled inside as it pulls them together. If you could manage to get the peg out without damaging the holes, I suppose you could re-do it, but I'd just assume you can't get it out without boring through with a new hole... which would then not be offset. If you want to be able to dissassemble, take a look at the knockdown designs like the Roubo and consider a through-tenon with a wedge. Those are intended to be disassembled but are still plenty sturdy.  You can probably modify your design by using through-tenons and not have to change much or anything else.
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Nov 17, 2021 21:42
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meatpimp posted:Cut a 2 1/2x8x24" live edge floating shelf today from the same wood I showed yesterday. It is really loving white (Especially compared to the natural white oak flooring). I've got to decide how to finish it. I think I'm switching my thoughts on what this wood is to basswood. I cut some today and on a shallow edge cut got a bunch of stringy fibers. Plus, this is weighing in at about 2.5 pounds per board foot, which is just way too little for maple. Kinda sucks, I was planning on making a workbench with this, along with some hardwood floating shelves, but I'm sure I'll find some use for it. Regarding my thoughts on this being hard -- something's not set up properly with my planer. I've got it set to make a 1/32" cut and it works hard, but I can put it through again without adjusting cut depth and still getting motor load. It looks like the depth of cut gauge is reading too low of a cut for what the machine is actually attempting. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Nov 17, 2021 |
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Nov 17, 2021 22:46
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Mortises for leg vise finished Long stretchers cleaned up and inserted.
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Nov 17, 2021 23:01
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Leperflesh posted:Drawbored pegs are intended to only be installed once: the hole in the tenon is offset to the hole through the mortise and the peg is sorta mangled inside as it pulls them together. If you could manage to get the peg out without damaging the holes, I suppose you could re-do it, but I'd just assume you can't get it out without boring through with a new hole... which would then not be offset. Yeah I assumed as much, might have to leave a decision for a while until I figure out where I’m likely to want the bench.
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Nov 17, 2021 23:10
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Nov 18, 2021 00:31
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not sure if this is the best thread to ask or not, is anyone here pretty familiar with the blum tip-on systems?
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Nov 18, 2021 00:37
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Nice table! It matches your space really well.
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Nov 18, 2021 00:40
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I wouldn't want to use a scrollsaw to cut anything thicker than maybe .5", so it really depends on your use case. But yes, scrollsaws are the go-to for making tight curved cuts in thin material. Fair enough but I wouldn't do tight curves in much thicker stock than that in a bandsaw either, that's just asking for a blade pinch Tilt tables are pretty universal once you get out of the range of 'too cheap to install one more pivot". It's generally way faster for me to just cut an angled jig than fuss around with calibrating mine, but the option's there I guess
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Nov 18, 2021 01:23
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meatpimp posted:I think I'm switching my thoughts on what this wood is to basswood. I cut some today and on a shallow edge cut got a bunch of stringy fibers. Plus, this is weighing in at about 2.5 pounds per board foot, which is just way too little for maple.
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Nov 18, 2021 01:53
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Nice!
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Nov 18, 2021 03:06
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This is a remarkably good match for that black veneer ikea puts on a lot of stuff. That's not a backhanded compliment, I assume it's more like the ikea stuff is trying to look like yours.
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Nov 18, 2021 04:49
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Arsenic Lupin posted:Got any friends who are luthiers or carvers? They will be delighted. Got in touch with the auction company and they refunded my money, so I"m only out time and travel. I've got it posted to FB marketplace, but had no idea how to price it. Google search shows ~$3 per board foot, but that seems really high. I can get maple for that. I put the price at $700, which is about $1.25/bf and I hope that's a good deal for someone to jump on. Then I can buy more wood.
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Nov 18, 2021 19:54
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Latest buying spree from Lost Art Press showed up today. Got Kitchen Think, The Workbench Book and Shop Tails. Planning on a partial kitchen renovation next year, looking forward to all the inspiration in the kitchen think book.
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Nov 18, 2021 20:55
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meatpimp posted:... ~$3 per board foot, but that seems really high. I can get maple for that. Napkin math says I could fly out there today, rent a U-Haul, load up, drive back, and break even at about 5 anarchist's workbenches worth of wood. That's way more tempting than I want to admit. My Christmas present to myself this year might take the form of creating a hardwood shortage in the Midwest.
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Nov 18, 2021 21:48
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Jhet posted:Nice table! It matches your space really well. HolHorsejob posted:Nice! Thank you!!! And thank you all for your help!!! go for a stroll posted:This is a remarkably good match for that black veneer ikea puts on a lot of stuff. That's not a backhanded compliment, I assume it's more like the ikea stuff is trying to look like yours. Tyty! Yep, that’s the reason I did an ebony stain. IKEA beats me in terms of a consistent, even finish, but mine will last way longer (I already need to replace the desk).
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Nov 18, 2021 22:54
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Pollyanna posted:Thank you!!! And thank you all for your help!!! Tbf, it's easier to get a consistent, even finish on a plastic surface than one made of real wood
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Nov 18, 2021 23:24
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 Babby's first through-tenons on babby's first table. 
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Nov 19, 2021 05:11
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actionjackson posted:not sure if this is the best thread to ask or not, is anyone here pretty familiar with the blum tip-on systems? Yes, I use them all the time. What would you like to know?
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Nov 19, 2021 07:03
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This thing is starting to look like a proper table! Too heavy to solo flip, given the lack of floor space in my basement shop. I'll have help tomorrow afternoon and will post the top view. Very hyped, I sanded it all to 220 and plan on finishing with a half dozen coats of Danish oil with a light sanding in between. Is that too much smell or fumes in a basement? I have no experience with finishes so any advice is welcome. This is to be my dinner table and in not totally sure what would work best for making sure my idiot friends ruin the finish 
Cannon_Fodder fucked around with this message at 06:44 on Nov 20, 2021 |
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Nov 20, 2021 06:36
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That's a good looking table! The fumes from most brands of danish oil probably won't be an issue, though any ventilation you can muster would be a plus, and I personally wouldn't linger after an application. It's a good, fairly durable finish, which should work well for regularly-used furniture; a wipe-on poly would be my choice, though it doesn't look quite as nice. Ikea also sells their finish blend under the Stockaryd name, and it works beautifully without adding much tint to the wood.
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Nov 20, 2021 08:47
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