|
FogHelmut posted:https://www.etrailer.com/question-340825.html The difference is that in a recovery scenario the load is being applied to the pin at roughly a single point, potentially dead center between the two points where the pin is in contact with the receiver, providing some leverage between the two. With a receiver installed, the load is applied to the pin at two points, more or less immediately adjacent to where that load is then applied to the receiver. However I won't pretend to know how much of an actual difference this makes because I'm no engineer either. I will admit that in searching I've only found one actual "yes, I've personally witnessed a bent pin" post so this fear is probably mostly unfounded, and yes recovered is absolutely better than not. With that said you can get an actual hitch to shackle adapter for  at Harbor Freight, so it's also trivial to prepare for.
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2021 03:57
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 18:49 |
|
|
FogHelmut posted:Was sitting at the top of Maple Springs where it meets Main Divide road doing a shakedown run since I installed the Bilsteins and am driving to Flagstaff and Sedona Thanksgiving week, and a Rivian drove up. The guy works at the HQ in Irvine and was testing it out. He said it was his first time driving off road, then he casually went over an obstacle that a lifted Tacoma and Silverado Trail Boss were having issues with. Electric/hybrid vehicles are going to make gas burners obsolete because of their absurd power. You have a Tacoma, right? The sway bar could be creaking if its shifting in the bushing, but I don't know if that would make a clunking noise. I didnt want to deal with the drop down brackets when I lifted my truck, so I ended up ordering longer end links. https://overlandcustomdesign.com/products/forged-ball-joint-sway-bar-links I haven't heard a peep from my front end under any circumstances, and the shop who installed the lift really liked them.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2021 04:03
|
|
|
Vampire Panties posted:Electric/hybrid vehicles are going to make gas burners obsolete because of their absurd power. Chevy Colorado. It's not a full clunk. Not like a ball joint. But it's not a creak. It's somewhere in between. Only hits once per side if I'm going over a bump while turning. Like if I'm turning left, it hits the right side. But not if I turn left again. I'd have to turn right, then it hits the left side, then I turn left and it hits the right side.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2021 04:14
|
|
|
FogHelmut posted:Was sitting at the top of Maple Springs where it meets Main Divide road doing a shakedown run since I installed the Bilsteins and am driving to Flagstaff and Sedona Thanksgiving week, Oh I missed this, what trails are you going to hit? I want video of that thing coming down Devil's Staircase  If you want to rule the swaybar in/out, disconnect it and see if the noise goes away.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2021 04:36
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Oh I missed this, what trails are you going to hit? I want video of that thing coming down Devil's Staircase I can probably make it down there but going up looks pretty wild. I have to see what I can squeeze in between all of the family stuff. I'm 100% hitting Sunset Crater/Cinder Hills near Flagstaff, but haven't had a chance to plan around anything specific for Sedona yet. I was looking at Schnebly Hill, but mainly want to get to the sights.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2021 04:51
|
|
|
FogHelmut posted:Chevy Colorado. It's not a full clunk. Not like a ball joint. But it's not a creak. It's somewhere in between. Only hits once per side if I'm going over a bump while turning. Like if I'm turning left, it hits the right side. But not if I turn left again. I'd have to turn right, then it hits the left side, then I turn left and it hits the right side. I really don't know anything about Chevy Colorados, but IFS is generally the same between all trucks these days. If you can see the sway bar connected to the spindle on both sides, and you can see the bushings are bolted to the truck, than its probably OK. With your description of the timing and the need to 'reset' by turning left/right/left to generate the noise in the same spot, it sounds like something is sliding around up front. Honestly it sounds like my ancient Bronco II where the battery slid around in the tray until bungie corded it in place. I'd assume there isn't room in the Colorado engine bay for that, though, but maybe the dust cover that modern engines have? FAKE EDIT - I went and googled Colorado IFS, and it really could be your end link. Seems like the end link goes straight down into the lower control arm, w/o an extra articulation point. To compare, the Toyota end link has two joints. If the end link had play on the attachment to the lower control arm, than I could see that back/forth being an issue.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2021 05:27
|
|
|
Devil's Staircase is supposed to be treated as a one-way-only loop - the climb to the top of it is far easier than trying to climb the stairs themselves. Cinders is a fuckload of fun. Schnebly Hill Road might be partly closed by the time you get there depending on weather. It's open now all the way between Sedona and I17 but gets closed for the winter at some point. The road itself is poo poo because it's completely non-technical but rides like a nearly 11 mile long rock garden. The views are so loving good that it's worth it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2021 05:33
|
|
|
FogHelmut posted:Was sitting at the top of Maple Springs where it meets Main Divide road doing a shakedown run since I installed the Bilsteins and am driving to Flagstaff and Sedona Thanksgiving week, and a Rivian drove up. The guy works at the HQ in Irvine and was testing it out. He said it was his first time driving off road, then he casually went over an obstacle that a lifted Tacoma and Silverado Trail Boss were having issues with. The rear sway bar on my 4Runner is clanky as hell. The bushings aren’t tight so the metal washers clink against the frame. The nuts are threaded on all the way too. I don’t know I’m not the one who put them on so I probably just need some longer ones if I want to keep the sway on?
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2021 06:11
|
|
|
Vampire Panties posted:I really don't know anything about Chevy Colorados, but IFS is generally the same between all trucks these days. If you can see the sway bar connected to the spindle on both sides, and you can see the bushings are bolted to the truck, than its probably OK. It goes right in there. I'm going to get it up on the jack stands tomorrow and shake things around. I had tightened them all the way, then I remembered that's not right, and looked it up, but "until you see them start to squish" doesn't seem very technical. The struts themselves though I very sure those are right, I've done a few before and am very meticulous with them. And the lift is only 1.75", which is not enough to need UCAs, and the alignment went fine anyway. Steve Jorbs posted:I’ll see you there! Thanks for the reminder to actually look up some poo poo to drive on. Are there other recommendations for mild to moderate stuff? More interested in sight seeing than hard wheeling. Yeah this is my first time there. There's Edge of the World drive out of Flagstaff thats pretty long and goes down to overlook Sedona. They say it's a very groomed easy dirt road. Unfortunately it's in and out of Flagstaff, and even though it ends at Sedona, you cant get down there.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2021 07:17
|
|
|
Ifs works way better without a front seat at anyway. My 100 hasn’t had one for about 6 years now and it didn’t have that big an impact on the handling
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2021 11:00
|
|
|
Ferremit posted:Ifs works way better without a front seat at anyway. My 100 hasn’t had one for about 6 years now and it didn’t have that big an impact on the handling Yeah i was going to mention that - the dudes who worked on my truck liked my sway bar setup and end links, but they were also like..'why are you putting a sway bar on and not taking it off' At least for the Tacomas, most of the spindle gussets and/or LCAs eliminate the sway bar mount entirely. I can actually sorta talk about how my truck runs w/o a sway bar, because the truck shop guys messed up tightening the front sway bar after the initial 500 mile shakedown, and the bolt on one side came loose (and cut the boot on my cv shaft and covered the whole wheel well in grease  ) I didn't notice it at the time, I did hear some clunking like what FogHelmut described but not in the same pattern. On one hand, it was nice because the front wheels could soak up big road differentials better, but it wasn't as fun to drive on the street. I also had a rear sway bar installed, so that complicates things.
|
|
#
?
Nov 14, 2021 18:18
|
|
|
I don't think I'll ever put the minivan's front sway bar back on. It makes a noticeable difference in offroad traction (esp because fwd), and I don't drive aggressively on pavement. I suppose I'll change my mind if I have to do an emergency maneuver on the freeway and lose control.
|
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2021 01:09
|
|
|
If this wasn't my daily I'd take it off. Anyway, I checked everything out - it's still all tight. The sound could be a single creak from the sway bar. I ran out of time to take it off completely, but I'm still going to get longer end links and remove the drop bracket. The end links are tightened until they're touching when the wheels are on the ground, but noticed a tiny space between the bottom bushing on the sway bar and the sway bar when the wheels were off the ground. Probably could be tightened a bit. I'd still rather get new ones though as Chevy's bushings are hollow plastic instead of solid rubber or polyurethane. FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Nov 15, 2021 |
|
#
?
Nov 15, 2021 04:39
|
|
|
Would this be the right place to ask about SxS's for ag work?
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2021 00:28
|
|
|
Yes, especially the ones with 200 hp turbo engines.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2021 00:45
|
|
|
ryanrs posted:Yes, especially the ones with 200 hp turbo engines. Not quite that exciting unfortunately. I'm tossing up between the Yamaha Viking and the Kawasaki Mule for agri work on a very steep and windy property in rural Australia and was looking for some pointers in either direction about which one would be the better way to go. The Kawi is slightly more expensive but has the options for a closed cabin, front winch and hydraulic lift for the tray. It's also slightly more powerful. It seems like it has less clearance but possibly a better approach angle. The Yamaha is slightly cheaper but less powerful, with bigger storage capacity. Both have options for diff locks but I'm a bit of a newb in the 4x4/offroading space so any feedback regarding which would be the better option for going up steep as gently caress grass hills would be much appreciated.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2021 03:44
|
|
|
DumbparameciuM posted:Not quite that exciting unfortunately. I'm tossing up between the Yamaha Viking and the Kawasaki Mule for agri work on a very steep and windy property in rural Australia and was looking for some pointers in either direction about which one would be the better way to go. The Kawi is slightly more expensive but has the options for a closed cabin, front winch and hydraulic lift for the tray. It's also slightly more powerful. It seems like it has less clearance but possibly a better approach angle. The Yamaha is slightly cheaper but less powerful, with bigger storage capacity. Both have options for diff locks but I'm a bit of a newb in the 4x4/offroading space so any feedback regarding which would be the better option for going up steep as gently caress grass hills would be much appreciated. ryanrs posted:Yes, especially the ones with 200 hp turbo engines. I don't know anything about SxS or UTVs but would love to learn. Some of them run 35" tires?!?!?!!
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2021 16:21
|
|
|
Speaking of tires, I'm apparently on pace to only get 27,000 mi out of my Goodyear Wranglers that came with my truck. They're rated for 60k, but I don't know if my city driving is taking a larger toll on them due to all the starts and stops. I definitely don't drive aggressively because I don't like paying for gas (definitely going to hit $5 next week here in socal) or tires. The stock size is 30" but I think you can go up to 32" without any need for trimming or offsets or other complications. I'm looking for another AT, preferably that doesn't weigh much. This still gets mostly driven on the road, and I don't want to kill my gas mileage or power output. I know the BFG KO2s are popular, but they're 13 lb heavier than the Wranglers in the stock size. TireRack seems to love Cooper Discoverer, but as a former Subaru guy, the Yokohama Geolandar is calling me. I'm open to any suggestions or recommendations for whatever your favorite tire is.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2021 16:57
|
|
|
I've liked my set of Falken Wildpeak at3w. Inexpensive, lighter weight, good traction in snow. Haven't managed to put a hole in em yet... Not sure about the tread life though. Also I think the tire guys might have had trouble balancing them but it might have just been a crappy shop. Edit: My kevlar wranglers that came on the truck took a rock straight through the tread on just a normal forest road, couldn't trust those tires.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2021 17:11
|
|
|
I think someone in here recommended the Yokohama Geolander to me when I was looking for something similar for a jeep grand cherokee, so they're probably not bad. I ended up going with the Falken Wildpeaks and I'm pretty happy with them both on and off road, they aren't particularly loud or anything and don't seem to have tanked my mileage compared to the H/Ts that were on it before. Not sure about wear yet really as I only have maybe 6-7k miles on them.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2021 17:12
|
|
|
Funny enough, the KO2 is the only all terrain I've owned that I wasn't happy with in some manner - but that's as much due to the fact that they wouldn't loving balance for poo poo and I didn't buy them through a shop that would actually stand behind them. Outside of the balancing issue they were fine. The Falken Wildpeak AT3W is hard to say no to if you can get a good deal on them in your size. I went with the Bridgestone Dueler A/T RH-S on my Canyon but that's a very mild all terrain tire that I wouldn't actually take on a trail, I just wanted better traction on dirt roads / driveways (and they were cheap as gently caress at Costco). I haven't tried any Cooper all terrains but I'm very happy with their Evolution M/T. Not that I'd recommend it for anyone who isn't hitting trails on the regular, because those fuckers are loud.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2021 17:26
|
|
|
Very happy with my Kenda AT2s. https://automotive.kendatire.com/en-us/find-a-tire/onoff-road-off-road/klever-at2/
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2021 18:10
|
|
|
Does anyone have thoughts on a F-150 powerboost with the offroad package vs a Dodge Ram 1500 turbo diesel with the offroad package? My buddy wants to buy a new truck and is debating between the two of those. He has no need for a truck at all but may be towing something in the future, and would probably join me on some light trails. I'm more curious just as to the overall experience, not the offroad capability, but I didn't see a general truck thread. I'm assuming the F-150 would be a better option but he says the recent surveys have ranked the Dodge as more reliable. I also wouldn't do the diesel personally as he barely drives anywhere, but I guess it would help with mileage (he wants the 33gal tank too).
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2021 19:57
|
|
|
Anecdotally, all the Dodges I've driven working for the government have been dogshit... Fords less so. None were diesels though. Also judging by flags and bumper stickers, Dodge Rams are the unofficial truck of racist, gun worshipping shitheads.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2021 20:52
|
|
|
Another Falken Wildpeak AT3W user here. I barely offroad at this point, but they're amazing in the snow, not too loud, and didn't appreciably change my gas mileage from the Michelin non-AT tire the GX470 had in it from the PO.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2021 21:30
|
|
|
MomJeans420 posted:Does anyone have thoughts on a F-150 powerboost with the offroad package vs a Dodge Ram 1500 turbo diesel with the offroad package? My buddy wants to buy a new truck and is debating between the two of those. He has no need for a truck at all but may be towing something in the future, and would probably join me on some light trails. I'm more curious just as to the overall experience, not the offroad capability, but I didn't see a general truck thread. I'm assuming the F-150 would be a better option but he says the recent surveys have ranked the Dodge as more reliable. I also wouldn't do the diesel personally as he barely drives anywhere, but I guess it would help with mileage (he wants the 33gal tank too). I have a F-150 hybrid with the FX4 package. It's been good so far. The hybrid helps with gas mileage (I've gotten up to 29 mpg on some trips) and gives you the most hp and torque. It is also standard with a 36 gallon tank. I can't speak to towing but the FX4 package is pretty basic. Light trails would be fine. I've done some forest service roads with no issues. If he is looking for a F-150 that can balance towing and offroad and isn't dead set on a hybrid the Tremor might be a better option. Zero One fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Nov 16, 2021 |
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2021 21:37
|
|
|
I had cooper a/ts before and didn't much care for them, they were noisy and didn't work terribly well on wet roads or in the mud. Now I'm running ko2s and am pretty happy with their performance off road. They seem pretty tough so the extra weight does have some benefit too.
|
|
#
?
Nov 16, 2021 23:32
|
|
|
Toyo AT’s are a good thing too- I’ve run a couple of sets of their AT II’s and heard really good things from their AT III’s (which aren’t in Australia yet) I’m running their Mud Terrains at the moment and they’re a brilliant off-road tyre with good road manners, but they aren’t light, they aren’t quiet and they aren’t cheap! I’ve got KO2’s on my work hilux and I don’t like them. They’re not as good as the original KO’s in terms of wear life or grip off-road, marginally better in noise but handle like crap on wet roads- it’s really easy to find the limits with them compared to other brands.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2021 00:22
|
|
|
sexy tiger boobs posted:Anecdotally, all the Dodges I've driven working for the government have been dogshit... Fords less so. None were diesels though. I've driven some really lovely Dodges which is why I was wondering, but I get that a work truck and a car built for rental fleets may have different QA standards. Zero One posted:I have a F-150 hybrid with the FX4 package. It's been good so far. The hybrid helps with gas mileage (I've gotten up to 29 mpg on some trips) and gives you the most hp and torque. It is also standard with a 36 gallon tank. Light offroad capabilities are all he needs. My only friends with trucks have F-150s and they've been fine which is why I surprised whatever survey he saw had them lower than Dodge Rams in terms of reliability. And 29mpg sounds insane to me, my GX 460 gets around 16mpg on freeway with some traffic and in the 12s around town.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2021 01:56
|
|
|
I've got those wildpeak AT3Ws on the Honcho and honestly I have not been very impressed. They have like a quarter inch of tread (which should be more than enough for the conditions) and I still got stuck on wet grass. Literal wet grass on my lawn. I had to wait till it had dried for a day before I could drive out of the drat yard. Admittedly this was on a 2wd open diff truck but I've driven my 2wd (prior to swapping anyways) Comanches in and out of that yard probably a hundred times in every kind of weather except snow on street tires with no issues so yeah, I'm not super impressed. I still got my money's worth since the falkens on the Honcho were $250 for 4 on a complete set of the exact wheels to fit the truck and I needed tires less than 5 years old on it to move cross country, but they kind of stink traction wise, at least compared to winterforces, wilderness ATs, and BFG ATs.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2021 03:42
|
|
|
sexy tiger boobs posted:Anecdotally, all the Dodges I've driven working for the government have been dogshit... Fords less so. None were diesels though. My wife popped in with some random factoid a couple of weeks ago that drivers of Dodge trucks are issued the most DUIs.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2021 05:59
|
|
|
From https://ramlover69.com/:
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2021 07:12
|
|
|
highme posted:My wife popped in with some random factoid a couple of weeks ago that drivers of Dodge trucks are issued the most DUIs. As a dodge truck driver this doesn't surprise me very much.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2021 07:19
|
|
|
Probably a vote in the wrong direction, but BFG KO and KO2s have literally never failed me. They're quiet on the road, you can get them in a ton of sizes, and they wear really well. Knock on wood, but I've never even had so much as a flat with them, and I put a hard 30k miles on a set of 315/70r17s and they were still good to go. Caveats- they can be slippery on oily roads, like socal after it rains, and they dont really self-clean in mud. However they are FANTASTIC in the snow. And just because nobody has mentioned them itt, there are also Nitto Trail/Ridge Grapplers, which are an AT or an AT/MT hybrid. I personally haven't used them, but a friend of mine has used Nitto exclusively on his jeeps for years now. The AT especially is supposed to be a light, durable tire with good traction. Vampire Panties fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Nov 17, 2021 |
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2021 18:37
|
|
|
I've loved our KO2s, especially off road and in the snow. And at 30,000+ miles they're still looking great. But they are definitely not inspiring on wet pavement. I can't really comment on how that compares to other tires, though, since they're my first all terrains.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2021 18:44
|
|
|
MomJeans420 posted:I've driven some really lovely Dodges which is why I was wondering, but I get that a work truck and a car built for rental fleets may have different QA standards. MPG will really depend on what you are doing. 29 mpg I can get driving around 55 in suburb and rural areas. If I'm on the freeway doing 70 I might only get 20-22 mpg. Towing will be much lower but I haven't done that personally.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2021 18:48
|
|
|
I like KO2's grip offroad, but I've lost one KO2 to a sidewall puncture, and another has a decent gash but isn't leaking. A third one was probably destroyed when I destroyed my wheel, mechanic is going to check it out. At this rate I don't think treadwear will ever be an issue for me. (I spend a lot of time driving over/into big rocks. YMMV.)
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2021 19:47
|
|
|
I've had good luck with my goodyear duratrac tires. I have done thousands of towing with them lately and they are wearing great. They are absolute poo poo in snow, though. But i have snow tires or that.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2021 20:48
|
|
|
I've had a lot of fun with my Grabber ATx. Had them since June and been in all conditions including sand and snow. Great tires for a great price. Plus, they are studdable.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2021 23:04
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 18:49 |
|
|
So speaking of tires, is there a relationship between wheel width / tire width / sidewall vulnerability? Right now I have 15x6.5 steel wheels with KO2 215/75R15 tires, generally run 15-20 psi offroad. This combo is right at the limit wrt scrubbing at steering extremes. But should I be thinking about offsets, different widths, or whatever? I don't know tire science at this level. I guess this is mostly theoretical, since I can't imagine the difference is amazing enough to buy a whole new set of 5 wheels+tires.
|
|
#
?
Nov 17, 2021 23:16
|
|