|
Why does the light meter inside the viewfinder on my Pentax K-50 work for modern lenses but not my old-as-hell telephoto lens? I thought the system that did it was just looking at incoming light and making a judgement but maybe there's something in the modern lenses that is doing the sensing work?
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2021 17:27
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 1, 2024 21:52 |
|
|
I don’t know anything about Pentax but there is likely some linkage between the lens and camera that tells the camera what aperture is selected (or the offset from wide open) that isn’t on the old lens or support for was removed on the modern body. It would probably help people that do know about Pentax if you revealed what specific lens you’re having trouble with.
|
|
#
?
Nov 18, 2021 18:23
|
|
|
huhu posted:Anyone have any good resources for learning more about black and white? I feel like right now I'm either Check out Ansel Adam's The Negative. Although the Zone System is probably not so applicable if you're not doing your own darkroom LF sheet development, the book is still a good read overall. And like EEPROM said, shoot for black and white, not converting color photos.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2021 09:34
|
|
|
If you can shoot mono in raw, then obviously that is the way to go, but in my experience, that is not an option unless you have a dedicated mono camera (which I highly recommend owning, but $$$). So an alternative is to set the creative style to bw, as this will help you visualize the world in bw (because the screen will be showing a bw preview). But then you have to pinky-promise yourself to actually convert the raw image to bw. The conversion will allow you to make adjustments in post, which on a mono camera are only possible with color filters (again, a totally fine approach, but $$$). Shooting just a handful rolls of bw film convinced me that I wanted a mono camera, so I bought a second A7R3 and had it converted. Still waiting on that sucker to arrive. Edit: What I am trying to get at is that don't just take the jpg files that the bw creative style of your camera created from your raws. theHUNGERian fucked around with this message at 15:35 on Nov 19, 2021 |
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2021 15:32
|
|
|
what on earth no if you want to shoot B&W on digital go familiarize yourself intimately with the channel mixer
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2021 17:09
|
|
|
shame on an IGA posted:what on earth no if you want to shoot B&W on digital go familiarize yourself intimately with the channel mixer Obviously that's an important part when shooting bw with a color camera. But previsualizing a scene in bw comes first, hence my comment on setting the creative style, which will only impact the image on the camera screen, not the raw. My comment on being able "to make adjustments in post" was referring to the channel mixer.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2021 17:22
|
|
|
Thats not at all what i was saying.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2021 17:37
|
|
|
Wild EEPROM posted:Thats not at all what i was saying. Whom are you responding to? Edit: I was not trying to put words into anyone's mouth. I was just trying to give my opinion on how to get better bw images. Previsualizing bw is an important step to make that happen imo. Edit2: I admit I misread the original question and started talking about gear when the question was about resources. I have found photo books to be a great resource. "Genesis" and "Forms of Japan" are great and they focus on black and white. Sitting down and dissecting them is great fun. I'll shut up now. theHUNGERian fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Nov 19, 2021 |
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2021 17:57
|
|
|
huhu posted:
the trick is to start processing and scanning the film yourself, so you have the creative control. or at the least, to get used to one type of control at a time, and have a lab process the film, but scan it yourself - this will give you a lot more creative control. giving bw to a lab, in my experience at least, meant getting back dusty/scratchy sometimes/grainy film (because they dev in high temp for quick turnarounds). developing yourself at proper temps will give you nice negatives to work with.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2021 21:30
|
|
|
for ur digital stuff u could get some black and white filters for ur lenses and practice with those and desaturating as u like later. this goes against the conventional wisdom of shoot raw and process the way u want later but it will force you to think differently about your photos and isnt too expensive as a start also if u have lenses for ur film camera that u can use them with too thats a bonus
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2021 21:37
|
|
|
poo poo, I totally missed that. Yeah dude, scan your own film! Lab scans are bad scans.
|
|
#
?
Nov 19, 2021 21:53
|
|
|
Does anyone have any recommendations for like an "Art 101 how to consume a piece of art"? As I follow along in the Landscape thread, there are lots of observations that other posters make that I completely miss. I have no formal art education so I feel like I might be missing out. Also, every youtube search brings up some really weird unrelated poo poo so any specific links would be helpful. Another question - I'm finally getting around to really putting in some effort to understand other people's photos. I've started Walker Evans, Vivian Maier, and Henri Cartier-Bresson. As I look through their photos, I see that I've taken photos in the past that are very similar - composition, story, colors/tones, etc. to photos of theirs. Based on my previous question, I'm not really sure what to make of this. I'm not trying to say my photos are better than any of the photographers I've listed. General thoughts? Last question - Any good apps/services/websites for consuming photography? I'll be on the road for the next few months and don't really have space for photography books.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2021 13:35
|
|
|
My Canon M50 stopped taking pictures randomly. Video still works and I can use the electronic shutter in the scene mode but in normal modes, the screen goes black for a moment as normal but the shutter doesn't trigger. Is there any trick to get it unstuck? I'm travelling in Italy so this is really not cool.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2021 13:52
|
|
|
How would y'all post-process this picture of a Mockingbird? Here's a link to the raw file: https://we.tl/t-7wpTn1T4Fs I'm extremely an amateur but I feel like it has a lot of elements I like: the pose of the bird and the cool branch both feel great to me, I did an okay job of getting it in focus, and I like the fringe in the lower corners. But I can't seem to turn it into a final product I'm proud of. More specifically, it seems like every crop includes something that ruins the composition for me. Maybe I'm just getting too in my head about it and have been looking at it for too long, but I would love y'all's opinion.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2021 20:11
|
|
|
huhu posted:Does anyone have any recommendations for like an "Art 101 how to consume a piece of art"? As I follow along in the Landscape thread, there are lots of observations that other posters make that I completely miss. I have no formal art education so I feel like I might be missing out. Also, every youtube search brings up some really weird unrelated poo poo so any specific links would be helpful. Robert Adams Why People Photograph is very good and I've heard John Szarkowski Looking at Photographs recommended but I haven't read that myself.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2021 22:49
|
|
|
I tried separating the bird from the background but the added contrast mostly just made it look like an entirely different sort of bird. If you are struggling with a flawed photo the right answer is usually just to move on.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2021 23:03
|
|
|
Megabound posted:Robert Adams Why People Photograph is very good and I've heard John Szarkowski Looking at Photographs recommended but I haven't read that myself. I second Robert Adams. Another one of his i like is Beauty in photography. As for educating yourself, and since you're starting from the basics, i recommend doing the free online MoMA course Seeing through photography. bobmarleysghost fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Nov 23, 2021 |
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2021 00:22
|
|
|
huhu posted:Does anyone have any recommendations for like an "Art 101 how to consume a piece of art"? As I follow along in the Landscape thread, there are lots of observations that other posters make that I completely miss. I have no formal art education so I feel like I might be missing out. Also, every youtube search brings up some really weird unrelated poo poo so any specific links would be helpful. I recommend reading Geoff Dyer: The ongoing moment, effectively a story whch allows him to express his thoughts on the important elements of key photographers' styles and themes. Also Phaidon's The photo book, which reproduces famous photographs with explainatory text. The Phaidon book is a primer, the Dyer book more helpful for developing a way of thinking about photographs. Both are doubtless available as ebooks. Seconding the MoMA free course too.
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2021 20:48
|
|
|
Joerg colberg has abook about books too, from s more technical pov for someone looking to make one. Maybe not now but will be useful in the future. He also has a good blog for thinkin about books and art, conscientious photo magazine
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2021 20:52
|
|
|
Hey, I've only really got in to photography this year so this'll be the first winter I've wanted to spend time in the cold outdoors taking pictures. Anyone have recommendations for gloves or general winter photography tips? I'm not sure if some extra protection for my camera is warranted or if it will do fine in the cold, I'm assuming the LCD screen has certain tolerances.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2021 06:10
|
|
|
How cold are we talking? If it's not super cold or you're active enough to generate some body heat I like something like the Fox River Ragg Wool fingerless gloves https://foxsox.com/products/ragg-fingerless-heavyweight-glove I also have some OR lobster mitts with liner gloves that can be handy as well. https://www.outdoorresearch.com/us/mens-highcamp-3-finger-gloves-268055 Glomitts you can flip the mitten portion off of are also handy. I'd like to give a pair of gloves with the index finger that can flip open a try but don't have any experience with them yet.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2021 06:24
|
|
|
I'm in Southern Ontario, there's the potential to get to around 0F here. I also usually just have a strap around my wrist attached to my camera when I'm walking around in the summer so I have a feeling that's going to have to change to a neck strap.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2021 06:36
|
|
|
You’ll also want to be careful going from inside to outside and vice-versa with cameras, probably a lower risk than with high heat and humidity but still something to keep in mind. Camera bags you can keep it in when you don’t want to carry on your shoulder are also good.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2021 07:59
|
|
|
Carry extra batteries because they'll die more quickly.
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2021 10:25
|
|
|
huhu posted:Does anyone have any recommendations for like an "Art 101 how to consume a piece of art"? As I follow along in the Landscape thread, there are lots of observations that other posters make that I completely miss. I have no formal art education so I feel like I might be missing out. Also, every youtube search brings up some really weird unrelated poo poo so any specific links would be helpful. Check out these books: The Nature of Photographs: A Primer The Photographer's Eye (John Szarkowski) Robert Adams: Why People Photograph: Selected Essays and Reviews Examples: The Making of 40 Photographs On Being a Photographer: A Practical Guide How to Read a Photograph: Lessons from Master Photographers Tod Papageorge: Core Curriculum: Writings on Photography John Berger: Understanding a Photograph The Gerry Badger: Pleasures of Good Photographs
|
|
#
?
Nov 24, 2021 15:51
|
|
|
tompepper posted:Hey, I've only really got in to photography this year so this'll be the first winter I've wanted to spend time in the cold outdoors taking pictures. Anyone have recommendations for gloves or general winter photography tips? I do a lot of outdoor portrait photography this time of year and I just got a pair of these https://www.rei.com/product/194716/the-north-face-windwall-closefit-tricot-gloves-mens?color=TNF%20BLACK and they are nice. Not super warm but I can operate the camera fully.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2021 08:45
|
|
|
8th-snype posted:and they are nice. Not super warm but I can operate the camera fully. These look nice, I think I'm mostly worried about protection from the wind rather than insulating my hands fully so these might work well.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2021 19:29
|
|
|
I use a cheap pair of glomitts: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V57ENU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Because everything is operated with a capacitive touch screen these days being able to have a bare finger is super useful. But being able to tuck them into a mitten is super nice too. Everyone experiences cold differently so it's hard to give a rating for how warm they are, but my grown-in-Alaska self has been comfortable with them down to around 5F/-15C with no wind.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2021 19:42
|
|
|
Is there still a newbie thread somewhere? Shopping for a basic but decent beginner's/learning camera for my wife, currently thinking a used Canon EOS Rebel SL3 for sale nearby for $400 w/ lens, case, SD card. Can afford more, but not sure how fancy it makes sense to go before seeing if she really gets into it as a hobby.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2021 23:59
|
|
|
Academician Nomad posted:Is there still a newbie thread somewhere? Shopping for a basic but decent beginner's/learning camera for my wife, currently thinking a used Canon EOS Rebel SL3 for sale nearby for $400 w/ lens, case, SD card. Can afford more, but not sure how fancy it makes sense to go before seeing if she really gets into it as a hobby. It's a poo poo present maybe without the new box feel, but second hand entry level DSLRs and a step up from the kit lens are cheap way to dip your toes and maybe get something a little nicer than the kits body/lens wise for the price, something like a crop DSLR and a 50mm f/1.8 gives that nice shallow DoF portrait look that people associate with real camera photography. Christmas light bokeh balls etc.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2021 12:40
|
|
|
I ended up buying the Sony ZV-E10 (not the zv-1 point and shoot) as a huge step up from my point and shoots because according to every YouTube reviewer under the sun it's basically the jack of all trades. Do you want interchangeable lenses on a mirrorless platform but you're not ready for the commitment of a $2000 camera? Do you want excellent 4K video but not ready for a $2500 camera that's exclusively video? Do you want something "professional" that's still affordable and has a nice learning curve where you can use the included lens and "intelligent auto" mode and just take great pictures while you learn all the things about diameters, apertures, ISO, white balance, shutter speed, etc? I researched the hell out of it because it basically ticks every box on my list. I'm far from a professional, but I'm taking absolutely bonkers product photos and portraits with a mid-tier camera body and a dirt cheap used 50/1.8 lens.(this is another selling point, there's a whole universe of e-mount lenses, and with a $20 adapter you can use the last 20 years of manual lenses with Minolta/Sony A-mounts (you need the expensive adapter for auto lenses)) So, long story short, it's not the cheapest entry-level camera, but it perfectly bridges that gap from "baby's first" to "well I guess I'm a camera guy now". And oh baby, those 50/1.8 Christmas light bokeh balls. 10/10 highly recommend it if you're thinking of trying your hand at "professional" photography or just want a really nice camera/video camera to keep around for family events and whatnot. It aimed for the exact middle of baby camera and pro camera and nailed it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2021 16:32
|
|
|
Someone from my family: can you ask your wedding photographer for more family pictures, I know they took more than just the few they provided on your thumb drive. I want to photoshop several of them together to get one great pictures. Wedding Photogs.. how would you have responded. we said "no" but curious to see responses so I can loool some more this is coming from someone who took several months to edit a wedding she did for family (and also uses far too much vignette in her edits).
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2021 00:31
|
|
|
This is why rule number one is never to show anything but the finished product. Never let them look at your camera, never let them watch you edit. Don't give clients reasons to hate your photos before they're presentable. "Were there more pictures?" "Just the ones you see" "Where are the rest?" "Everything is here" That said if there was a pose they wanted that you were not able to deliver make sure they know immediately instead of after they start asking the questions above.
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2021 01:24
|
|
|
Right The guy was a tertiary family friend of my wife and I said ' if you wanted to I'd take the raws but I know you probably don't want to'. I get that 1 out of 10 pictures is good because he's loving with exposure, flash bounce etc. I trust that this photographer who was a gift and who cost nearly as much as our food/beverage picked the best family group picture(s) and provided them. Also this guy does between 0-5 weddings a year for folks he knows because he's semi retired and doesn't want to deal with poo poo like the above. Also my SIL maybe should hire a photographer for our next family get together. But that's a different topic. /Rant
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2021 14:34
|
|
|
I got an EOS R I rented a lens and the dude let me borrow it for a couple weeks. I had canon gear but all I read about was how sony mirrorless was the way forward. But after using the EOS R, and considering all the things people don't like about it.. I like it. A LOT. with a good lens the quality is perfect down to the pixel, I've never experienced that before This is with the Canon 100mm Macro lens on, this is at 100%  Maybe I just haven't seen enough good photos but that seems pretty drat good. So I got one. I love using it. I feel so inclined to take it with me everywhere. It's not perfect. I wish I could turn off moving the focus point on the screen without having to turn off the whole screen. And I have to get used to turning off my camera. With my 7D I NEVER turned it off. It would just go to sleep and stay that way for weeks and was ready to shoot in less than a second. I accept that'll never happen with a mirrorless. Also on another note I've worked out that increasing the size of the grain in lightroom actually just blurs the image underneath the noise filter. At least at higher levels. It's a good save for pics where the focus is flawed. Well, idk about "good" but it kind of works
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2021 19:33
|
|
|
I know there is a post-processing thread but its pretty dead. I've been doing a lot more photography that are specifically forests/landscapes and/or outdoor portraits. I can get these looking sharp, accurate, and generally good. Awesome! However, I see a lot of variety of post-processing results in this type of setting and am just looking for recommendations on what resources I can use to learn more about possible post-processing techniques and strategies. Any good 10,000 foot post-processing classes that dive into stylistic choices and beyond just basic correction?
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2021 14:05
|
|
|
Am I a weirdo that only keeps lens hoods for resale value?
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2021 15:57
|
|
|
Walked posted:I know there is a post-processing thread but its pretty dead. Should've posted in the post-processing thread to revive it! I can't give recommendations, but I'd be curious to see what your photos currently look like and some of these results you're talking about. Could lead to an interesting discussion. huhu posted:Am I a weirdo that only keeps lens hoods for resale value? Besides its intended use, every lens of mine stays hooded for safety. A lesson learned doing high mag macro where you can inadvertently move in too close and bump against a branch or twig. Also in case of a drop, the hood, being of a larger diameter than the lens, might just save the day. I guess if flare is not a concern, it's just a personal choice between size and (some amount of) peace of mind, so I judge you... not a weirdo.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2021 19:24
|
|
|
seravid posted:Should've posted in the post-processing thread to revive it! I can't give recommendations, but I'd be curious to see what your photos currently look like and some of these results you're talking about. Could lead to an interesting discussion. Sure. Here's an example shot that sparked my curiosity about expanding my post-processing approach: What's  this in particular looks REALLY EASY to overdo but worth having in the toolkit And another that struck me as something that's reminiscent of a bracketed HDR shot, but the photographer says is a single exposure:  The key here, however, is that I'm just unaware of what my options are. Cleaning up, bracketing, and focus stracking are about the most advanced post-processing skills I have (and I guess frequency separation), but I'm entirely ignorant beyond that. Looking for resources to take a little more liberty with some of my stuff
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2021 19:47
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 1, 2024 21:52 |
|
|
I got nothing to say about the first sample because it's out of my league and looks fake as gently caress. Like, she's got a flash hitting her in the face but she's casting a shadow on the log in the foreground? It has to be assembled from several exposures where they walked around the scene flashing light where they wanted it. You see that style of work a lot with car photography, I guess it works on children too. But the second one, if it is a single exposure, that level of dynamic range is feasible with modern sensors. They probably "dual processed" it where they load the raw file in two layers in photoshop, one with settings adjusted for the foreground and a second adjusted for the sky. Then they use luminosity masks to merge the two layers. So it's sort of an HDR, sort of not.
|
|
#
?
Dec 3, 2021 20:01
|
|