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builds character posted:This should come apart. hit the can with a mallet until it changes its attitude
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Nov 8, 2021 22:17
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500excf type r posted:hit the can with a mallet until it changes its attitude Slavvy posted:violence is almost always the answer.
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Nov 8, 2021 22:21
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OK so 20 minutes of banging on the tailpipe with a mallet, hammer, and sledge, progressively, and zero movement.. 20 minutes of trying to twist the muffler off the pipe until I literally -- LITERALLY -- am lifting the bike on the sidestand, and no movement. I just ran the map torch over it again, doused in penetrant, and will try again tomorrow. But I dunno, if that doesn't work I think this pipe has a date with a hacksaw or something. I can worry about replacing it once I'm done with the engine. One disaster at a time  .. But actually first I guess I'll first try to see if I can remove the engine without pulling the pipe, even if it means rotating the bike. I'd rather work on the side I have now but immovable object etc. So I guess tomorrow's order of business is to see what all is left attached to the engine. By my count still a bunch of wiring, the chain and sprocket are still on, the frame oil line, the carb and boot, the oil vent hoses up top... I think that might be it. It's possible I can get to popping the engine mounts tomorrow if I'm lucky. e: Ugh I forgot the swingarm is run through the engine. Maybe not tomorrow. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Nov 8, 2021 |
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Nov 8, 2021 23:05
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Martytoof posted:OK so 20 minutes of banging on the tailpipe with a mallet, hammer, and sledge, progressively, and zero movement.. 20 minutes of trying to twist the muffler off the pipe until I literally -- LITERALLY -- am lifting the bike on the sidestand, and no movement. Try a different spot? https://www.ebay.com/itm/274372110225?fits=Model%3ADRZ400SM&epid=1425037510&hash=item3fe1da2791:g:4~IAAOSw-wVexiVM That one looks like it comes off further down the pipe - right where that first O2 sensor spot is in your pipe. Does seem weird nothing is moving.
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Nov 8, 2021 23:54
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Can you not get the header and midpipe/can off the bike without having them separated? Seems like a pipe wrench and vise would allow some easier leverage. Maybe just leave them alone and see if you can get the engine out the other side of the frame and deal with it after that?
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Nov 9, 2021 00:17
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Yeah there's no way for me to remove the pipe without separating it. The header curls around the front of the frame, and the angles of the downpipes foul the engine block if you try to rotate it out of place. I'm going to make a good effort to remove the engine without pulling the pipe, I presume it's doable and I'm just being stubborn and dinging up a perfectly serviceable muffler and pipe because I refused to move my motorcycle for two days. It's hella dinged up at this point so honestly I'm fine either way  Going to jack the bike back up and pull the swingarm pivot tomorrow to free the engine. Not sure if I should separate the frame oil pipe at the frame or at the engine. I guess the service manual has something to say about it, I'll start digging through that tonight.
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Nov 9, 2021 00:45
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I was going to ask if you have a gun but I have it in my head you're in the UK?
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Nov 9, 2021 07:47
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I'm not in the UK, I'm in Canada, and I DO have firearms though I'm not entirely sure how I'm going to combine these two hobbies to solve my problem in a productive way that won't have the side effect of getting me arrested  
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Nov 9, 2021 13:41
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Someone already circled where you should aim
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Nov 9, 2021 18:18
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I have the same headers on my DRZ and they are an absolute bastard to separate. You've made it harder for yourself by unbolting the downpipe and midpipe before taking the can off. reattach them and it'll make it a little easier to level/hammer the can off. I used an sds drill on hammer mode with a chisel bit that i blunted to seperate the header from the mid pipe by putting a sacrifical pipe over the heatshield stud and hammering it back.  It is also a complete pain in the bollocks to put them back together.
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Nov 9, 2021 20:05
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With my WR the aftermarket lexx slip on exhaust is a bitch to get back on without another set of hands. My exhaust didn't come off right at the can, but rather partially down the pipe.
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Nov 10, 2021 02:38
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Thanks for all the advice, gang. I’m going to make a good attempt to just work around the pipe if I can, I’m honestly just super sick of hammering on it. I think I’m going to aim for an easy win by just popping the swingarm bolt out, undoing the remaining hoses and clamps and just pulling the engine out the other side if possible. Once it’s apart I should be able to slide the pipe back and just throw the POS in my soft jaw vise and crank on it like there’s no tomorrow. Experience tells me there’s something i”m not taking into consideration but I’ll take it in stride. So far everything feels really manageable other than this pipe which broke my progress for a few days. So a question for when I start to break it down and plan a rebuild — is there any material difference between the actual engine block on an S, SM, and E? If I do have to start sourcing parts like a case is it specific to what I have now or is the engine a common element? I think everything I’ve researched says it’s a common block with parts that are swapped in and out based on the model (kickstart on the E, starter on the S/SM, etc). some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 03:02 on Nov 10, 2021 |
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Nov 10, 2021 02:58
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Martytoof posted:Thanks for all the advice, gang. I’m going to make a good attempt to just work around the pipe if I can, I’m honestly just super sick of hammering on it. I think I’m going to aim for an easy win by just popping the swingarm bolt out, undoing the remaining hoses and clamps and just pulling the engine out the other side if possible. Once it’s apart I should be able to slide the pipe back and just throw the POS in my soft jaw vise and crank on it like there’s no tomorrow. Looks like it’s echomadman’s note about where it comes off. It should apparently separate there rather than where I said. So just try that one more time before giving up! Put a socket or something on the little nub and wack it a few times with a mallet.
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Nov 10, 2021 13:21
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Just came down with a cold so I guess everything is on hold until I can stop hacking up a lung, but maybe that'll give me enough time to get un-fed-upwithit :P I think I'll actually start a separate thread when I start again, feel like I'm kind of derailing this one from fun stuff people are doing and some of it should be in the questions thread anyway, so probably a good idea to just offshoot into my dumb little project.
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Nov 10, 2021 14:33
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BabelFish posted:My father-in-law was down a couple weeks ago so I took advantage of the extra pair of hands and installed heated grips, a powered GPS mount, USB socket in the frunk, battery tender lead, and a center stand on the new bike. This is nice and everything but when are you going to blow up your engine
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Nov 10, 2021 20:19
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mewse posted:This is nice and everything but when are you going to blow up your engine Sorry, it’s part of the paperwork you sign when buying one of these Hondas. I’m legally obligated to be boring now.
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Nov 11, 2021 05:20
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mewse posted:This is nice and everything but when are you going to blow up your engine dang
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Nov 11, 2021 07:36
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Pulled the engine and started new thread
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Nov 11, 2021 21:36
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Biek's put away for its winter nap, time for a meal and beer out to console myself lol.
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Nov 11, 2021 23:58
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Add a kickstarter its fun
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Nov 12, 2021 01:23
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Chris Knight posted:Biek's put away for its winter nap, time for a meal and beer out to console myself lol. Last year I got a ride in the week of Christmas so I'm not giving up yet but there is already a bit of snow in the forecast this year, so my season might already be over.
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Nov 12, 2021 01:25
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I rode to work today and yesterday in Stockholm. Monday morning it was wet and freezing and the roads got salted and I thought the season was over but then it rained a lot and the salt was washed away, and this morning it was just above freezing and almost completely dry. I have heated grips and adequate gear so it's actually still nice to ride, at least for half an hour at a time. I check for grip with the rear brake when I'm unsure and take extra care in general. Only real issue is that the visor fogs up easily so I need to crack it more and at higher speeds than when it's warmer. Also the gas tank feels cold aganst the thighs but it's no big deal. Next week looks to be dry and mild so I'll nix my plans to winterize this weekend and keep riding as long as possible. Gas is super expensive atm and my commuter e-bike is broken and awaiting parts from China so the motorcycle is currently the most attractive option even if I disregard the fun factor. I've noticed that the waving and nodding between the few of us who still ride seems a lot more heartfelt now than when the weather is fair.
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Nov 12, 2021 09:01
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Riding on Christmas day is nice. Almost nobody on the road, industial estates completely empty so you can hoon around to your heart's delight. I'd prefer a white christmas, but bombing around on empty roads while the cops are inside definitely is a fun way to spend christmas too 
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Nov 12, 2021 20:58
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I opened up the engine on my 88 xt600z oil burner (1.4liters of oil pr 1000km). Engine has been opened before, but a good while ago. All bolts came loose, but some was pretty hard to get out. Camshaft and rockers looked ok, no major wear marks. No indication of any oil leaks on anywhere to the outside of the engine.   Oil is from the compression test and a good bit of carbon build up.   Wrong placement of the ring gaps from a PO and crud build up on both sides.   And yup, needs a hone. Front is more rough than rear, can feel it with my finger. sides got good crosshatch still.  Piston head is maked with 2, which Im not sure is +1 from OEM or 2nd OEM oversize. I'll measure it tomorrow. I'll need to buy a cylinder measure tool also, I already got a digital caliper/micrometer. Kedo.de got a full range of rings and pistons for my engine.
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Nov 13, 2021 20:38
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As this is the first time I've messed around with this kinda thing I read up on piston head ring placement, how It was when I pulled it out of the cylinder is all wrong. 2 gaps should never overlap, let alone 3. From what I can gather It may be the cause of most of my oil burning and low compression. With the last one to open the engine doing that so wrong I'll check everything with the rings. Anyway I'll hone down the cylinder and see what gaps I get.
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Nov 14, 2021 21:02
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Your excessive oil consumption is partly from the damage to the bore itself. The rings won't seal well against it. I highly recommend replacing the piston if the skirt is scored like the bore. It'll damage the bore again negating your efforts. If its an engine you don't care a lot about you might be able to polish out the piston's scoring but you'll probably get piston slap which can break the skirt. You are right in that the rings shouldn't be clocked over one another. It looks like a steel bore so you should be safe with a hone. Taking a hone to an alusil/nikasil plated bore will damage the coating. This one is old enough that's probably not the case.
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Nov 14, 2021 21:11
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Good info. I'll check the piston for damage. The cylinder is steel from what I can find online, and I assume is has been honed before since the piston head was marked with 2 which I assume is 2nd oversize.  edit: hmm, wiseco or ProX? have you used stuff from any of them? 
Supradog fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Nov 14, 2021 |
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Nov 14, 2021 22:04
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Pro-x are cast, wiseco are forged. Forged tends to be a bit stronger and therefore more expensive, but I’ve never heard of anyone just having a pro-x fall apart on them either.
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Nov 14, 2021 22:42
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E: ^^^ forged pistons are also undersized when cold and often cause smoking, noises and oil consumption until the bike warms up. You're overestimating the impact of the ring gap placement by a lot, and underestimating the impact of your bore damage by a lot. Remember that when everything is assembled and warmed up the ring gap is next to nothing, and also remember that the pressure seal formed by the rings is dynamic and only has to exist for a tiny fraction of a second, there simply isn't enough time for meaningful losses to happen through the ring gap even if they're all lined up. Hone bore, new piston, new rings correctly gapped by fitting them in the cylinder first. Also valve stem seals and a valve lap while you're in there will do wonders.
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Nov 14, 2021 22:51
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Yup, I'll most likely do all of that now that the engine is open anyway. Something bike related to do this winter without nerve-wackingly sliding around on ice with studs. Semi related question, are small ultrasonic cleaners worth it? There will be a lot of stuff I'll potentially wanna get de-grimed.
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Nov 15, 2021 00:09
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Pulled the side over and cleaned out the centrifugal oil filter in the clutch. Also replaced the oil filter screen. Nigel see it pretty lean with just a bit of grey greasy poo poo in the clutch filter. Just about time to park it for winter. 
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Nov 15, 2021 01:39
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Went to ride last week during some nice weather and was getting no fuel flow. Went through all the lines, pump relay and the pump itself and found that to be the culprit. After some researching, I found an Edelbrock replacement unit at the local auto place after seeing a few Magna owners having luck with their universal low pressure unit. Bought and installed today and zipped around the neighborhood and forgot I had turned my petcock off, so I got to duck walk it back to my place. Tomorrow, hopefully, will be a nice little ride, nowhere real far away of course. Maybe go by and visit moms gravesite. I'm sore, stinky and black thumbed. Today was a nice day, goons and goonettes.  Edit: Crap, I forgot what lead to me working on it last week! I finally got around to replacing my leaking slave cylinder. There was NO gasket on it, so I made myself a couple and reinstalled and bled the system. Clutch works better than it ever has the whole time I've had it. Really satisfying to be able to work on your own stuff and see results at the end. Between you guys and Roadkill Garage, I'm not afraid to mess with my own stuff anymore. Sometimes wrenching is as fulfilling as riding. gileadexile fucked around with this message at 23:56 on Nov 16, 2021 |
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Nov 16, 2021 23:49
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gileadexile posted:I'm sore, stinky and black thumbed. Today was a nice day, goons and goonettes. 
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Nov 17, 2021 15:19
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Well after being back ordered for nearly a month the right side engine mount bolt finally got here yesterday and I put it on this morning. I’m now officially rid of those crappy engine mount destroying frame sliders.
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Nov 21, 2021 21:54
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Sometime in 2020 I bought a FCR carb for my DRZ from a wrecker. It was 1/5th the price of what a used one would go, what could go wrong? First problem: It was covered in sand. Two cans of carb cleaner later, it was still covered in sand. So one ultrasonic cleaner, and a day later it was clean. Second problem: The throttle cable didn't fit. One "DRZ-K" throttle cable, and one "one size fits all" kit later, and I still don't have a throttle cable. Feels like a triviality, so press on. Third problem: Even with a stubby choke plunger, the petcock doesn't fit. After much googling, and being inches from spending a small fortune on a pinguel petcock, I finally find a petcock with a vertical spigot. Third-and-a-half problem: The pandemic hasn't even hit and nobody has needles. So far, I've installed the carb twice, and not had it running. Fast forward one pandemic, one relocation to the other side of the world, one DRZ sale and one DRZ purchase. Accidentally bought a jet-kit for an E not a S/SM so I have a needle, and went to my steam-train-making dad's workshop to re-lengthen the throttle cables. I can't be hosed with work so today I took the morning off to install the carb... Carb is covered in white powder and rust. Must have gotten wet at some point. Soaked it in carb cleaner and gave it a good scrubbing. New needle on the left, old needle on the right. Wth is this poo poo? Do I need to go buy esoteric pinhead needles? Thankfully nope. looks like it's just a variant that lets the needle be captive in the retaining nut making extraction easier.  Carb installed: (If anyone has any suggestions for alternatives to the ugly hose clamp I'm all ears)  gently caress  Anyway. It took all day, but now runs, terribly. https://streamable.com/lqw14f . Hopefully I can get it running well by next Thursday, else I'm riding one of the sad VTR250s at next weeks moto-gymkhana meet. Considering tasking my dad with making me a compact petcock so I can get a full sized choke and hotstart plunger in there. Horse Clocks fucked around with this message at 10:04 on Nov 26, 2021 |
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Nov 26, 2021 09:43
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Pulled the giant ugly possum catcher off and mounted the plate to the turn signal assembly. Almost fit like it was made for it, just had to drill a couple small holes. Probably shaved off a couple pounds of weight too. Should make belt maintenance easier as well. Didn't take a before picture so you get to enjoy a stock photo:   
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Nov 28, 2021 21:51
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I bought a complete DRZ400 bottom end from a guy who had the piston hit a valve for next to nothing. Going to tear it down to see if anything is wonky but even if I use use it as parts to replace my cracked case it was still a great deal. For less than the price of an eBay case half I have an entire set of replacement everything. Guess that's not technically something I did TO my ride but rather FOR my ride ... ? Crank looked and felt good, all the movement was smooth, gears shifted fine, bla bla, but man -- that piston looked like a crime scene. I'm not sure what that kind of sudden impact does to all the downstream crank bearings but it can't be great..
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Nov 29, 2021 13:43
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Horse Clocks posted:and went to my steam-train-making dad's workshop 
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Nov 30, 2021 13:56
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As should surprise no one, the taillight braking off my Goldwing is a minor blessing, because it caused me to finally to do a proper mount to the fender. Previously I had the light mounted on a piece of steel bar bolted to the luggage frame. I had a GL1000 tail assembly laying around that I picked up for free from the old man from Poltergeist II. I guess the GL1100 was a step back in a lot of ways, because the GL1000 mount is super robust, while the GL1100 assembly seemed to rely on a bent tab that was engineered to fatigue and break. Anyway, 45 minutes of dremel work and the fender holes match the GL1100 bolts and it's all Loctite and wiring from here. I checked my dad's Norton 850 brakes and of course the front master seems to leak and the rear caliper froze when I squeezed it. He bought it fully restored in about 2007, then pretty much stopped riding it after he got T boned on my mom's Vespa and had his hip torn apart. He switched to his R65 because he couldn't get his leg over the Norton easily any more after healing. Then around 2014 or so his balance went and he stopped riding altogether, at age 80. Anyway, what that leaves me with is a gorgeous, shiny Norton that now won't roll. Looks like my Golding brake project last year was Jedi training for this project.
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Dec 5, 2021 23:34
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It turns out that if you ignore your speedo cable/gear for 60,000 miles and 25 years, it'll gum up, rust, then strip out and leave you doing tacho calculations all the way from Las Vegas to Denver. Today I took it all apart to figure it out, pulled out the cable and cleaned/lubed it, and a new gear is on its way.  
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Dec 7, 2021 23:11
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