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I've heard a lot of good about Klipper, I'll look into it. E: Okay, so it runs off a Pi. Is it possible to run Pihole and Klipper off the same device at the same time or does that overload it? I've already got a Pi running Pihole. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Nov 28, 2021 |
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Nov 28, 2021 05:21
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What generation of pi
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Nov 28, 2021 05:30
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Ghostnuke posted:"low maintenance" and "ender" do not belong in the same sentence I've had to do more work on my voron than my ender. My voron has needed it's linear bearings re-lubed a couple times. It's needed the bowden replaced, and both end fittings replaced. It also needs the extruder blown free of debris every few dozen hours. And it's gone through four nozzles. And three hot end block socks. My ender has needed six drops of oil on the extruder motor. A new bowden tube. New fitting once. It's gone through four nozzles. I mean.. for wear parts? naaa, Ender reliability is a end user problem, not a structural problem 22 Eargesplitten posted:E: Okay, so it runs off a Pi. Is it possible to run Pihole and Klipper off the same device at the same time or does that overload it? I've already got a Pi running Pihole. The answer to your question is "yes". But with the ceveat is it's a real dumb idea. I wouldn't run a realtime process on the same set of processesors that's doing your DNS for your house. Spend the $30 and get the part. And keep it INSIDE your network.
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Nov 28, 2021 05:36
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Nerobro posted:My ender has needed six drops of oil on the extruder motor. A new bowden tube. New fitting once. It's gone through four nozzles. I mean.. for wear parts? Yeah, my Enders run constantly and they've been more or less maintenance-free for well over a year now. Creality problems tend to be kind of front-loaded. If you're able to get the machine printing well without something breaking in the first month, odds are pretty good that it's going to be fine and you won't need to mess with it much, especially if you buy a handful of upgraded components for assembly. I don't think I've even re-leveled one of my beds in easily half a year. Closest I came was having the BLTouch on one generate a new mesh a few months ago after I was an idiot and smashed the nozzle into a previous print that I forgot was still on the bed. That might not have even been necessary, but I was worried the impact knocked the gantry off a bit.
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Nov 28, 2021 06:10
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This was a fun print that just finished. I didn’t realize I’d grabbed the “enlarged” version until after the print started, at which point I decided to just roll with it. 50 hours all told, and it’s so huge omg. I love it. I think the inside of this thing is fascinating, was really fun to watch the build throughout.   All done. It drapes over surfaces so nicely.  Like I said, huge!  OM NOM NOM  So I guess our next d&d campaign will take place on the planet Shmune, where the giant slugs produce spicy meringue while a war between house Atreyu and house Harpoonem wages on. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5091680
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Nov 28, 2021 06:34
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Follow up to stuff a whole bunch of resin printers in a besta cabinet. Doesn't seem to be any UV leakage between printers with the kids off. I filled a bunch of cups with resin and left them around the cabinet with the machine running, and I didn't get any issues with curing.
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Nov 28, 2021 06:58
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Bad Munki posted:This was a fun print that just finished. I didn’t realize I’d grabbed the “enlarged” version until after the print started, at which point I decided to just roll with it. 50 hours all told, and it’s so huge omg. I love it. Oh hell yes I saw someone selling those things on Etsy, didn't realize it was an open print. I'm definitely printing one.
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Nov 28, 2021 09:06
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So I did a bit more fiddling with my new heatsink/heatbreak. I took off the covering on the heatblock so I could see the small gap a bit more clearly and to make sure it wasn't actually touching, the gap's small but maybe that's fine? In any case though, this is as high as I can raise the print bed (and as low as I can lower the hot end). There's a good couple centimeter gap inbetween so I don't think this new heatbreak setup is going to work for me, even if I used the new heatblock and everything included it would still be too high off the build plate. Not to mention the fan guard almost seems as low as the print nozzle itself, I can't tell which one connects first anyway. I'm guessing the monoprice mini parts just aren't that interchangeable, I may just need to get a specific replacement for the printer itself which is pretty annoying... If anyone's got any other suggestions before I go off looking I'd love to hear em  EDIT: after posting I thought maybe I could find some longer bed screws, though the spring might not be tight enough, seems like the next cheapest solution anyway DarkAvenger211 fucked around with this message at 16:11 on Nov 28, 2021 |
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Nov 28, 2021 16:02
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w00tmonger posted:Follow up to stuff a whole bunch of resin printers in a besta cabinet. It's good to know that works since I really want a similar setup, but now I'm curious how bad the problem would be even if you had light leaks hitting your resin. My little UV flashlight seems to lose a lot of curing power as soon as it's a few inches away from the resin, and I would imagine leaked UV light from a machine would be even weaker.
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Nov 28, 2021 16:50
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DarkAvenger211 posted:So I did a bit more fiddling with my new heatsink/heatbreak. I took off the covering on the heatblock so I could see the small gap a bit more clearly and to make sure it wasn't actually touching, the gap's small but maybe that's fine? That insulation was going to protect the plastic shroud from warping near the heater block. Can you lower the Z endstop rather than getting longer bed screws?
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Nov 28, 2021 16:54
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mewse posted:That insulation was going to protect the plastic shroud from warping near the heater block. I figured it was probably important :/ . Hopefully I can find a silicone one that'll fit. Is the Z endstop something I can configure via the software itself? It seems like there's some space the arm could lower, though I'm not sure because it's covered by the printer casing anyway.
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Nov 28, 2021 17:45
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So what is a Pallet 3/Pallet 3 Pro, and is it actually worth paying more than an Ender 3 to get? Is it "just" letting you print with more than 1 color at a time, or is there more to it than that?
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Nov 28, 2021 18:45
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Randalor posted:So what is a Pallet 3/Pallet 3 Pro, and is it actually worth paying more than an Ender 3 to get? Is it "just" letting you print with more than 1 color at a time, or is there more to it than that? It's a device that processes your filament on the way into the printer, cutting it and splicing different colors inline. Like most multimaterial printing you have to purge the hotend with a purge tower along side the print so it's not as seamless as you might think, plus the Palette has to know what you're printing so that it can send the right color along while it's going. They're very neat but there's some filament waste for the purge tower and it's kind of a complicated device. Joel on 3d printing nerd has had several Palette videos, here's his one on the 3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4wQiy47opI
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Nov 28, 2021 19:02
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mewse posted:That insulation was going to protect the plastic shroud from warping near the heater block. Erhh, isn't it just there to stop melted filament from sticking to the heatblock?
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Nov 28, 2021 19:17
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Just saw an add for the Hitry Rocket 1, and I'm looking forward to someone else buying one, because it seems way too good for a resin printer? It doesn't seem like another Peachy printer scam, but with a new company, I am very skeptical.
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Nov 28, 2021 20:12
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Rexxed posted:It's a device that processes your filament on the way into the printer, cutting it and splicing different colors inline. Like most multimaterial printing you have to purge the hotend with a purge tower along side the print so it's not as seamless as you might think, plus the Palette has to know what you're printing so that it can send the right color along while it's going. They're very neat but there's some filament waste for the purge tower and it's kind of a complicated device. So... "just" doing multi-color prints then? While it's a good idea, the stuff I print is either basic enough to not need it, or would probably need to be hand-paintrd after tnr fact anyways.
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Nov 28, 2021 21:16
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Randalor posted:So... "just" doing multi-color prints then? While it's a good idea, the stuff I print is either basic enough to not need it, or would probably need to be hand-paintrd after tnr fact anyways. Yeah, it might be able to do other materials as well but I don't know if that's as well considered as the color swapping aspect. It's a cool device if you want multiple colors in one object and don't mind the waste, but if you're heavily post-processing anyway (sanding, filling, painting) it's probably not worth it. He visited Mosaic and setup a 64 color print at one point with a bunch of Palette 2 modules (which use 4 colors) setup to work together that almost worked: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e051w27k6W0
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Nov 28, 2021 22:13
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Erhh, isn't it just there to stop melted filament from sticking to the heatblock? No, it's insulation, it slows the hot end respose to air in the room, and keeps heat in the filament. Without the sock, the ducts on all of my printers get soft. With it there, they stay rigid. Randalor posted:So what is a Pallet 3/Pallet 3 Pro, and is it actually worth paying more than an Ender 3 to get? Is it "just" letting you print with more than 1 color at a time, or is there more to it than that? ... Aren't they $1000 *checks* Oh.. $800. Hah. Yeah, the price of four Enders. There's a lot of ways to do multiple filaments. The Pallet is one of the more expensive choices. There's the prusa option. There's the Enraged Rabbit Carrot Feeder. There's a few "Y" and "multi Y" type systems that are expandable. There are even some that don't need any more steppers. Some even let you mix filaments in the heat block. They all have their quirks. It's possible to run multiple filament types as well, but reliability starts to get much more difficult
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Nov 29, 2021 01:47
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InternetJunky posted:It's good to know that works since I really want a similar setup, but now I'm curious how bad the problem would be even if you had light leaks hitting your resin. My little UV flashlight seems to lose a lot of curing power as soon as it's a few inches away from the resin, and I would imagine leaked UV light from a machine would be even weaker. Do it. At the number of printers were using going vertical makes a huge difference. Previously the cabinet would have been 15t of wall space
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Nov 29, 2021 02:38
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Failson posted:Just saw an add for the Hitry Rocket 1, and I'm looking forward to someone else buying one, because it seems way too good for a resin printer? Looks a little sketchy; The ad copy and their website aren't consistent about the max speed, and looks like a proprietary resin situation. I think DCLF is their take on Carbon3d's /EiPi's Continuous Liquid Interface Production, due to mention of dead zone changes and oxygen barrier polymerization, but that doesn't really make sense in a "sinking" print. I guess I'm missing something. edit: https://www.nature.com/articles/s43246-021-00145-y?proof=t%29Nature this looks really interesting, but still doesn't really look like the tech they are claiming. Maybe it works in a similar way but inverse density of the liquids or somesuch. 
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Nov 29, 2021 04:07
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Double post, but another interesting paper https://www.nature.com/articles/s41467-021-26386-6 Hydrogel separation interface allowing a massive speed increase in resin printing. Time to whip up a lovely uv vis spectrophotometer and find out which brand of jello happens to have the same properties! e: 
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Nov 29, 2021 07:01
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Randalor posted:So what is a Pallet 3/Pallet 3 Pro, and is it actually worth paying more than an Ender 3 to get? Is it "just" letting you print with more than 1 color at a time, or is there more to it than that? I don't think I've seen anyone in either of the threads here play around with one. A local hackerspace is getting one, so I'll be able to but it's still a ways out. Multimaterial (not just multi color) is claimed. We'll see.
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Nov 29, 2021 07:41
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Failson posted:Just saw an add for the Hitry Rocket 1, and I'm looking forward to someone else buying one, because it seems way too good for a resin printer? w00tmonger posted:Do it. At the number of printers were using going vertical makes a huge difference. Previously the cabinet would have been 15t of wall space
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Nov 29, 2021 08:01
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Hey guys, I cracked up laughing at this Walmart Cyber Monday deal and thought I'd share it. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Junco-M-...94?athbdg=L1700
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Nov 29, 2021 13:27
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Anyone have a model or something I can buy that will sit on a spool on a prusa enclosure and let me stick dehydration beads in there with it while I print? If I do long prints > 24 hours, some of my spools will start stringing, ruining a long print job. I was hoping I could keep the spool drying while its in use on longer prints to avoid stringing and ruining them.
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Nov 29, 2021 13:39
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bad boys for life posted:Anyone have a model or something I can buy that will sit on a spool on a prusa enclosure and let me stick dehydration beads in there with it while I print? If I do long prints > 24 hours, some of my spools will start stringing, ruining a long print job. There are dedicated dry boxes for this but I've seen people just use plastic file boxes with a spool holder and a hole drilled in with a printed grommet for the filament to exit through - I'm guessing that's good enough for all but the most finicky of filaments. What sort of filament is this though? Is it possible there's not something else in your setup causing it? I only ask because I was having some odd problems with tall prints where the quality would drop as the print went on, eventually diagnosed it as the slightly longer-than-stock Bowden tube I was using bumping into the crossbar occasionally, which of course completely changed the bend radii and so was causing random bits of (mild, but noticeable) over- and under-extrusion - just rerouting it slightly fixed the problem.
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Nov 29, 2021 13:47
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Periodic reminder that dessicant pellets cannot dry filament that has already absorbed moisture. You need to heat the filament to break those bonds and release the water. The pellets will only keep the air in a storage container dry.
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Nov 29, 2021 17:23
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Also don't the pellets eventually turn into a slime/sludge after they absorb enough moisture (assuming the air is at a saturation point where that can happen)?
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Nov 29, 2021 17:35
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I haven't had that happen (yet) but the ones I got were apparently designed to be able to "reset" them by baking them in the oven. Maybe if you submerged them in water they would turn to sludge, but I don't think they would do that unless you leave them for years in a humid environment.
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Nov 29, 2021 17:39
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Randalor posted:I haven't had that happen (yet) but the ones I got were apparently designed to be able to "reset" them by baking them in the oven. Maybe if you submerged them in water they would turn to sludge, but I don't think they would do that unless you leave them for years in a humid environment. I just know that it happens with Damp-Rid products after a while, but they straight up say they only last for 60 days and aren't your usual desiccant pack stuff.
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Nov 29, 2021 17:43
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Damprid is calcium chloride, and will dissolve in water. The typical desiccant packs are silica gel. Silicon dioxide, similar to glass or quartz, with finely controlled pore sizes. They'll remain hard even when saturated, and don't dissolve. They can all be baked to recharge, though the ones intended to often have additional colorants to indicate how much water they're carrying.
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Nov 29, 2021 18:17
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I dropped some in water once to see what would happen, and they broke in half
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Nov 29, 2021 18:23
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Time to flush all the orbeez I use to dry my filament down the crapper. What could go wrong? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NTSJetzqLIE
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Nov 29, 2021 18:54
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Do people have glove recommendations? I use the black nitrile ones (I know they're not chemical resistant) but want to upgrade to something better now that I'm using resin daily.
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Nov 29, 2021 19:00
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Rexxed posted:Time to flush all the orbeez I use to dry my filament down the crapper. What could go wrong? Holy poo poo
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Nov 29, 2021 19:10
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Rexxed posted:Time to flush all the orbeez I use to dry my filament down the crapper. What could go wrong? To be clear, orbeez aren't silica gel, they're something different. (Sodium polyacrylate)
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Nov 29, 2021 19:23
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Mix some orbeez with your resin and run a test print.
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Nov 29, 2021 19:30
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Orbeez - not even once. Thank you all for staying skeptical on that new resin printer. If it turns out to actually work, great! But I am not optimistic. Back to failing to print anything with my Photon. Another tangent: Has anyone with a Monoprice Mini tried replacing the pad on the bed with something magnetic? Mine cracked when I got too angry removing a stuck part.
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Nov 29, 2021 19:51
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Failson posted:Orbeez - not even once. I thought about it (I think I linked to one earlier ITT when this came up before) but haven't pulled the trigger on it yet. EDIT: Went back and looked, this is the closest thing to one that will fit the Mini. Just break out the snips and trim the corners so that you can clear the leveling screws when mounting it (that way you can re-tram the bed to sit slightly below the fixed Z-homing point when the flex plate is on the magnet) and you should be good to go. There may be other magnetic build plate options for a 120mm x 120mm bed but that was the one that looked like the easiest to deal with last time I looked. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 20:26 on Nov 29, 2021 |
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Nov 29, 2021 20:21
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has anyone bought one of these prusa enclosures? thinking about grabbing one as my wife is always complaining about the noise.
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Nov 29, 2021 20:26
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