|
I had a few 106 Rallyes and they are great fun for what they are. Edit: title for the C10 turned up today and it is branded “retrofit” rather than restored salvage and I can’t find any details on that brand even existing. My brain it is confuzzelled. BigPaddy fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Nov 24, 2021 |
#
?
Nov 24, 2021 23:07
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 17:58 |
|
|
When I got Canadian Bacon, the ABS was intermittent. Finally went to full on dead/full time ABS + brake warning lights. Except after sitting overnight if it was on the cooler side - then I'd be free of warning lights for up to 3 minutes. Lots of misinformation out there about what years swap, if you need the exact same firmware revision, if it needs programming, if you can swap JUST the module (it's attached to the pump), etc. Turns out, at least for an 07 without traction control, it only matters that you get an 05-08 module - it bolts on and plugs in with no fuss. New one carries the same Bosch part number, different part revision sticker. Visually identical. Got one from a wrecked 08. 6 annoying Allen screws, 2 plugs. Have to remove the airbox, and it makes it much easier if you unbolt the ABS block and lift it a bit (assuming your brake lines aren't rusty). Despite the different part revision sticker, FORScan reports they're both the same part number (5W73-2C219-BC) and same firmware (2004-07-20). If you do have traction control, the module from a same-year Grand Marquis with TC will work; probably a Town Car too. More GMQs were optioned with TC vs CVs, and I think Town Cars got it standard by then.     Previously, I was getting B1342-E0 and B1596-20 for the ABS module. The only code present after this was a communication lost error (probably because I swapped it without disconnecting the battery), which went away with a reset.  If the replacement acts up, I have a core I can send in to (hopefully) have repaired. Next up: alternator. I have a junkyard pull (reman, unfortunately) with a working overrun pulley; mine is slipping (in the wrong direction). Pulling a complete alternator was cheaper and easier than getting a new overrun pulley ($25 for a complete used alternator; $120 for the pulley + ???? for the tool you need to replace said pulley). Worst case, I go back and get an OEM one with a locked up overrun pulley. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:23 on Nov 25, 2021 |
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2021 05:11
|
|
|
7.3 clutch master, slave, pedal, clutch switch mounted. Transmission cooler lines blown out, cut, reflared for ZF6. Driveshafts on. Clutch feels good & disengages correctly. Impeller & turbine outlet swapped out. Dealer ordered me the wrong HPOP reservoir lower gasket and I forgot to check the box before I left but at least I knew it was wrong when I saw it and didn't crack the timing cover and end up setting it all on fire. No dealer wanted to flash my PCM, local shop said they could but "there might be complications" so gently caress that I'll just get a hydra. Waiting for correct HPOP gasket, compressor housing o-ring, gotta do the stupid loving dipstick flange and then I guess I should probably try to fix the exhaust it came with so at least it has a downpipe on it when I start it up to verify it all works. I guess I just did a ZF6 conversion outside during the winter.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2021 08:48
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:That’s one way to keep people from asking to borrow your car. :P It is, ironically in this case, very popular with people who actually drive it. Very good all-around view (by virtue of being as safe in a crash as a wet shoe box) making it incredibly easy to keep track of your corners when you jump back and forth between lanes channeling your inner frenchman, surprisingly peppy in town thanks to the gearing that also makes it very very unsuited for any longer highway drives.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2021 18:40
|
|
|
Dropped in the junkyard alternator. Charging light came on. gently caress. Wait... I'm getting 13.4 volts. That's a little on the low side, but it's charging and it's steady no matter what the RPM.... weird. Oh well. Put the original alternator back in, dash light too.  Checked voltage, all over the place from 12.8 to just shy of 18, coupled with the cluster going nuts when the voltage would spike high. FML. Shut it down and start poking around.3 pin plug to the alternator.... the retaining clip is broken. Crap... thought it came off a bit too easy. Back to the junkyard alternator, got the plug wedged in with a popsicle stick, and now it's a solid 14.4 volts with no warning light. The reason I have a junkyard alternator is the overrun clutch on my original has poo poo the bed bad enough that it's slipping at random; complete used alternator is cheaper and faster... so the junkyard alternator is back in and working fine, so long as I keep something wedging the plug in. I even grabbed the pigtail with the junkyard one, but it has the same issue.  Swapped a nicer head unit into the Matrix, then it wouldn't start (turned over once, then clicking)... had the dome light on for 10 minutes or so while swapping the head unit (both Kenwood, so I didn't need to change the wiring at all). Checked voltage... below 10 volts. gently caress. Tried to pop start it, got a single cough. Jumped it, CEL is on, got it in the garage. Pulled codes, it has codes related to multiple sensors, so 99% sure it's just from voltage being too low when I tried to pop the clutch. Matrix is on the charger; I'm taking SO to work in the morning, then I'll grab a battery and get an alternator pigtail ordered for the 'Vic. Got 5 years out of the AutoZone (probably JCI) battery on the Matrix, though it got 12 years out of the original Toyota (also JCI I believe) battery. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:02 on Nov 26, 2021 |
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2021 04:27
|
|
|
Yerok posted:7.3 clutch master, slave, pedal, clutch switch mounted. Transmission cooler lines blown out, cut, reflared for ZF6. Driveshafts on. Clutch feels good & disengages correctly. Impeller & turbine outlet swapped out. Any Black Friday deals on the Hydra? I might just have to order one.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2021 04:31
|
|
|
the spyder posted:Any Black Friday deals on the Hydra? I might just have to order one. Didn't even think to look. I've heard PHP keeps a pretty tight leash on their distributors wrt to the minimum pricing of their products, so it's $350 everywhere. Probably worth it considering there isn't any other tuner that gives you access to whatever Ford PCM strategy you want. Even the crusty old TS 6 position on my OBS running more or less stock fueling makes it way less annoying to drive because it makes the E4OD no longer shift like molasses. It shifts like hot molasses.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2021 06:49
|
|
|
Napa lets you use online coupons for batteries if you order online for in-store pickup.  I don't think anybody else does. I don't know how long that'll last, but I was able to get 30% off of a battery for the Matrix (SAVE30). Their batteries are East Penn/Deka, I prefer them over Johnson (and I won't touch Exide unless I have no other option). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:09 on Nov 26, 2021 |
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2021 16:07
|
|
|
Getting the C10 aligned today, don’t have the stuff to do one and it is the fun shim and sleeve type so someone else can struggle with it and then tell me a bunch of stuff is bent.
|
|
#
?
Nov 26, 2021 16:57
|
|
|
  I'm still welding rust repairs into the no longer available parts on the Spitfire. Up until this, I thought people talking about warping when welding body panels were exaggerating, it's definitely fussy, but I think the repairs I'm doing are in places where the final fit and finish isn't too critical. I got an entire radiator support for the Sienna in the mail today, and it showed up bent in the middle, it had just been thrown loose into a big cardboard box. Hopefully the next one is better!
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2021 00:10
|
|
|
wzm posted:
It’s starting to look more solid! I know your pain of windscreen surrounds from working on my Saab. Yes, some of those bits look hidden - but make sure you test fit the seals and at least lay the screen in place so you can get everything trimmed and flat where it needs to be. I found one spot that was behind the screen seal on mine and not visible - but if I had the angle on it slightly wrong in my repair section the seal didn’t quite sit right and the screen wouldn’t fit into it properly… Warping stuff is also very real. Move about the length of your seam and weld it in small sections. a wet rag behind it or dropped on top can also help.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2021 02:00
|
|
|
Welp couldn’t get it aligned as most of the rubber parts in the suspension is done. Ordered everything needed off rock auto so that will be next weekends project. I was going to be lazy and order complete control arms but no one does oem replacement lower control arms and I didn’t want to buy a $2k QA1 coil over kit for it so I compromised and got a $1k tubular control arm kit for the front and the cheapest close out stuff for everything else!
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2021 03:53
|
|
|
Went to install my dual electric fans and found when removing the clutch fan that the water pump and fan was held on using metric studs that were gacked into the water pump bolt holes. Managed to get them out and chase the threads to put the correct bolts in and wire up the electric fans. Still getting odd readings from the water temp sender but I think there is still some air in the system.
|
|
#
?
Nov 27, 2021 19:40
|
|
|
Figured out why the locost won't start, looks like I've got some bent valves. Starter got bumped while the cam chain tensioner was off for working on the clutch. I'll order a ebay head and should be good to go. Also fixed the starter working while the ignition is off. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2021 00:00
|
|
|
Was at relatives, woke up first thing to drive back home. Shift car into drive, it won't accelerate past 20, and I open the hood to find the serpentine belt smoking. I'm hoping it's just time to replace the belt, but I'm too tired for this poo poo. 
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2021 02:01
|
|
|
Cut it off (since it needs a new one anyways now) and try spinning each accessory and idler by hand. You'll find the problem pretty quick. I've seen everything except a power steering pump cause that, the power steering pump self destructed but just slung glittery fluid everywhere and nearly lost the shaft and pulley completely rather than seizing up.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2021 02:16
|
|
|
kastein posted:Cut it off (since it needs a new one anyways now) and try spinning each accessory and idler by hand. You'll find the problem pretty quick. I've seen everything except a power steering pump cause that, the power steering pump self destructed but just slung glittery fluid everywhere and nearly lost the shaft and pulley completely rather than seizing up. Thanks for the tip. I already got the old belt off, but I'll check out that everything still spins by hand. At least the A/C pump was moving freely I think? It was time to replace the belt anyway (just hit 100k miles), so I'm not too upset about things. Fingers crossed that the old belt was just slipping! Hopefully the car runs fine when I finish the replacement. If not... I am going to need to start drinking. Or smoking. Or something.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2021 02:28
|
|
|
Slipping because it's old won't cause a lack of power, nor will it cause the belt to get so hot that it smokes. You have at least one accessory that's locked solid or close to it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2021 02:35
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Slipping because it's old won't cause a lack of power, nor will it cause the belt to get so hot that it smokes. Yeah, it looks like the A/C compressor is out. It's not a job I really wanna do so it sounds like mechanic time.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2021 06:31
|
|
|
Can you spin the outer pulley on the compressor with the engine off/key off? If you can, disconnect the wire(s) to the compressor - that'll keep the clutch from engaging. Some cars run the AC year round for dehumidification, pretty much all cars will run it if you set it to defrost. Sometimes the clutch will weld itself to the compressor itself when the compressor locks up though.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2021 08:34
|
|
|
HOMOEROTIC JESUS posted:Yeah, it looks like the A/C compressor is out. It's not a job I really wanna do so it sounds like mechanic time. I've had a few cars where the compressor seized and I was able to buy a belt that routes around the AC but drives all the other accessories. The internet may have an answer for you on that one.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2021 18:46
|
|
|
Rock Auto specifies belts for most cars as with AC and Without AC. I’d start there.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2021 19:23
|
|
|
RIP Paul Walker posted:I've had a few cars where the compressor seized and I was able to buy a belt that routes around the AC but drives all the other accessories. The internet may have an answer for you on that one. Yeah, we had been considering that but there's no easy route for a belt without the A/C. If you just skipped the A/C pulley, the belt would be running against the bottom of the tensioner in an awkward way. Do those belts typically go on a different route? I do note that the power steering, alternator, coolant pump, etc are on different pulleys. That would make the A/C bypass belt theoretically possible. The car is sitting in the middle of nowhere, but it looks like we'll have family transport until it's fixed. We're gonna try unplugging the compressor when we look at it today; it did spin yesterday so there's a hope the clutch hasn't locked on it. Otherwise we have an apt. with a mechanic to look at it Tuesday.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2021 21:02
|
|
|
HOMOEROTIC JESUS posted:Do those belts typically go on a different route? Not usually. It's just that some cars aren't designed for that at all. Models without AC, if even available, might have a dummy pulley installed to replace the AC pulley.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2021 21:46
|
|
|
Replaced the hydroboost hoses that were drenching the 7.3 engine bay. I thought it was an oil leak but then I caught a glimpse of a droplet on the bottom of the driver side spring pack and saw red. HPOP reservoir resealed top & bottom with correct pre 1999.5 bottom gasket. Thought about finally getting an alldata sub then noped out when I saw the price and googled pinouts to go through the two 16 pin connectors for the auto transmission harness and identify the fuel pump and reverse light wires so I could depin all 28 of the unneeded ones. Found 4x4 indicator wires on GEM, need pigtail to make harness for that switch as well as backup light switch. Did the dipstick flange. lovely but tolerable. The internal part in my pan was ok so new nut, new o-ring, red loctite, and a liberal coating of rtv. Yerok fucked around with this message at 07:49 on Nov 29, 2021 |
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2021 03:15
|
|
|
the spyder posted:Parts arrived to fix the above mentioned hydrolock on my 7.3l. In a strange turn of events, I asked my wife to roll down the windows on the truck (very nice day) and she walked out, turned the key one click too far and it cranked. Curiosity got the best of me, cranked it over, and it started. No smoke. Coolant level is right where I left it. Oil is still new and clean looking. Was I in some alternative dimension when it stopped cranking two weeks ago? Drove it, ran fine. No smoke. Oddly enough the battery light is now on. Time to toss a MM on it to test the alt. I'm still replacing the cups as time allows. But now it moves under its own power, again. Sigh. *Side thought, I'm wondering if I have a dirty/leaking injector. Two things make me wonder. 1) I just realized I have no idea how old/nasty/waterlogged the 1/4 tank of diesel that came in it actually is. I'll check the fuel filter/drain it into a cup and let it settle. 2) It pulsed during warmup. Like a tiny bit of extra fuel was being squirted in only 1cyl, causing it to rev ~50/100RPM and it did it like clockwork. Went away after warming up. It's never done that before, but I have no history on these injectors. the spyder fucked around with this message at 01:47 on Nov 30, 2021 |
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2021 01:40
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Not usually. It's just that some cars aren't designed for that at all. Models without AC, if even available, might have a dummy pulley installed to replace the AC pulley. If our homoerotic lord and savior goes the dummy pulley route, make sure it's a quality one. I went that route on one of my old beaters and the bracket for the dummy pulley eventually broke apart at a weak spot. Gotta love Dorman.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2021 07:53
|
|
|
Seems unlikely on something that's been recently gone through but check for any corrosion or bad crimp on your starter signal wire, we ran into this the other week. So many issues tracked down to lovely crimps by POs.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2021 15:29
|
|
|
Snow blower didn't start after filling with fresh gas so I took off the carb and sprayed carb cleaner on it and poked at it. I love that I can't tell if I'm doing anything right whatsoever and it starts back up fine when put back together. Carbs are still a mystery to me.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2021 16:04
|
|
|
Suburban Dad posted:Snow blower didn't start after filling with fresh gas so I took off the carb and sprayed carb cleaner on it and poked at it. I love that I can't tell if I'm doing anything right whatsoever and it starts back up fine when put back together. Carbs are still a mystery to me. Small engine carbs just hate new-fangled gasoline. Triple-so if the gas has ethanol in it. My Ariens (Tecumseh) two-stroke snowblower needs carb attention at the beginning of every winter and then behaves the rest of the season. I run it out of fuel at the end of the year, but the little fucker craves attention every November/December. I can't seem to find a new replacement for it either.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2021 19:08
|
|
|
PBCrunch posted:Small engine carbs just hate new-fangled gasoline. Triple-so if the gas has ethanol in it. My Ariens (Tecumseh) two-stroke snowblower needs carb attention at the beginning of every winter and then behaves the rest of the season. I run it out of fuel at the end of the year, but the little fucker craves attention every November/December. I can't seem to find a new replacement for it either. TruFuel or other synthetic at the end of the season will eliminate this. (drain the tank, pus a splash of trufuel in, run it empty or nearly so) I'm getting away with just marine stabil these days, but YMMV on that depending on how crappy your gas is. TruFuel has the added benefit of "holy crap I can't believe it started this easy" when it's cold out. I just run it in my saws and blowers all winter.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2021 20:50
|
|
|
90s Solo Cup posted:If our homoerotic lord and savior goes the dummy pulley route, make sure it's a quality one. I went that route on one of my old beaters and the bracket for the dummy pulley eventually broke apart at a weak spot. Gotta love Dorman. Yeah, I can't live without A/C once the summer hits; dummy pulley would be a no go. I imagine having one break on a drive would be super unpleasant! 
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2021 21:01
|
|
|
Just got word that the MINI is put back together and ready to roll. Final tally of work included: Oil pan gasket Water pump Crank seal Belt tensioner Oil cooler bolt (one was wrong, allowing seepage) Motor mount Radiator core support Low speed engine fan resistor Straightening the frame horns Oil change Coolant change The guy who did all the work is the local MINI expert. While he was digging around he realized that he had been the one to install the PRW harmonic balancer and the Alta pulley on it years ago, and he cleaned the supercharger and the whole motor while he was in there. Total cost was about a grand, which seems like a lot but it only brings my total investment in the car to $3800 and in this market no way we can get another non rusty, fun, reliable car for that money. When I get home from work travel I’ll probably pop the winter wheels on it and it’s back in action.
|
|
#
?
Nov 30, 2021 21:23
|
|
|
Motronic posted:TruFuel or other synthetic at the end of the season will eliminate this. (drain the tank, pus a splash of trufuel in, run it empty or nearly so) I have so many cars I can't drive them all super frequently. I put this in everything. Saws, equipment, generators, cars, etc. I never have a single problem starting anything ever. Little two-stroke poo poo gets trufuel since I don't burn through enough two-stroke gas for the cost to really be an issue.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2021 03:20
|
|
|
PBCrunch posted:Small engine carbs just hate new-fangled gasoline. Triple-so if the gas has ethanol in it. My Ariens (Tecumseh) two-stroke snowblower needs carb attention at the beginning of every winter and then behaves the rest of the season. I run it out of fuel at the end of the year, but the little fucker craves attention every November/December. I can't seem to find a new replacement for it either. Yep this seems like me. I used stabil last spring then ran it out of gas but that obviously didn't work. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2021 04:53
|
|
|
Suburban Dad posted:Yep this seems like me. I used stabil last spring then ran it out of gas but that obviously didn't work. The red stuff is.......not great. The blue marine stuff does the trick for me. But seriously, if you're having problems don't chance it and just get some trufuel. Marine stabil is just what goes in my cans every time before they get filled, no matter what. It's like extra insurance because I don't know how long it's gonna sit in those cans or how long it will sit in what it gets dumped into. Sometimes I miss stuff.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2021 05:00
|
|
|
Some tidying up and winter prep on the mini now that it’s back from the big service. Silicone Intake hose to replace the ripped OEM one  License plate LEDs  Winter wheel swap  
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2021 17:18
|
|
|
Motronic posted:The red stuff is.......not great. The blue marine stuff does the trick for me. But seriously, if you're having problems don't chance it and just get some trufuel. Yeah, I'd like to not mess with it so I will try to take this advice. Can you acquire it in some big box stores?
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2021 18:12
|
|
|
Suburban Dad posted:Yeah, I'd like to not mess with it so I will try to take this advice. Can you acquire it in some big box stores? Yep, probably. At least in the before times LowesDepot had both the straight gas type and the 50:1 oil premix.
|
|
#
?
Dec 1, 2021 18:23
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 17:58 |
|
|
Motronic posted:The red stuff is.......not great. The blue marine stuff does the trick for me. But seriously, if you're having problems don't chance it and just get some trufuel. Do you still use non-ethanol gas or it doesn't matter when you use the stabil?
|
|
#
?
Dec 2, 2021 01:25
|
|
