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nexus6 posted:Either the Bluetooth on my motherboard or my Xbox one controller sucks because it keeps disconnecting. Falling back to a more reliable wired controller. Xbox controllers can work over Bluetooth or proprietary radio, and Xboxes use the latter so the BT implementation is a token "it kinda works I guess  " effortFor best results you need the custom Xbox Controller Dongle that uses the custom Xbox controller radio protocol
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Nov 30, 2021 18:11
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eke out posted:Here's what I've landed on to start with, but I'm really not attached to anything other than the GPU/CPU: Looks pretty good, and very close to what I put together in 5800X form earlier this year. You could do faster RAM (I went with CL16), or if you're okay spending some time on it you could also just overclock the slower stuff a bit if you decide it matters. I've been very happy with my SN750. One other difference is that I went with the full-size Meshify 2, though I would happily recommend the Meshify 2 Compact if you don't foresee a need for a terrifying number of drives. You get a bit better airflow than the Meshify C plus a USB-C port up front. The C is still plenty nice if you wanna save the money, though. As for the mounting situation for the cooler, yeah that's something to watch out for. Noctua is supposedly shipping with the required hardware in boxes already. I'm sure they'd also ship you the right kit if you somehow managed to buy old stock. I don't know if be quiet! is shipping the kits in the box yet, but they do have a form on their website to upload your mobo and cooler invoices to get one free.
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Nov 30, 2021 18:22
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nexus6 posted:Either the Bluetooth on my motherboard or my Xbox one controller sucks because it keeps disconnecting. Falling back to a more reliable wired controller. I get that wireless peripherals have improved significantly over the last decade, but I still choose to avoid them. Plug-and-play is just easier. You don't have to worry about pairing, latency/interference, recharging poo poo, etc., and wired is normally cheaper anyway. My first PC had a wifi-card mainly out of necessity, but I didn't even concede to getting Bluetooth earbuds until last year (which are admittedly pretty awesome and I'm never going back). 
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Nov 30, 2021 18:46
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Helter Skelter posted:Looks pretty good, and very close to what I put together in 5800X form earlier this year. You could do faster RAM (I went with CL16), or if you're okay spending some time on it you could also just overclock the slower stuff a bit if you decide it matters. I've been very happy with my SN750. Thanks for the rec! It's really hard to figure out what case is actually good, since there's a million choices and it's hard to distinguish them. I don't really care about how big it is, just want something that's easy to work with and doesn't have any cooling issues, since building a new PC is something I only do maybe twice in a decade. I guess I could also just use a Corsair 4000D Airflow to get USB-C on the front as well? It seems to be popular here. eke out fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Nov 30, 2021 |
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Nov 30, 2021 19:10
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I was very happy building in my new 4000X, the 4000D variant that includes a fan controller and fans.  Now I just need to redo the cable management for a PC on top of the desk, instead of under.
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Nov 30, 2021 20:29
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Yhag posted:So a couple of the parts I ordered arrived today. Yikes. Those boxes are designed to withstand a good amount of tossing around, and none of those components are particularly delicate. The foam in particular is there to protect those components, so if it’s imprinted and didn’t damage the foam did it’s job. Up to you if you want to wait 2 weeks to get all new components for piece of mind. If it were me, I’d closely inspect each item and if nothing looks damaged probably put it together and see how it works. But I also don’t mind the setup and tear down if it doesn’t. nexus6 posted:I had to do that and while it worked on Sunday I booted the PC up today and it wouldn't work until I changed the DNS. Now dreading turning it on again. Are you absolutely sure this issue is wireless card hardware related? I find it very hard to believe that a change in DNS will push through a hardware related issue. Knowing this new info, router settings/compatibility, general driver and windows shittiness, or dumb ISP poo poo are more likely I think. Have you made sure your router firmware is up to date? Also, wired gang 4 lyfe. Ran 75ft of Ethernet outside than back inside just for that. It’s almost always worth the hassle. eke out posted:So I finally got lucky and got a graphics card from best buy at msrp after trying forever and I picked up an i7-12700k. I'm trying to figure out the rest of this build based on suggestions from earlier in this thread/reddit/pcpartspicker. Try not to put your build in a quote cause it doesn’t pop up when we quote it, and it makes it hard to keep track/read out the build while in posting mode. As for ram, I’d browse r/buildapcsales daily until you find a good price on a 3600@CL16 kit. Generally a worthy investment for the extra $15-20 it usually is. Something good should come up over the next month. Ram hasn’t been in super short supply lately. For PSU, if you’re buying right now I’d spend the extra $8 for the much better RM850x https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079H5WNXN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_dl_PXEKMB8397SCM42KRGXS Or if you want to save a little, this 750w platinum Seasonic is also really great (code SEASBF322A at gets you it for $89, or same price at Amazon) Seasonic FOCUS PX-750, 750W 80+ Platinum Full-Modular, Fan Control in Fanless, Silent, and Cooling Mode, Perfect Power Supply for Gaming and Various Application, SSR-750PX. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W4PLZWH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_EMG7DDHCXEBDF5XH4431?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 If you’re not expecting to upgrade for at least 5 years, I’d 100% go with that seasonic. It’s a great PSU, and that price is kinda nuts considering current PSU prices. For case, that’s the OG Meshify C. Meshify 2 compact (if you want the smaller form factor) is significantly better. You also get your USB C from I/O. It’s for sure in a higher price tier, but IMO worth it. 4000d/4000x is also a good choice. I love my big black box fractal cases, and find them a joy to work in. Cooler and everything else is fine. You might be able to get a slightly better deal on an SSD for an SN550, but frankly what you have there for the price is fine.
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Nov 30, 2021 20:43
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Thanks, taking this advice re: 750w seasonic, 3600x16, and something newer than the old meshify C.
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Nov 30, 2021 20:55
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man ram prices on ddr4 are competitive in the UK rn. 2x8 of 3600 cl 16 at £63 https://www.hotukdeals.com/deals/cr...-amazon-3840813
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Nov 30, 2021 21:02
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CoolCab posted:man ram prices on ddr4 are competitive in the UK rn. 2x8 of 3600 cl 16 at £63 Similar prices here too. They’ve finally started to fall. These were prices 2+ years ago.
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Nov 30, 2021 21:26
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:Are you absolutely sure this issue is wireless card hardware related? I find it very hard to believe that a change in DNS will push through a hardware related issue. To be honest I'm not entirely sure what the issue is. When I installed Windows last week it immediately picked up the wifi and kinda ignored the fact I'd plugged in an ethernet cable. I always have the ethernet cable in and while it was fine on Saturday, on Sunday it just didn't work at all: first it would say there's no network, then it had connected but no web pages would load. I had to install some firmware, and old driver and change driver settings for it to work, which it did. Initially. Then today no web sites would work even though I could ping them. Changing the DNS to 8.8.8.8 finally solved it, but now I'm wondering how long until it falls over again. Also, the Wifi card is detected, installed and appears to be connected but doesn't appear an an option, nor can I pick a network to connect it to.  I know I don't use it and it's not that big a deal, but it's kinda lovely knowing it's there, it did work but now it's busted somehow.
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Nov 30, 2021 21:30
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drat i wish i saw that newegg coupon when it was posted yesterday. can't seem to get that code to work today. EDIT: expired last night. drat. EDIT 2: this is my build i think i'm good with. any glaring issues? i do a lot of Lightroom/Photoshop work in addition to gaming. Holding onto my GTX 1070 for dear loving life and hope i can ride out the GPU hell market. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i7-12700K 3.6 GHz 12-Core Processor ($403.48 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($94.94 @ Newegg) Motherboard: MSI PRO Z690-A DDR4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($219.99 @ Best Buy) Memory: Crucial Ballistix 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($84.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($83.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Black 4 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($124.99 @ Western Digital) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8 GB GAMING Video Card Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.99 @ B&H) Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($103.01 @ Amazon) Total: $1225.38 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-11-30 16:50 EST-0500 Too Many Birds fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Nov 30, 2021 |
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Nov 30, 2021 22:22
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:If you’re not expecting to upgrade for at least 5 years, I’d 100% go with that seasonic. It’s a great PSU, and that price is kinda nuts considering current PSU prices. I mean there have been a ton of PSU sales lately. I got a 650W gold Seasonic for $50, $35 if the mail in rebate works.
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Dec 1, 2021 01:34
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Too Many Birds posted:drat i wish i saw that newegg coupon when it was posted yesterday. can't seem to get that code to work today. Get this SSD instead of the SN550: https://www.newegg.com/intel-1tb-670p-series/p/N82E16820167474 The 670p is faster and cheaper (for the next 7 hours at least) edit: Don't be scared by the QLC label. It has something like 140GB of SLC cache compared to the SN550's 12GB, so it will be significantly faster in even fairly large write operations. For most normal computer users, the Intel 670p is an awesome value at $80, and it's a bummer that it's only a temporary sale price. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Dec 1, 2021 |
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Dec 1, 2021 01:36
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I am a moron who spilled beer on his GTX970. It's an old card but cards are so hard to come by and it worked perfectly fine. Computer boots fine without the card installed, so it seems like everything else survived, but when the card is in the PCIe slot it won't boot. Do repair shops ever tackle things like this? Are there good online sites where you can send a card away to get it fixed?
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Dec 1, 2021 01:49
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with any luck this is a rad beer commercial and RPG chicks will appear to the accompaniment of butt rock
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Dec 1, 2021 01:59
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Turds in magma posted:I am a moron who spilled beer on his GTX970. It's an old card but cards are so hard to come by and it worked perfectly fine. If you're lucky, a replaceable component on the board fried itself, like a capacitor or resistor. If you're unlucky, the GPU itself is toast. A good shop could fix it if the short didn't travel far and only damaged simple components, though most repair shops seem to be utterly flooded with GPUs right now since nobody wants to have to buy a new one, so good luck. They may not even take a card that's been spilled on so they can focus on cards that are more likely to be repairable. The cost of buying a used 970 off of ebay will likely only be a little more than the cost of getting one repaired tbh, though prices are all over the place and seem generally higher than they were when I last checked a couple months ago ($150 - $250). May I ask how you managed to spill beer on a GPU and a GPU only, presumably as it was running inside a computer? Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 05:07 on Dec 1, 2021 |
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Dec 1, 2021 02:08
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Too Many Birds posted:drat i wish i saw that newegg coupon when it was posted yesterday. can't seem to get that code to work today. The Meshify C is an old case. Fractal came out with a new version that's about the same size called the Meshify 2 Compact that is generally better according to the Gamers Nexus guy and about the same price.
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Dec 1, 2021 02:23
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Shear Modulus posted:The Meshify C is an old case. Fractal came out with a new version that's about the same size called the Meshify 2 Compact that is generally better according to the Gamers Nexus guy and about the same price. The Meshify 2 Compact is about $25 more than the Meshify C. There's nothing really wrong with the C, it's still a good case. And Fractal still produces it as a lower cost alternative. But if you're already spending $1225, then yeah, in my opinion you may as well spring for the slightly more premium case. edit: Also, OP should make sure they get the NM-i17xx-MP83 mounting bracket for NH-D15 since you can't mount it on a LGA1700 board without it. Unfortunately it seems to be in low supply right now, to the point where it's currently being scalped on newegg, because of course it is. Even a loving heatsink mounting bracket. Sigh... The Scythe Fuma 2 would be a good alternative. It won't keep your temps quite as low, but it should be more than capable of keeping the 12700K under the thermal throttle point while under max load, and it's still very quiet. Their LGA1700 mounting kit is even in stock, though it'll take a couple weeks to ship. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Dec 1, 2021 |
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Dec 1, 2021 02:37
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Noctua will actually mail you the new mounting hardware for free if you show them that you bought an LGA 1700 board and one of their coolers. I actually just put in a request for one for my NH-D15 I bought 6 years ago.
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Dec 1, 2021 03:06
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A couple of questions A "free" 140mm fan arrived today (mail in rebate for full amount, we'll see how that goes; possibly one of my more frivolous purchases). Only places I can mount it on the Lancool 2 are the front intake (which is full), and the top. PSU shroud only takes 120 unfortunately. Like I've said before the temperatures in the case are already good, so adding a fan might be unnecessary. But is there any negative to installing it above the CPU cooler? Second is about the motherboard replacement, which should be here soon. Do I have to do a new Windows install? Is there a way to do so without wiping what's already installed (or would that defeat the purpose)?
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Dec 1, 2021 03:10
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word, i was gonna go with the fuma originally but it didn't show up in the compatibility list on pcpartpicker. but it looks like that's just an oversight. swapping that and the meshify cases brings it to about the same price point. the only thing i'm considering springing a bit more on at this point is maybe 32GB of RAM instead. thanks!
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Dec 1, 2021 03:14
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As long as it's not a cheap lovely fan, adding it probably won't hurt anything. Add it to the rearmost top position, and it should help with exhausting CPU heat if nothing else.
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Dec 1, 2021 03:16
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Too Many Birds posted:word, i was gonna go with the fuma originally but it didn't show up in the compatibility list on pcpartpicker. but it looks like that's just an oversight. yeah you have to be careful with pcpp. it's a fantastic resource, but it misses some stuff. i almost missed a deal because it filtered out something it shouldn't have. Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:As long as it's not a cheap lovely fan, adding it probably won't hurt anything. Add it to the rearmost top position, and it should help with exhausting CPU heat if nothing else. it's an enermax
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Dec 1, 2021 03:18
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As long as it’s behind the CPU cooler and not directly on top or in front it’s fine. Won’t do much, but it won’t hurt there.
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Dec 1, 2021 03:40
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More exhaust is bad for dust buildup, right?
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Dec 1, 2021 03:42
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No. More intake without filters is what’s bad for dust buildup (but not actually), unless you’re trying to build a negative pressure system which this is not.
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Dec 1, 2021 03:51
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If your exhaust is overpowering your intake, then you'll get dust coming in from various crevices and openings, but that shouldn't be happening with three front intakes and two exhaust.
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Dec 1, 2021 03:54
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Any reason why my new pc would have considerably longer boot times than my previous one? I'm going from a WD Blue SATA to an SN550 (according to the firmware version, this model's from before the nerf). This is true whether I'm doing a quick reset or a cold boot.
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Dec 1, 2021 10:47
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Rinkles posted:Any reason why my new pc would have considerably longer boot times than my previous one? I'm going from a WD Blue SATA to an SN550 (according to the firmware version, this model's from before the nerf). If you cloned it that could be the cause. I always do a reformat and reinstall if I change my storage. Strange things tend to happen when you do significant hardware changes like that without a fresh install of Windows. There are also certain BIOS settings that need to be enabled if you're going to use an nvme drive, look up your motherboard and see what the instructions are for when you are using an nvme drive.
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Dec 1, 2021 10:50
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Zedsdeadbaby posted:If you cloned it that could be the cause. I always do a reformat and reinstall if I change my storage. Strange things tend to happen when you do significant hardware changes like that without a fresh install of Windows. Nope, brand new install. Zedsdeadbaby posted:There are also certain BIOS settings that need to be enabled if you're going to use an nvme drive, look up your motherboard and see what the instructions are for when you are using an nvme drive. I'll look into it.
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Dec 1, 2021 10:54
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CoolCab posted:man ram prices on ddr4 are competitive in the UK rn. 2x8 of 3600 cl 16 at £63 if I've already got these boyz in my system: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CMK16GX4M2B3000C15-Vengeance-Performance-Desktop/dp/B0134EW7G8 would it be worth my while upgrading? This to CC and everyone else. Other specs: B450 MSI Tomahawk Max, 3600, 3070
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Dec 1, 2021 10:56
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Timed it. Used to be like ten seconds. Now it's over a minute.
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Dec 1, 2021 11:03
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Rinkles posted:Timed it. Used to be like ten seconds. Now it's over a minute. https://www.techradar.com/uk/how-to/how-to-install-an-m2-nvmesata-ssd-on-your-pc I recall that this is what I referred to when I installed my own SN550 The key things are the M.2 PCIe mode in BIOS, as well as using NTFS file system in Windows for the disc volume
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Dec 1, 2021 11:06
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Zedsdeadbaby posted:If you cloned it that could be the cause. I always do a reformat and reinstall if I change my storage. Strange things tend to happen when you do significant hardware changes like that without a fresh install of Windows. Oh really? I've got an NVME arriving today to replace a non nvme m.2 boot drive and I was banking on just cloning everything over. Is it worth just cloning anyhow and seeing how it goes? I'd like to avoid the hassle of a clean slate if possible.
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Dec 1, 2021 11:11
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Barry Foster posted:if I've already got these boyz in my system: not massively, it's 3600 cl 16 Vs 3000 cl 15. I would hold imagine they're both b dies with those stats
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Dec 1, 2021 11:42
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3600 CL16 is a very common and relatively cheap configuration. I highly doubt that's b-die.
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Dec 1, 2021 11:50
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going off dis post BurritoJustice posted:3600c16 is more likely to be bdie, especially if it's 16-16-16-36, which means you can happily run it at 4000-4200 depending on how high your IMC goes in gear 1. Plus you can tighten the timings to an almost absurd degree which can boost performance way more than max speed.
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Dec 1, 2021 12:28
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Most DDR4-3600 CL16 memory I've come across don't have timings that tight. G.Skill is advertising their Ripjaws V and Trident Z at 16-19-19-39 right now, for instance. Crucial Ballistix is 16-18-18-38. Corsair Vengeance LPX are 16-18-18-36. OLOy Blade is the cheapest 32GB kit I'm finding at 16-16-16-36, at $190. Considering the Ripjaws were $135 for the last couple weeks, that's a pretty big premium for what may or may not be b-die. And for that much money, you get the privilege of every PC enthusiast's least favorite pastime: memory overclocking. Yay... edit: Actually there's a b-die model of the Tridzent Z stuff for over $200. At that point though I'd rather just pay a little bit more for some DDR4-3600 CL14 and be done with it. (Actually I'd just get the cheaper ripjaws stuff because I really don't care that much, and neither should most users) Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 13:18 on Dec 1, 2021 |
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Dec 1, 2021 13:14
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memory overclocking would be fine if I had a clear CMOS button, taking out the GPU every time I tightened too tight was a deal-breaker
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Dec 1, 2021 13:17
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I have a motherboard with a safe mode so no CMOS clearing necessary for me (ROG Strix B550-F). But every time I've tried to do even the mildest adjustments to my 3200 Ripjaws V, it fails to post lol
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Dec 1, 2021 13:19
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