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The Slack Lagoon posted:Anyone have experience with central heat pump to warm air system in places that get below freezing? I would get gas every time unless for some weird reason it'd be significantly more expensive. Your vent temperatures with gas will be much higher, heat pumps can feel like they're blowing a cool draft. Gas will work even when it's very cold and you won't have to worry about the outdoor unit getting clogged up with ice, sleet or snow. We have heat pumps and a few times a year I have to go outside to knock the ice off them in the middle of the night, especially during freezing rain. You can also run a gas furnace on a small generator, if power outages are a thing where you are.
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Dec 1, 2021 02:49
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Question for the thread: Dad and I already have some Honeywell wifi thermostats in the vacation house and my house. He'd like to put something similar, ideally Honeywell to use one app, in his house in Vermont. The catch is that it's an oil furnace with a Triple Aquastat Relay that uses line voltage thermostats. Is there a good / reasonable solution to converting to a low voltage system to use a smart thermostat? It looks like the "right" solution is a new type of aquastat that uses low voltage, and run new 24v wires to each thermostat location. That's also expensive and a pain in the rear end. There appears to be a conversion fix that goes in the basement and converts it from Line to Low, like https://www.amazon.com/Aube-RC840T-240-Switching-Electric-Transformer/dp/B0037MXM1C Or the 120v version, is that correct? And you'd need one of those for each zone? Anyone have specific experience or advice on this? Edit: Photos of the setup - https://imgur.com/a/zztLI8t Alarbus fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Dec 5, 2021 |
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Dec 5, 2021 19:30
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Alarbus posted:The catch is that it's an oil furnace with a Triple Aquastat Relay that uses line voltage thermostats. Unless I'm missing something, there are no line voltage thermostats in those pictures. The 2-conductor R+W thermostat wire is hooked into the TT terminals, in photos 2+3, both of which have transformers pictured directly below them that are likely going 120v-24v.
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Dec 5, 2021 19:56
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Okay, I sort of wondered about that, but the thermostat wiring in the first photo has thicker wires than I was expecting.
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Dec 5, 2021 20:00
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I had a new furnace installed last year. I didn't notice it last winter, and there's no issue in the summer when I'm using AC instead, but there is a low kind of pulsating noise when the furnace turns on, and heat comes out of the soffit ducts. I first noticed this when a duct that was normally always closed was opened in the entry. Closing it again seemed to remove the noise, but I still hear it other times, and typically closing or opening a duct to some degree causes the noise to go away again. It's not something loud enough to record, but any thoughts?
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Dec 7, 2021 02:03
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Cross posting here: Question about how best to meld two separate heating systems. Our new house has two separate systems: 1) A radiant heating system with 3 zones, controlled via 3 separate Nest thermostats. 2) A 3 zone Mitsubishi minisplit system, controlled by separate Mitsubishi thermostats/a Kumo Cloud adapter. We have 3 zones, with a 3/4 ton unit: SEZ KD90NA4, 1 ton SEZ KD12NA4R1, 3.5 ton condenser: MXZ-5C42NA2U1. I've seen 2 units in the attic. There are apparently 1-2 more for the basement in a crawl space I haven't seen. My understanding is that the minisplit system should be used primarily for cooling and occasional "light" heating, but that for heavy duty heating, using the radiant heating system is preferable. I haven't really paid attention to home automation stuff, but is this something that Homekit/Alexa/Google can help out with in some way?
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Dec 10, 2021 19:55
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So, I had my old single-stage furnace/AC replaced. I know have a Trane S9X2 (two-stage) furnace coupled with a single stage AC. I have an old Gen 1 Nest that has been controlling things, but the thermostat wire is only 4 conductors (brown sheath in the 2nd photo):  Currently the two stages of heat are jumpered together at the furnace, and the 2nd stage eventually kicks on after a set amount of time and will always be on after that point. I was hoping to actually get two-stage control from my thermostat, which apparently even the Gen 1 Nest supports. So, I'm going to run a new 8-conductor thermostat wire and just wanted a sanity check. Obviously the connections for power (Rh - which is actually daisy-chained through two overflow switches), heat (W1), cool (Y1), and ground (G) just get replaced as-is. Then remove the jumper on the furnace board between W1/W2, and run another conductor between W2 on the furnace and my thermostat. While my existing thermostat doesn't have a power problem without a C-wire, I know that is a problem some thermostats have, so I was going to go ahead and hook that up as well for fun-sies, and I figure a new thermostat will likely need it. I assume that is the B/C terminal on the furnace, which goes to C on the thermostat, but I am a little confused because B is a separate terminal on the thermostat, so they seem contradictory. This appears super simple, but wanted to double check with someone, thanks!
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Dec 22, 2021 05:04
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In (one of the many) color coding sets for hvac, B is for Blue, which was Common (0vac) In others, it was for a heat pump reversing valve. for you B/C = C
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Dec 22, 2021 05:09
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Residency Evil posted:Cross posting here: Is that electric radiant or hot water? I壇 try to use your Mitsubishi equipment as much as possible if that is electric radiant, since the radiant will be way more inefficient. I知 not sure if Nest has this option, but there are stats that have heat pump or electric heat switches on them. You should be able to hook that stat up to both your Mitsubishi equipment and radiant. When on heat pump mode, it runs the Mitsubishi, when on electric heat, it値l run the radiant. I値l have to see if I can find one. You could at least get your stats down to one per zone.
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Dec 22, 2021 13:03
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Bird in a Blender posted:Is that electric radiant or hot water? I壇 try to use your Mitsubishi equipment as much as possible if that is electric radiant, since the radiant will be way more inefficient. Hot water radiant. Entire system was just replaced/put in. My understanding is that the Nest/Ecobee thermostats are generally pretty "dumb" in comparison to the Mitsubishi thermostats, and although I could connect it, I'd be losing out on a lot of the mitsubishi features (variable fan speeds, dehumidification, etc).
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Dec 22, 2021 13:49
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I have an ecobee and it will do hum/dehum, and heat pumps up to 2 stage, but not variable. AFAIK once you have a full variable unit you are stuck with the manufacturer's stat. And if you give up variable control yeah that uh, defeats the whole point of having a variable unit. Radiant floors rule in cold climate, that was definitely installed to be the primary heating source with the mitsu system as supplemental/backup/mainly summer AC.
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Dec 22, 2021 20:32
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Residency Evil posted:Hot water radiant. Entire system was just replaced/put in. You probably want to talk to a Mitsubishi rep in your area to make sure you get the right thing, but they definitely have things that can communicate to your Mitsubishi unit and radiant heaters. With the Kumo station you can hook up an outside air sensor so it can kick on the radiant heat once it falls below a certain temp, but you'll need to get a Mitsu thermostat to work with it. They have a lot of thermostats, and some work with some things, and not others, so I don't want to tell you with any certainty what to get unless you have model #s for everything you have. http://mylinkdrive.com/viewPdf?srcU...20Submittal.pdf
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Dec 22, 2021 21:40
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The guy I notionally had hoped would do my install has been so slow at responding / confirming that I just had another vendor out yesterday that I scheduled back in September; much larger company, and they only came in ~$4K over the other guys' estimate. Key difference, these guys are very OK with doing an outdoor branch box install (other guy wanted to do two outdoor units to avoid the need), with the 8-port hyper heat unit (only 5 interior units though). And they're offering interest-free financing, which is interesting to me as that's more stupid 0DTE SPY calls I can buy (or, I try to negotiate a lower price up front because there's truly no such thing as 100% interest-free financing... you're paying extra, somehow.) Anyways -- now that its been a few months and I've had a few folks out, some of the key bones / points of contention seem to be: * Branch Box vs. No Branch Box. Outdoors is the only sane location for said box. From what I can find and read, there is no fundamental issue with placing it outdoors in a proper location (i.e., shaded / not baking in the sun) and insulating its enclosure. * BTU sizing for indoor units. I'm mostly interested in the ceiling cassettes, which only come in 9K, 15K and 18K. Only one of the vendors seemed like they did some pseudo-calculations, measuring size of each room; not a full Manual J calculation I think, but they aligned more with what I pictured in my head: 18K BTU unit on my main floor (~800 sf) with giant west-facing windows that bakes nicely in the summer, 9K in all the other bedrooms, and a 12K in my top floor office, which has hit 40C in the heat wave before. * How much of the installation cost should be electrical? I just did my own EV charger install / new outlets in my garage, and with the time I spent figuring out what the hell little things were called (i.e. reducing washers, bushings) + the little runs to Home Depot to get stuff, a dude rolling up with his truck/van where he's got all that stashed seems like it could be worth it. I know this run will be outdoors / mostly PVC, which I haven't worked with before. They're quoting $1600 -- I've got to assume that's a padded price to cover labor + the various materials (~50 FT of wire, a 30 A QO Breaker, etc.). If I think of the time it'll take me, the pricing I get on stuff vs pointing at my panel and outlining exactly where I want the wires run, starts to look worth it to me. * Any thoughts on Mitsu FS vs. EF series? I like the look of the latter better, and I kinda wrote off all the "smart" features the units have because I figured I'd run a controller on a server somewhere and have it do what I want. But, seems like the 3D Sensor + its swinging vanes and things like that might be worth it vs. a simple temperature control. * I've heard Kumo is poo poo, but if you can make it through the initial setup, you can then plug into Home Assistant / Home Bridge and sidestep their lovely app. Thoughts? * This most recent vendor offered a thing where if you pay them to do the annual maintenance, that'll keep the labor warranty extending forward. I know the maintenance is generally pretty simple and extended warranties are a scam, but if I'm honest with myself and how much free time I have... scheduling a guy to come out and check the condensate pumps / coils / filters 1x a year and have some lineset leak covered 5 years in sounds appealing. Or am I an idiot? I've got $34K vs. $38K quotes I'm looking at in the Seattle area -- definitely getting hosed on labor but not sure I have much of a choice in the matter. With previous quotes, walking through with the installation manager and pointing out the exact joist locations / lineset routing has resulted in the price dropping (since I've been tearing things up / digging around), so I'm hoping something similar might happen.
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Dec 24, 2021 21:58
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MRC48B posted:In (one of the many) color coding sets for hvac, B is for Blue, which was Common (0vac) Great, thanks!
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Dec 25, 2021 04:53
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I need some advice in here on improving airflow. My 1991, central Texas house has just garbage airflow to the far end of the house where the master bedroom is and one of the guest bedrooms/offices. The plenum out of the furnace/airhandler/whatever you call it has two ducts that come out feeding two halves of the house, with the master bedroom duct coming from two distribution boxes in the attic and I think at least two steps down in duct size. In addition, the main duct feeding the far end of the house has a sharp right angle turn in it that i imagine really restricts airflow. I have had two ideas about improving this: First I think the previous owners of the house may have smoked, or just didn't care of it, so from a cleanliness perspective I want to just replace the ducting and in doing so I'm sure whoever installs it could do a better job about not kinking it. Second, I was thinking that possibly adding a return duct to the master bedroom might reduce the load on the system and improve airflow a little more. I think that will be a little awkward since my return for the system is in a little crawl space in the living room, and to add that return will require running a duct from the back of the house, through the ceiling, the HVAC/hot water heater closet, and into the crawl space. I'm sure it's possible but I don't know how beneficial that will be. I had an HVAC guy come to the house to see if he could provide any suggestions and quote me for some improvement. I explained that when I bought the house I replaced the 25 year old HVAC system, but at the time couldn't afford the models with variable speed compressors or blowers. He s aid that there was a range of improvements he could do, but they would be expensive, and not necessarily ideal without being able to have a variable speed system. His proposal, that he said he didn't really like, as a stop gap was to redo the plenum and convert it to a zoned system with a second thermostat in the bedroom. This was going to run me about $6,000, but the guy hasn't sent me a quote/proposal yet. After talking to an acquaintance that also does HVAC installations, he said that zoning was a bad idea unless the system was upgraded to a variable speed model, and that the best solution would probably be to replace the ducts and add adjustable dampers to the distribution boxes to try and tune the airflow for the rooms we spend more time in. This seems like a reasonable suggestion, but I'm not sure how much that will cost or improve it. I'm not sure where to go from there, but it seems like zoned systems are finicky and bad.
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Dec 26, 2021 08:09
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Infinotize posted:I have an ecobee and it will do hum/dehum, and heat pumps up to 2 stage, but not variable. AFAIK once you have a full variable unit you are stuck with the manufacturer's stat. And if you give up variable control yeah that uh, defeats the whole point of having a variable unit. Yeah the radiant heaters/radiant floors are awesome. It's incredible how much an improvement they are over the forced air system in our old house. Bird in a Blender posted:You probably want to talk to a Mitsubishi rep in your area to make sure you get the right thing, but they definitely have things that can communicate to your Mitsubishi unit and radiant heaters. With the Kumo station you can hook up an outside air sensor so it can kick on the radiant heat once it falls below a certain temp, but you'll need to get a Mitsu thermostat to work with it. They have a lot of thermostats, and some work with some things, and not others, so I don't want to tell you with any certainty what to get unless you have model #s for everything you have. Oh, that's very interesting, thank you! We have these thermostats installed: https://www.amazon.com/MHK2-RedLINK-Wireless-Thermostat-Receiver/dp/B0871NC5CH I'm in contact with the HVAC subcontractor and will ask him about this, although I don't mind controlling the radiant heaters via Nest.
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Dec 26, 2021 15:31
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Residency Evil posted:Yeah the radiant heaters/radiant floors are awesome. It's incredible how much an improvement they are over the forced air system in our old house. Does Nest do line-voltage heaters now? I had to get Mysas for my kickbox heaters -- HomeKit compatible, sometimes flaky but they do the job I wanted of giving me a GUI to set schedules and checking stuff in HomeKit. The new ones at least are a bit slimmer. Looking forward for the ductless future -- I'm gonna keep a few of the kickbox breakers around for spot heat but otherwise I'm gonna just tie off the power and call it a day.
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Dec 27, 2021 00:13
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MetaJew posted:I need some advice in here on improving airflow. see if they put balance dampers for each half of the house. otherwise, dont do zoning unless you live in a mansion, or an office building.
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Dec 27, 2021 01:12
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MRC48B posted:otherwise, dont do zoning unless you live in a mansion, or an office building. If you live in a house big enough to need zoning you probably need to open that wallet up a little more and do it right with multiple systems.
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Dec 27, 2021 01:24
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MRC48B posted:see if they put balance dampers for each half of the house. Can you elaborate? This is the quote they emailed me. Not a lot of detail. What additional information should I ask for? If adding that additional return and redoing the ductwork will improve airflow to that corner of the house, I won't bother with zoning since I understand it probably won't really solve my problems without upgrading the compressor and blower/furnace. I do not know what "dedicate the master subplenum" means. code:
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Dec 27, 2021 01:57
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MetaJew posted:I need some advice in here on improving airflow. How many square feet are we talking here? My parents had a 2500 sq ft ranch and it simply needed to forced air units two keep the house cool. My inlaws have a similar amount of sq ft ranch and had a zoned system, and have gone back to a single zone (??? I think they got ripped off with their replacement unit.) Either way, consider adding a minisplit if you're looking for a cheaper way to guarantee climate control at that end of the house.
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Dec 27, 2021 05:52
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H110Hawk posted:How many square feet are we talking here? My parents had a 2500 sq ft ranch and it simply needed to forced air units two keep the house cool. My inlaws have a similar amount of sq ft ranch and had a zoned system, and have gone back to a single zone (??? I think they got ripped off with their replacement unit.) Tax record says 1676 square feet-- so somewhere around there or high 1500s if you account for wall thicknesses and what not. The thought of a minisplit in the bedroom or offices has crossed my mind, but I will need to get my electrical service upgraded. I'm already planning to upgrade the panel to charge our EV so adding a minisplit or two would be conceivable. Right now I'm leaning towards getting the ducts and distribution boxes replaced and asking for some adjustable dampers installed to try and tune it, but that is my totally uneducated idea.
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Dec 27, 2021 10:16
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Decided to test how well my heat-recovery ventilation system works, put a sensor in a vent to see what the incoming air was. -Outdoor temp: -8 -Indoor temp: 19.5C -Incoming air temp: 8.3C So the heat recovery system manages to raise the temperature of the incoming air by 16 degrees C, using the exiting indoor air which was ~19C. I think that's pretty decent recovery of otherwise wasted heat.
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Dec 27, 2021 10:56
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I actually did some calculations and the system is only around 60% efficient, that actually sucks. I should be getting around 80% I need to start fiddling with the vent settings in the rooms, think I got the incoming air flow too high.
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Dec 27, 2021 13:53
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What's the thoughts/opinions on inline scrubbers like this: https://www.airscrubberbyaerus.com My wife and both kids tend to have allergies to varying extents, so I'm thinking of getting one installed. I assume the filter MERV 10 filter it uses would need to get replaced on 6 month intervals.
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Dec 30, 2021 23:35
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Question about a Lennox SL280UH070V36A-03 that has thrown a 225 error (high pressure switch failed open) about 10 times in the last 18-ish hours. Backstory: our house lost power for 12 hours yesterday morning in Minnesota December, and got down to 50F. When it came back on the thermostat was set to 67F, which took 6-7 hours of furnace run time to hit. In retrospect, probably not a great idea to let it run continuously for that long. Popping the cover off the front of it and looking inside, I'm comfortable with buying a new pressure switch and doing a swap, but only want to do so if that's actually the problem. That error starting after running for so long seems like there might be some other troubleshooting to do beforehand to make sure that's actually the problem. So far it hasn't failed enough times to not run, so our house is still heated. Are there any other checks or quick maintenance items I should be doing before swapping out the part? Is it actually deceptively difficult to change out and I should defer to a professional? Are there any pictures or additional info that would make these questions easier to answer?
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Dec 30, 2021 23:37
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Are you sure it's actually running continuously? That seems like an exceptionally long time to recover, assuming your house is well insulated. Ours was tripping the burner temp limit switch a couple years ago, so even though it was "running" the circulator fan, we were only getting about 2-3 minutes of heat every 10 minutes, which still held temps at 70 when it was -15° outside. Can't help you much past that, but I'd replace the pressure switch and verify that it's actually heating. We figured it out because our smart thermostat would power off and reset every time the limit switch would shut the furnace down, luckily the installers came and adjusted our gas flow free under warranty because it was a new install.
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Dec 30, 2021 23:59
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Blowjob Overtime posted:Question about a Lennox SL280UH070V36A-03 that has thrown a 225 error (high pressure switch failed open) about 10 times in the last 18-ish hours. actual pressure switch failures are rare. please check that the tubing connecting the switch to the nipple on the furnace is clear of debris (including the nipple), has no cracks or tears. then check to ensure that the vent piping is clear and doesn't have ice buildup where it exhausts. burning gas creates water + co2. if ice or snow built up in the exhaust it can block proper air out. do all of the above (it won't take long), then replace the switch.
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Dec 31, 2021 02:47
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MRC48B posted:actual pressure switch failures are rare. please check that the tubing connecting the switch to the nipple on the furnace is clear of debris (including the nipple), has no cracks or tears. This. You just had your heating equipment that is rated to only be in a conditioned space in an unconditioned space. Has it actually warmed up to room temperature yet? If not, this may all just go away when it does.
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Dec 31, 2021 02:49
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SourKraut posted:What's the thoughts/opinions on inline scrubbers like this: https://www.airscrubberbyaerus.com The one you linked is pseudoscience at best, a scam at worst. You'll note it doesn't have a filter, it just works by "magic" Something from this list is actually going to be a real filter: https://shop.fantech.net/en-US/filtration/c46888 I put one in, it seems to help? It's hard to say... it's going to depend a lot.
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Dec 31, 2021 03:41
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devicenull posted:The one you linked is pseudoscience at best, a scam at worst. You'll note it doesn't have a filter, it just works by "magic" Thanks for the feedback! I hadn't even looked at the full owner's manual, and based on the HVAC's company offer sheet, I had seen where they were providing a MERV10 filter with it as an "upgrade". Looking more into it, it looks like it's just a deeper filter for the return grill and then yeah, the UV lamp/ozone generator that gets installed into the ductwork. Yeah I'm gonna pass.
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Dec 31, 2021 05:31
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MRC48B posted:actual pressure switch failures are rare. please check that the tubing connecting the switch to the nipple on the furnace is clear of debris (including the nipple), has no cracks or tears. Motronic posted:This. You just had your heating equipment that is rated to only be in a conditioned space in an unconditioned space. Has it actually warmed up to room temperature yet? If not, this may all just go away when it does.  It hasn't had that error pop up now since I made that post, and all of the above makes me feel a lot better that it won't pop up again at the worst possible time. Figured it had to be related to the long runtime, but wasn't sure if it was a fix-it-now issue, or something that would work itself out. When it was open I checked all the liquid lines coming out and they seemed fine, but hadn't considered issues from all the water that went out as exhaust, too. Also that area of the basement is the furthest point in the house from any supply vents, so it worked like hell for 7 hours to get the thermostat upstairs to 67, but did so sitting in the coldest part of the house.
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Dec 31, 2021 15:17
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SourKraut posted:Thanks for the feedback! I hadn't even looked at the full owner's manual, and based on the HVAC's company offer sheet, I had seen where they were providing a MERV10 filter with it as an "upgrade". Looking more into it, it looks like it's just a deeper filter for the return grill and then yeah, the UV lamp/ozone generator that gets installed into the ductwork. Also, not sure about that particular model, but I know similar units by AtmosAir were tested and found to create dangerous levels of ozone. Maybe that's why they ask if you're from California when you go to that site: https://ww2.arb.ca.gov/our-work/programs/air-cleaners-ozone-products/potentially-hazardous-ozone-generators-sold-air
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Dec 31, 2021 22:57
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Hey all, wondering about a strange furnace issue that I was hoping you all could help me troubleshoot. New (to us) house of about 3 weeks. Appx 20 year old Carrier furnace. HVAC contractor came out right after we moved in and gave it a very cursory check: no gas leaks, no CO, functioning basically fine. Couple nights ago we got snow and temps w/ near 0 wind chill. Yesterday I wake up and notice the thermostat is set at 68, temp in room about 63, thermostat showing heat is on but furnace not running at all. I turn the thermostat off and back on, furnace fan turns out but it's locked out and doesn't light. I notice the panel isn't sitting flush, re-seat it, and flame kicks on and furnace is up and running again w/ no issue. It runs fine all day yesterday, kicking on and off, making heat w/ no problem. Then, around 5 a.m. this morning, I notice the same scenario as yesterday. Open it up, take a layperson's look around, clean up some dust, re-seat the door, turn on the thermostat again, and it's functioning normally. At some point this year we're going to replace it for a heating/cooling system of some kind, but my hope moving in originally was to use this one through the winter. I have no idea how to tell if there's just some weird thermostat/switch issue or if this is indicative of some larger issue warranting the unit's replacement sooner than anticipated. Is there anything I can do on my own before getting another contractor out to take a look?
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Jan 3, 2022 19:39
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Sounds like the door is popping loose because of temperature changes and tripping the door sensor. Check to see if all the screws are installed. Could be the tech you had out forgot to put them all back in. You could also use some HVAC foil tape to help hold the door panel on and see if that helps.
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Jan 3, 2022 19:51
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That makes sense. I've had other furnaces before with screws, but this one has one big panel that seems to just sit on a rail on the bottom and snap in up top. That could also explain the vibration noise I forgot to mention that I sometimes hear when it kicks on. I'll look into grabbing some foil tape, too. Are there other possibilities that I should consider?
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Jan 3, 2022 19:58
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kgibson posted:Are there other possibilities that I should consider? If you're really not doing much inside other than reseating the door, this is probably it. Is there any kind of visible control panel on the unit? It may flash a code when it kicks out to give you more details or confirm the problem. If you have a make/model from a nameplate someone might have some more ideas.
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Jan 3, 2022 20:18
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TacoHavoc posted:If you're really not doing much inside other than reseating the door, this is probably it. Is there any kind of visible control panel on the unit? It may flash a code when it kicks out to give you more details or confirm the problem. If you have a make/model from a nameplate someone might have some more ideas. Sometimes the back of the panels themselves have the LED flash diagnostic summaries on them too. I recommend taking pictures of any labels or model #s you find on it now for future reference. It sucks rear end to be doing research online and then having to climb up into the attic or wherever to double check a number.
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Jan 3, 2022 20:28
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I looked around inside and on the two sides of the unit that I can see and can't seem to find a control panel. Incidentally, a lengthy search online for a manual didn't turn anything up, either. It's a Carrier Weathermaker 9300TS. Thank you both for your help with this! e: Indeed there is an LED error indicator that a friend just guided me to. Right now it's off, of course, since the machine is working, but I'll check again if/when it doesn't kick back on. kgibson fucked around with this message at 22:36 on Jan 3, 2022 |
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Jan 3, 2022 21:34
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kgibson posted:I looked around inside and on the two sides of the unit that I can see and can't seem to find a control panel. Incidentally, a lengthy search online for a manual didn't turn anything up, either. It's a Carrier Weathermaker 9300TS. Thank you both for your help with this! That's almost certainly it. You can verify this temporarily by taping down the button and making sure it fires. Don't sleep/leave with it like that, if the door comes loose you need it to stop. Make sure whatever is holding the door switch is also firmly mounted where it originally was and there isn't some slop there that could be combining with slop in the door to cause this issue. Find the exact model of your unit - there is a more detailed sticker somewhere that likely says more than 9300TS. Check out this random google result, see the sticker? Find that. Take pictures of all the "plates" or model stickers you have on appliances and stick em in a folder. You will thank me later. https://thedailythrive.org/carrier-serial-number-where-to-find-how-to-read/
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Jan 5, 2022 03:45
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