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One of the last of a dying breed 2 stroke 250cc V-twin 55 hp 17 liter tank 6 gears 167kg wet The Aprilia rs250 Street legal variant of their 1993 gp250 winner, minor revisions up to the last road legal ones in 2004. Still produced for race use later apperantly. Picture is of a 1997 colour way. Lots of detailed info here
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# ? Dec 3, 2021 23:15 |
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# ? May 28, 2024 15:45 |
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NEED. GIVE.
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# ? Dec 3, 2021 23:33 |
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It’s wild that companies used to make pretty decent replicas of their GP bikes and sell them. That’s basically what the RD350 was as well
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# ? Dec 4, 2021 00:24 |
Supradog posted:One of the last of a dying breed These are cool but also kind of a nightmare. For a much better but less glamorous bike with an identical engine, check out the vj22 rgv250.
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# ? Dec 4, 2021 00:38 |
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Funny you mention that, I was just looking at one of those on my local bike auction's website https://iconicmotorbikeauctions.com/auction/no-reserve-1992-suzuki-rgv250-vj22/
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# ? Dec 4, 2021 01:09 |
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Someone used to street park an RGV250 (not sure exactly which) in the next neighborhood over and I should have left a "plz let me ride" post-it-note when I had the chance.
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# ? Dec 4, 2021 03:20 |
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MomJeans420 posted:Funny you mention that, I was just looking at one of those on my local bike auction's website
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# ? Dec 4, 2021 04:05 |
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SOFT DAMP (Post your best silly stock logo/bike tech marketing slogan)
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# ? Jan 6, 2022 23:37 |
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I’m the soft, damp elefant
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# ? Jan 7, 2022 00:44 |
There's always parallelogrammo
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# ? Jan 7, 2022 02:20 |
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TORQUE INDUCTION
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# ? Jan 7, 2022 02:58 |
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Slavvy posted:There's always parallelogrammo Now this I like
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# ? Jan 7, 2022 03:31 |
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Even if the project is dead, Sagebrush should post pics of his homemade dashboard here.
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# ? Jan 8, 2022 15:14 |
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Funny you should say that! Today I have been taking it apart to fix some broken parts and make upgrades. The temperature gauge was bugging me a lot. The Hawk's stock sensor is one of those dumb single-wire ones that grounds through the frame, meaning the reading was extraordinarily noisy, and it would fluctuate as the bike's system voltage went up and down. Super annoying. Also, because of the characteristics of that sensor, it lost a lot of resolution at the top end when read digitally, which is a problem because that's exactly where you want a precise reading. So anyway I found a new proper 2-wire sensor that fits the Hawk, which means I can isolate it from the bike's electrical system and get much smoother data. However, it is still an analog device and thus must be calibrated before use. So here I am boiling it on my stove while it's connected to the dashboard and taped to a reasonably accurate digital probe. I started the pot with ice-cold water, and took about 20 readings comparing the analog sensor and the digital one as the water heated up. Plotted those points and did a couple of different regressions to find the sensor's response curve. I'm still fine-tuning the lookup table, but so far it is much more accurate and hits 100 degrees precisely as the water reaches a rolling boil, which gives me confidence. As for continued development of the thing: the main issue is that the OLED display, although it looks fantastic at night, is not really readable in full sun. I haven't done a whole lot of work on it over the last two years, but the big stumbling block has been trying to find an appropriate alternate display. It's nearly impossible to find something that has the right look, with the right performance in all lighting conditions, that is suitable for automotive use, and which isn't some industrial display that costs a million dollars. Display technology changes every year, though, so there's stuff that's available now that simply didn't exist when I started the project. I recently found a couple of parts that I'm pretty stoked about. A little on the expensive side, but they meet about 90% of my ideal requirements, and have some major benefits that will cut the cost and size down in other areas and open up additional options. So now it's just dealing with the COVID-related total logjam of all electronic parts planetwide, ugh. But stay tuned...
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# ? Jan 9, 2022 01:26 |
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Wow, I'm glad to see that it's still around. Amazing breadboard engineering.
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# ? Jan 9, 2022 04:38 |
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It occurs that I've never posted what it looks like on the inside: This is part of why I haven't offered to make more of this one to sell, lol. That's probably 50 hours of point-to-point wiring work. The next version will definitely have a proper custom circuit board, at least for a bunch of the stuff. (one big advantage of the alternate displays I'm looking at is vastly simplified wiring) Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 05:00 on Jan 9, 2022 |
# ? Jan 9, 2022 04:52 |
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Sagebrush posted:It occurs that I've never posted what it looks like on the inside: Nice work! Re: your earlier comment about the OLED screen not being readable in sunlight, would a Kindle-type electronic paper screen work better? Suggestion offered as a true non-expert, by the way 😕
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# ? Jan 14, 2022 12:37 |
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E-ink is nice, but the refresh rate is like 1fps with a black-white cycle in between frames. If you don't, you get bad ghosting. It's also papery grey, which is nice for reading but boring for yay motorcycle stuff. OLED is by far the nicest display tech, but with the downside of being sensitive to burn in and UV light.
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# ? Jan 14, 2022 12:47 |
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LimaBiker posted:E-ink is nice, but the refresh rate is like 1fps with a black-white cycle in between frames. If you don't, you get bad ghosting. Thanks for the info! I hadn't thought about refresh rate, although the boring monochrome screen was already a limiting factor in my mind as I wrote. OK, back to spectating for me!
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# ? Jan 14, 2022 12:54 |
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Frazzbo posted:Nice work! Re: your earlier comment about the OLED screen not being readable in sunlight, would a Kindle-type electronic paper screen work better? Suggestion offered as a true non-expert, by the way 😕 Yeah, as LimaBiker says, e-ink is definitely very readable in sunlight, but it refreshes extremely slowly. Best case it takes a second or so, and the more rugged displays (like the ones used for those electronic tags in stores) can take 30 seconds or more to fully cycle. Great for mostly static displays that you want to draw zero power when not changing. Not usable for a responsive instrument system. OLEDs are great because they have instant response and the black is truly black, so at night you just have perfect glowing grid lines without LCD panel glow. Unfortunately, they are still very dim. The technology is getting better, but currently the brightest displays emit around 500 cd/m^2, which is about half the 1000 that is needed to be considered viewable in full, direct sunlight. Most motorcycle digital dashboards are transflective LCDs, like a digital watch. These are highly readable in sunlight and can be backlit at night. They're monochrome, but that isn't a huge disadvantage for me given the design I'm going for. The problem is that they have a lot of light leakage and glow around the pixels, so you don't get a very crisp image; they get really sluggish in cold temperature and darker in the heat, and so require a temperature compensation circuit; and graphic ones with a pixel grid (vs. pre-segmented ones like most motorcycle gauges) are ridiculously expensive these days for what they are, since no one is using them anymore. I am currently looking at an aviation-grade IPS TFT, with about 1200 cd/m^2 brightness, high contrast, and a fully variable backlight that goes right down to zero. This should be better in every way than any of the other solutions except for the nighttime panel background glow, but with a variable backlight I should be able to knock the glow down to an extremely minimal level, or do some other clever optical tricks to make it not as obvious.
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# ? Jan 14, 2022 18:08 |
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What would happen if you'd use one LCD as a backlight for the other? Kinda in the way they do dynamic contrast with LED backlit TVs, but with a higher resolution?
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# ? Jan 14, 2022 23:19 |
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# ? Jan 20, 2022 14:52 |
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Cocaine is a hell of a drug.
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# ? Jan 20, 2022 16:30 |
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MST3K stunt double lookin rear end
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# ? Jan 20, 2022 17:54 |
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Your Robin is missing a wheel!
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# ? Jan 20, 2022 17:55 |
Chris Knight posted:Your Robin is missing a wheel! You beat me while I was literally searching for a pic of a robin
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# ? Jan 20, 2022 18:01 |
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Designed by Soviet Czechs?
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# ? Jan 21, 2022 04:01 |
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oh hell yes
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# ? Jan 21, 2022 04:36 |
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Designed by Soviet Czechs? Oh that is good.
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# ? Jan 22, 2022 14:23 |
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Designed by Soviet Czechs? Snoopy: the scooter
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# ? Jan 23, 2022 22:26 |
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its all nice on rice posted:the snooter
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# ? Jan 25, 2022 04:31 |
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A 1930 Henderson streamline.
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# ? Jan 25, 2022 13:04 |
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Thought it was a BMW with those nostrils.
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# ? Jan 25, 2022 18:38 |
The best part is there's an air cooled, longitudinally mounted inline four under that.
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# ? Jan 25, 2022 18:49 |
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Is that a hand stick shifter?
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# ? Jan 26, 2022 03:50 |
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https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Suicide_clutch
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# ? Jan 26, 2022 04:57 |
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# ? Jan 27, 2022 15:25 |
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Sick. SICK
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# ? Jan 27, 2022 17:23 |
It's always funny when people try to do some kind of avant garde stuff but they're not nerds (at least not the right kind) so they can't see the hideously pedestrian wheels and suspension that jump out at you like dogs balls.
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# ? Jan 27, 2022 18:43 |
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# ? May 28, 2024 15:45 |
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yep. yep Slavvy posted:It's always funny when people try to do some kind of avant garde stuff but they're not nerds (at least not the right kind) so they can't see the hideously pedestrian wheels and suspension that jump out at you like dogs balls. tri-wing wheels are objectively the best kind of wheels other than spoked wheels, but i agree that the spindly econobike forks and teeny solid rotors are a bit of a lol
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# ? Jan 27, 2022 20:54 |