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Raluek posted:if it's a k-car, that's immediate cred Sadly no. I guess even in the US parts are getting scarce for those. And I'm a mere 8k kilometres away, so I imagine the situation is even worse around here.
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Dec 5, 2021 09:49
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Dec 5, 2021 18:12
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Me driving to the dealership for my oil change
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Dec 5, 2021 18:54
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Yeah, that's a beauty, have seen it around. Toyota only sold the Previa in Europe, and there's not many left, so the used market is pretty worn. At least the Voyagers were assembled in Austria, so the selection is a bit bigger (though I did not want a diesel one, as I typically make small trips, few and far between - and about 90% of the ones sold still are those). And beside the AT obsession I had another kink. I wanted a V engine. And only the Voyagers had these combined (well, and some Ford Galaxy editions, but those are even more a rarity). But enough about my mental issues. I've got what I wanted, and maybe it will suck but so far I'm happy. And if anyone out there has any usage gotchas that a new AT user might find useful, I'd be happy to hear it.
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Dec 5, 2021 19:00
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Great photo of the beast.
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Dec 5, 2021 19:36
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Dec 5, 2021 20:04
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Jim DiGriz posted:And if anyone out there has any usage gotchas that a new AT user might find useful, I'd be happy to hear it. Your parking pawl will break if you abuse it, so try to be aware of how you park and try not to have too much pressure on your pawl. Use your parking brake. Shifting out of overdrive feels better for me when I drive my minivan around town, I'll usually put it back in overdrive once I'm on the highway. That's about all I have, autos are pretty simple to operate. Welcome to the van life!
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Dec 5, 2021 20:05
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VelociBacon posted:Me driving to the dealership for my oil change Too soon
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Dec 5, 2021 20:17
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GOD IS BED posted:Your parking pawl will break if you abuse it, so try to be aware of how you park and try not to have too much pressure on your pawl. Use your parking brake. That parking pawl thing is great to know, thanks! I now also know about overdrive and how this car does not have it  .
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Dec 5, 2021 21:03
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I think the parking pawl thing is not actually a real issue. I understand that there was one line of Chrysler (? probably) transmissions in like the late '80s that were unusually weak in that way, so a few pawls broke, and then a generation of drivers' ed instructors beat the concept into every millennial's head. But I've literally never heard of a parking pawl breaking off these days, and if it was even infinitesimally likely you'd think it would be a regular occurrence given the number of people who drive automatic transmissions and never use their parking brake.
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Dec 5, 2021 21:46
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Sagebrush posted:I think the parking pawl thing is not actually a real issue. I understand that there was one line of Chrysler (? probably) transmissions in like the late '80s that were unusually weak in that way, so a few pawls broke, and then a generation of drivers' ed instructors beat the concept into every millennial's head. But I've literally never heard of a parking pawl breaking off these days, and if it was even infinitesimally likely you'd think it would be a regular occurrence given the number of people who drive automatic transmissions and never use their parking brake. It wasn't just that one transmission/pawl. It happens regularly in my experience, as someone who has been involved in vehicle rescue and towing kinda stuff. It of course disproportionately seems to happen with bigger/heavier vehicles and of course always happens on steeper slopes. But I've seen it at least once every couple of years, and I'm not living in SF, just a river valley that's not nearly as steep. Use your parking brake if you're on a hill. Not only is it cheap insurance, but it's also the thing that ends up rusted together and not working if you aren't using it on a regular basis in areas that see snow/salt/etc.
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Dec 5, 2021 21:54
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the fragility of pawls is overblown sure, but it's best practice/zero effort to just use your drat brake
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Dec 5, 2021 21:55
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pnac attack posted:the fragility of pawls is overblown sure, but it's best practice/zero effort to just use your drat brake This I heartily agree with, and on a front wheel drive vehicle you're distributing the holding force to all four wheels. Also it keeps your brake pads in use so they should work when you need them to. As in, not using it is more likely that it will sieze in place or the pads get contaminated and not hold.
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Dec 5, 2021 22:06
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Jim DiGriz posted:After driving stick for 20+ years I've finally bough an old car with an AT. I know the basics, and by that I mean I can go forward and reverse, I understand the lower gears' roles, creep, whatnot. Do you guys have any tips I might have not considered? Like how automatics don't like being towed, or something. Another experience you will probably have eventually that can be quite exciting is going for the clutch out of habit and hitting the wide brake pedal instead.
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Dec 6, 2021 16:43
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wolrah posted:Another experience you will probably have eventually that can be quite exciting is going for the clutch out of habit and hitting the wide brake pedal instead. Also shutting the car off in drive and wondering why the keys won't come out of the ignition.
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Dec 6, 2021 16:59
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wolrah posted:Adding to parking brake chat, if the previous owner(s) were normal people they probably used it rarely to never unless it came from somewhere particularly hilly. This can mean that when you first go to use it the cable breaks. Or worse, when you go to release it the cable jams. If you plan to use the parking brake on an older automatic it's probably a good idea to look in to lubricating it and then run it on and off a bunch to make sure it's working well while parked somewhere you could work on it if it jams up. It's working for now, but yeah, I'll have that checked with my mechanic the next time, good idea. I kinda had a scare with it, because we drove for it in another Chrysler in which the release method was kicking it again - so when I first engaged it in the Voyager, I forgot about it having a pull hatch and kicked it in at least three times. It survived. wolrah posted:Another experience you will probably have eventually that can be quite exciting is going for the clutch out of habit and hitting the wide brake pedal instead. That both my wife and I managed to avoid so far, surprisingly. I still reach for the stick and the handbrake from time to time, tho. opengl128 posted:Also shutting the car off in drive and wondering why the keys won't come out of the ignition. Did it on my second stop or so already.
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Dec 6, 2021 19:19
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Pawl talk: I like to set the parking brake, shift to neutral, let off the brake, let the car settle, then shift to park. For some reason I feel better leaving the car with no pressure on the transmission, but it's probably not necessary. This thread moves fast, jumping back to 4 pages ago, my wife got the F150, no negotiation, for $34k. It was street parked in salt air so there's minor surface rust on the edges of suspension and frame bits. Sigh. It's not my problem anymore, it's her money (she's blowing an inheritance). She then went over to the local Airstream dealer and said "give me that one"; it's being delivered in 2 months or so.
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Dec 6, 2021 19:32
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Honda 2007 Civic SI, K20, prior owner(s) did at least aftermarket front sway bar, springs, and exhaust. (thanks for earlier thread advice on wheel balancing shudder!) Had a noise come up while hard cornering during first ever autocross event back in September 2021. Sounded (briefly) extreme like a brake pad fell out or something (metal-on-metal) but has never happened since, no obvious damage, etc. As it's been getting colder I've gotten an intermittent 'clunk' when coming away from a dead stop - feels like a caliper isn't releasing all the way, but it could be a worn suspension element? Now the car thinks the Ebrake is on intermittently, even if I don't use it while parking, and it's worse when it's cold. The car rolls forever in neutral despite this so there is no actual brake engagement. The sensor however makes the VSA freak out until the brake light goes away and I 'reboot' the car. There are zero noticeable noise, handling, braking, etc. problems except for that occasional "clunk" when I'm pulling away from a stop, and the warning lights.  Ebrake cable sticking? ABS sensor bad or loose? Caliper knocked out of alignment when I was doing wheel changes? Any next steps easier than redoing the brake calipers and cables at all four corners? JohnnySavs fucked around with this message at 20:46 on Dec 6, 2021 |
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Dec 6, 2021 20:16
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I don't know that car but the brake light will also come on if you're low on fluid, so if it's illuminating as you stop, accelerate, etc, check that
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Dec 6, 2021 20:19
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JohnnySavs posted:Honda 2007 Civic SI, K20, prior owner(s) did at least aftermarket front sway bar, springs, and exhaust. (thanks for earlier thread advice on wheel balancing shudder!) Maybe see what the code is with a tool first. Your description of what happened during the autoX sounds like maybe you broke a rear sway bar endlink. If your ABS sensor was damaged I would expect the "(ABS)" dash light, not the brake one. Are your front pads low? Maybe that's the dash light for when your front pad with the sensor in it gets down to a low level.
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Dec 6, 2021 20:21
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AnnoyBot posted:Pawl talk: I like to set the parking brake, shift to neutral, let off the brake, let the car settle, then shift to park. For some reason I feel better leaving the car with no pressure on the transmission, but it's probably not necessary. I do that too, not that I drive autos that much. If you're on a hill, it gives you a good indication of if the parking brake needs to be adjusted too.
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Dec 7, 2021 02:27
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JohnnySavs posted:Had a noise come up while hard cornering during first ever autocross event back in September 2021. Sounded (briefly) extreme like a brake pad fell out or something (metal-on-metal) but has never happened since, no obvious damage, etc. My guess is a rock got into the wheel and was trapped for a little bit against the rotor. It happened to me a couple times at autocrosses and I've seen it happen to a couple other people as well. quote:As it's been getting colder I've gotten an intermittent 'clunk' when coming away from a dead stop - feels like a caliper isn't releasing all the way, but it could be a worn suspension element? My Miata does this on occasion, and I've read that it's normal. Keep an eye on it, but it could just be how the brakes work.
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Dec 7, 2021 02:45
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JohnnySavs posted:Honda 2007 Civic SI, K20, prior owner(s) did at least aftermarket front sway bar, springs, and exhaust. (thanks for earlier thread advice on wheel balancing shudder!) As far as the light, check your brake fluid. That light is a general brake warning light, it's not just for the parking brake. It'll come on for low fluid, loss of pressure in one of the circuits, etc. If it is low, don't fill it to the brim - it'll fill back up considerably next time you get brakes done (lots of fluid stays in the calipers). Instead add just enough to turn off the light.
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Dec 7, 2021 02:57
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I have a hole in the roof of my camper van. The PO did it, then covered it with this very advanced patching mechanism; despite his clear expertise, the thing has begun dripping on my passenger headrest.   is this something I can reasonably patch myself, or will I need to take it to an RV shop to do better than the bucket lid? Javid fucked around with this message at 05:43 on Dec 7, 2021 |
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Dec 7, 2021 05:10
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My hazard lights have stopped working in my 2011 Kia Forte. Could it be something as simple as replacing a fuse? I have checked my blinker functionality and they all work properly.
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Dec 7, 2021 15:58
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The Midniter posted:My hazard lights have stopped working in my 2011 Kia Forte. Could it be something as simple as replacing a fuse? I have checked my blinker functionality and they all work properly. It's either going to be the hazard switch fuse, or the hazard relay fuse, although it could be the switch itself. skipdogg fucked around with this message at 16:25 on Dec 7, 2021 |
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Dec 7, 2021 16:22
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Javid posted:I have a hole in the roof of my camper van. The PO did it, then covered it with this very advanced patching mechanism; despite his clear expertise, the thing has begun dripping on my passenger headrest. It's hard to tell from your photos: is your roof metal or fiberglass? Either way it's going to be a pain to patch it yourself, but I think fiberglass is easier to do a good job DIY. If it's metal and you're OK with a half-assed job, you could cut a patch that's bigger than the hole out of sheet steel or sheet aluminum (depending on the van's skin material), clean that really well, sand back the paint on your van, and epoxy that in place with some Loctite metal/concrete epoxy. Then re-prime and re-paint everything you sanded. If it's fiberglass, you'd want to sand a big area around the hole, cut a wooden plug for the plywood structure, and then lay down increasingly large patches of fiberglass and epoxy on top of the hole to bond the patch with the skin of the camper. Then sand and paint. tl;dr it's going to be a pain in the rear end, but how big a pain in the rear end it is is up to you. edit: you could also find a roof vent that fits and just do a good job installing that. Safety Dance fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Dec 7, 2021 |
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Dec 7, 2021 17:03
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Update on my supposedly moribund Forte: Took it to a local mechanic, got the rear calipers replaced for less than $500. The pistons were seized and rusted on the inside. Drives great. Said not to bother replacing rotors or pads since there’s a lot of meat left. Lots of poo poo to fix still but I had a heart attack pricing out new cars so I’m stuck with this for a while. Kinda happy, I like me old motor.
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Dec 7, 2021 19:41
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Charles posted:I don't know that car but the brake light will also come on if you're low on fluid, so if it's illuminating as you stop, accelerate, etc, check that VelociBacon posted:Maybe see what the code is with a tool first. Your description of what happened during the autoX sounds like maybe you broke a rear sway bar endlink. STR posted:As far as the light, check your brake fluid. That light is a general brake warning light, it's not just for the parking brake. It'll come on for low fluid, loss of pressure in one of the circuits, etc. Many thanks! I think this was a combination of the above - I was assuming they were related. The brake fluid is indeed right at the "min" level, so I will half-max it and monitor until I get the fluid changed. Also, driver side sway bar isn't in the same orientation as passenger side, which jives with the autocross excitement and is probably the "thunk" coming from back there. Curious: How "often" does brake fluid lower like that? I.e. could I have a pinhole leak somewhere? No idea on how long it's been since the last top-off/flush. Am I probably looking at just a replacement endlink and bolts, or a whole swaybar replacement (especially since I've been driving around with it off-kilter for ~500 miles? Maybe the endlink failure damaged a line and that's where the brake fluid is going?
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Dec 7, 2021 21:11
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Two causes for brake fluid dropping: 1) brake pad wear 2) a leak
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Dec 7, 2021 21:14
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1998 Chevy S10. So the car is inspected and passed (and the inspector was actually pleased with my work and how the truck looks generally underneath, which was a surprise) and works. The only bit that I feel I need to sort is the fact that the truck does a lurch when moving from P to D, D to R etc. I also get the feeling that it sometimes might be slow to change gear while driving (but it smooth unless I am flooring it). The previous owner showed a receipt for an oil change of the automatic transmission done about 2-3 years ago. I don't remember what the dip stick showed, and haven't had time to look at it so I thought I'd ask before the next time I go see the car. I'm not very experienced with automatic transmissions, but from some reading the first check should be oil level and not assume that the workshop filled it up properly? Apart from the couple of hours it took to drive it home when I purchased it I've driven it <100km so haven't had too much time to spend with it on the road. I also need to see if I can find an original throttle plate because of course someone decided that removing the "wedge" that afaik is supposed to smooth out the power delivery was a great way to get "free hp". The only thing it does it making the truck twitchy when initially pressing on the throttle.  Can likely get one of these from a Blazer at a pick-n-pull though. Don't want to get sucked into more stuff on this truck as the whole point was to use it for driving poo poo to the dump when renovating a house. But the transmission thing doesn't sit right with me as I don't want to leave something that could cause damage. Hmm, I should also do a coolant flush as I don't trust the P.O with anything regarding this truck. I do really like it though. Makes me smile for some dumb reason.
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Dec 8, 2021 08:39
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How much of a lurch are we talking about? I've never driven an automatic that didn't have at least some sort of jerk/movement when shifting in and out of drive or reverse. It also could be that your idle is set too high, especially if someone has hosed with the throttle body in the past. Otherwise yes, check the fluid level. Proper procedure is to get it good and warm while driving, park on a level surface, shift from park to 1 to park again (stopping ~3 seconds in each gear), and then check the dipstick with the engine still running at idle.
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Dec 8, 2021 08:45
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IOwnCalculus posted:How much of a lurch are we talking about? I've never driven an automatic that didn't have at least some sort of jerk/movement when shifting in and out of drive or reverse. It also could be that your idle is set too high, especially if someone has hosed with the throttle body in the past. Not enough that the car shunts, but enough to feel a bit rough. When driving there is no shunt, but more of a feeling of it shifting a bit late. It's worse when cold IIRC. When I did the spider injectors I took apart the throttle body and clean + painted it. It did idle high after that, but fixed it with the adjuster screw as much as was possible. It could absolutely still be idling a bit high as the flow over the plate is compromised after some PO hosed with it. Thanks for the procedure, I'll do it the next time I'm at the truck and see what horrors with reveal themselves. Edit: Could also be the mounts that I highly doubt have been swapped in the last 24 years. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 13:06 on Dec 8, 2021 |
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Dec 8, 2021 09:04
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Does the receipt say what oil the transmission was filled with? But otherwise yes transmission mounts are likely.
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Dec 8, 2021 17:35
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Does the receipt say what oil the transmission was filled with? Yeah good point. Was thinking about that just now as well. I'll have to dig up the receipt. I mean I should trust it but as it's (IIRC) a reputable workshop chain. Either way I'll likely redo it at some point. It seems like it's not as simple as a normal oil change. I mean he'd better have gotten the right oil and amount as he paid like $500 (or whatever the conversion makes it) for it lmao. gently caress buying anything for this truck local. Basically everything costs double compared to just buying it (including shipping and import fees) from the US. Only the basics can be had for a reasonable price locally.
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Dec 8, 2021 18:02
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So I have a Lexus CT 200H hatch, 2012. It’s a great car (there were issues of it having a clean title, but long story short it’s been good), but I have misplaced one of the 2 key fobs. I know it’s somewhere around, but I realized I need to get a backup anyway. What’s cheapest way to do this but still have a solid key? I saw this on Amazon, I’m assuming taking this to a local locksmith would cover it? https://www.amazon.com/BexKeyless-Replacement-2009-2015-2010-2015-2010-2016/dp/B08SKFF5BV Or this? https://www.keylessentryremotefob.c...j4aAhDmEALw_wcB I worry on the second one because that fob has four buttons but mine only had three (no trunk button). But it matches model though. LionArcher fucked around with this message at 09:07 on Dec 9, 2021 |
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Dec 9, 2021 08:59
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I have a 2019 expedition. Water is leaking out of t passenger side bottom after I drive it. My first guess was AC but I tired turning everything off and it’s still there. Pics:   Last one is looking up from where the drip is Coming from. Do I need to get this looked at?
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Dec 10, 2021 03:09
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That’s just water from the condenser. It keeps draining for a while even if you shut the car off. If there’s a residue after it dries then be concerned. Do you live somewhere humid? skipdogg fucked around with this message at 03:25 on Dec 10, 2021 |
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Dec 10, 2021 03:19
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LionArcher posted:So I have a Lexus CT 200H hatch, 2012. I sell and program keys and fobs at a Batteries Plus, I would program either of those for $70 (we're franchises, so your local one may have a different price, but it's about what I'd expect a locksmith to charge as well). Because I didn't sell you the key, I'd charge you $70 even if the attempt is unsuccessful (and this is another franchise thing, it may vary), so if you can, use your VIN to make sure the fob they are selling you is correct. That said, Toyota/Lexus keys are usually pretty easy to program with the correct equipment and if your car has the ability, the trunk button should work. Otherwise, the button won't do anything and the other buttons will work as normal. Have the tech program the fob before cutting the key, so if the fob is wrong, you can still return it to get the right one.
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Dec 10, 2021 03:28
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skipdogg posted:That’s just water from the condenser. It keeps draining for a while even if you shut the car off. Bay Area, CA. I’ve tried shutting off all the climate control stuff and I’m still seeing this.
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Dec 10, 2021 04:06
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