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surivdaoreht posted:Do you still use non-ethanol gas or it doesn't matter when you use the stabil? I get what I get. When some time close to winter rolls around I end up with ethanol and/or more ethanol. They aren't really specific about it here and don't have to be (so that's why they aren't) but you can tell. I used to see my mileage tank in me ford 4.6 pickup when I had that thing. And if the EGR passages weren't clear enough it would start to ping under load. It was like a switch as soon as the higher ethanol gas deliveries started seasonally.
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Dec 2, 2021 02:58
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2014 Ford F150 Ecoboost trukk with a too-loud exhaust and too-quiet intake. Fixed it. It's a Vibrant Ultra Quiet resonator added to the MBRP side-exit exhaust, and CVF intake. I know it does nothing for performance, but it makes excellent choo-choo noises. I have a huge intercooler coming that I'll get it re-tuned for. I have a decent canned tune from Brew City Boost on it right now, but I'm getting a custom one next time. It's decently quick now for a 2 and a half ton behemoth and an excellent tow pig. It easily outpulls the GM 6.2L I had previously, that thing wouldn't tow my travel trailer at 65 mph at less than around 3800 rpm. This one will do it at 2200 all day.  
wallaka fucked around with this message at 04:03 on Dec 2, 2021 |
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Dec 2, 2021 03:57
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Motronic posted:Yep, probably. At least in the before times LowesDepot had both the straight gas type and the 50:1 oil premix.  wallaka posted:2014 Ford F150 Ecoboost trukk with a too-loud exhaust and too-quiet intake. Fixed it. How's your towing mileage in comparison? I feel like being in boost all the time with the Ford would be worse but I'm curious.
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Dec 2, 2021 12:09
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Today I ripped out some trim to install an antenna to enable CarPlay. Gotta update the software but should be a much nicer solution so i can use Waze on my infotainment instead of staring down at my phone. Sometimes I miss my job where I wrenched on machines and engines, but a stripped bolt and a difficult electrical connector later, not so much. Only one leftover bolt this time, so not terrible. 
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Dec 2, 2021 21:58
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Suburban Dad posted:Will be on the lookout for this then. Motronic to the rescue once again and once again proving his av. His and CSBs are some of my finest work
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Dec 2, 2021 23:15
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shy boy from chess club posted:His and CSBs are some of my finest work CSBs is a true classic. I wasn't aware you were responsible for this. Nice job. I'm pretty sure I said back when I got this AV that I had no idea who that was and had never seen the show, which led me to watch the show and completely and totally understand.
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Dec 2, 2021 23:41
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Motronic posted:CSBs is a true classic. I wasn't aware you were responsible for this. Nice job. Oh no kidding, I thought we talked about it in irc when I was making it but that's way too long ago for me
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Dec 2, 2021 23:50
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shy boy from chess club posted:Oh no kidding, I thought we talked about it in irc when I was making it but that's way too long ago for me We probably did, but that was all a long drat time ago.
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Dec 2, 2021 23:52
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Motronic posted:We probably did, but that was all a long drat time ago. You ain't lyin, I just found out the tdiclub server just went down like 6 months ago too. Kinda sad I was just about to get internet at my house again and see if any channels I used to frequent were still around but irc is going away I think
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Dec 2, 2021 23:59
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Did all the things to get the 7.3 back to startable. Wanted to drive it around the yard but I drained the transfer case only to find the fill plug is totally siezed beyond removal. Already stripped the hex, trying to get a weld to hold enough to spin it out with a bolt in the stripped hex. e: i did start it up and move it forwards and backwards a couple feet just to feel/listen to the clutch. seems good. somehow this piece of poo poo smokes less than my OBS on startup. need to get it roadworthy so I can fix that thing e2: warmed up the case this afternoon with a mapp torch and ground a d shape into my weld blob to carefully spin the old plug out with an air chisel Yerok fucked around with this message at 00:53 on Dec 4, 2021 |
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Dec 3, 2021 05:50
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Backup camera, new head unit, LED interior lighting, hardwire kit for the dash cam.  Not an example of pretty wiring - I need to make sure it can't get chafed. But it's tied into the backup lights for power and ground, cable is fished through the trunk lid with the existing wiring. I'll tidy it up a bit more tomorrow (specifically I want to put that stuff around the lip in split loom and tape - and those random green zip ties are leftover from the strobes the car had at one point, removed the last of that wiring today).  Fuuuuuuuck that's a lot of wires. And I wound up yanking it back apart 3 goddamned times - for some reason JVC puts the parking brake sense and backup camera trigger outside of the harness (they're just hanging out of the back of the head unit), and I kept knocking them loose from the bullet connectors they use while trying to squeeze everything back in.  Metra isn't joking when they say "this stereo is NOT coming out without removing the bezel" for this kit. I'm pretty sure I'll wind up destroying the bezel if I try to remove the stereo. Far from my first choice of head unit, but the whole chip shortage thing meant my choices under $500 for Android Auto were Boss or JVC. LED interior lights are just cheap no-name ones, but seem significantly brighter. Hardwire kit is a hardwire kit, not worth showing. Wanted to wire in a proper flasher/bypass the LCM to handle the LED tail lights, but between work, neighbor drama, and family drama, I was too busy putting out everybody else's fires today. Was also helping a neighbor with his daughter's 200. Why the hell does FCA throw a CEL if the oil pressure sender is starting to fail? Just turn on the drat oil light. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:10 on Dec 4, 2021 |
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Dec 4, 2021 04:41
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Suburban Dad posted:
It's about the same, honestly. Roughly 12 mpg at 55 mph, and 10 at 65. That's the fastest I'd tow with the 6.2 generally so I don't have a comparison above that. The Ecoboost gets around 8 mpg at 70 mph so it's not worth it to me. The engine feels comfortable doing it though.
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Dec 4, 2021 05:00
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Got new tires, but so much more work to do  
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Dec 5, 2021 02:11
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Took my base duckbill spoiler off and put on the extended one. Lost a clip that holds in a taillight, so I have to go grab one tomorrow, and I'll put the side skirts and splitter on.
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Dec 5, 2021 03:58
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Finalized ZF6 wiring for reverse lights and NP271 manual shift idiot lights. Depinned the other body harness connector with the auto TRS starter interlock wires in it and repinned them connected so the truck now starts with the clutch switch like a factory manual truck. May have to jumper a couple more wires for cruise control but don't know yet. I'm pretty sure the clutch switch just has normally closed contacts for cruise. Unfucked a bunch of stereo installer bullshit wiring like the drivers side power lock switch wires being chopped in the rubber door accordion. Scotch locks should illegal. Replaced the screaming idler pulleys. Finalized the ZF6 tunnel going into the cab, installed it with rivet nuts so I can pull the seats out and have top access to the bellhousing bolts for when it all goes wrong. Gotta put down some knockoff dynamat in the morning and flop the carpet down.
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Dec 5, 2021 07:42
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Yerok posted:Finalized ZF6 wiring for reverse lights and NP271 manual shift idiot lights. Nothing pisses me off more than buying something aftermarket for my car and it coming with scotch locks. I bought a harness to install a hud in my car (mine didn't have the option), and it came with them and I was just so disappointed. They do nothing but cause issues.
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Dec 5, 2021 16:05
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Crown Vics use an integrated flasher built into the GEM/LCM (generic electrical module/lighting control module, terms are used interchangeably for the same part on Fords). Going LED for signals pisses them off. A well known bypass is to snip the 2 signal wires off and wire in an LED-compatible flasher. The downsides to this is you don't get a fast flash if a bulb fails, you no longer get the grandpa alarm (leaving your signal on for a mile triggers a dinging), and depending on the flasher, you lose the clicking sound. I was going to do this anyway, since the PO of my car included the most common LED taillights. They worked mostly fine, but for some reason, resistors wired between signal and ground make them crap out entirely on the rear, same if I leave an incandescent bulb hidden somewhere, though the incandescent bulb will continue to work. Took one look at the rat's mansion of wiring under the dash (so much abandoned wiring from the constable's 2nd cousin's nephew), sighed, and put the stock taillights back on with brand new bulbs. I'm pretty sure I have a sketchy ground somewhere causing the issues if I use the resistors; 99% of people have no issue with them. The wiring on this car is a goddamned mess, every time I pull something apart I rip out several pounds of abandoned (and often live) wiring. The worst of it is related to the rear flasher/strobe unit (which is still wired into the car, mostly with scotchlocks and twist/tape) At least I'm slowly getting the new stereo figured out. JVC really needs to work on their touchscreen UI, it's loving terrible (KW-M56BT for reference). I'm almost wishing I'd gone with the Boss head unit in the same price range, from the Crutchfield pictures the UI looks a bit better (plus physical knob) - but the Boss was a single DIN with a larger screen that would somewhat block my vents, and the single DIN mounting kits like to pop out easily (mine would slide out if I just hammered the gas too hard). The double DIN mounting kits require a little bit of trimming, but once the stereo is in, it's not going anywhere without taking the bezel off. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 13:11 on Dec 6, 2021 |
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Dec 6, 2021 13:07
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EvilBeard posted:Took my base duckbill spoiler off and put on the extended one. Lost a clip that holds in a taillight, so I have to go grab one tomorrow, and I'll put the side skirts and splitter on.
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Dec 6, 2021 16:20
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Yerok posted:Scotch locks should illegal. They're at least act of aggression, possibly a war crime. Quoting myself from the mechanical failures thread: Darchangel posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lUVGwz4CYGo I got a repair bearing (moves the bearing contact surface inboard to an undamaged area of the axle), diff cover gasket, lube, additive, and a puller for the bearing,  then realized that the puller requires a slide hammer, and I don't have one that will fit the puller. I realized this after HF closed for the evening (Sunday, so after 6 PM.) I could have borrowed one from O'Reilly's, but I've needed one for some time, and I have a spare car at the moment. So I blasted and painted the rusty-under-all-the-grease diff cover instead.  
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Dec 6, 2021 19:56
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PBCrunch posted:When I first saw the thumbnail I thought your Corvette's taillights were crying goth mascara tears because of the dangling wires. It's so goth it shits bats.
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Dec 6, 2021 21:17
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EvilBeard posted:It's so goth it shits bats. I haven't heard that in like 20 years, goddamn
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Dec 6, 2021 21:21
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Holy loving poo poo man. I dunno I'd replace that shaft with a junkyard one at least, that's hammered and I'm sure it'll put stress risers in the shaft exactly in the worst spot, the area that's now under extra stress from the wheel being cantilevered further out from the bearing than it normally is. Also make sure you swab that axle tube out carefully, it's probably got shrapnel stuck inside it everywhere. Might want to check if there's any trash in the bottom of the diff as well and ideally put a super magnet on the inside of the cover somewhere it won't get stuck to the carrier or ring gear, it'll pull the remaining particles out of the oil better than the crummy little ceramic magnets that even the best diff drain plugs have.
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Dec 6, 2021 21:26
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Ordered a stainless steel shifter bezel to hide the scratch magnet piano black trim on my Mazda3. It fit perfectly, but no idea how long it will last since it’s just held i place with adhesive 
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Dec 6, 2021 23:55
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kastein posted:Holy loving poo poo man. I dunno I'd replace that shaft with a junkyard one at least, that's hammered and I'm sure it'll put stress risers in the shaft exactly in the worst spot, the area that's now under extra stress from the wheel being cantilevered further out from the bearing than it normally is. You convinced me. I ordered an axle from Rock Auto and will drive the crapcan another day or two. I don't really like the Carolla, but I'm glad I have it at the moment. It's up for registration again end of December, though. edit: good idea on the magnet. I have a pile of hard drive magnets.
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Dec 7, 2021 01:09
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This loving 7.3, every time I drive it it runs better. Except for when I decide to give it a real brake test and the fronts stick on a half mile from home. Also it was so nasty when I got it and I cleaned what I could but hitting operating temp for the first time in god knows how long is turning all the sludge and paste back into liquid.
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Dec 7, 2021 03:00
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gently caress serpentine belts on a FWD, so drat cramped with my sausage hands (doesn't help that the timing cover is leaking, so it was messy). Old belt barely looked used, and really wasn't stretched much, but it's been on there for at least 10 years. Pretty much all of the maintenance on it is based on time aside from brakes and oil; it's a 2005 with a hair under 100k miles, oil changes happen once a year using Mobil 1 EP. Probably would have helped if I'd printed the belt routing diagram first.  But I think the only things the Matrix needs now is fresh gearbox oil and a brake fluid flush. Crown Vic needs a transmission fluid change, could also use a brake fluid flush and fresh coolant.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:35 on Dec 7, 2021 |
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Dec 7, 2021 08:33
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Scotchloks are fine  I've only ever used them in a house on POTS wiring
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Dec 7, 2021 17:07
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Got the parts in and replaced the destroyed right rear wheel bearing and damaged axle. No problems there. Replaced the leaking pinion seal, now the rear gears whine. Not much, just a little, but gently caress.
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Dec 9, 2021 18:02
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Not today, but recently... Got my child transportation machine into the holiday spirit.  I painted the calipers on the Lexus. I used POR-15 caliper paint, but it did not stick. I ended up taking them off for sandblasting and VHT caliper paint. That seems to work better. The calipers are aluminum, so the rust preventative qualities of POR-15 don't matter anyway. The (ferrous and rusty) rear calipers took to the POR paint well.  I got some new (to me) wheels for my olde Lexus. They are factory wheels from a Nissan 350Z. The tires aren't exactly the right size, but there is enough meat left on them that I'm not going to throw them away right now. The old girl is all dirty, but has decent rubber for the first time in an embarrassingly long time. I wasn't happy with the old wheels (17" Konigs) so I was waiting for a good deal on some decent wheels. These also aren't my absolute favorite, but a lick of paint will make a big difference come spring. Time for a (already paid for Firestone lifetime) wheel alignment. The little antenna is also new. The old one worked most of the time, but every once in a while it wouldn't come down all the way. I always listen to Bluetooth audio, so the fixed stubby antenna is good enough. Edit: the side mirrors are missing because the retainers for the springs that hold the mirrors at their detent positions failed. I am fixing them.  The rears were large and pushed out enough that I had to raise the suspension a couple of turns. The little lock screw didn't strip, but it made a pretzel out of my allen wrench. I ended up having to dremel all the lock screws out. I'm trying to figure out what the size and thread pitch on the coilover sleeves and get some big rear end nuts to use to lock the spring perches in place. There is substantial preload on all of the springs, so I don't think it will really matter anyway.   I painted the winter wheels for my 1993 Toyota Pickup a while ago. I decided to add a touch of whimsy to the center caps. 
PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 23:55 on Dec 10, 2021 |
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Dec 9, 2021 19:01
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are those DIY coilovers? the black gold kinda look like a-1 racing sleeves https://www.a1racing.com/shocks-struts-coil-overs-and-components.aspx
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Dec 9, 2021 19:04
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no lube so what posted:are those DIY coilovers? the black gold kinda look like a-1 racing sleeves They are in fact DIY coilovers. They are Speedway Motors coilover sleeves with Bilstein shocks and Hyperco springs. Maybe the Speedway sleeves are the same as the A-1 sleeves, they definitely look alike. I looked around on the A1 Racing site, found some coilover sleeves with some very similar specifications, and ordered one "adjusting nut" that goes with those sleeves for $15. Hopefully it threads on and I'm a happy camper. The bad new is I have to pull one strut assembly out of the car and take it apart to find out if its a match. Bummer.
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Dec 9, 2021 21:46
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Got the oil cooler off the shitbox 7.3 to reseal. Both my OBS and super duty sprung a leak in the front on the first cold day of the year. I guess I should have figured but the inlet end of the coolant side looks pretty crusty. Fins in the oil side look perfect. It wasn't mixing coolant and oil yet so I guess I could clean it up and run it but I probably shouldn't cause it will eventually. I already drained the block and it was relatively clean coolant that came out so I guess it can sit with a couple gallons of cleanish antifreeze in for a few days. I really just wanted to get it back together today so I can drive the loving thing.
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Dec 11, 2021 00:11
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Canadian Bacon (07 Crown Vic) got some love/hate. I gave up trying to find a decent header panel. Ordered an aftermarket one from eBay. I've ordered parts from eBay plenty in the past - I'm used to poor fitment. But hoooooooly poo poo this was BAD. Holes in the wrong place. Plastic resin WAY too thick in one spot for the passenger headlight to mount properly (they secure with slide-on clips - going to have to sand it down on one side). Alignment pins where bolts are supposed to go (and bolt holes where the alignment pins should be). This thing seriously looks like it was hand made, roughly in the shape of a header panel, by a drunk person - lots of wavyness, you can see where it was roughly cut, etc. It's on the car and I can actually (mostly) attach the lights to it, so gently caress it, it stays - not even gonna bother painting it, since about 1/5 of the car is a mix of bare metal and primer. Not the first time it's been replaced either; I suspected as much since the old one didn't have any clear coat left on it (while the rest of the car has clear coat, but the paint + primer adhesion doesn't exist); old one was an OEM (it even had all the bolts!), but the alignment pins were broken off. While I was at it, I managed to break a corner marker bulb. Oh well, I have some 194 LEDs. Wait, those are loving BRIGHT. gently caress. Oh well, they'll do until I can get either amber LEDs or amber 194s.  Kinda starting to look like every other P71 on the road, between the peeling paint and mismatched header panel, but at least my headlights can be aimed now. Finally replaced the turn signal switch, turn signals turn off on their own now. Youtube videos make it out to be far worse than it really is; you only need to remove the plastic trim around the column, you don't have to drop the lower dash or bracing, or remove the ignition tumbler.  Spent the extra coin on an OEM Motorcraft switch (starting to wonder if that was wise...)
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Dec 11, 2021 07:15
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This wasn't something I did, but it happened with my car. I dropped off my 1999 Cherokee with 300k miles off at my friend's shop some time ago because the passenger side floor was so rusty the front mounts for the passenger seat basically disappeared. It has been over there for a while as he poked at it when not otherwise busy. During this time the scope of the rust repair expanded a little bit. He patched in metal for the rusty door bottoms and rocker panels. The other day someone went to move it and one of the rusty brake lines popped. He couldn't stop and the Jeep had a low-speed collision in the parking lot with a much larger vehicle. The other vehicle was fine, but the Jeep took some damage. The plan for the rust repairs was to paint the bottom of the Jeep with bedliner or some other kind of chip guard paint. The collision damaged the door trim that was needed to break the transition from the black bottom to the blue (gunmetal?) factory paint. I feel terrible that it happened but I am thankful it happened in that environment at 2 mph instead of on the interstate or something. Doubly thankful that it didn't happen with my munchkin in the back seat. Yesterday I went to the junkyard to get some Jeep door trims. I wasn't hopeful, but I found a complete glossy painted set from a black 97-01 XJ. I also grabbed a whole assortment of constant tension hose clamps in a variety of sizes and lots of Honda and Acura center caps (between my wife and I we own three different Hondas with five sets of wheels). I needed one "outie" center cap for a Honda steel wheel. This was a tough ask because many junkyard cars have no wheels. Among Hondas with wheels many have alloys. Among Hondas with steel wheels, most have wheel covers and therefor have no center caps. But I did manage to find ONE, and it felt nice. I also found a pretty nice phone-holder arm thing. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 17:32 on Dec 13, 2021 |
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Dec 13, 2021 17:29
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Yerok posted:Got the oil cooler off the shitbox 7.3 to reseal. Both my OBS and super duty sprung a leak in the front on the first cold day of the year. I have to say, it's great to see someone else "enjoying" their 7.3 ownership experience as much as I am. Since adding some Amsoil diesel treatment, I've had no issues starting the truck.... knock on wood. Once I'm over this cold, I've got ball joints and a diff cover to install. Oh and put together the half torn apart interior where I started to re-cover the seats.
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Dec 13, 2021 21:04
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I cut all the spot welds that held the crushed radiator support on our Sienna, removed everything, and bolted in the replacement, and started rosette welding it back into place everywhere that there had been a spot weld. The thing is starting to have a face again, and everything lined up square and perfect, so the forward frame horns and inner fenders hadn't gotten tweaked. Unfortunately, the radiator, condenser, fan module, and every single piece of plastic forward of the engine were all bent, leaking, or broken. It should be covered by insurance, but my insurance company is so understaffed that they can't manage the claim, and even if they could, all the local body shops are backlogged by months. They "estimated" a payout of $1500, and using aftermarket replacements, I think the parts alone will be $1300, so I get to argue with them about whether it's possible to replace everything forward of the frame rails with only four hours of labor. I'll probably have two or three weekends of time into by the time I'm finished. The biggest lesson has been that cutting spot welds is awful, and if you are going to use those Harbor Freight spot weld cutters, buy a half dozen of them, and center punch the spot welds as hard as you can before starting.
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Dec 13, 2021 21:33
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the spyder posted:I have to say, it's great to see someone else "enjoying" their 7.3 ownership experience as much as I am. I can't really complain about my 7.3 luck, my OBS has been the most loyal truck ever and if it didn't have a 2wd twin I-beam front end it'd be borderline perfect for a work beater. The only thing that's causing me true anxiety at the moment is not being able to start it until I can slap the cooler on and flush/fill with ELC which means I can't determine whether the slight oil trickle through the valley hole is residual or an extremely slow current leak. On a 4R100 truck I would say who cares and put it on the list but with a ZF6 it leaks right down the passenger side on the inside of the bellhousing and gets flung everywhere right around my brand new clutch. I stuck a scope in there and the pressure plate, flywheel, and clutch disk are bone dry plus it looks like the couple drops of fluid is are just residual grime from the HPOP reservoir leak based on consistency. I've seen some people make a drain tube from the back of the valley hole out of 1/2 copper while the transmission is off but I really don't know about the longevity of soft copper tubing bedded only with a little silicone at each end on a crusty, rattly 7.3 so I neglected to do that. I have some tygon of approximately the right size sitting around so at least for being able to run the engine long enough to flush the coolant and diagnose I guess I'm gonna snake a piece down and out the matching hole on the back of the block in front of the ZF6's sheet metal spacer plate and 3d print a little PETG adapter for it at 100% infill to retain it from the front of the valley hole. I just wanna put it in 4 low and drag some poo poo around the muddy yard for fucks sake
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Dec 13, 2021 21:46
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I've seen the copper line trick - and like you said for a 4R100 truck, it's not a problem. But boy do I hear you on not wanting to wreck a new clutch. On one of my cars, the PO had the flywheel ground/new clutch installed, but they left the old RMS. 5k miles later and the new clutch is trash and there's a pool of oil when you park. All because of a $10 seal. Even with the frustrations, they are still great trucks. I'm pretty sure every truck of that era is a time-sink, the difference being some are larger money pits than others. I figure I have another $3k to dump at this before I'm happy with it and at that point, I'll be in it the same as normal market value. So break even? (Never will happen...lol). For reference, I'm helping a buddy get his dad's 93 W250 back on the road. He's taken it to a few shops and is already $10k into a truck that now has wheels/tires that won't clear the front fenders, a clogged cooling system, and a bad transmission. Ugh.
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Dec 13, 2021 23:05
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At least with a full size truck project you're forced to use it to do truck stuff when (if) it's done. I feel like I've put so much time and energy into motorcycles and cars that have spent 90% of the time parked because I was too busy with work/other projects/side jobs to enjoy using them.
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Dec 14, 2021 00:15
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Yerok posted:3d print a little PETG adapter for it at 100% infill to retain it from the front of the valley hole. PETG melts at pretty low temps.
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Dec 14, 2021 00:45
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