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Is AI Slack still a thing and if so may I have an invitation? Leeloo says hi!
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Dec 13, 2021 12:10
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Raluek posted:stupid question: is this a common opinion? i usually hold up the VQ35/37 as being an excellent example of how terrible V6s tend to sound, since i think they sound even worse than most. nobody has corrected me yet, but maybe they're just too polite to point out that it's a bad and wrong opinion. I always thought they sounded good (stock at least) but do recognize many feel the opposite.
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Dec 13, 2021 15:06
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Raluek posted:stupid question: is this a common opinion? i usually hold up the VQ35/37 as being an excellent example of how terrible V6s tend to sound, since i think they sound even worse than most. nobody has corrected me yet, but maybe they're just too polite to point out that it's a bad and wrong opinion. I'm on your side. I've always thought that the VQ sounds like absolute rear end.
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Dec 13, 2021 19:05
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I am nearing the end of my 2009 Toyota Matrix saga. Turns out the head gasket is hosed, so compression in cyls 3-4 is way low. I think this repair is beyond my skills (and my wife might put her foot down at my automotive self-education for this one since it's her car), and the shop's estimate is $2900-3500 depending on condition of cyl 3-4 valves and other stuff. At ~157,000 miles, the cost of this repair is approaching the value of the car, based on a quick and dirty KBB figure. I've just spent a lot of time and a little money doing new struts, brakes, coils, and plugs, for which I'm pretty irritated now. The shop inspection says that other than this one massive problem plus the need for an ATF flush, everything is in great shape. When the car warms up, the misfire goes away and it runs fine, but a problem like this seems to be a major failure waiting to happen at a bad time. So what do I do now? 1.) Try to get a dealership to buy it as is? If I disclosed the head gasket problem, I assume they'd just say "lol no thanks." 2.) Fix it and try to sell it? Seems like if I pay for the repair, the sale price of the car would just put me at zero. 3.) I've got USAA insurance, and they do a guaranteed price thing, should I sell it to them? I got about $2100 for my 98 Ford Ranger in decent condition about 4 years ago. 4.) Get it fixed and just keep driving it? I wanted to get it to about 200,000 until my family gets its finances back together and then get a new car. Seems like after this gets fixed we'd be pretty good for quite a while. When it's not being repaired, it's a great car and cheap to own and drive. I'll probably try to get quotes for selling it in a couple different ways just so I have a little better idea of its potential value.
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Dec 14, 2021 18:20
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Call other shops and get quotes for head gasket replacement on your car. That estimate sounds far too high. I'd expect to pay $1500 or so.
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Dec 14, 2021 18:29
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Generally I'm in favor of making that repair. If the car is in otherwise good condition, and you can reasonably expect to get at least 18 more months out of it after the repair, I say go for it. You would probably get another 3 to 4 years out of the car if you fix it. Replacing the car is going to be expensive in this messed up used car market right now. What's the price breakdown from the shop? I'm guessing if they're doing the headgasket they're going to be replacing a bunch of other stuff while they are in there. I'm not familiar with that engine, but I would guess all the seals, water pump, timing set, etc would be swapped out with new parts as well. Do you plan on replacing the car if you get rid of it? If so, with what? I rather repair an otherwise known good car I have a history with, rather than buying something used and rolling the dice on it.
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Dec 14, 2021 18:33
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We want to get a cuv, and like the RAV4, CRV, and CX5. But that’s in down the road for when we’re financially sound again (wife is in school, single income at the moment). The plan was for the next car to be long term, so low mileage and recently made, hybrid if possible. The price breakdown includes oil, atf, timing adjustment, and possible cleaning, polishing, and valve work at the high end. Labor is $2400, I think, I don’t have the quote in front of me. I haven’t gotten competing estimates for this repair specifically, but I’ve cross-shopped other big auto repairs in my town over the years and labor cost is almost always within a couple hundred bucks regardless of the job. e: I got basically the same estimate from another well-regraded shop in town. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Dec 14, 2021 |
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Dec 14, 2021 19:06
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When buying a new car, is there generally much of any negotiating space on the "internet price"?
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Dec 14, 2021 19:55
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skipdogg posted:Generally I'm in favor of making that repair. If the car is in otherwise good condition, and you can reasonably expect to get at least 18 more months out of it after the repair, I say go for it. You would probably get another 3 to 4 years out of the car if you fix it. Worst case labor is $2441, worst case parts list comes to $1049. Both those values include machining the head at $450, which is the biggest single line item. Other stuff is as follows: -gasket - $337 -head bolts - $108 -oil change - $50ish -coolant - $15 -timing chain tension - $47 -thermostat - $47 They quoted me $2900 if there's no head machining or valve replacement, so labor doesn't seem to vary much.
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Dec 14, 2021 19:58
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:When buying a new car, is there generally much of any negotiating space on the "internet price"? Right now, a.k.a. the worst time in recent history to purchase a car, unless they are completely gouging you or it's a brand nobody wants there's going to be little room for negotiation considering how low inventories are. If you don't take the deal the next person surely will.
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Dec 14, 2021 20:12
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Worst case labor is $2441, worst case parts list comes to $1049. Both those values include machining the head at $450, which is the biggest single line item. Other stuff is as follows: Honestly make some calls to wreckers and see how much a replacement engine would be, it's a lot easier and will be far less labour. You need the wrecker to have a gaurantee that the engine works and ideally they could tell you when the timing belt etc was done.
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Dec 14, 2021 20:20
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Motronic posted:Right now, a.k.a. the worst time in recent history to purchase a car, unless they are completely gouging you or it's a brand nobody wants there's going to be little room for negotiation considering how low inventories are. If you don't take the deal the next person surely will. Thanks for the perspective, that's helpful. They're offering $3k above MSRP for a Nissan Leaf. And yeah, I'd rather not be buying a car right now. But my current car is 18 years old, and is starting to get pretty unpleasant to drive. Carvana offered me $400 for it 
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Dec 14, 2021 20:24
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Thanks for the perspective, that's helpful. They're offering $3k above MSRP for a Nissan Leaf. And yeah, I'd rather not be buying a car right now. But my current car is 18 years old, and is starting to get pretty unpleasant to drive. Carvana offered me $400 for it $3k over MRSP out the door? Or what other surcharges will they be adding? Please tell me your $7500 federal tax rebate isn't part of that price. E: also, please remember that Nissan is not a car company. They are a high risk credit retail lending institution that happens to sell cars.
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Dec 14, 2021 20:49
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3k over plus taxes and DMV fees, so the actual out of pocket would probably be in the 40k range. And I'm planning to pay straight up, no financing. I'll make sure the rebate is not part of that number.
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Dec 14, 2021 21:07
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:And I'm planning to pay straight up, no financing. You should get a price for financing it. That's where they make their money. Then pay it off a month later.
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Dec 14, 2021 21:41
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Noted, thank you!
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Dec 14, 2021 21:43
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:3k over plus taxes and DMV fees, so the actual out of pocket would probably be in the 40k range. And I'm planning to pay straight up, no financing. that sounds awful. Do not pay that much for a LEAF, it’s a decade-old car with a bunch of problems—including some that can bork the battery if you aren’t careful. Please go to the EV thread, they will set you straight there on what to buy (probably a Model 3 or a plug in hybrid of some sort if you want something right now ~$40k. But both will be much, much better ownership experiences than a LEAF. Do not get a LEAF, its resale value will plummet and you will want to resell it in five years when literally every other EV on the road outclasses it bigly. trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Dec 14, 2021 |
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Dec 14, 2021 21:44
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Get a Mach-E GT
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Dec 14, 2021 21:44
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please do not pay more than $20k for a LEAF in 2021/2022. Please do not buy a LEAF brand new. You will take a big bath on a car with a small range. The only less sensible EV buy I can think of is the ten ppl who paid $60k for a brand new i3 in 2019. trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 21:52 on Dec 14, 2021 |
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Dec 14, 2021 21:50
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With respect, I have to work within what is available and what I'm willing to pay. I don't need lots of range, I am categorically not getting a Tesla of any kind, and used EVs cannot be had for love or money. I have done a reasonable amount of research, and while I won't pretend that this is the perfect vehicle, it's the best I've found. "Just buy a different car that costs 15k+ more" is not a good answer
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Dec 14, 2021 22:37
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Buy a Bolt instead.
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Dec 14, 2021 22:51
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:With respect, I have to work within what is available and what I'm willing to pay. I don't need lots of range, I am categorically not getting a Tesla of any kind, and used EVs cannot be had for love or money. I have done a reasonable amount of research, and while I won't pretend that this is the perfect vehicle, it's the best I've found. go to the EV thread and tell them that you plan to buy a LEAF for $40 thousand cash. I’ve said my piece. If you want to take a $20k bath on a car that will experience battery degradation if you leave it plugged in for too long then that’s your prerogative. If the EV you want isn’t available yet and you need a car right now, there isn’t any shame in driving something hybrid-powered or ICE-powered for 2-3 years and then flipping it/trading it in on your next 20 year car. You can get a clean Prius or Civic from 2010-2015 for $10k, you’ll get excellent fuel economy and reliability, and in two years you can sell it for $7k when Hyundai Group, VAG, etc really start to ship their EVs. I would much rather be selling/trading in a Civic in 2023-beyond than a LEAF.
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Dec 14, 2021 22:56
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IOwnCalculus posted:Buy a Bolt instead. This, or the 10-15k used market for a few years. Do not buy a Leaf.
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Dec 14, 2021 23:10
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Have you seen if the Kia Soul EV (used) is available in your area? I'm still seeing an OK inventory on Autotempest and not terrible prices. They're better than a Leaf (marginally) and most people don't consider them when thinking of EVs. They were only sold in certain states and I would not advise one if it has to sit out the heat, but that problem is even worse with a Leaf. 2015-2017 have a 93 mile rated range highway and 2018-2019 111 miles. Quite a bit more city
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Dec 14, 2021 23:19
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Ok Comboomer posted:go to the EV thread and tell them that you plan to buy a LEAF for $40 thousand cash. I’ve said my piece. If you want to take a $20k bath on a car that will experience battery degradation if you leave it plugged in for too long then that’s your prerogative. Also remember the rebates. The rebated price is a Leaf is about 13k lower...but only if you buy new. Edit: Kia and Hyundai are hard to get new in my area. I'm extremely leery of the used market because I can't help worrying that most of the used cars, at this point, are lemons. Thr market is in a very weird period right now. TooMuchAbstraction fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Dec 14, 2021 |
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Dec 14, 2021 23:21
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Oh believe me, I spent a lot of time watching the EV thread. The complaints I saw about the Leaf's battery aren't to be discounted, but the alternates on offer are not compelling for a variety of reasons. And frankly, I had trouble disentangling the tech-happy accelerationists (who didn't like the Leaf because it's a boring car) from the people with legitimate complaints. Get a used i3 for <$20 grand  , otherwise I seriously encourage you to just get a used hybrid or ICE car and wait it out for another 2-3 years. I don’t think you need to worry about being stuck with a lemon because of what the market is doing right now. A lot of people are taking advantage of crazy trade in offers, switching to EV, selling their car to Carvana, etc so there is a supply of used cars trickling in, it’s not just like exclusively the dregs or anything like that.
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Dec 14, 2021 23:41
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The degradation of a battery on a Leaf is a real concern but it also depends on your climate and / or can keep it in a modestly temperature stable garage. Edit: also it does poorly on the small overlap crash test, but not everybody cares about that. Edit 2: it's also a problem on the Soul but it at least will use a dedicated fan for cooling and can use the cabin air to cool the battery. Also it has a 10 year / 100,000 mile warranty on the battery.
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Dec 14, 2021 23:46
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Ok Comboomer posted:go to the EV thread and tell them that you plan to buy a LEAF for $40 thousand cash. I’ve said my piece. If you want to take a $20k bath on a car that will experience battery degradation if you leave it plugged in for too long then that’s your prerogative. Or if it just exists in a place that's too hot, plugged in or not! I literally would have already owned a Leaf by now if their battery degradation was not so awful - but between that and the fact that I couldn't charge at the office, I couldn't guarantee that a Leaf would have enough range for my commute by the end of a three year lease. They're a perfectly competent car otherwise, as is the Bolt, and as are most other non-Tesla cars occupying the low end of the EV market. Bolts have the whole "oops might possibly ignite" problem but literally every Bolt is getting a new battery to account for that. There also haven't been any major reports of degradation, and they have far more range to begin with anyway. This feels like you're leaning way too hard on the value of the rebate, and not enough on the actual value of the car whether or not the feds and state are paying for part of it. Paying $27k for a Leaf is not getting a great deal on a "$40k car", it's getting a list-price deal on a car that has managed to sell so poorly over 11 years that Nissans still qualify for the federal tax rebate that both GM and Tesla long since sold out of.
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Dec 14, 2021 23:50
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Okay, I have my car back from its oil change followup, they actually did a really good job cleaning the mess and the replaced parts look great. But.  Apparently somewhere along the line, something caused my tire pressure monitor to stop reporting any of the tires? Lol, come on. Can I fix this by some process at home? I really don’t feel like going back again.  This is on the ‘21 Ascent. Each tire just shows the --- as if it hasn’t read any data yet, but it’s still doing that after driving all the way home.
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Dec 15, 2021 01:51
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Bad Munki posted:Okay, I have my car back from its oil change followup, they actually did a really good job cleaning the mess and the replaced parts look great. So they probably disconnected the battery when they were doing all that. The TPMS disconnect is maybe related? I dunno! I'd be calling them and asking about it. e: The second you start doing any of this yourself is when they'll start playing the card about how it must be your fault for xyz issue. I'd try to get them to do absolutely everything or at least get their instructions.
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Dec 15, 2021 02:18
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Yeah, I get that, I was just hoping there was a simple reset I could trigger instead of 30 minutes of driving each way just to have them hit the reset for me. Sigh.
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Dec 15, 2021 02:45
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Bad Munki posted:Yeah, I get that, I was just hoping there was a simple reset I could trigger instead of 30 minutes of driving each way just to have them hit the reset for me. Sigh. From google: "With the vehicle off, turn the key to the “on” position, but don’t start the car. Hold the TPMS reset button until the tire pressure light blinks three times, then release it. Start the car and wait 20 minutes for the sensor to refresh. The TPMS reset button is usually located beneath the steering wheel. If you are unable to find it, refer to your vehicle’s owner’s manual." Maybe see if you have one of those buttons?
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Dec 15, 2021 02:54
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Yeah, saw that on Google as well but it’s not that it’s telling me I have a flat, it’s just reporting nothing…and no such button seems to exist.  Ah well, I’ll just call them in the morning and ask. Grumble grumble.
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Dec 15, 2021 03:06
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If experience has taught me anything, it’s going to start working again on the drive to the dealership and then quit again on the drive home.
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Dec 15, 2021 03:09
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Well…that’d save me the wait while they reset it for me 🤣
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Dec 15, 2021 03:11
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2009 Toyota Camry Hybrid - blows cold air at stoplights, warm when moving with ICE on. I haven't actually looked at it yet but I'm not familiar enough with the hybrid system to know if there's anything unique like a resistive heater element I should look for in my troubleshooting.
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Dec 15, 2021 07:04
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Bad Munki posted:Yeah, saw that on Google as well but it’s not that it’s telling me I have a flat, it’s just reporting nothing…and no such button seems to exist. Subarus don't seem to have that setting, but any tire shop can fix it
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Dec 15, 2021 07:43
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Well, happily enough, it kicked back in this morning while dropping the kids off at school. I’m just surprised it took, like, 20 miles of driving to make it happen, but I guess now future me knows it takes longer after a (probable) battery disconnect. All good!
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Dec 15, 2021 15:34
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Are there any brands of combination strut/spring that aren't garbage? Not for performance use, just for a Camry so it's easier for DIY and doesn't involve me telling someone else to use a spring compressor. The car is also at like 170k miles and 13 years so there's probably a bit of sagging in the springs so it wouldn't hurt to replace them.
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Dec 15, 2021 19:08
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Are there any brands of combination strut/spring that aren't garbage? Not for performance use, just for a Camry so it's easier for DIY and doesn't involve me telling someone else to use a spring compressor. The car is also at like 170k miles and 13 years so there's probably a bit of sagging in the springs so it wouldn't hurt to replace them. What year is the Camry? I wanna check Rockauto and see what they offer. Edit I punched in 2009 and they at least have Monroe and KYB, established brands. I think STR has done combos before, maybe he can chime in. Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Dec 15, 2021 |
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Dec 15, 2021 19:59
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