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hobbesmaster posted:What percentage of the CVTs will make it through the 5y/60k mi warranty? The new engine is right at the absolute max limits of the cvt and the average WRX is not exactly going to be driven like an ascent. My Levorg made it to 5 years soooooooo far......... (Altho I did extend the warranty so I have another year decide if I want to risk it beyond that)
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Dec 8, 2021 04:22
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net work error posted:If I have no engine mods are OTS tunes considered safe? Yes! I am pleased as punch with Cobb's stage 1 OTS map on my stock WRX. I've opted for the 91 octane map, since if I'm being honest with myself, I'm not really trying to wring out more power right now -- I'd much rather run a conservative tune that feels great to drive, and that's exactly what it provided. A quite linear powerband and much better throttle response. The 93 octane map (on 93 octane fuel, ofc) was too aggressively lean for my tastes. Just be sure to keep an eye on some things during the first week or two (AFR, DAM, knock mostly) to play it safe. A safe tune will keep you close to stoich (14.7) in ordinary driving, and "healthily rich" in the low 11.x range when in boost/closed loop/wide open throttle. DAM should be at 1.0 a vast majority of the time; any drops in the DAM value means timing is being pulled. Knock should obviously be as close to 0 as possible. The air conditioner compressor will cause false knock readings of 1.41 or 2.42 and can be ignored, but anything greater than say 4 or 5 is cause for concern. I don't mean to make it sound more critical than it is, though, since we're talking a lightly modified or unmodified car. As long as you're using the stock intake and j-pipe, you will very likely have safe and pleasant results with an OTS tune. enojy fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Dec 8, 2021 |
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Dec 8, 2021 05:06
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The Subaru CVT is fine. The WRX isn't something that's meant to be rallied or raced. It's just a global platform car with a Turbo
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Dec 8, 2021 15:26
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I decided to take a risk and picked up an accessport for my STI and it really does make a difference in how the throttle responds. My shifts into first and second are smoother and more consistent now. Downshifting too. In my opinion it’s worth it so far. I’m using the 93 tune because I have it available at every gas station here. I’ve data-logged a few daily trips, including somewhat spirited pulls when the interstate is empty. DAM is permanently at 1, knock dips to -1.4 about once per drive while driving normally in traffic. AFR only goes lean when slowing with a closed throttle. Im debating between calling it good or just putting it back into 91 in case I get some bad gas. Is there a noticeable performance difference or am I just introducing some risk for a nonexistent gain?
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Dec 8, 2021 15:53
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Rolo posted:I decided to take a risk and picked up an accessport for my STI and it really does make a difference in how the throttle responds. My shifts into first and second are smoother and more consistent now. Downshifting too. In my opinion it’s worth it so far. If you get bad gas, you will start seeing more knock correction. DAM dropping, negative fine knock learn values, and more frequent feedback knock. It’s nothing to worry about and once you burn it off and get a fresh tank it should learn its way back up to 1.000 DAM and FKL will climb back up after a while. The ECU is doing its job and correcting for it. Even if you are road tripping and can only get 91 octane fuel, you can get away with staying out of boost for a while until you can burn it off and get to a 93 station. If you are consistently getting lots of meaningful knock correction, or can only get 91 octane fuel, it’s worth it to change back to the 91 map. One thing I’ve noticed is I start to get more knock correction during the colder months…my car seems to never have FKL and DAM at 1.000 during the summer or even track days, but around November-December I start to see it get pissy. My DAM went to .750 then climbed to .875 yesterday, right after filling up and getting back on the highway. I think winter gas seems to be the cause because the formulation gets a little different for the colder weather to make some cars start easier and the requirements for anti-vapor are different. Also, looking at your AFR readings through the Accessport is of limited use. It’s the reading from the front O2 sensor. This is used for fueling corrections during idle and low load cruise. When you get into boost, the extra pressure in the exhaust manifold skews the readings to the point where they are totally inaccurate/useless, so the ECU goes open loop and adds fuel based solely on airflow, and does not correct based on AFR. Additionally, this O2 sensor can not read rich enough to make meaningful measurements when under significant load. In other words, when you are in boost, it will always read 11.1, even if you are in actuality leaner than that. So if you see it say 12.1 when you at WOT, that’s a problem. When you see it say 11.1 at WOT, it doesn’t mean there isn’t a problem. But if the car is running lovely and it says 11.5 or 17.3 at idle, that means there is a fueling/vacuum leak problem or something.
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Dec 8, 2021 17:15
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Ok cool. I knew not to rely too hard on the AP AFR but I never knew why. Looking back at the logs it looks like it dips to exactly 11.03 on WOT but I won’t rely on it too much further. Is there a go-to temp sensor to monitor for excessively lean mixtures?
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Dec 8, 2021 17:23
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daslog posted:The Subaru CVT is fine. The WRX isn't something that's meant to be rallied or raced. It's just a global platform car with a Turbo And who is the typical purchaser of a WRX in the US?
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Dec 8, 2021 17:23
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An over 30 guy who uses it to commute?
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Dec 8, 2021 18:54
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jamal posted:An over 30 guy who uses it to commute? It seems like hobbesmaster is confusing this with an WRX STi?
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Dec 8, 2021 18:57
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I dunno, people in cities like autos for their GT type cars. Maybe Subaru's "new" "Subaru Performance Transmission" doesn't explode? I'd imagine they are separating the STI out from the WRX even more? GT vs Rally/Race? I think heads would roll if the next STI isn't offered with a 6 speed. Majere fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Dec 8, 2021 |
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Dec 8, 2021 19:51
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Younger enthusiast buyers in the US on a reasonable budget overwhelmingly prefer manuals. Cars that have a very high take rate with those buyers like the WRX and BRZ sell higher numbers of manuals. Other cars popular with that crowd like the GTI, Miata, Mustang, Camaro, etc start to have more autos but they also have more appeal more to older buyers and non-enthusiasts. You might say it’s because the WRX has a dogshit CVT but the auto in the BRZ isn’t bad and it still doesn’t sell as well as a stick.
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Dec 8, 2021 20:02
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Rolo posted:Ok cool. I knew not to rely too hard on the AP AFR but I never knew why. Looking back at the logs it looks like it dips to exactly 11.03 on WOT but I won’t rely on it too much further. The only way to know for sure is to install a wideband sensor. But on an otherwise stock car, with just an Accessport, that’s overkill. You might be able to look at exhaust temp, I’m not sure if the new STI has it, but the problem with that is that both excessively rich and excessively lean AFR’s will both cause high EGT’s. If you start to consistently see lots of knock it might be cause for concern that might be caused by a lean AFR, but I mean on a new car with stock injectors and fuel pump and everything that seems unlikely.
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Dec 8, 2021 20:16
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jamal posted:An over 30 guy who uses it to commute? I'm being attacked!
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Dec 8, 2021 20:25
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i own every Bionicle posted:The only way to know for sure is to install a wideband sensor. But on an otherwise stock car, with just an Accessport, that’s overkill. You might be able to look at exhaust temp, I’m not sure if the new STI has it, but the problem with that is that both excessively rich and excessively lean AFR’s will both cause high EGT’s. If you start to consistently see lots of knock it might be cause for concern that might be caused by a lean AFR, but I mean on a new car with stock injectors and fuel pump and everything that seems unlikely. So knock and DAM are probably good enough ways to monitor the tune on their own? I’m perfectly happy with the car as it is now and don’t see myself doing exhaust, fuel or turbo stuff any time soon, I just wanted the throttle to smooth out a bit.
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Dec 8, 2021 20:57
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I said it before and I'll say it again. The day I give up a manual transmission is the day I go fully electric so you best be sure you have a compelling option there if you want my money. Zero interest in an automatic ICE. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Dec 8, 2021 |
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Dec 8, 2021 22:13
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Rolo posted:So knock and DAM are probably good enough ways to monitor the tune on their own? I’m perfectly happy with the car as it is now and don’t see myself doing exhaust, fuel or turbo stuff any time soon, I just wanted the throttle to smooth out a bit. Yes, I think that’s a good thing to keep an eye on. I have my AP set to display boost, DAM, feedback knock, fine knock learn, intake temp, and A/F learning 1. A/F learning values are the values at different loads/rpms where the ECU has decided to add or subtract fuel based on readings from the front O2 sensor. Positive values generally indicate it’s adding fuel to compensate for something, maybe an intake leak, maybe a weak injector, Etc. This article is helpful: https://www.cobbtuning.com/subaru-k...D4aAqSKEALw_wcB
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Dec 8, 2021 22:46
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Sweet deal, seems my numbers are all happy  .Now to figure out how to get the AP to track how many times I play “Radar Love”
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Dec 8, 2021 23:06
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daslog posted:The Subaru CVT is fine. The WRX isn't something that's meant to be rallied or raced. It's just a global platform car with a Turbo Since when is either of those first two statement true? Especially the first part, the CVT is absolutly *not* fine, a real auto is a shitload better than that lovely transmission.
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Dec 9, 2021 00:03
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I asked about the OTS map safety because I'm starting to lose interest in my WRX and maybe getting an Accessport would get be back into it. As much as I'd like a new BRZ or C7 the WRX is so practical that it's worth a shot I think.
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Dec 9, 2021 00:51
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Since when is either of those first two statement true? Especially the first part, the CVT is absolutly *not* fine, a real auto is a shitload better than that lovely transmission. The latest version of the CVT is somewhat reliable, but I wouldn't buy any Subaru made after 2007 anyway.
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Dec 9, 2021 02:18
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daslog posted:The latest version of the CVT is somewhat reliable "Somewhat" As long as you defy Subaru's "never need to change the transmission fluid" and do mostly freeway cruise maybe you can get to the end of warranty period unscathed and just LOL if you try and do a mod to the car.
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Dec 9, 2021 03:22
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Speaking of stickshifts, I just bought a manual 2005 Outback XT with some ugly rims, an illegal tint, and 180k miles on the odometer. This is my first Subaru, where do I pick up my vape and flannel?
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Dec 9, 2021 06:00
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plester1 posted:Speaking of stickshifts, I just bought a manual 2005 Outback XT with some ugly rims, an illegal tint, and 180k miles on the odometer. This is my first Subaru, where do I pick up my vape and flannel? Vape comes in the center console, flannels are produced by the cargo cover spool thingie somehow.
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Dec 9, 2021 13:19
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:"Somewhat" Remember the Subaru Justy? Same idea, disposable car. Yes the CVT isn't nearly as good as the 4EAT. If you are really one of those people that must have a Subaru you are stuck with it until the electric vehicles take over. In the meantime, Subaru is making money selling cars to soccer moms that they don't really care all that much about their customers having to do a $3000 repair every 100,000 miles. So yea, "fine" is definitely a relative term. As for mods? Subaru cares about detecting mods so they can deny warranty claims. They do not care about supporting mods. Just wrapping up, my son (who is a Subaru master tech) was telling me horror stories over the drop in quality they are seeing in the shop lately, with a big uptick in warranty claims. Subaru had been doing better when it came to quality, but it's all gone to poo poo now apparently.
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Dec 9, 2021 13:30
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Should I look into an air oil separator for my still-new STI?
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Dec 10, 2021 17:48
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Makes more sense new than when the inside is just covered in oil to me.
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Dec 10, 2021 18:06
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Rolo posted:Should I look into an air oil separator for my still-new STI? Yes, a good one like the IAG Street series
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Dec 10, 2021 19:43
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Majere posted:Yes, a good one like the IAG Street series Ugh. They’re sooo expennnnsiiiiive. Oh well, if it’s good for the long term or helps keep the value on the engine I’ll do it. Side note, after realizing I can’t put my bike in the trunk now I decided to invest in the OEM bars. The Thule mount is probably gonna be what goes with it but I’m so far very happy with how this looks, considering it was for a functional purpose.   Matches the wheels and looks great. Props to Subaru for putting bar mounts on everything.
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Dec 11, 2021 00:36
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Rolo posted:Ugh. They’re sooo expennnnsiiiiive. Oh well, if it’s good for the long term or helps keep the value on the engine I’ll do it. I am running the IAG street series and it works fantastic. But, it’s expensive as you say, and is lovecraftian mess in the engine bay. If you find a used one and a rebuild kit for them (which is just o rings and screws) you can save some money and have something that works identically to brand new. If I were starting from scratch I’d consider the Killer B version. It’s smaller and simpler and a lot quicker to install because it doesn’t heat itself with the engine coolant like the IAG does, which is of debatable necessity. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vGQfeqgi1XE Also, the engine actually as its own AOS. Doesn’t mean it’s perfect or adequate for more than stock power, especially when tracking it, but most people don’t even know it’s there so it’s worth understanding. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mO9mxDUDUDc
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Dec 11, 2021 20:47
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Thanks! I have some learning to do on the subject so you’re being very helpful. I used to rebuild airplane engines so that’s the extent of my AoS knowledge. It did lead to an affinity to the horizontally opposed though.
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Dec 11, 2021 21:13
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Anyone know of companies that sell a slightly upgraded BRZ/FRS/86 6spd? Looking for a service like Walter Motorsports offers for the Miata transmissions. Absolutely fragged 4th gear BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Dec 18, 2021 |
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Dec 18, 2021 20:19
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Welp, my 2005 WRX I've owned since 2008 got stolen Thursday Night, chances of it not being a write-off or ever seeing it again are pretty low in Seattle. Am not a big fan of the 2022 looks and I can't order a 2021 anymore. FML.
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Dec 19, 2021 01:18
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To be fair the WRX was never a good looking car. But regardless, as a victim of theft multiple times I can relate to how pissed/sad/helpless you probably feel. I'm sorry this happened to you.
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Dec 19, 2021 01:23
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Alzabo posted:Welp, my 2005 WRX I've owned since 2008 got stolen Thursday Night, chances of it not being a write-off or ever seeing it again are pretty low in Seattle. You can’t order one but I called every major dealer in my state and had options for 21’s. Only extremely hard part was finding a limited, had to upgrade to an STI to make that happen.
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Dec 19, 2021 01:46
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Rolo posted:You can’t order one but I called every major dealer in my state and had options for 21’s. Only extremely hard part was finding a limited, had to upgrade to an STI to make that happen. Good suggestion! Unfortunately, I'm SOL as what I need pretty much the same as what was stolen: manual transmission, WRB paint, no extras options. There are some examples in my area that optioned up and the wrong color. I called SOA and the CSR said orders for the 2022MY are going to open after new years, and that if I am able to lock in a VIN early on I should be able to take delivery of a 2022 by late April, early May.
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Dec 19, 2021 02:28
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I’ve found WRX bases in my state, not lying. Just make a list of every dealer in your willing-to-go radius and call everyone while frying up some breakfast or something chill. Granted I’m in NC, prolly harder to find one up there. Edit: auto-correct got me, I mean WRB WRX’s. Rolo fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Dec 19, 2021 |
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Dec 19, 2021 02:40
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Checked every Subaru dealer in Washington state, no dice. There are two in Oregon that are WRB+Manual, but are limited trim with moonroof and $5k+ market adjustment. Thanks for the suggestion Rolo, it was worth a shot. Edit: found another WRB, in Idaho. But it's Limited Trim with a CVT. 
Alzabo fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Dec 19, 2021 |
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Dec 19, 2021 03:17
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Aaah sorry if I got your hopes up. I found a bunch of what you’re looking for here and couldn’t find a limited to save my life. Market adjustments are bullshit either way, gently caress that.
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Dec 19, 2021 04:18
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Alzabo posted:Welp, my 2005 WRX I've owned since 2008 got stolen Thursday Night, chances of it not being a write-off or ever seeing it again are pretty low in Seattle. I'm so sorry to hear that, I love that second gen body style. Is it possibly a niche enough car that it might be able to be found?
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Dec 20, 2021 13:32
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AFewBricksShy posted:I'm so sorry to hear that, I love that second gen body style. Me too, I think the GD chassis' Peter Stevens facelift was pretty decent. It's hard to throw a rock without hitting a WRB GD chassis in Seattle, a lot of the stolen cars around here have their plates changed almost instantly. So even if your car is identified as abandoned, the police might take a while to check it out and run the VIN. Also the local police are intentionally inept.
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Dec 21, 2021 01:17
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