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Weekly progress update: We hauled the rest of that FJ60 to recycling.  Including all the other random scrap that went with it we hauled 1240 pounds of metal, total. The rest I either kept or was completely rusted away. That thing was mostly imaginary. Shuffled vehicles for a while; the FJ62 does fit in our house garage but it’s unnerving to hear the door opener knob bouncing across the roof as you back in.  The shuffle is because we now have a HOVER CAR out in the shop:  I’m finally starting on the 4-corners suspension refresh, which includes new lower control arms, tie rod ends, shocks, struts, and a brake job. The box with my “2ea rear wheel bearings” showed up with this inside:  Good job Nissan. Top notch parts department. The last four OEM parts orders I’ve made, from 4 different dealers for 2 different OEMs (Nissan and Toyota) have either been screwed up or haven’t showed up at all. I’m getting a little annoyed. Speaking of annoyed, this little ABS sensor is going to stall me for a bit while I figure out how to get it out without breaking.  At $200 each (aftermarket) they are worth significant effort.
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Nov 1, 2021 05:38
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That's going to be fun. Clean the area as best as you can, use some good penetrating fluid and gently try to rotate the sensor in it's socket (assuming it's a round hall effect head, if it's keyed in any way then don't do this, rare but I guess possible) If it's not in a heated space, get some warmth into the area, helps the plastic be less brittle and reduces the risk of snapping the bugger. Use a loose razor blade around the perimeter and gently pry it up, if you have plastic trim tools they can work ok here. If there's access from underneath you may be able to use a plastic pry tool to apply force to push it out as you're prying from the top. Good luck, if it's never been touched they can be a bitch.
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Nov 1, 2021 06:04
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Do you have to take it out? It looks like it's in the knuckle, can you unplug the other end and remove the entire knuckle and sensor as a unit to work on it, or is it such a bad design that you have to remove the sensor before removing the unit bearing assembly?
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Nov 1, 2021 06:16
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All the manuals say to remove the sensor first. I know the rear ones mount directly into the unit bearing; the front are in the knuckle but I don’t know exactly how they interface with the bearing. It’s in a heated space and I can’t touch it for the next two weeks, so that Aerokroil will have time to soak in. I just ordered three (3) new OEM Toyota keys for the FJ62, cut to code. $138.11. One of those will be the unused master so I never have to order keys by code again.
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Nov 1, 2021 07:09
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I’m now two vacations behind on pictures. Sorry. The new keys came in while we were gone; oh so fresh:  I took my keys to a locksmith to have them cut one key for two vehicles:  Now I can use the same key for either working Land Cruiser. It’s nice to keep my keychain to a minimum. Came back from the trip to a new tool in the mail:  Toyota filter has a decent anti-drainback valve; even after sitting for three weeks it was full of oil. I pulled apart the medium and it looks like there’s some sludge clearing out from the valve train:  (I adjusted the color and lighting a lot on that so you can see the gunk). That filter is out of the parts FJ62, which had a decent amount of crap built up in the head. The oil analysis came back not good, just like the last one. Coolant detected both times but this time there was a lot more copper & lead, indicating bad bearing wear. I’m still hoping the coolant issue is because of over pressurization, which I finally fixed *after* the last oil change. Compression is good. We shall see what happens. Started getting real snow this week, which means an hour or two every day shoveling. It also means I need to stay vigilant about the tent building snow:  We also spent several hours Friday night moving stuff around the driveway so that everything would be out from under the eaves when they start unloading snow. That meant moving the tent, which was extra fun after I’d finally gotten it situated and secured down. We tried moving stuff with it in place but that just wasn’t working. I finally got back into the Leaf, and destroyed the ABS sensors as expected:  Nissan FSM says to remove “without pulling or twisting”. Bull-loving-poo poo. I’m going to have to drill them out. Finally got a knuckle off right before I had to call it quits tonight. This wheel bearing is nasty: 
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Nov 22, 2021 06:27
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Okay, time to start catching up on vacation pictures. The doors are locking so you cannot escape and the slide projector is warming up. September 13, Yellowstone National Park. I’m going to limit this post to only jellystone; I’ll do one more for the remaining 4 days of that road trip. I only had one day in the park and that wasn’t enough; even with that I could easily fill several posts with pictures. Woke up bright and early, rolled through the south gate at exactly 6:30am. Made it to Yellowstone Lake by 7am and saw some geysers, elk, and the sunrise:  Stopped by Isa Lake on my way to Old Faithful:  Isa Lake is special because it straddles the continental divide - one outlet goes to the Atlantic and the other to the Pacific. Just to make things extra special, it’s the *west* outlet that goes to the Atlantic and the *east* outlet to the Pacific. As I came over the hill into the bowl with Old Faithful, it erupted. The air was below freezing so it looked like a volcano erupting in front of me. I would absolutely recommend the colder seasons to visit just for the enhanced geothermal viewing! Had some time to kill until the next eruption so explored the area. Obligatory ugly fat white tourist with a Bison picture:  (Yes, I stayed on the boardwalk) Found a good spot on the ‘far side’ of Old Faithful and waited for the next eruption, which was half an hour late.  Walked back around front and there were THOUSANDS of people. Maybe a dozen were viewing where I had been. Next stop was the Grand Prismatic Spring:  Pictures don’t do it justice. I would 100% recommend that stop for anyone no matter how crowded. It’s worth seeing up close. I took a side road and came across a lot of really neat stuff, like this little spring right next to the road:  And this very convenient geyser with nobody around:  Yellowstone, just like everywhere, is SO MUCH BETTER even just a tiny bit off the main roads. Stopped by Artist’s Paint Pots, which is really hard to photograph but still worth the effort to go see.  Next up was Middle Geyser Basin, home to the world’s largest geyser. It goes anywhere between 30 days and 50 years between eruptions; of course it erupted the day before I got there. However, that did meant I got to see this:  Cistern Spring is tied to the geyser and drains briefly after each eruption. I made the trek over to Yellowstone Canyon:  Very busy at the easy lookouts but I just did not have time for a hike. Still a gorgeous view. Stopped by Mammoth Hot Springs on my way out; I will have to explore these properly next time. By this point I was starting to get hangry.  Exiting the gate:  Instagram idiots were stopping in the middle for pictures and holding traffic. Please be considerate. I finally made it to my campsite north of the part right when it started getting dark. I feel a little bad that I accidentally reserved the group space; this is all one campsite. Sorry if anyone was trying to do a group campout that night! 
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Nov 22, 2021 07:02
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Keys: $120? You're making me happy I can get dealer keys cut for $11 for my Mazda's. Nissan: Ahahaha, yea definitely a Nissan. There was no way the sensor was coming out. Trip: Great photos, thank you for sharing.
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Nov 24, 2021 05:26
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Advent Horizon posted:And, finally, I GOT MY LICENSE PLATES BACK! Having artistic license plates rules and made me think of this project an artist and paint maker did, which would go with them nicely https://culturehustle.com/products/artistic-license e: now I read to the end of the thread, man that park is stunning. Rude Dude With Tude fucked around with this message at 14:59 on Nov 25, 2021 |
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Nov 25, 2021 14:32
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That artistic license is awesome! Sorry I haven’t updated; solid amounts of internet time have been hard to come by. Today marks 7 days in a row we’ve shoveled the driveway, totaling approximately 30 hours of labor. It usually takes two of us two hours to do everything, even with a large snowblower, and Wednesday we were forced to call in a plow. Doc, however, is loving this. Those light posts are just over 10’ tall:  I swapped the JW Speaker headlights between FJ62s:  And we took the time to aim them correctly:  Laser level really helped but next time we’ll also bring sidewalk chalk. Tape just did not stick to the concrete. I wish I got a picture of the headlights yesterday morning; by the time we got to my office there was a full inch of buildup on the front end but the headlight heaters did their job. Worked on the car but this sway bar link nut stopped me:  I ended up ordering new links so that one will just get cut out. Also a HUGE thanks to Big Taint for sending me a set of ABS sensors he happened to have lying around; those will save me about $500. I owe you big time, just name your favor. Since I’m waiting for car parts again I ordered up some new Kicker speakers for the FJ62’s front doors; the stock ones were pretty well dead.  Note that the stock speaker used a weird, non-symmetrical, 3-hole bolt pattern. Basically no aftermarket speakers fit until someone on ih8mud started 3D printing adapters. That was money well spent:  And, the biggest news, I picked up a big package, you might even say it’s Sumo-sized:  And it even had this fancy hunk o’ metal:  A brand-freaking-new H55F transmission! The pallet has the new H55F, full rebuild kit for the transfer case, 3:1 transfer case gears, ‘McNamara’ input gear for the transfer case (much more spline engagement than stock), and while I’m in there it also includes all new tcase gears and shafts except the front output. I just called Cruiser Brothers in Stockton and said ‘this is what I want, put what I need in the order’ and paid the bill, which came out to $8 more than the purchase price of my other three Land Cruisers put together. It is going to be so nice rowing brand new gears!
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Dec 11, 2021 07:46
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In my last post I mentioned the ‘McNamara input gear’. Here’s a quick explainer of what that is: The transfer case of Land Cruisers is hung off the transmission output shaft. It actually goes all the way through and there’s a support bearing on the back of the transfer case. From the transmission back, in order, there is an input gear, spacer, PTO gear, and then the support bearing. This is the input gear and spacer:  When you take the input gear off the transmission output shaft, you can see where it sat:  That spot wears and leads to slop . A ‘McNamara gear’ replaces the input gear and spacer combination with a gear that has double the spline engagement. For those keeping an older transmission that also means they can fix the slop without replacing an output shaft. For myself it means that’s one more brand new gear (remember, I’m doing all new gears). These example pictures are off the FJ60’s case, which I am currently preparing to sell and ship south:  Also Land Cruiser related, the high beam indicator light has been way too bright ever since we did the LED bulb swap. Teh internets says that it needs a “20 to 50 ohm, no more, 20W-rated resistor” to be the right brightness - but I already had that. Because my headlight wiring is really wonky compared to stock due to the LED headlights and LED bulbs, I did some exploratory readings and determined that the LED bulb, the way it’s wired, draws a peak of 39 milliamps when starting and basically gently caress all when running. 20W is not necessary. Way more ohms, however, were necessary - 2k instead of 20.  That teeny little 2k ohm 1/2 watt resister replaced the 52 ohm combination of crap that I had going on in the fender. Oh, and the car? gently caress Nissan.  I ended up ordered some fancy shallow u-joint sockets because a socket + ujoint was too tall. This is a terrible way to access the struts. I did get it out, though:  Right now I’m waiting for a fresh parts order; I ordered every goddamn nut and bolt in the suspension because this thing only knows violence. See?  That’s the strut top nut and a broken hex key. I’m getting really tired of this crap.
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Dec 19, 2021 08:47
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Oh they pulled that poo poo on the leaf too did they? The Tiida/Versa has the strut under plenum design as well. Step one of removing a strut should never be “Remove windscreen wipers”
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Dec 19, 2021 14:36
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I watched a YouTube how-to video and the guy stuck his whole hand in there with a ratchet. I don’t know what kind of tiny double-jointed hand he has but that crap doesn’t work for normal humans.
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Dec 19, 2021 16:54
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Just a random FYI - this is currently my favorite thread.
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Dec 20, 2021 16:22
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A quick good news/bad news update before we pause everything for the holidays: I got that transfer case put back together for shipping:  No ‘spare’ parts! This was really good practice for the one I’ll be doing in a month or two with new parts. We also pulled out and sorted everything else we’re hoping to sell south. I have some oddball stuff like an FJ55 parking brake, PTO winch, Fairey Overdrive…All stuff that long ago had plans, but plans change. And, lastly, the bad news:  Doc has never even chewed a shoe before. Seat foam plus fabric for just the front seats is over $1,000. Ugh.
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Dec 21, 2021 21:07
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Advent Horizon posted:A quick good news/bad news update before we pause everything for the holidays: Can you somehow drive that down to like that and get it reupholstered? I have to think it'd be cheaper to have a shop do it?
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Dec 21, 2021 22:48
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Now that is disappointing. I am assuming a used seat is rare/cost prohibitive? For comparison, the same parts on my 00 f250 in leather were $300.
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Dec 21, 2021 23:00
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I’ve never seen an original seat that still had decent foam, and the only place that sells new foam pre-made wants $400 for a pair of the bottoms only. New fabric runs about $380 for the front seats or $600 if you want the back to match (since the new fabric isn’t factory original). Neither of those prices include shipping and the foam, especially, would be an expensive freight bill (the vendor is known for that). We *think* the fabric off one of the other ‘cruisers should be salvageable. We’ll just have to order the foam and do it ourselves. There’s an upholstery shop in town but since I don’t think we need the fabric it’s just another project to add to our list. Might as well add seat heaters while we’re in there. If anyone has good suggestions for where to buy foam, I’m all ears.
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Dec 21, 2021 23:06
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Doc noooooo
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Dec 21, 2021 23:40
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I’m about to get priced out of a vehicle I already own.  That’s a thousand dollars ($1,000.00 USD) more than the *transmission*.
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Dec 22, 2021 00:56
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Welcome to the world of "pay to play" - I'd badly like to go back ~6 years before all this nonsense started.
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Dec 22, 2021 01:05
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the spyder posted:Welcome to the world of "pay to play" - I'd badly like to go back ~6 years before all this nonsense started. Christ that sucks but yeaaaah this is the world we're in now.
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Dec 22, 2021 01:53
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Good God. I never would have expected the cost of putting new seats in the Toyota to be higher than the cost of getting them out of the dog at the vet.
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Dec 22, 2021 03:02
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This is the price of trying to stay "correct." Throw some aftermarket seats in there and fuckin drive it. It's why I have a $25 ignition coil in my C2 vette instead of the $100 one with the proper stamp in the plastic. You can always go back later and change it. Godholio fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Dec 22, 2021 |
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Dec 22, 2021 03:58
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Godholio posted:This is the price of trying to stay "correct." Throw some aftermarket seats in there and fuckin drive it. It's why I have a $25 ignition coil in my C2 vette instead of the $100 one with the proper stamp in the plastic. This. gently caress the pirates who think they can charge that much and get it. Don't enable them.
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Dec 22, 2021 23:56
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Before this goes any further I want to be absolutely clear that I’m not paying that much for seat cushions. We have a non-torn set of seat fabric that we will be using and had already planned to reupholster the seats before this happened. Doc just shuffled the schedule. Realistically, if the foam is going to be more than a couple hundred bucks we’re going to do it ourselves. I just need to find a good place to order the correct density from.
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Dec 23, 2021 04:35
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Went to Los Anchorage for Christmas with family. Basically nobody but family wears masks there now, so that was just lovely. Even this 747 understands that masks work:  This is a real business down the street from my parents:  We tried cooking a meal in my inlaws kitchen, where I found this tin of Marjoram that appears to be from 1974:   Yes, I know that date isn’t set in stone but there wasn’t anything else on the tin. Anyways, got back to more snowmageddon - this morning we found a city snowblower stuck at the end of our street:  The piles in our driveway are just shy of ten feet tall, and we’re just now entering what is normally the snowy season. Very soon we will need to figure out how to get rid of some snow as it’s already tough to throw it high enough. For actual car updates, I got the strut put back together after some fresh parts arrived. Yes, this is really how you’re supposed to do this:  How do you properly torque the nut? No idea. I’ve also found fresh reasons to hate Nissan, such as this part of the steering linkage that is not metric:  11mm is too small, 12mm slips. The tie rod end also uses 3/4, but the threaded lock nut is 17mm.  Nissan?!Tonight my wife helped out in the shop, we had to cut a couple bolts off the car and I needed someone to hold the vice grips. After that I asked that she try to run the replacement ABS sensor wire. I heard a lot of cursing, a bolt was broken, and she didn’t get much accomplished. I had no better luck in my attempt to remove the unit bearing from the knuckle. There’s no way to press it out without trashing the brake backing plate. Maybe if one was to weld up a special jig it would work - but I am not a welder. I finally put a pool of Aerokroil in it and left for the night.  The factory manual just says to remove the bolts - no mention of a press fit. Figures.
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Jan 3, 2022 07:13
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Put bolts in half a dozen turns, put a sacrificial socket on them (so the heads remain recognizable) and bash the gently caress out of them in a star pattern using a large chakra adjustment hammer. Eventually it will pop out, then you unscrew the bolts again.
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Jan 3, 2022 10:49
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If I could brace the knuckle to do that, I could just use the press. The brake backing plate is between the knuckle and the bearing. It has a bunch of bends that prevent my from getting support to the knuckle without flattening the plate or just bending it completely out of the way. I tried a bunch of different combinations in the press and nothing worked. I suspect I’ll either manage to beat it out with a hammer while holding the knuckle by the steering arm or I’ll end up trying to make a wooden jig.
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Jan 3, 2022 16:45
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kastein posted:Put bolts in half a dozen turns, put a sacrificial socket on them (so the heads remain recognizable) and bash the gently caress out of them in a star pattern using a large chakra adjustment hammer. Eventually it will pop out, then you unscrew the bolts again. I did this with just a big rear end impact socket on the bearing itself. Mini sledge done hosed that socket up. But it was enough for 2 bearings. 
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Jan 3, 2022 17:40
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I seem to recall doing this job on a domestic truck by unthreading the bolts a bit, then putting a long socket on one of the bolts and turning the steering wheel to use the power steering as a hydraulic press.
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Jan 3, 2022 17:47
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Advent Horizon posted:
Get a crow's foot "socket" on the torque wrench? You can correct for the added length easily. I think my crows feet add 1 inch.
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Jan 3, 2022 22:14
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I hadn’t thought of the crow’s foot. I’ll do that with the other one, thanks! I got the bearing out. That pool of Kroil soaked through so I mounted it in the vice and went to pound town with a hammer:  After a dozen or so whacks the bearing went flying at my water heater. I ended up drilling out the ABS sensor:  Even after that I still had to chip out the pieces with a chisel. I also figured out that the headlights have to come out to get to the sensor wiring. That, right - Nissan designed this car in such a manner that I have to remove the headlights to change the wheel bearings. gently caress you, Nissan.
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Jan 4, 2022 06:25
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That's pretty much what I meant there, yeah. Those backing plates look semi optional BTW. I haven't put one back on a car that wasn't integral to the parking brake or drum brake assembly since, uhh, 2009 I think? They go straight in the scrap pile generally.
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Jan 4, 2022 11:08
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Given their position between the knuckle and bearing I would at least leave a small portion of it to maintain the rotor-to-knuckle/caliper spacing. I’m trying to keep this car nice/stock, though. Oh, side note, we’re seriously considering buying a couple mattress toppers for the 3” thick high density memory foam. Any reason this would be a bad idea? It appears that mattress toppers are a similar density to car seat foam, but actual numbers are hard to come by.
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Jan 4, 2022 16:35
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Advent Horizon posted:Given their position between the knuckle and bearing I would at least leave a small portion of it to maintain the rotor-to-knuckle/caliper spacing. I’m trying to keep this car nice/stock, though. I don't think mattress toppers will be anywhere near dense enough for a seat cushion.
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Jan 4, 2022 16:47
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Advent Horizon posted:Given their position between the knuckle and bearing I would at least leave a small portion of it to maintain the rotor-to-knuckle/caliper spacing. I’m trying to keep this car nice/stock, though. Maybe, but how thick are they? Most are like 16ga at most and can just be eliminated without further consideration. I guess I should have mentioned that, if they're thicker than that for some reason (Nissan...) It might actually affect things.
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Jan 4, 2022 17:12
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Godholio posted:Get a crow's foot "socket" on the torque wrench? You can correct for the added length easily. I think my crows feet add 1 inch. If you put the crow's foot at 90 degrees to the wrench, there's no change in torque.
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Jan 4, 2022 18:07
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Advent Horizon posted:Given their position between the knuckle and bearing I would at least leave a small portion of it to maintain the rotor-to-knuckle/caliper spacing. I’m trying to keep this car nice/stock, though. I've currently got my Saab seats with knackered foam stripped down for repair and have both a 12 year old IKEA half memory foam mattress and a 9 month old IKEA standard foam mattress here that have been chopped up. (I turned the double width standard foam mattress into a 1.5 size mattress for the truck so have a long strip left over and with the memory foam mattress I saved both edges out of curiosity after binning the rest after getting a new one) Having sat there and squeezed all the foam I think the standard stuff is a much better match for the seat foam and I am going to try and use that to remake my seat bases. I can do some videos if it helps. The memory foam mattress is also not rectangular either but is undulating inside - which would end up weird at the edges if you have to shape it. The standard foam mattress I have here is an IKEA NYHAMN (intended for a sofa bed), which is described as "firm foam". It was £75 for a double and the foam is a simple rectangular profile Look for a firm foam one in a single width. You need to check the profile of the foams too as many of the ikea ones are undulating on one side which may make it tricky to shape the sides for your seats.
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Jan 4, 2022 18:17
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I’d love to see other attempts, please  We have a big chunk of multi-layer memory foam mattress (regular foam core) that’s lying around; we could use that for the base. It has been discussed to use that as a test attempt at carving a seat bottom; we could try sitting on it for a while after carving to see how that feels. I’m not talking about buying a new mattress, I’m talking about a topper. The memory foam built into mattresses seems to be a lot less dense; the 3” thick toppers, from my non-scientific squeezing, appear to be far more dense. I think this is the one at our local Costco: https://www.costco.com/novaform-overnight-recovery-3%22-mattress-topper.product.100476301.html We were thinking glue 2ea 3” thick layers together to get the needed 6” thickness. The only things I’ve spent money on so far are an electric knife and the seat heater kits.
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Jan 4, 2022 18:43
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I've always wondered how a more dense Dunlop latex foam like they use in some mattresses would work as a seat base. Seems like it would be great if you can manage to get a hold of the right density for a reasonable price.
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Jan 4, 2022 22:52
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