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I have an old Sony Trinitron that has been flaking out for the last year or so, sometimes working and sometimes not. One of the times it was sort of working I observed the picture narrowing up before it died for the session. It finally has been consistently not powering up the tube so I pulled the boards hoping for something obvious. Nothing jumped out at me, but I finally found this capacitor that looks mighty suspect. No electrolyte exploded onto the board or nearby parts or anything but it's a nasty brown color compared to the nice clean silver cap of what appears to be the same type, but smaller that's right next to it. There's another one out of focus to the top left of the center transformer too. The circled cap also has a little bump on the top that's someone hard to pick up in the photo possibly, so I think it had a classic failure of getting old and starting to dry out then overheating. Finally, that section of the board is marked H-Drive which I imagine is the horizontal deflection, tying it back to observing the picture narrowing when it sort of was working. So I'm pretty confident that's the guy (at least the acute issue anyway), I'll pull it tomorrow to confirm. I expect to replace it, but I'm actually not quite sure what sort of capacitor that is. Looks like a film cap, 47nF but other than that I'm lost and not sure if any old cap will do (I suspect not, at least not without possibly degrading the picture quality?). If anyone is familiar with the type, I'd love some assistance here so I can order up a replacement. Thanks! Edit: Well I suppose it wouldn't be electrolyte if it's a non-electrolytic cap... but still, that don't look right Forseti fucked around with this message at 07:12 on Dec 17, 2021 |
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Dec 17, 2021 07:03
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Looks like a film capacitor to me, too. I've never seen a failed one before but I guess anything can fail. Film capacitors are noted for having a low leakage and low dissipation factor. Looking into it further I found that the low dissipation factor makes them attractive for CRT scan circuits. So I assume you'll want something at least as good as a film capacitor regarding that.
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Dec 17, 2021 07:13
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BattleMaster posted:Looks like a film capacitor to me, too. I've never seen a failed one before but I guess anything can fail. Good point now that you mention it, I haven't heard of non-electrolytic caps causing issues either really. Except for specifically RIFA caps that I know of from watching too many retro computer nerds on youtube and I think those are some type of film cap. Now I'm wondering if that little R in the square is their marking... I wrote it a bit ambiguously, but I was intending to replace with another film cap I just wasn't sure if there was a difference between types that would be significant in this application. I have some polyester 47nF caps from Matsushita, though they're 20% tolerance instead of 10%. I do have a bag of them though if I could make up for it by measuring them. I also have some mylar caps the right value as well I think. Just wasn't sure what the main difference was between various film types and if it would be important. If nothing else I guess I can stick one in there and see how it looks? Maybe let the TV work until I get around to ordering a like for like replacement anyway. I guess considering film caps typical problem free service I should really look around for an underlying issue if this cap is indeed the problem.
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Dec 17, 2021 08:10
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Even if it's not a RIFA it looks like it's made using the exact same epoxy dip method RIFA used and I would not be surprised one bit if it suffered the same cracking problems.
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Dec 17, 2021 10:33
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Red Imported Fire Ants‽‽‽‽ 🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜🐜
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Dec 17, 2021 11:41
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Dominoes posted:Red Imported Fire Ants‽‽‽‽ It's a brand of capacitor notorious for failing spectacularly (especially as they were frequently EMI suppression caps iirc on the mains input) and also used in TONS of stuff including quality built stuff like old Apple Macs, Tektronics, and HP. Apparently they're Kemet now (or always were a sub brand? not sure), who come to think of it also made the other caps I've had to replace recently. My HP 54601a oscilloscope had failed tantalum caps that they made, those were kind enough to put scorch marks on the PCB though so they were easy to find 
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Dec 17, 2021 15:41
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Maybe the problem was ants being attracted, then fouling up the circuits
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Dec 17, 2021 22:37
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I mostly know about em' from the EEVBlog video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XAbrU17hLTM But yeah the particular epoxy stuff they used would crack over time and let air and moisture in, and they're supposed to be safety-rated capacitors so they were often used directly across the mains so moisture would get in, short out the main power line input and in a lot of cases blow the gently caress up. I guess if the short's not too bad or limited by other circuitry it could just cook the cap too. Also I was thinking, if it's a cap used in the deflection circuitry it's constantly being charged and discharged with each scan line, over and over again, hundreds of thousands of times per second for the entire life of the TV - it might not even be a bad (as in defective) cap, it might just have gotten so much use it's slowly degraded and cooked itself.
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Dec 17, 2021 22:50
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Forseti posted:I have an old Sony Trinitron that has been flaking out for the last year or so, sometimes working and sometimes not. One of the times it was sort of working I observed the picture narrowing up before it died for the session. It finally has been consistently not powering up the tube so I pulled the boards hoping for something obvious. Nothing jumped out at me, but I finally found this capacitor that looks mighty suspect. While Rifa caps are notoriously unreliable I'd be checking the horizontal driver and the associated flyback circuitry, as well as the main power supply. Narrowing horizontal deflection could just be the power supply feeding the horizontal driver dying. Now that it's not giving a picture, can you see any signs of life at all, like the CRT filament glowing (sometimes hard to see, but usually visible)? Do not start poking around with power on near where the horizontal output/flyback (these are always right next to each other), there's some seriously high voltage pulses (in the 1-4 kV range) around there that can fry common multimeters and scopes if you're not using specialized high voltage probes. Inductive measurement by clipping the scope ground lead onto the probe tip to make a small loop antenna can be used to see if things are running or not. Generally outside of capacitor failures, cheap PCBs like that have an extremely common failure mode where solder joints crack, especially around heavy and hot components. I think one of the most common failures is connectors and transistors attached to heatsinks. Jordan Pier does a fair amount of troubleshooting on this type of stuff https://www.youtube.com/c/JordanPier It's fairly common to start by re-soldering everything in the area where you expect problems like the power supply, horizontal, and the neck-board where the tube connects.
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Dec 17, 2021 23:15
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Dominoes posted:Maybe the problem was ants being attracted, then fouling up the circuits https://jstor.org/stable/25085325
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Dec 17, 2021 23:20
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My father was an automechanic down in very deep south Louisiana. Whenever we had a big rainy event and the ants would get riled up / pushed out of their nests we'd get a rash of cars coming into (towed into) the shop with electrical problems. We'd pop the plastic covers off of relays etc and they'd be completely jammed full with ants so that they could no longer mechanically function. This was in the early to mid 90s. I seem to recall it happening more in domestic cars but I could be wrong there. Haven't heard tons about it before or since but we definitely had a few years where ants were knocking out cars which I always remembered as being pretty neat. e: I just remembered my older sister did a science fair project using some of these relays and a slowly rotating disk over an oil trap as a non-pesticide ant killer you could toss in your yard.
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Dec 18, 2021 13:08
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Yikes! The ozone?
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Dec 18, 2021 14:34
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Dominoes posted:Yikes! The ozone? They weren't being killed by any arcing iirc. The relays jammed up were mostly live ants. The trap just used that as an attractant, the slowly spinning disc just knocks them into the oil.
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Dec 18, 2021 18:08
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Hey Forseti, you've been careful opening up that old tube TV, right? Do you know how to safely discharge the tube so that it doesn't kill you??????
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Dec 20, 2021 20:41
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I'm looking to get a combination soldering iron / hot air rework station. =At work, between 3 people, we have been using varations of this pile of poo poo. I also bought one for home use that died recently. I think we have gone through 6-7 in as many years including one where the heating coil in the rework gun burnt up on the second day of use. We replaced them with two even cheaper models and both of those were faulty right out of the box. We'll keep replacing the ones at work with lovely ones as they crap out, so that isn't a problem. I'm looking to get one for home use to replace the my personal one that crapped out. Cashwise, I'm not in the Weller range, so I am looking at something in the $300-$500 range. I'd almost prefer one that doesn't have a built in power supply as that is a feature that costs money that I don't need. Just a reliable soldering iron and hot air rework tool is all I need. No frills. Any recommendations? edit: to clairfy, it will obviously need a built in power supply to power the unit. I meant one of the units that functions as an external variable power supply. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 03:27 on Dec 22, 2021 |
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Dec 22, 2021 03:03
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SkunkDuster posted:I'm looking to get a combination soldering iron / hot air rework station. =At work, between 3 people, we have been using varations of this pile of poo poo. I also bought one for home use that died recently. I think we have gone through 6-7 in as many years including one where the heating coil in the rework gun burnt up on the second day of use. I've never seen a combination (hot air+soldering iron) rework station with a decent iron. I would stick with a cheap-ish hot air station, and splurge a bit more on the iron (depending on your needs). I use this for hot air, seems to be significantly better build quality than the <100$ stations you see on amazon. I've never bothered with the suction pen. The same brand also makes units with soldering irons, but I would avoid them. e: looks like weller was acquired and discontinued the WES51 and WESD51, lol owned
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Dec 22, 2021 13:50
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I think the general rule for hot air stations is the ones with the heater/fan in the box will do a better job than one with everything in the handle. I use mine all the time so when my last one went nuclear (something else the heater-in-the-handle types seem to have a habit of doing for some reason...) I saved up and got me the one Dave on EEVBlog uses: https://www.amazon.com/Quick-861DW-Digital-Station-Display/dp/B00EID23J6/ Works fantastic, the temperature is very accurate and constant no matter what air speed I'm using. Plus when it says a goddamn kilowatt it means it so if I need to I can crank the heat way up and now I have a magic wand that lights poo poo on fire at a distance. Y'know, for electronics reasons. The cheaper one Anime Akbar posted almost certainly works just as well too tbh, I went with this at the time cuz I'd seen Dave use it a lot so I knew what it was capable of.
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Dec 22, 2021 16:23
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I'll add a +1 for the Quick hot air stations. I have the 957+ which is around $120 and for what I use it for (desoldering mostly, doing heat shrink without burning stuff, haven't done real solder paste soldering yet) it's been great. Makes the LED lights in the room flicker like crazy though. On related soldering tool info... 1) Anyone have an HDMI microscope they're happy with? I guess the options are take your shot from aliexpress or pay 2x at amazon. Finding ones that have a reasonable working distance to get your soldering iron under seems possibly hit-or-miss. 2) Any suggestions for placing/holding ICs when soldering? I have some good drag tips for my metcal so soldering even 0.5 pitch QFPs is no problem at all... once they're lined up. My hands are hardly shaky but it's still a nightmare. Even if I used a microscope and a suction cup tool to align it, tacking down the corners or even just spreading flux on the pins will send things flying. Do people use blue-tac or something underneath larger chips? For 0603's or 0402's trying to hold them down so they don't tombstone is really tricky and there's not really room for any glue. My normal procedure for small passives is put a little solder on a pad, heat it with the iron then slide the part into it and remove heat, but even that is really finicky to get perfect and I end up reheating stuff 2-3 times. Rescue Toaster fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Dec 22, 2021 |
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Dec 22, 2021 18:54
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Rescue Toaster posted:Makes the LED lights in the room flicker like crazy though. Lmao I thought I just had bad wiring
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Dec 22, 2021 19:22
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Rescue Toaster posted:2) Any suggestions for placing/holding ICs when soldering? I have some good drag tips for my metcal so soldering even 0.5 pitch QFPs is no problem at all... once they're lined up. My hands are hardly shaky but it's still a nightmare. Even if I used a microscope and a suction cup tool to align it, tacking down the corners or even just spreading flux on the pins will send things flying. Do people use blue-tac or something underneath larger chips? For 0603's or 0402's trying to hold them down so they don't tombstone is really tricky and there's not really room for any glue. My normal procedure for small passives is put a little solder on a pad, heat it with the iron then slide the part into it and remove heat, but even that is really finicky to get perfect and I end up reheating stuff 2-3 times. I use tweezers to hold the chip while I do the tacking. (just pressing down on the top with closed tweezers, not actually holding it in the jaws) Tacky flux helps to keep the chip from sliding too much when getting ready, but once you add heat it loses the tackiness so I find I need some kind of physical thing to hold it still.
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Dec 22, 2021 19:28
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i want to put a little 12v ~1 amp dc motor and raspberry pi 0 at the end of an Ethernet cable and use the cable to power and control it. i want to have at least 100ft of cable. im thinking I can use some transformers to step up to 48v and use some power over Ethernet splitters and step it down at the end. i think this should let me get an amp down the power line without too much power loss over the distance without burning out the wires. Thoughts on this approach? i don't think 12v alone is gonna cut it over the distance
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Dec 22, 2021 22:18
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Yeah, that sounds like a good approach to me. People are going to swoop in now to make sure this is a purpose-built installation, and you're not trying to do it through your house ethernet or whatever, but other than that, standard PoE can do more than 12W for sure.
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Dec 22, 2021 22:25
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im gonna try making a submergible camera with a little water pump on it, so yeah it's a toy basically
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Dec 22, 2021 22:35
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Transformers only work with ac. PoE is normally 48VDC. Are you planning on putting nonstandard voltages on it and rectifying for the DC motor?
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Dec 22, 2021 22:52
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lmao a house wired with 50VAC poe through the walls that's some spicy cables for sure. just use 120/240v ac, please, e: okay that's different, my bad gonadic io fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Dec 22, 2021 |
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Dec 22, 2021 22:59
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im going to use a DC step up converter or whatever the actual component is called. i'm drawing on physics knowledge from a decade ago  this isn't in a house, it's portable to take to lakes and rivers so i can look at the bottom of them. i want to be able to take a regular 12v battery with a standard connector and plug it into a step up converter that pipes that power to a poe splitter into ethernet. then at the pi side i'll step it back down to 12v to run the pump plugged into a motor controller connected to the pi.
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Dec 22, 2021 23:03
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PokeJoe posted:im going to use a DC step up converter or whatever the actual component is called. i'm drawing on physics knowledge from a decade ago I think people are getting a little mixed up because about 3 pages back someone was asking how to run PoE cables through their walls to power everything off a solar panel / battery
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Dec 22, 2021 23:12
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uh yeah I'm not trying to do any weird house poo poo or avoid using a normal power outlet. i want to build a drive by wire underwater robot since wireless communication doesn't work down there and I wanna stick with a cheap cable I don't have to modify. poe exists so it seems like a good solution since what I'm making isn't really any different than a waterproof security camera you can aim with a servo
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Dec 22, 2021 23:17
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DC-DC converters to go 12VDC->48VDC->12VDC is fine and makes sense. Transformers and AC would make cables that destroy any normal ethernet you plugged them into because it'll go through the DC blocking parts of ethernet that let PoE work
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Dec 23, 2021 00:29
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Assuming you can get a voltage converter on the submersible end that converts to the voltage you need to power everything, you could probably just get a POE injector (make sure it supports a POE standard that gives you enough power). Then you can connect your signal to an ethernet cable, plug it into the ethernet injector, and then run another cable to your camera thing and then break the cable out into the power to convert, and your signal lines. How are you planning to send the signal? The RPi0 doesn't have an ethernet port, so you can't really utilize that, unless you use a USB to ethernet adapter. I don't know if sending a raw signal down 100 feet of cable will work without the encoding schemes that ethernet uses.
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Dec 23, 2021 01:14
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What is the key criteria of matching an DC-AC inverter to an EL backlight? On the heels of a bunch of other stuff I’m doing with my vintage samplers, I have an Akai S3000XL that has a backlight inverter that is K I L L I N G me with a super audible whine. It’s really distracting and it’s time to do something about it. I gather that EL inverters provide relatively high voltage AC at low current, at specific frequencies. If I were to look to replace it, do I need to match the exact specs of the existing inverter or is there some wiggle room? I’ve done a google search for the part (NICHIA N105-05-5 or NI05-05-5) and it’s not immediately clear what this outputs. I’ll grab my multimeter tomorrow and get at least a voltage measurement, but as far as EL goes, is a different AC voltage and frequency just going to affect brightness, or is it something where it could cause damage to the EL strip if I pick the wrong inverter circuit? Right now I’m playing the money game where it looks like I can probably replace the inverter circuit for X amount of money, or I can just upgrade to a full LED backlit display which is probably superior in every way to be honest, for about $200CDN. That’s a sizeable amount of money and a non-insignificant percentage of the price I paid for the actual sampler so obviously I’m balking at just upgrading the LCD, but if it’s a huge hassle I will just bite the bullet and do it. So fact-finding, right now. Any thoughts would be appreciated!
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Dec 23, 2021 02:05
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Cojawfee posted:Assuming you can get a voltage converter on the submersible end that converts to the voltage you need to power everything, you could probably just get a POE injector (make sure it supports a POE standard that gives you enough power). Then you can connect your signal to an ethernet cable, plug it into the ethernet injector, and then run another cable to your camera thing and then break the cable out into the power to convert, and your signal lines. Yeah that's my plan, there's purpose made poe splitters that take 48v in and give 12v out so it's compact for the submersible. Topside i can use a passive poe injector to plug in a stepped up battery or power supply. For the pi im gonna try exactly what you said, an ethernet-usb adapter. If that doesn't work I'll have to think about it a bit
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Dec 23, 2021 03:20
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Just make sure you get the right POE standard. Most devices seem to be 802.3af which only guarantees up to 13 watts. You've got 12 watts for your motor, and the Pi0 seems like it can use around a watt. And I don't know what else you'll have in there and how much power that needs.
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Dec 23, 2021 04:08
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I'm building a USB mouse around a PIC microcontroller and a Pixart mouse sensor. The uC will happily operate on the USB 5V power, but the mouse sensor is picky and wants between 1.8 and 2.1V. Datasheet says it will draw up to 21mA at 1.9V. What's a small, easy way to get 1.9V from 5V? An LM317 seems like overkill (in terms of physical size).
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Dec 23, 2021 23:20
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Definitely use an LDO, and just go to Digikey and filter the parameters you need, and the package sizes you're okay with. There are some tiny ones that are probably overkill in the other direction
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Dec 23, 2021 23:27
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getting back into electronics after a decade+ away, spent a few hundo this fall on a new toolkit, starter component kits, and one of those "ages 9-99" arduino learning kits- holy moly the state of the art has advanced since the mid 00s! There are kits for things you used to have to cannibalize retail electronics for!! My new soldering iron is a Pinecil and completely blows away the cheapest Radio Shack iron I used to have!!! finding that I need to get a bunch of Dupont connectors, all of the Dupont connectors, a sixteen pound bouquet of Dupont connectors v excited- couple questions- first learned electronics using a 1990s textbook for autodidacts, Basic Electronics Theory by Delton T Horn- my copy suffered some water damage and I'm thinking of ordering another- unless there's a better, newer book for learning the mathematics and physics of electronics? I've learned quite a bit about how to make this Mega 2560 Arduino board do things, and I'm v interested in Arduino-compatible ICs that are very cheap, for a couple projects I have in mind- are the ATTiny chips the best option for sub-$5 per unit price? Also, is there a good info sheet comparing all of the Atmel-compatible chips? I have an idea for digital dice and I'm p certain an ATTiny84 could more than handle it, but I'm not 100% certain at any rate I'm very stoked to get back into this after dropping it for so long d/t poor health. First thing I did upon receiving the kit was prototype up a very simple 555 buzzer, a circuit I used to frequently make for use in stage performances. Smiled real big when it Just Worked after wiring it- still got it!
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Dec 24, 2021 01:15
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Peanut Butler posted:getting back into electronics after a decade+ away, spent a few hundo this fall on a new toolkit, starter component kits, and one of those "ages 9-99" arduino learning kits- Probably having a few books around is the best way to learn. It seems, at least for me, like it takes the right explanation at the right time to learn something, and then takes encountering the same material again a few times in different contexts to really drive it home. My go-to text is The Art of Electronics, but it's not the one I used in school and I wouldn't say it's leaps and bounds above others. It emphasizes building intuition over theoretical rigor and moves fast. It's a thick book but doesn't waste much space. Best of luck getting back into electronics. I finally came back around to using my soldering iron again in 2015 after years of being the kind of "computer engineer" who only wrote code. I'm still only OK at soldering but it was a good change and now my day job has a lot more circuits in it than it did then. It was a much-needed change.
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Dec 24, 2021 04:30
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ANIME AKBAR posted:e: looks like weller was acquired and discontinued the WES51 and WESD51, lol owned What is the context of this? I have a Weller iron that is similar to the WES51, but without the heat control. The heat settings are "off" and "hot enough to weld steel". I'm going to look at modifying it to add heat control and took your advice to get a dedicated hot air station: I do a lot of soldering at work, but just occasional hobby use at home mostly with through hole stuff. I don't need anything fancy, I just want something reliable that isn't going to crap out after 20 hours of use. I probably should have mentioned that I very rarely do any SMD work at home. I mainly use the hot air for removing components and heat shrink.
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Dec 24, 2021 06:22
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I like my Pinecil iron quite a bit, p inexpensive, compact, integrated temp control, cute lil OLED screen, runs on 12-20V DC over barrel or usb-c I'm supplying 12v to it and it heats up to 350~400°C quickly enough, lots of ppl build power supplies/soldering stations for it from 12v Makita batteries mostly I like how it's lightweight and not nearly as bulky as a traditional iron Stack Machine posted:Probably having a few books around is the best way to learn. It seems, at least for me, like it takes the right explanation at the right time to learn something, and then takes encountering the same material again a few times in different contexts to really drive it home. My go-to text is The Art of Electronics, but it's not the one I used in school and I wouldn't say it's leaps and bounds above others. It emphasizes building intuition over theoretical rigor and moves fast. It's a thick book but doesn't waste much space. thanks for the recommend! I found a good Arduino programming book at the library (Exploring Arduino, J. Blum) at least, one that is a lot better than the Elegoo pdf that came with my kit- the pdf just has examples of how code interacts with components, which is better than nothing, but doesn't explain anything either
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Dec 24, 2021 16:57
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Ok, you convinced me, I'll order a pinecil.
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Dec 24, 2021 17:46
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