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So I've started to get interested in the engineering side of motorized transportation, and am currently looking at horse power vs. torque (lol no hate pls). I more or less figured it out, but I am missing one denominator in the whole equation: weight. What's the point of telling me the horse power and nm of a car, when I'm unsure of its weight? Is there some kind of measurement that takes that into account? Like putting the same engine in an SUV vs. a Yaris, I'd like to have some measurement unit that tells me about torque x time / weight.
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Dec 25, 2021 12:07
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busalover posted:So I've started to get interested in the engineering side of motorized transportation, and am currently looking at horse power vs. torque (lol no hate pls). I more or less figured it out, but I am missing one denominator in the whole equation: weight. What's the point of telling me the horse power and nm of a car, when I'm unsure of its weight? Is there some kind of measurement that takes that into account? Like putting the same engine in an SUV vs. a Yaris, I'd like to have some measurement unit that tells me about torque x time / weight. Well yeah you can use weight per horsepower (or vice versa) which is the common way people talk about this stuff. Actual performance will depend on a lot of other factors too though like tires, weight distribution, gearing, etc.
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Dec 25, 2021 12:26
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Power to weight ratio, sometimes stated in hp/lb but usually more usefully as hp/ton.
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Dec 25, 2021 14:10
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spankmeister posted:So you do want OEM parts. They're usually a lot cheaper than dealer parts but just as good because they're the same part or 99% the same. Basically this. It’s usually easy to find the OEM supplier and buy that, if you want. Rockauto is pretty good for showing which is OEM in my experience. So is the NAPA trade site, not sure what the public site looks like. It’s worth doing a little homework either way. I work for a dealer group, and we frequently have listings that are actually cheaper than aftermarket options, but consumers typically have the same ‘stealership’ attitude Motronic is displaying. I would say just don’t discount them automatically without checking. Aside from specialty fluid, most of our fluid is just brand name stuff like our 80w90 is Pennzoil, etc I owned a Vibe for a number of years, and when I needed a replacement part I checked both Pontiac/GM and Toyota. It was a crap shoot who was cheaper, and my experience in the industry suggests the fastest moving parts have the best pricing due to supply and demand. Super uncommon parts are usually ridiculous, but also unavailable in the aftermarket. Think fold-down seat latches and armrests.
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Dec 25, 2021 15:02
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mobby_6kl posted:Well yeah you can use weight per horsepower (or vice versa) which is the common way people talk about this stuff. bird with big dick posted:Power to weight ratio, sometimes stated in hp/lb but usually more usefully as hp/ton. I think I'm just surprised this is never mentioned in marketing/as a selling point. But performance being dependent on a variety of other factors might explain that.
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Dec 25, 2021 15:52
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busalover posted:I think I'm just surprised this is never mentioned in marketing/as a selling point. But performance being dependent on a variety of other factors might explain that. That's because the marketing is usually dumb as hell and does not aim to actually be informative. Like why do big truck ads go on about torque? It means next to nothing without knowing the details of the rest of the drivetrain. It's because it's a cool techno word that has a big number.
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Dec 25, 2021 17:53
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Emphasizing weight in marketing will make expensive add-ons that add weight and profit seem less desirable while making costly weight savings that eat into profits more desirable.
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Dec 25, 2021 17:57
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busalover posted:I think I'm just surprised this is never mentioned in marketing/as a selling point. It sometimes is, but only in high-performance sports cars where the ratio is good, and the potential buyers know that to get that number up they're going to have to give up squishy seats and sound damping and the 20 speaker stereo. A Lotus Elise has an excellent power-to-weight ratio, and is also an extremely uncomfortable car that half the American population won't even fit into.
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Dec 25, 2021 18:30
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alnilam posted:Our tires are getting close to replacement and the tire place quoted us for low, mid, and high tier tires. I'm just wondering what you get when you get nicer tires. I have no idea, I've never replaced car tires. Our use case is occasional commuting on city roads but mostly driving out to adventures in the PNW, including gravel forest service roads and snowy or blustery-rainy mountain passes. We do have chains for when the passes are snowy. What year, which trim, and which size wheel? Those sound like Les Schwab store brand. They might be alright but who knows. For your use case I'd recommend an "all-weather" category tire (has the 3 peak mountain symbol), like the Michelin Crossclimate2, or the cheaper Vredestein Quadrac Pro. If you give me the answers for the question I asked I can see what fits your car on tirerack.com. They'll get you through snow much better than most all season tires, although not as good as a dedicated winter tire (which I recommend having, but changing out tires twice a year for people not into cars is too much work usually). I haven't tested my CrossClimate 2s in snow yet, but maybe tomorrow or tonight... Anyways tires are the most important safety feature of your vehicle, so I recommend getting the best you can. edit: for example these are the all-seasons with the snow rating ("all weather") that tire rack has for a 2019 AWD with 17" wheels. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/Tire...=49560#allTitle edit 2: My bad, looks like it doesn't save all the search parameters in the URL like it used to. I selected "Severe Snow Service Rated" and "All season w/severe snow..." Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 18:53 on Dec 25, 2021 |
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Dec 25, 2021 18:47
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Charles posted:What year, which trim, and which size wheel? Thanks! Yeah it was indeed a Les Schwab quote. The shop is right by our house and they patched a screw in our tire for free so it would be nice to use them but I'll go elsewhere if it's really called for. Our car is a 2016 HRV uhhh EX. The lower trim level. The quote mentions 215/55R-17 94V in all three tire types so I'm guessing that indicates the size?
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Dec 25, 2021 19:34
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alnilam posted:Thanks! Yeah it was indeed a Les Schwab quote. The shop is right by our house and they patched a screw in our tire for free so it would be nice to use them but I'll go elsewhere if it's really called for. Yes thank you, that size is helpful! Les Schwab is good, I just dunno about their house brand -- they may be good, but it's hard to get quantitative tests. They can order any mainstream tire brand I'm sure. Looks like they do sell the Vredestein Quatrac Pro directly (their only "all weather" option), although the price is pretty high. It's probably worth it for good customer service and the fact the tire supply chain is pretty messed up instead of trying to cross-shop. Consumer Reports rates the Vredestein Quatrac Pro pretty well although the Michelin CrossClimate 2s are at the top spot, especially for hydroplaning and snow traction which would be nice for the PNW, especially the hydroplaning. So if they could order those, that'd be good. There is a 130mph and a 149mph version and I'm guessing you don't need the latter on a Honda HRV :P If you want second opinions we do have a tire thread here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3887596 And yeah, I don't know your budget, but again, recommend getting the best you can afford (and more expensive is not always better BTW).
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Dec 25, 2021 20:14
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alnilam posted:215/55R-17 94V Width in mm/ratio of sidewall to tire-wheel diameter. "94v" is load index/speed rating so that's a 215mm wide tire with a sidewall 55% that size that fits on a 17" wheel and is rated to handle ~1500lbs at ~150mph not saying to buy through them, but tire rack really does have *great* resources on what all this stuff means and the most stats on different tires that i've ever seen in one place
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Dec 25, 2021 20:40
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2008 infiniti g35x (AWD) sedan. Stupid question: when chaining up for severe road conditions, do the chains go on the rear or front? Allegedly the owners manual would tell me but it's long since gone and all I can find online are service manuals, which are usually more helpful, but not in this case apparently. my assumption is rear wheels mostly because the G35 is RWD?
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Dec 25, 2021 23:31
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I was able to find an owner's manual pretty easily. It says:quote:TIRE CHAINS https://ownersmanuals2.com/infiniti/g35-2008-owners-manual-52112
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Dec 26, 2021 00:10
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spankmeister posted:Maybe I'm getting my definitions mixed up but I always thought OEM was the manufacturer of the parts that the car maker uses.It stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer. "OEM" is also sometimes used to refer to the vehicle manufacturers themselves whereas suppliers are called "suppliers" or T1 (tier 1 - directly supplies), T2 (supplies the T1) and so on. Just an FYI. I can only speak to the parts we make but we're required to supply every production part for service for X years. On the aftermarket side, we try to consolidate parts to reduce the number of part numbers. It's easier to do with some parts than others. Regarding pricing of OES parts vs. AM - that is a somewhat complicated thing. When we sell to OES, our prices are generally predetermined by our production contract pricing. This is rarely very much (and certainly doesn't nearly approach the prices consumers are paying). On the AM side, we are better able to set our pricing, though of course they must remain competitive. AM retailers are likewise limited in the prices they can charge due to competition in the AM. So when it comes to OES pricing, you can blame the car companies. When it comes to AM pricing, you can generally blame the supplier/retailer. Don't know that it helps anyone or anything but there you go.
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Dec 26, 2021 03:52
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Thanks for the advice on the parts brands guys. I'll just use RockAuto as a reference for IDing OEM brands. Another question. Is there some sort of OBD2 scanner + Windows application that plugs into a laptop that gives you the same detailed diagnostics that an Autel MaxiPRO would give for diagnosing misfiring cylinders, fuel trims, and other potential problems? Something that plugs an OBD2 Scanner then USB into a laptop? Since I'll be shopping for a used vehicle shopping it'd be great if I could plug into the OBD2 and grab really detailed info using my laptop and without having to dish out $1000 on for a MaxiPRO. It would also be nice not to get hosed with by whichever sleazebag who claims "only owned by an old lady no need to examine the vehicle". Because my mechanic who I'd usually take the vehicle to for a PPI will likely be too far from the sellers' locations. Just don't know if such a device exists or if I'm stuck with having to buy a MaxiPRO. melon cat fucked around with this message at 06:28 on Dec 26, 2021 |
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Dec 26, 2021 05:50
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You’re not going to diagnose worn brake pads or blown shocks or a leaking oil pan from the OBD2 port, it is in no way even partially a substitute for a PPI.
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Dec 26, 2021 13:40
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2014 Mercedes C300 (w204) Need to replace a burned out lowbeam How do I make sure that the single replacement bulb that I'm getting is the same color temperature as OEM? And on that note is it worth replacing both bulbs with something moderately better if it's not a pricey upgrade? I don't really know much about headlight bulb technology but fortunately replacing bulbs in this particular car is dead simple so I wouldn't mind knocking out both of them just so the age of the bulb is the same.
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Dec 26, 2021 13:42
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bird with big dick posted:You’re not going to diagnose worn brake pads or blown shocks or a leaking oil pan from the OBD2 port, it is in no way even partially a substitute for a PPI.
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Dec 26, 2021 14:40
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Bit of an odd one since I don't have any experience what so ever with tractors, but found an ad for a $1800 Fordson Power Major with a front loader. I was thinking that it could be useful for hauling things around the house, do some shoveling and general heavy lifting for the upcoming renovations.  It's only a few miles away, so could drive it home. Sellers says everything works and it was new tyres and hoses at the back. How much would that front loader actually be able to do when it comes to "digging", or shoveling rather? I have tons of Cherry trees that need sawing down and being pulled away, a courtyard that needs redoing and probably some dirt that needs shifting around the house. Tree stumps that need pulling. Lifting stuff with that big rear end loader would be nice as well. Not to mention getting attachment to mow the meadow properly. Or am I just going to ruin myself with a money pit?
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Dec 26, 2021 15:33
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cr0y posted:2014 Mercedes C300 (w204) I generally replace them in pairs, as the other one likely will burn out soon. Also, they dim as they age so would be uneven if unmatched. Is the color temperature just standard halogen? If so, don't get a bulb with a blue tint on it. I don't know of any other method to change the color temperature with a halogen bulb.
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Dec 26, 2021 17:14
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If it runs fine and the hydraulics work is should be cheap to keep in that condition. Feasibility for a rotary mower is gonna depend on the hitch on the back of it. How much digging you can do depends on the soil and that bucket. Can't see the cutting edge in the picture so there's no saying if it's a mulch bucket (straight blade) or a digging bucket (toothed blade). You can add a tooth bar to a mulch bucket and have both. Some machines have quick attach systems on the buckets, but that looks too old to have one, and even if it does it's too old to have the now pretty universal skid steer quick attach style that would make it easy/cheap to find other buckets. You're not likely to be pulling out any stumps with that thing. You also aren't digging much with it, even with a tooth bucket. Those are mini excavator jobs. Loaders are for.....well, loading. And spreading material. While you can tilt the cutting edge down far enough to dig, it's not gonna be a whole lot and obviously the entire width of that huge bucket. Tractors are great swiss army knife machines. They are mediocre at everything other than pulling. If you're trying to do digging work the golden combo is a mini ex and a tracked skid loader. I get away with a miniex and a tractor because I need the 3 point hitch for a bunch of stuff (mowing, grading) and use it for plowing. I could PROBABLY get away with doing all of those things with a skid steer with high flow hydraulics, but the attachments would be a lot more expensive. The tractor still makes a mediocre to poor loader at best, but since I don't do a lot of that kind of work it's good enough.
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Dec 26, 2021 17:23
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Old Motronic had a farm, m-o-t-r-o
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Dec 26, 2021 18:10
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Motronic posted:Good stuff Thanks, exactly the kind of information I needed to steer me away. The price difference to step up to miniex etc is huge here, so I'll think I'll rent one for a couple of days when the need arises as it'll never pay for itself. The only real nice thing would be to use the loader for lifting stuff based on your outline of what real world uses there are, and even then it'll not be that many times.
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Dec 26, 2021 18:49
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MrOnBicycle posted:Thanks, exactly the kind of information I needed to steer me away. The price difference to step up to miniex etc is huge here, so I'll think I'll rent one for a couple of days when the need arises as it'll never pay for itself. The only real nice thing would be to use the loader for lifting stuff based on your outline of what real world uses there are, and even then it'll not be that many times. Probably the right decision. Also, don't know how much property you've got or how big that areas are the you'll be working in, but that appears to be a utility tractor, like a full sized one. They are quite big for doing anything that isn't on like a commercial/farm scale. I've got the size down from that, a compact utility. And even it can be somewhat of a pain in the rear end because it's got a cab which makes it cumbersome..........but I've spent too much of my life plowing/mowing on open station tractors to give up a cab with heat and AC now, so it will stay.
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Dec 26, 2021 19:06
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alnilam posted:Thanks! Yeah it was indeed a Les Schwab quote. The shop is right by our house and they patched a screw in our tire for free so it would be nice to use them but I'll go elsewhere if it's really called for. OK, got to try out the CrossClimate 2 in snow. I'd say ice is its weakness. Can get through powder but if you come to a stop on a hill it's game over. I have a 2wd car though. And no ability to put it in high gear so it gets 200ft lbs of torque instantaneously which is suboptimal.
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Dec 26, 2021 19:10
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Is there any brand of washer fluid that's way better than the others, or is it all the same stuff generally? Edit: also, with a little practice and Eco mode turned on, the CrossClimate 2s did well. Way better than many other cars out there.
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Dec 26, 2021 22:20
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Rain X ruined the fluid level sensor in my old GTI, so I never buy that brand. Otherwise, I've not had any issues with fluid as long as it's rated to -30°F (I've had some -20°F fluid slush up).
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Dec 26, 2021 22:33
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Ooh I bought rainx -30 but I checked to make sure it's not the kind with the actual rainx stuff. Just making sure that there wasn't some hidden secret but I figured they're all made of the same stuff.
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Dec 27, 2021 00:28
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Charles posted:Ooh I bought rainx -30 but I checked to make sure it's not the kind with the actual rainx stuff. Several people have complained of level sensor damage to pain damage with rainx. I don't doubt their stories, but do understand the poo poo wouldn't be on the shelves if that was typical or normal. I find it does a very good job and I've never had an issue with it in many years of running it in many vehicles. I'm guessing the higher soap content (and orange dye) is what's causing some people problems.
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Dec 27, 2021 00:33
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I expect it's related to the level sensor design on VAG cars. I don't go near it personally.
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Dec 27, 2021 01:41
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VelociBacon posted:I expect it's related to the level sensor design on VAG cars. I don't go near it personally. It's been in my cayenne for 5 years. I don't know for sure, but I'm guessing they all use the same Bosch junk.
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Dec 27, 2021 01:54
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If the Rain-X windshield fluid genuinely contains the same compound they use in the window treatments, that is a silicone oil, and I could imagine how that might gradually gently caress up certain types of sensors (e.g. capacitive ones perhaps). Fortunately my car doesn't have a fluid level sensor.
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Dec 27, 2021 05:31
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Years ago I switched to using tablets instead of buying premade, and now I've switched again to concentrate. This stuff seems to work well: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NZFCRW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_A5ZA04DJMRVJ6Z113QWT
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Dec 27, 2021 06:09
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KRISTALL KLAR
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Dec 27, 2021 06:24
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Motronic posted:Several people have complained of level sensor damage to pain damage with rainx. I don't doubt their stories, but do understand the poo poo wouldn't be on the shelves if that was typical or normal. I find it does a very good job and I've never had an issue with it in many years of running it in many vehicles. I'm guessing it's the rain repellent which is a silicone polymer. When I used it, it would always leave waxy stuff by the nozzles. I got the bottle without it, as I use Aquapel for rain repellent instead.
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Dec 27, 2021 06:34
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Yeah I just apply aquapel once a year and don't think about the fluid at all. It's good.
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Dec 27, 2021 11:38
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I just had my washer lines freeze up because I was procrastinating in putting in the winter stuff. 
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Dec 27, 2021 11:55
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spankmeister posted:I just had my washer lines freeze up because I was procrastinating in putting in the winter stuff. That happened to me my first winter in Chicago. I waited for a semi-warm-ish day, bought a jug of the low temp stuff, drove on the highway long enough to get my engine bay nice and toasty, and then put as much of the low temp stuff into my washer fluid reservoir as I could while spraying the washer fluid to flush out my lines.
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Dec 27, 2021 15:42
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Motronic posted:Probably the right decision. Also, don't know how much property you've got or how big that areas are the you'll be working in, but that appears to be a utility tractor, like a full sized one. They are quite big for doing anything that isn't on like a commercial/farm scale. I've got the size down from that, a compact utility. And even it can be somewhat of a pain in the rear end because it's got a cab which makes it cumbersome..........but I've spent too much of my life plowing/mowing on open station tractors to give up a cab with heat and AC now, so it will stay. Yeah the property is nowhere near enough big enough for that tractor. Come to think of it, I've got neighbors with big tractors that can help as well. 
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Dec 27, 2021 19:18
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