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GreenBuckanneer posted:It's hard not to look at this and tell the anxiety demon that says "you'll never be good enough to do this" to shut the gently caress up Tell yourself its impressionist art, works for me
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Dec 27, 2021 04:06
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  Two test models today. Currently all of the stormtroopers are airbrushed to this level, so now I just need to do the black which goes pretty quick, and then highlight the white which takes a fairly long time. The speeder bike also took a fair amount of time because I didn't really know what the scheme was. I kept finding new details that I missed or that weren't correct, but this is what the final product will look like for the squad.
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Dec 27, 2021 05:16
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Revelation 2-13 posted:That’s looks great. How are the edge highlights done on the walker? They’re like unbelievably consistent. Pencil? Dry brush? Edge of brush? Regardless, super well done. If you look closely, yeah, it's an edge highlight. If you look at the whole thing, it's just a 5m combat walker scaled down to tabletop size, lighting and all. drat well done, well on the way to photoreal in a miniature.
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Dec 27, 2021 09:39
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Finished painting some piles of Nurglings.
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Dec 27, 2021 14:26
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Verisimilidude posted:
Your stuff is fantastic. I hope to someday achieve this level of excellence. Your lighting/shadows in particular are superb. Do you work off of photos/stills/art or do you work with zenithal highlighting or some completely different method (e.g. "I see the light in my brain and just follow its instructions")?
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Dec 27, 2021 15:46
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Refind Chaos posted:Your stuff is fantastic. I hope to someday achieve this level of excellence. Your lighting/shadows in particular are superb. Do you work off of photos/stills/art or do you work with zenithal highlighting or some completely different method (e.g. "I see the light in my brain and just follow its instructions")? Thanks for the compliments! I establish all of my volumes with an airbrush and I've been working a lot on improving my zenithal highlighting. I've recently started adding undertones with different colors shot from opposite of the direction of the zenithal light. It helps build out volumes more and make the model look more 3-dimensional, which for something that is 90% one color can really help make the end result nicer to look at. It also makes mono-color models look more visually interesting and saves a tremendous amount of time on laying down basecoats, especially on models that are mostly one color. I managed to establish the white (with volumes) on 14 storm troopers and 2 speeder bike riders in about an hour using this method, so now all I need to do is block in the black, highlight it, and do edge highlights with white ink.
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Dec 27, 2021 17:06
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Anyone had issues with minis just not waiting to take primer? I needed a break from what I’ve been working on so I cracked open the bloodborne game I’d been gift a while ago and started priming the models. They did not like it. I was airbrushing Stynylrez and it just dropped on top the model like big dots and wouldn’t flow. I thought maybe it was the primer or the brush so I changed brushes, shook them primer even harder, and added flow improver. Same issue. The primer landed on the model and just stuck there and clumped. I grabbed some other minis I needed to prime to test the issue and had no problem. Nice even prime with no clumping. I literally could not get the Bloodborne minis to accept airbrushed primer without clumping. I tried a rattle can instead and it went in with no issue. Weirdest experience I’ve had trying to prime a model. Anyone know what could have caused those specific minis to not take the primer well?
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Dec 27, 2021 17:32
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did you wash the mini before priming? sometimes release agent sticks around from when the mini was cast in its mould, and prevents anything from adhering to them
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Dec 27, 2021 17:35
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Verisimilidude posted:Thanks for the compliments! I establish all of my volumes with an airbrush and I've been working a lot on improving my zenithal highlighting. I've recently started adding undertones with different colors shot from opposite of the direction of the zenithal light. It helps build out volumes more and make the model look more 3-dimensional, which for something that is 90% one color can really help make the end result nicer to look at. It also makes mono-color models look more visually interesting and saves a tremendous amount of time on laying down basecoats, especially on models that are mostly one color. I managed to establish the white (with volumes) on 14 storm troopers and 2 speeder bike riders in about an hour using this method, so now all I need to do is block in the black, highlight it, and do edge highlights with white ink. Oh interesting, a nadir shadowing... That's a really great idea. Also that is an amazingly quick turn around for a group that large, and here I thought I was doing alright with ~1.5 hours per figure. I just started learning to use an airbrush so once I get more comfortable with it I will likely give this a try. Thanks a lot for the detail explanation of how you achieve your results!
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Dec 27, 2021 17:55
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Did my first freehand to complete my Portabello Platoon Poxwalker command section! There's some obvious rough edges, like making the banner too dark to function as a banner in the first place, but that's learning experiences for you. I'll be able to base all ten tomorrow and this project will finally be complete. I even have some airbrush spider serum that makes convincing 35mm webs, so hopefully I can mix that with a little color and really spook up the bases.   
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Dec 27, 2021 18:31
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jesus WEP posted:did you wash the mini before priming? sometimes release agent sticks around from when the mini was cast in its mould, and prevents anything from adhering to them Seems to be the issue. I normally wash but I hadn’t done that for this box. Quick wash and things are sticking properly. Thanks!
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Dec 27, 2021 19:00
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Dr. Red Ranger posted:Did my first freehand to complete my Portabello Platoon Poxwalker command section! There's some obvious rough edges, like making the banner too dark to function as a banner in the first place, but that's learning experiences for you. I'll be able to base all ten tomorrow and this project will finally be complete. I even have some airbrush spider serum that makes convincing 35mm webs, so hopefully I can mix that with a little color and really spook up the bases. i am digging the colors you used for the bones! can you tell me what you used?
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Dec 27, 2021 21:26
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Darth Vader and some WIP stormtroopers for today! 
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Dec 28, 2021 01:39
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I got a 3D printer last month and finally got around to painting something I printed with it.
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Dec 28, 2021 02:35
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Verisimilidude posted:Darth Vader and some WIP stormtroopers for today! man i can never get the facial details on storms right, they always end up looking like clowns
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Dec 28, 2021 04:42
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Nebalebadingdong posted:i am digging the colors you used for the bones! can you tell me what you used? Thanks! It's just Naggaroth Night base, then thin coats of Mephiston Red and Trollslayer Orange, and a Flash Git Yellow highlight. It works a little better with 50/50 intermediate shades but it almost looks like decaying near-skeletons with orange-black bits of flesh still adhered so I wanted to do it to a whole unit.
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Dec 28, 2021 05:01
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StashAugustine posted:man i can never get the facial details on storms right, they always end up looking like clowns Krennic: Are we blind?! SEND IN THE CLOWNS!
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Dec 28, 2021 05:56
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Verisimilidude posted:Darth Vader and some WIP stormtroopers for today! That's some dank OSL on vader my dude
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Dec 28, 2021 16:58
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10mm grab bag of random minis  halfling from Warp Miniatures   stormvermin from Ankylo Miniatures   wood elf from Forest Dragon   zombie from Forest Dragon  
Nebalebadingdong fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Dec 28, 2021 |
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Dec 28, 2021 23:10
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i think youve answered before but what brush do you use at that scale?
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Dec 28, 2021 23:36
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Nebalebadingdong posted:10mm grab bag of random minis Do you paint under a binocular microscope or something because wtf
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Dec 28, 2021 23:44
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i've tried visual aids, but they hinder more than they help. they're just smaller than what folks are used to painting, they're not actually that hard if you have a good brush! occasionally i go back to 28mm and its like painting giants. just huge areas of bare, boring surface punishedkissinger posted:i think youve answered before but what brush do you use at that scale? i use a series 7 size 0. size isn't really as important as being to maintain a good pointed tip
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Dec 28, 2021 23:54
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So, odd question - Anyone now a source for 28mm flintlock muskets or customizable Napoleonic minis? 3D printing is fine, maybe even preferred. I'm looking to get into The Silver Bayonet and I already have Anvil Industries Vampire Hunters. While I'm sure I can make the drum-mag crossbows work, I'm hoping I can get some muskets to put on them or to differentiate a rifleman or something. Edit: Also maybe shakos?
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Dec 29, 2021 00:26
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Nebalebadingdong posted:i've tried visual aids, but they hinder more than they help. they're just smaller than what folks are used to painting, they're not actually that hard if you have a good brush! What do you even use these for, you know, other than painting.
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Dec 29, 2021 01:59
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Saga: Age of Magic theoretically anyway, im not actively playing any tabletop games at the moment, but hope to this year
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Dec 29, 2021 02:19
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Nebalebadingdong posted:Saga: Age of Magic Not many days left, better hurry  I have some I think 15mm scifi gifted to me by a friend over 2 years ago now. Maybe I should paint them just to get an idea about these little things.
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Dec 29, 2021 03:00
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 Finished the stormtroopers! Just gotta finish one more speeder bike and I'm done with the empire half of the Star Wars Legion starter set.
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Dec 29, 2021 04:22
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Got a process question for you amazing artists. For painting a camouflage cloak, do you paint the camo pattern before or after you do the shadows and highlights? I'm thinking of putting the camo pattern on, then do the shading and highlights, since light reflections would obscure the pattern on the cloak. Any thoughts?
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Dec 29, 2021 19:47
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Paint the pattern, then hit it with a wash. You shouldn't need to highlight it, but you can go over the raised areas in the original color and it'll look good.
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Dec 29, 2021 20:03
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Funzo posted:Got a process question for you amazing artists. For painting a camouflage cloak, do you paint the camo pattern before or after you do the shadows and highlights? I'm thinking of putting the camo pattern on, then do the shading and highlights, since light reflections would obscure the pattern on the cloak. Any thoughts? For my Fallschirmjägers I painted the "base" colour of the camo (grey/beige) and washed it brown, then re-applied the colour including highlights. Then I applied the secondary colour (green) on top of it, and higlighted it. Then I applied the tertiary colour (brown) andh ighlighted it. It's a bit of extra work but it helps making the colours tie into each other. 
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Dec 29, 2021 20:40
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Darren Latham had a good video on it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4vJQlrGv_Y&t=852s Build up a recess glaze darker than your darkest camo color, then a highlight glaze lighter than your lightest color. If you build up the glaze layers instead of just washing, you can vary the brightness and darkness depending on how high or deep the fold or wrinkle is.
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Dec 29, 2021 22:24
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Loden Taylor posted:Darren Latham had a good video on it: That's pretty much exactly what I had in mind to try out. Good to know I'm not way off in my thinking.
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Dec 29, 2021 23:24
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I have some Vallejo acrylic/polyurethane surface primer, should it be thinned or go on straight out of the bottle? It's a bit wet and chilly for spray primer today. this would be for wh40k plastic minis
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Dec 29, 2021 23:25
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Loden Taylor posted:Darren Latham had a good video on it: Not_Darren_Latham has made all his videos "content made for kids" so they can't even be saved to playlists or anything. WTF.
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Dec 30, 2021 03:09
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AndyElusive posted:Not_Darren_Latham has made all his videos "content made for kids" so they can't even be saved to playlists or anything. WTF. That's a youtube fuckup, they are pulling a lot of bullshit again.
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Dec 30, 2021 03:48
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Filthy Hans posted:I have some Vallejo acrylic/polyurethane surface primer, should it be thinned or go on straight out of the bottle? It's a bit wet and chilly for spray primer today. Straight from the bottle, no thinning. Blow on any bubbles that form to pop them. If it peels or streaks its past its shelf life.
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Dec 30, 2021 05:07
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Did some stargrave for a friend. 
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Dec 30, 2021 07:22
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Filthy Hans posted:I have some Vallejo acrylic/polyurethane surface primer, should it be thinned or go on straight out of the bottle? It's a bit wet and chilly for spray primer today. VVV This VVV Cat Face Joe posted:Straight from the bottle, no thinning. Blow on any bubbles that form to pop them. If it peels or streaks its past its shelf life. I'd just add to make sure you rinse your brush before dipping it in the pot, and periodically during the priming. For reference I brush prime all my minis with Vallejo Primer.
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Dec 30, 2021 13:41
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Can I get an opinion on this airbrush? https://www.michaels.com/neo-cn-gravity-feed-dual-action-airbrush/10366604.html Thinking of pulling the trigger for 50 bux.
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Dec 30, 2021 14:12
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protomexican posted:Can I get an opinion on this airbrush? I've never used that airbrush, so take the following with that in mind (I started with a cheap masters brush, moved up to a Badger Patriot i got on sale and just added a second-hand Grex xGi3): I believe the manufacture of that model is outsourced to China to meet that price point. Whether that's worth it or not is up to you, but there seems to be a big gulf in quality between the neo and the eclipse. If you're upgrading your starter airbrush, you may want to hold out for a good deal on a nicer quality piece of kit. If you're going to need to shell out for a compressor anyway, just get one that comes with a gravity feed brush in the box.
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Dec 30, 2021 14:40
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