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Vorenus
Jul 14, 2013

Blue Footed Booby posted:

Metal, resin, your fingers

CA glue is great for bonding photoetch to anything and everything but the part you actually want to glue it to. I still dry heave when I think about the ball-and-chain assemblies from my last project.

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punishedkissinger
Sep 20, 2017

Bloody Hedgehog posted:

No. They're not actually glass like the real thing, just plastic you can cut with anything.

Not familiar with the company though. If I need a lighting kit, I've typically gone with something from Voodoo FX.

The nautilus lighting kit and instructions i got from them were excellent.

Midjack
Dec 24, 2007



the paradigm shift posted:

so if I have tamiya cement what do I need CA glue for?

Teeny tiny parts where you can't exert pressure to make a good cement weld.

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

Vorenus posted:

CA glue is great for bonding photoetch to anything and everything but the part you actually want to glue it to. I still dry heave when I think about the ball-and-chain assemblies from my last project.

Yeah, it's absolutely horrible to work with. I will do anything, including solder pins to PE bits, to avoid having to deal with that frustration.

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something
CA - "I can stick anything to anything!"
Me - "Okay, stick these two bits together."
CA - "Well I don't wanna do it now that you asked me."

Raskolnikov38
Mar 3, 2007

We were somewhere around Manila when the drugs began to take hold
the amount of times that CA has abandoned its dry instantly for "dries whenever it feels like it" is infuriating

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
I’ve mostly stopped using ca for the most part in favor of mig ultra glue. It’s pva based but seems to hold things together well enough ime.

The Locator
Sep 12, 2004

Out here, everything hurts.





I hate CA glue even though I keep it on hand all the time.

It's much better at bonding my fingers to each other, or transplanting my fingerprints to a beautifully finished hull making me have to sand it down than actually bonding the parts I want bonded together.

For stuff that wood glue doesn't work on, I switched mostly to different speeds of 2-part epoxy once I finally found a brand that didn't have an overpowering odor that made me ill and permeated the entire house.

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

Bloody Hedgehog posted:

CA - "I can stick anything to anything!"
Me - "Okay, stick these two bits together."
CA - "Well I don't wanna do it now that you asked me."

So, CA means Cat Adhesive?

(Do not glue actual cats with CA glue. Especially without posting pics/videos.)

Vaporware
May 22, 2004

Still not here yet.

Pierzak posted:

So, CA means Cat Adhesive?

(Do not glue actual cats with CA glue. Especially without posting pics/videos.)

:hmmyes:

Suzaku
Feb 15, 2012

Pierzak posted:

So, CA means Cat Adhesive?

(Do not glue actual cats with CA glue. Especially without posting pics/videos.)

Carpal Adhesive.

Disgruntled Bovine
Jul 5, 2010

So I've finally started work on painting my first brass locomotive model. Getting a good gloss coat is harder than I expected. After several failures and much paint stripping I think the best method is to use a single action brush, grit blast but no primer, using Scalecoat 1 enamel paint thinned somewhere between 2:1 and 1:1 (paint:thinner). I'm going to try laying coverage with a lower paint flow, then finish with a high flow wet coat to bring out the gloss. That's definitely the hardest part, getting the balance between laying it down wet without putting on enough to get runs. I've been practicing on aluminum roof flashing sheets from home depot and I've managed pretty good results on those but I've had trouble reproducing those results on the model over primer. Advise from a brass locomotive painting group on Facebook seems to indicate Scalecoat 1 doesn't need primer and it's easier to get good results without it so I'm going to try that. I'll post results once I manage to do it properly.

I currently only have a double action airbrush (Iwata HP-CS) which I've got for weathering and I've been struggling to get consistent paint flow without just pulling all the way back which gives more flow than I want. I was going to get a Badger 200-NH for a single action brush but it's hard to find and I prefer gravity feed over suction feed for easier cleaning. I found the Iwata HP-M2, which is an odd stubby airbrush with a large gravity feed cup and 0.4 needle, and the only single action brush Iwata makes. It looks odd but it has the features I want and gets great reviews so I'm going to give it a try.

Disgruntled Bovine fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Dec 30, 2021

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

Pierzak posted:

So, CA means Cat Adhesive?

(Do not glue actual cats with CA glue. Especially without posting pics/videos.)
Ok, fair, but my job entails applying ca glue to cats, so you can see the bind this puts me in.

Symetrique
Jan 2, 2013




The hpcs is like a .35mm needle. The m2 isn’t that much different. If you’re having paint flow issues with the hpcs you’ll likely have them with the m2. You should try thinning your paint more, or keep slightly increasing your psi until you get consistent paint flow.

I have the creos procon sq, which is essentially the same as the iwata m2. It’s a great little airbrush but I wouldn’t say using it is easier than a double action. I primarily picked it up because it’s simple design makes it easy to clean after spraying metallics or primers.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
I am finally free of this goddamn tank.





It's a perfectly okay kit, I just picked it up at the worst possible time. I burned myself out in October and tried to keep going with this one, which was also a major pain in the rear end with the tracks and a lot of the fitment. The wretched thing's been on my bench since, but I forced myself to wrap it up and now I'm free.



You can actually see some of the detail on the kit itself, even if the texturing I put in is totally blotted out. Even taking pictures of this thing was like pulling teeth.



The functional suspension was not worth it. It's even more of a pain than crappy link-and-length, plus the rear and forward road wheels pull up thanks to the tension on the track, which you can't relax - you get exactly enough links to make one track of one length.

Year in review:


Minus a couple of planes, including my favorite model of the year, which I gifted to someone. It is possible to make too many tanks, as it turns out.

Chuck_D
Aug 25, 2003
I love CA and use it constantly. :colbert:

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




the paradigm shift posted:

so if I have tamiya cement what do I need CA glue for?

With cockpit and other detailed parts, I paint first, then glue. CA is what you want for this. It beats scraping paint off of surfaces to be glued on tiny parts.

It is also handy to reglue landing gear when your dumb rear end cat jumps on on your modeling table and lands on your plane and breaks the landing gear off.

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug

grassy gnoll posted:

Year in review:


Minus a couple of planes, including my favorite model of the year, which I gifted to someone. It is possible to make too many tanks, as it turns out.

:hf: 2021 Jeep builder



can't say it was my best work though.

Disgruntled Bovine
Jul 5, 2010

Symetrique posted:

The hpcs is like a .35mm needle. The m2 isn’t that much different. If you’re having paint flow issues with the hpcs you’ll likely have them with the m2. You should try thinning your paint more, or keep slightly increasing your psi until you get consistent paint flow.

I have the creos procon sq, which is essentially the same as the iwata m2. It’s a great little airbrush but I wouldn’t say using it is easier than a double action. I primarily picked it up because it’s simple design makes it easy to clean after spraying metallics or primers.

Sorry, when I said I had trouble getting consistent paint flow I meant I have difficulty applying the same amount of paint flow repeatably with a double action brush. I can't quickly stop and restart paint flow repeatably at the same rate.

Symetrique
Jan 2, 2013




Disgruntled Bovine posted:

Sorry, when I said I had trouble getting consistent paint flow I meant I have difficulty applying the same amount of paint flow repeatably with a double action brush. I can't quickly stop and restart paint flow repeatably at the same rate.

Ah gotcha. In that case, you might want to consider getting a preset handle for your hpcs if you dont want to commit to an additional airbrush.

Single actions like the M2 still require you to fiddle with the needle adjustment screw at the back. Once you get them dialed in its pretty consistent though. Just remember to start spraying away from what youre painting to avoid an initial splatter. If you dont adjust the needle back to the fully closed position, paint can pool near the tip and splatter when you start the airflow.

MyronMulch
Nov 12, 2006

Disgruntled Bovine posted:

Sorry, when I said I had trouble getting consistent paint flow I meant I have difficulty applying the same amount of paint flow repeatably with a double action brush. I can't quickly stop and restart paint flow repeatably at the same rate.

Instead of seating the needle fully forward before locking it down (and then having to pull back to get paint flow), can you pull it back a bit and then lock it down? That way you'll get paint flow as soon as you press the trigger.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010
A small update to finish the year. This model got stalled first by work getting really busy and then the summer weather being replaced by constant storms and drizzle for 6 weeks. That made getting the body panels clear coated rather difficult but yesterday was a good weather day and I cracked on with it as seen below:




I also made a new parts holder out of the cardboard that came in an ikea box and it seems to work fairly well.

Today was another good day weather wise so I managed to get the exhaust sprayed. Not generally being a builder of bikes I thought I'd give heat staining a go. For a first attempt I think it came out ok and am certainly happy with the results given most of it will be hidden under the body work on the final model. The process taken is shown below.









Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something
That's cool as hell! What was the tape masking off though on the exhausts?

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010

Bloody Hedgehog posted:

That's cool as hell! What was the tape masking off though on the exhausts?

A coat of x31 that I put down first cause the welds are a little more gold than the rest of the exhaust

tidal wave emulator
Aug 7, 2007

SkunkDuster posted:

With cockpit and other detailed parts, I paint first, then glue. CA is what you want for this. It beats scraping paint off of surfaces to be glued on tiny parts.

It is also handy to reglue landing gear when your dumb rear end cat jumps on on your modeling table and lands on your plane and breaks the landing gear off.

I've found for non-structural detail parts post-painting, and photo-etch etc I have mostly moved away from using CA and now use strong PVA like Ammo Mig's Ultra Glue. You get a lot more work-time than CA, it dries more flexibly and less brittle than CA and of course you don't run the risk of the CA 'blooming' and leaving a nasty white frost on your finished surface.

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010

tidal wave emulator posted:

I've found for non-structural detail parts post-painting, and photo-etch etc I have mostly moved away from using CA and now use strong PVA like Ammo Mig's Ultra Glue. You get a lot more work-time than CA, it dries more flexibly and less brittle than CA and of course you don't run the risk of the CA 'blooming' and leaving a nasty white frost on your finished surface.

I’m really liking that glue and it works very well ime.

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

Slugworth posted:

my job entails applying ca glue to cats

I now have additional questions.

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug

tidal wave emulator posted:

I've found for non-structural detail parts post-painting, and photo-etch etc I have mostly moved away from using CA and now use strong PVA like Ammo Mig's Ultra Glue. You get a lot more work-time than CA, it dries more flexibly and less brittle than CA and of course you don't run the risk of the CA 'blooming' and leaving a nasty white frost on your finished surface.

I should give it a shot. For structural PE I solder anyway.

MyronMulch
Nov 12, 2006

tidal wave emulator posted:

I've found for non-structural detail parts post-painting, and photo-etch etc I have mostly moved away from using CA and now use strong PVA like Ammo Mig's Ultra Glue. You get a lot more work-time than CA, it dries more flexibly and less brittle than CA and of course you don't run the risk of the CA 'blooming' and leaving a nasty white frost on your finished surface.

This stuff seems to be impossible to find in the US :-(

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
Mod Podge will dry clear and pretty dang strong. If you want to go fancy, you can also get undiluted PVA from bookbinder and archival suppliers for cheap, and it's the same stuff as the AK glue.

MyronMulch
Nov 12, 2006

grassy gnoll posted:

Mod Podge will dry clear and pretty dang strong. If you want to go fancy, you can also get undiluted PVA from bookbinder and archival suppliers for cheap, and it's the same stuff as the AK glue.

Good to know, thanks.

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

Pierzak posted:

I now have additional questions.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Vetbond-T...118807699&psc=1

Phy
Jun 27, 2008



Fun Shoe

Dr. Garbanzo posted:

A small update to finish the year. This model got stalled first by work getting really busy and then the summer weather being replaced by constant storms and drizzle for 6 weeks. That made getting the body panels clear coated rather difficult but yesterday was a good weather day and I cracked on with it as seen below:




I also made a new parts holder out of the cardboard that came in an ikea box and it seems to work fairly well.

Today was another good day weather wise so I managed to get the exhaust sprayed. Not generally being a builder of bikes I thought I'd give heat staining a go. For a first attempt I think it came out ok and am certainly happy with the results given most of it will be hidden under the body work on the final model. The process taken is shown below.











That's a darn good looking exhaust, honestly. And I didn't realize GP bikes had birdcages on the exhaust tip - I assume it's to catch large debris that gets barfed out of the engine, like if the valvetrain lets go?

Dr. Garbanzo
Sep 14, 2010

Phy posted:

That's a darn good looking exhaust, honestly. And I didn't realize GP bikes had birdcages on the exhaust tip - I assume it's to catch large debris that gets barfed out of the engine, like if the valvetrain lets go?

Thanks for the compliment. I'm guessing so and just double checked if the other manufacturers have the same set ups and they do. I'm tempted by the newly released tamiya suzuki motogp bike but don't like the extra winglets that got added to the bikes over the last few years

Charliegrs
Aug 10, 2009

SkunkDuster posted:

With cockpit and other detailed parts, I paint first, then glue. CA is what you want for this. It beats scraping paint off of surfaces to be glued on tiny parts.

It is also handy to reglue landing gear when your dumb rear end cat jumps on on your modeling table and lands on your plane and breaks the landing gear off.

Your cat wouldn't be able to do that if you CA glued his paws together.

Vaporware
May 22, 2004

Still not here yet.
Isn't a cage on the end normally to keep mice and such out of the nice safe tube while it's in storage?

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something
Got bored today, and started thinking about expanding my setup once again. I don't have a ton more supplies than the last time I revamped my work area, but I had a lot of stuff tucked away in drawers that I wanted to have closer on hand. Primarily all my basing supplies. So I expanded the left hand side of my area, expanding the single shelf riser I had on the desk to a 3 level riser.

A bit rough and ready, but suits me fine. Only about an hour of work too, so a small investment for lots more space. Still might do some tweaking, particularly to add in some insert shelves where this is empty space above/below the paint racks to further increase the storage areas.


grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
I covet your workspace.

Blue Footed Booby
Oct 4, 2006

got those happy feet

grassy gnoll posted:

I covet your workspace.

I was coveting the space to have that workspace then I remembered I have all my needs in walking distance and no yard to mow.

Still, those racks. :chanpop:

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Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




Bloody Hedgehog posted:

Got bored today, and started thinking about expanding my setup once again. I don't have a ton more supplies than the last time I revamped my work area, but I had a lot of stuff tucked away in drawers that I wanted to have closer on hand. Primarily all my basing supplies. So I expanded the left hand side of my area, expanding the single shelf riser I had on the desk to a 3 level riser.

A bit rough and ready, but suits me fine. Only about an hour of work too, so a small investment for lots more space. Still might do some tweaking, particularly to add in some insert shelves where this is empty space above/below the paint racks to further increase the storage areas.




I see a lot of diorama turf and stuff on the left shelf. I bought a bunch (but not that much) of stuff years and years ago but only ended up using a tiny little bit to make a base for a model. Do you have any pictures of dioramas you have made with that stuff?

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