|
Shifty Pony posted:My UPS is eight and a half years old (batteries are only two). Is it time to get a new one? They don't really wear out unless there's some specific problem you're having with yours that new batteries won't solve.
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2021 03:25
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 1, 2024 06:52 |
|
|
Rexxed posted:They don't really wear out unless there's some specific problem you're having with yours that new batteries won't solve. It has been run all the way down several times thanks to Texas and seemed to handle it ok but not great (recently only managed about 45 minutes of runtime for the router and fiber jack when it is rated for 1:50). I was just seeing some stuff online saying that eight to ten years is EOL for a consumer UPS because the capacitors and such degrade over time. Granted that was from UPS manufacturers...
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2021 03:38
|
|
|
I'm building a model diorama and want to add sound. To do that, I pulled one of these speakers out of an iPad 2. I'm not at all familiar with tablet/laptop speakers. I'm seeing what appears to be two speakers and 6 wires, which seems to be about two wires too many. Looking at the connector from the clip side up, the colors are GRY, BLK, BLK, BLK, N.C., GRY, BLK. I'm guessing the two grays are the signal and two of the blacks are the return, but I have no idea what the other two blacks are for. Can anybody tell me what wires go where please? Is there a hidden third speaker in there somewhere?
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2021 04:11
|
|
|
SkunkDuster posted:I'm building a model diorama and want to add sound. To do that, I pulled one of these speakers out of an iPad 2. I'm not at all familiar with tablet/laptop speakers. I'm seeing what appears to be two speakers and 6 wires, which seems to be about two wires too many. Looking at the connector from the clip side up, the colors are GRY, BLK, BLK, BLK, N.C., GRY, BLK. I'm guessing the two grays are the signal and two of the blacks are the return, but I have no idea what the other two blacks are for. I wonder if there's a preamp in there or something maybe.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2021 04:39
|
|
|
From this video it doesn't seem to be the case: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zjfucyv9CRc Maybe one or more of the black wires is a shield grounding connection. Here's a screenshot of the connections from the video:  Do you have a DMM that you could use to check continuity between pairs to figure out which black corresponds to which grey? I would guess that the black adjacent to each grey would be the return for each channel.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2021 04:51
|
|
|
If I'm getting a new computer with 2400 mhz ram, is it worth plugging in any of my 2133 mhz ram from the old computer or will the lower speed eliminate any gains from having more memory?
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2021 14:25
|
|
|
Depends on how much 2400mhz ram you have and what you're planning to do with it. If your needs all fit within that amount, there's not much point in adding the 2133mhz stuff. On the other hand, if your needs outstrip the 2400mhz RAM you'll notice a big difference from the added headroom and you're unlikely to see much of a difference from the overall speed being lower.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2021 14:39
|
|
|
Party Boat posted:Depends on how much 2400mhz ram you have and what you're planning to do with it. If your needs all fit within that amount, there's not much point in adding the 2133mhz stuff. Cool, thanks. I'll keep the old stuff anyway so I can plug it in later if it seems necessary, but it probably won't since I mostly use it for internet browsing and undemanding indie games.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2021 15:25
|
|
|
Shifty Pony posted:From this video it doesn't seem to be the case: You could be right on the shielding. It makes the most sense. Yes, I do have a DMM, just was hoping for a pinout in case there was something not so obvious going on. Is the long tube that goes up from the speakers used as a bass resonator?
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2021 19:42
|
|
|
Shyrka posted:If I'm getting a new computer with 2400 mhz ram, is it worth plugging in any of my 2133 mhz ram from the old computer or will the lower speed eliminate any gains from having more memory? Generally-speaking you want matched RAM, with some systems really needing it more than others. Mixing different speeds can work, but you would be sacrificing some performance and potentially reducing stability.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2021 08:34
|
|
|
I just got an 9700K for my setup, and need a quiet cooler that fits my mobo/case combo. I've got an MSI Z390M mATX motherboard in a Nanoxia Deep Silence 4 case - max height is 160mm. The standard recommendations I find - the Dark Rock Pro and the Noctua NH-D15, are both too tall for the case. Any other recommendations?
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2021 14:16
|
|
|
AfricanBootyShine posted:I just got an 9700K for my setup, and need a quiet cooler that fits my mobo/case combo. I've got an MSI Z390M mATX motherboard in a Nanoxia Deep Silence 4 case - max height is 160mm. Corsair AIO with as big a rad as you can fit in there.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2021 17:34
|
|
|
AfricanBootyShine posted:I just got an 9700K for my setup, and need a quiet cooler that fits my mobo/case combo. I've got an MSI Z390M mATX motherboard in a Nanoxia Deep Silence 4 case - max height is 160mm. The noctua u12S (the 12a also but it's more then you need) are 158mm tall so it should fit. The u12S is working for mild over clocking on my 12600k, with it drawing around 180watts, so it should be fine. I'm not sure what the 9700k draws though, if it's more or if you just want quieter the U12A is better. SSJ_naruto_2003 fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Dec 31, 2021 |
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2021 21:14
|
|
|
AfricanBootyShine posted:I just got an 9700K for my setup, and need a quiet cooler that fits my mobo/case combo. I've got an MSI Z390M mATX motherboard in a Nanoxia Deep Silence 4 case - max height is 160mm. Scythe Fuma 2. It's super quiet at max RPM while still being effective at cooling moderately high TDP CPUs like the 9700K. It's 155mm tall and has good memory clearance. And it's affordable at $60, too.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2021 22:51
|
|
|
Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:Scythe Fuma 2. It's super quiet at max RPM while still being effective at cooling moderately high TDP CPUs like the 9700K. It's 155mm tall and has good memory clearance. And it's affordable at $60, too. Oh poo poo, right, the only reason I didn't go with them is the super sold out lga1700 mounting device. Also I didn't realize it was that short wow
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2021 22:53
|
|
|
katkillad2 posted:I tried to see if the soundcard works in slot 3 without the capture card and it doesn't. Interestingly, there is an option in the bios for the onboard audio and when left on automatic it says that it will be disabled if a sound card is detected and the Realtek HD Audio disappears when I plug the sound card in. So somehow it's detecting a sound card and not detecting the sound card at the same time Just so nobody wastes their time on this, I finally figured it out. In one of the bios updates I found the note "Update PCIE routing to improve PCIE3 compatibility." After going to the new bios the sound card finally works. Though I'm not getting any audio from my TV with the optical input on the sound card. There's always loving something 
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2021 23:23
|
|
Tried enabling it instead of leaving it on automatic and the Realtek HD Audio stayed while the sound card was plugged in, but made no difference with getting the sound card to work. Tried resetting the bios and it made no difference. It does look like there is a bios update for this motherboard, but it didn't work when I tried to update it.
|
Is there a USB3 hub that's just way superior to the others or are they all the same? This is mostly for desktop laptop use
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2022 13:00
|
|
|
Built a PC this time last year with a 3070 build, put a seasonic 750 in it and other things, everything I went with came from the PC building thread here, I don't post much you could probably find the exact specs if you glanced hard enough. Anyways sat down and turned on the pc today picture below is what my desktop loaded in to looking like. I figured it was obviously not right so I rebooted the pc and it came back where everything looked normal, except maybe a minute or two when getting to desktop (not running any games or programs) i heard a slight.. uhh.. 'fizzing' sound coming from the PC, it sounded to be located more closely to where the PSU is. Basically I turned off the PC, disconnected everything and put it aside and pulled out my ancient 970 build unit which I'm using now. So I guess just it sounds like the PSU or would the fizzing could have came from the GPU as well? I guess my best bet would be to get a new PSU unit and swap it out and see if that fixes it, I'll probably RMA the old one and whenever/whatever they send as a replacement I'll probably sell on SA mart unopened for like 20 bucks cheaper. Kinda bummed, but really hoping it's not the GPU.
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2022 18:29
|
|
|
Before you do anything drastic, try reseating the gpu and also psu’s cables. Might be worth taking a look at event viewer as well.
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2022 18:48
|
|
|
iroguebot posted:Built a PC this time last year with a 3070 build, put a seasonic 750 in it and other things, everything I went with came from the PC building thread here, I don't post much you could probably find the exact specs if you glanced hard enough. Reseat\swap your monitor cables too. Maybe also the video card. Steve Yun posted:Is there a USB3 hub that's just way superior to the others or are they all the same? This is mostly for desktop laptop use More input. What are you using it with? What are your requirements? Do you understand USB 3.0, 3.1, C, Thunderbolt?
|
|
#
?
Jan 2, 2022 22:45
|
|
|
iroguebot posted:Built a PC this time last year with a 3070 build, put a seasonic 750 in it and other things, everything I went with came from the PC building thread here, I don't post much you could probably find the exact specs if you glanced hard enough. A fizzing sound could be anything but with the issue you're having it might be a capacitor or more than one ejecting its electrolyte. If you can see any on the motherboard or video card that have the cross on the top split open (and likely some goo in the area) that may be an issue. It could be other things, but power problems are often just caps going bad.
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2022 02:22
|
|
|
Will I lose any performance if I put a SSD in a USB enclosure? Specifically looking at this one: 
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2022 17:52
|
|
|
Potentially a little bit, in practice I doubt you'd notice a difference, provided you're using it with USB 3 ports.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2022 18:05
|
|
|
Why is there a 1TB limit?
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2022 18:38
|
|
|
Whizzing Wizard posted:Will I lose any performance if I put a SSD in a USB enclosure? https://www.jeffgeerling.com/blog/2020/uasp-makes-raspberry-pi-4-disk-io-50-faster edit: Deltaco on their website only list their MAP-K104 enclosure as having UASP. The fact they do list it against one is evidence it's not supported on their other models, such as the one you listed. edit 2: A couple of examples that do have UASP, no recommendation implied. https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Enclosure-External-Housing-Laptop/dp/B07D2BHVBD/ https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sabrent-Custodia-Ottimizzato-Supporto-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S https://www.startech.com/en-gb/hdd/s2510bmu33 Pablo Bluth fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Jan 7, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2022 19:15
|
|
|
Pablo Bluth posted:One thing to look out for is UAS (also labelled as UASP) in regards to the USB enclosure. It's a better protocol that was introduced with USB3 but, given the dumpster fire that is the USB standard body, isn't mandatory. I believe support is far from universal and it's not always clearly labelled if enclosures and ports support it (frankly, if an ensure doesn't list it, I'd assume it doesn't) OK, thanks for the heads up. Amazon is not really an option where I live, so I'm at the mercy of whatever the local stores decide to import. Found a different case that was only slightly more expensive, the ICY BOX IB-235-C31. It has USB C and UASP according to the manual.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2022 20:44
|
|
|
So, i was picked in a newegg shuffle* on Friday and now i have a new 3070 card and psu on the way. Since my current psu is 600w i figure i'll actually use the one in the bundle, assuming that the new card needing at least 650 is accurate. Because i'm so new to this, i guess i don't know what to expect so i'm asking a few questions here The new psu is modular: will it be pretty obvious what set of wires goes where? Should i replace both things at the same time, or one after the other? Do i need to do anything with the gpu drivers? Going from a 3060 to 3070 What about afterburner? I'm currently using a very modest overclock, and also a custom fan curve, my gut tells me to turn it off entirely until everything is up and running. I'm both nervous and excited about diving in to this process so i might just be overthinking what it's going to be like *apparently at least two other goons were as well, what a strange coincidence. Maybe they had a lot of the things that day.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2022 20:09
|
|
|
a kitten posted:So, i was picked in a newegg shuffle* on Friday and now i have a new 3070 card and psu on the way. Since my current psu is 600w i figure i'll actually use the one in the bundle, assuming that the new card needing at least 650 is accurate.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2022 20:18
|
|
|
Ah perfect thank you! The current psu is not modular so everything is coming out and looking at the new one on the site all the port/plug things are clearly labeled so i bet it'll be easy. Probably the hardest part will be my messy self trying to do cable management (the pc is a prebuilt from newegg and everything was nicely ziptied down for me)LRADIKAL posted:Turn it off, and when you say overclocking, I hope you mean undervolting. I hit the overclock scanner button on afterburner and let it do it's thing after following some guide somewhere that seemed straightforward. I've heard the term undervolting but don't actually know anything about it. Perhaps i should learn though, buying this thing somehow flipped a switch in my brain from "guy who has a PC he likes playing games on" to "nascent PC enthusiast ". a kitten fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Jan 9, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2022 20:31
|
|
|
a kitten posted:
This is a pretty good guide for under volting https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FqpfYTi43TE I undervolted my 3080 and saved a lot of power while only dropping a few % of performance.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 02:32
|
|
|
The ethernet port on my Gigabyte B550i Motherboard keeps dropping connection. Usually in the span of 12-48 hours, I will come back to this computer and find 'No Internet'. WiFi will remain connected if set up, but the wired connection will no longer work. Unplugging/Replugging the cable on either end will cause the computer to connect again, as will disabling/re-enabling the Ethernet connection on the PC itself. I've tried two cables (a 50ft and a 100ft), one I can confirm works fine with other devices on the network. I have also tried two different ports on the router. always dropping connection between 12-48 hours. Any ideas goons? This is my first small-form-factor PC and I was concerned might be overheating in a way that doesn't show up on the sensors (HWInfo64 isn't showing anything that's alarming to me). But now I'm thinking it might be more likely that the port on the MOBO is borked.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 15:42
|
|
|
I think there was an issue on that exact board (cause I have it) with the 2.5GB NIC, I was able to resolve it by locking it at 1GB in the hardware properties. When it's left to autonegotiate I experienced that same behaviour.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 15:48
|
|
|
That's a bummer. Not so much for actual internet connectivity--I am capped at gigabit Fibe split between 5 comptuters--but I use this device as a home server of sorts. When you say 'I was able to resolve it by locking it at 1GB in the hardware properties', what do you mean? Ethernet -> Properties -> Configure -> Advanced -> 'EEE Max Support speed' ? Because Ironically mine seems to have defaulted to 1. Maybe I'll try 2.5. Edit: I think my router only supports up to 1000 anyways PoizenJam fucked around with this message at 16:03 on Jan 10, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 15:59
|
|
|
Also, sometimes ethernet ports just kinda crap out, apparently? When it happened on my MSI B450 Tomahawk Max that's what I was told in one of these threads, anyways I bought an ethernet to USB-C adapter and that works perfectly, though - just FYI if you can't fix it
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 16:09
|
|
|
PoizenJam posted:That's a bummer. Not so much for actual internet connectivity--I am capped at gigabit Fibe split between 5 comptuters--but I use this device as a home server of sorts. Find the NIC in device manager, go to the hardware properties and under "Speed and Duplex" set it to 1.0Gbps Full Duplex. When the board launched a bunch of people had issues with the NIC and Gigabyte support (in my ticket) recommended this, seemed to do the trick.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 16:40
|
|
|
Less Fat Luke posted:Find the NIC in device manager, go to the hardware properties and under "Speed and Duplex" set it to 1.0Gbps Full Duplex. When the board launched a bunch of people had issues with the NIC and Gigabyte support (in my ticket) recommended this, seemed to do the trick. I just set up a system on an ASUS B550-F with the same NIC chipset. I can't even get the driver installed, gonna go from Windows 10 LTSB (1607) to a newer version and see if that fixes it. Sort of wish I'd have gone with a different model, it's kind of terrible that there's driver issues with an intel nic.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 19:13
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:I just set up a system on an ASUS B550-F with the same NIC chipset. I can't even get the driver installed, gonna go from Windows 10 LTSB (1607) to a newer version and see if that fixes it. Sort of wish I'd have gone with a different model, it's kind of terrible that there's driver issues with an intel nic.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 19:18
|
|
|
Less Fat Luke posted:Yeah tell me about it, I bought that and an ASUS B550 board at the same time for two different builds and not only did I have this network interface bullshit to deal with but both had endless issues with USB device disconnects, I have *hundreds* of emails with Gigabyte, Asus and AMD support and dozens of beta BIOSes. It's fixed now but... goddamn. I have working ethernet now but I did have to get to a newer version of 10 just for the driver to start working. My other system was an MSI B450M that just worked and this ASUS B550-F felt like a bit of a downgrade in that one respect. It's working now at least.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 21:11
|
|
|
What resources are there to see if older hardware might run a game? I’d like to play MS Flight Simulator, but my only PC is a low spec plex server I built from parts off eBay. I have an R9 270x, and I’m wondering if the combination of that and a Xeon x5690 might give me passable results.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 22:09
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 1, 2024 06:52 |
|
|
Go to youtube. Type the name of the hardware in question in the search bar. Type the name of the game after it. Push enter. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_pOGf8_qv4o
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2022 22:15
|
|