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PageMaster posted:Can stucco be repaired by a handyman or is it a specialty for only a contractor? Get some spray foam, spray from the inside out if possible (if not, no biggie, outside-in is fine, just may make a mess depending). Wait until it dries and cut the extra off. Use a knife or digging tool to blend textures and paint. No need for outside support for that one.
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Jan 1, 2022 14:50
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I’ve got a GE front loader and the cycle time is longer than on a top loader, but you make it up with a much shorter drying time, especially for non-bulky fabrics
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Jan 1, 2022 14:53
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Why does a front loader result in shorter drying times?
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Jan 1, 2022 15:02
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Happiness Commando posted:Why does a front loader result in shorter drying times? faster spin cycle I guess? The clothes have less water in them when I put them in the dryer so there’s less to dry
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Jan 1, 2022 15:13
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Happiness Commando posted:Why does a front loader result in shorter drying times? Front loaders spin 30 to 60% faster at the end of the cycle, so they come out much less wet
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Jan 1, 2022 16:45
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I too have noticed the significant difference in wetness. After having experienced both, I think I am solidly in camp front loader. I know this will be an inexorable debate but the clothes feel cleaner at the end of it all to me. I have a nice matching stacked set of Samsung (front load washer, gas dryer) from my place’s PO FWIW. It plays a classical chip tune at the end of each cycle. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Jan 1, 2022 |
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Jan 1, 2022 20:04
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Vim Fuego posted:I'd go Speed Queen, it seems worth the upfront cost to not have to deal with service calls. Wirecutter talked to a speed queen dealer who claimed he had the same rate of service calls for speed queens as other washers
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Jan 3, 2022 17:38
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Does anyone know what this type of shower is called? I always just consider it 'european' since it has the bar and adjustable sprayer. I'm trying to find something from a reputable manufacturer but having issues finding one that: 1) includes the handle and valve (kohler / detla all seem to be a la carte to make the entire thing, like this american standard one that doesnt include the handle 2) handle and valve are integrated into it as this one is (one less hole in the wall and cleaner look) 3) I dont absolutely need the overhead shower but seems good for resale value as one can generally toggle between them Edit: is "Hansgrohe" a real brand? I've never heard of it, has good reviews, made in Germany and not china? https://www.wayfair.com/home-improvement/pdp/hansgrohe-croma-220-thermostatic-shower-faucet-han3652.html 
falz fucked around with this message at 18:29 on Jan 3, 2022 |
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Jan 3, 2022 18:10
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falz posted:Does anyone know what this type of shower is called? I always just consider it 'european' since it has the bar and adjustable sprayer. I'm trying to find something from a reputable manufacturer but having issues finding one that: It's generally called a rainfall shower from my experience, although I don't know if there's a more specific term.
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Jan 3, 2022 18:49
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falz posted:Does anyone know what this type of shower is called? I always just consider it 'european' since it has the bar and adjustable sprayer. I'm trying to find something from a reputable manufacturer but having issues finding one that: They are hard to search for because there is no single name for them. 'retrofit' is a common term, but it won't catch everything. Especially with systems that you can mix and match parts from. The easiest way to do it is make a list of vendors and then look through their catalogs instead of their distributors websites. Hansgrohe is a real brand.
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Jan 3, 2022 18:55
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Thanks, I think I'll just get something from that brand as they have the right stuff. To be clear my search for we the rainfall shower head part is the least important, the bar and handheld washer (which usually is also the real showerhead) most important. Thanks!
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Jan 3, 2022 20:13
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falz posted:Does anyone know what this type of shower is called? Ferguson has a really good filter. https://www.build.com/shower-systems/c108789?facets=68181:Exposed%20Pipe appears to get what you're after.
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Jan 3, 2022 21:16
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So, I'm starting to think logistics and begin planning on my baseboard trim project. It will probably turn into a "baseboard, chair rail, and door" trim project, but I'll  My first dumb question - are there specific instances to use/not use a specific adhesive/fastener? Basically I'm wondering, is using only adhesive a good/bad idea? Or is using only finishing nails a good/bad idea?
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Jan 3, 2022 21:37
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Johnny Truant posted:So, I'm starting to think logistics and begin planning on my baseboard trim project. It will probably turn into a "baseboard, chair rail, and door" trim project, but I'll Baseboards and stuff are no fun. Cope inside corners. Glue and nail outside corners. You can use a mix of super glue and wood glue. Paint your baseboards and trim before you install them. If you have lovely interior, hollow core doors, go ahead and replace them before you go and redo the door trim. I sure wish I had. Make extra certain you're doing the kind of door and window trim you like. I sort of wish I had gone with craftsman style molding/trim instead of what I did. Door trim was hard for me to nail (  ). Measure a bunch of times, cut once or risk wasting 7 ft of your door trim.
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Jan 3, 2022 22:23
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MetaJew posted:Door trim was hard for me to nail ( If you are replacing existing trim, use it as a template when cutting the new stuff then you don't even have to measure anything. Doing this saved me a lot of stress and waste.
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Jan 3, 2022 23:00
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I've got some steel I beams in my garage (late 90s construction, attached 3 car garage, original to house) parallel to the garage doors in the middle. There is a big fucker over the 2 car bay, bolted to a smaller one that extends over the 1 car bay, with a column where they meet, and there's another small one on top of the big one running back through the rest of the house (perpendicular to the other two), which I assume is a big part of the 2nd floor support. I want to hook my TRX trainer to one of them and work out. I'd be putting only about 250# of weight max onto the thing but at times it's out at angles. Any issues with that since I assume it's just designed to take vertical loads? Am I overthinking this and being paranoid? Or should I get my affairs in order before working out?
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Jan 3, 2022 23:24
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Sirotan posted:If you are replacing existing trim, use it as a template when cutting the new stuff then you don't even have to measure anything. Doing this saved me a lot of stress and waste. That's a good idea. In my case the trim was 1990s/late 1980s 1.5"-2" wide trim that snapped and splintered in random places as I tried to pry it off.
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Jan 3, 2022 23:57
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Tyro posted:I've got some steel I beams in my garage (late 90s construction, attached 3 car garage, original to house) parallel to the garage doors in the middle. There is a big fucker over the 2 car bay, bolted to a smaller one that extends over the 1 car bay, with a column where they meet, and there's another small one on top of the big one running back through the rest of the house (perpendicular to the other two), which I assume is a big part of the 2nd floor support. You're fine
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Jan 4, 2022 00:14
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NomNomNom posted:You're fine
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Jan 4, 2022 02:05
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Not sure which thread to post this, but we have a problem we're trying to solve. We have a wall that needs some built-ins, but it's... challenging: So we have the transom windows above, an air return on the right wall, and on the left wall are other windows (that start just out of the picture frame). So floor-to-ceiling is not going to work without major renovations that just aren't going to happen. Also can't do floor-to-transom due to the stuff on adjacent walls... the classic "built in with cupboards on the bottom" just isn't going to fly here. In my head, some sort of "floating" kind of built-ins would work? Like maybe the bottom shelf would be right above the air return, and they'd go up to about 1' shy of the transoms? Thinking some sort of irregular pattern where they're different sizes or something. The challenge is doing this without making it look horrible or awkward. Even just a series of regular, level shelves seems like it'd be weird. Blowing the mantle away is an option, but not one we really want to visit unless it's the only way to make something fit right. Anyone have any sort of ideas what we can do with this to make these walls useful? Wouldn't have to be super deep, maybe like 8" to match the mantle depth.
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Jan 4, 2022 02:51
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^^^^^^ Honestly without moving that vent, you don't. Just get some bookshelves, maybe with some drawers that fit the space. The space on the sides will look like weird with movable furniture v. builtins. And I say this as someone who has almost never seen something and not wanted to put a built in in. If storage is something you can sacrifice you could maybe build in some benches with a lid. hypnophant posted:Wirecutter talked to a speed queen dealer who claimed he had the same rate of service calls for speed queens as other washers Speed Queen had a rash of problems with front load washers for a substantial number of years until quite recently. Allegedly the issue has been fixed, but probably worth doing research before you buy a front loader. Dryers and top loaders have been tanks, best I can tell. FWIW, the repair guy I spoke to says basically buy a whirlpool. Maytags are now just fancy whirlpools (I used to have some of the last Iowa Maytags, but my new house could only do stackables) and not worth any premium. He seems to think that whirlpool combines good reliability with reparability and perhaps most importantly these days, parts availability. He also liked boschs, but as has been discussed, they have some major downsides capacity and dry time wise. nm fucked around with this message at 07:53 on Jan 4, 2022 |
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Jan 4, 2022 07:49
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Open the wall and move the vent!
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Jan 4, 2022 08:10
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falz posted:Edit: is "Hansgrohe" a real brand? I've never heard of it, has good reviews, made in Germany and not china? Hansgrohe is good stuff.
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Jan 4, 2022 12:15
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DaveSauce posted:Not sure which thread to post this, but we have a problem we're trying to solve. We have a wall that needs some built-ins, but it's... challenging: How the heck do you train your children not to touch your telescope? (Also I thought you had a really embarrassing home theatre speaker setup for a few minutes...)
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Jan 4, 2022 12:50
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DaveSauce posted:Not sure which thread to post this, but we have a problem we're trying to solve. We have a wall that needs some built-ins, but it's... challenging: Put a bench? Low counter? On either side of the fireplace. The one on the right can be hollow and you can extend the return into it. The one on the left could flip up for storage.
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Jan 4, 2022 13:43
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MetaJew posted:Baseboards and stuff are no fun. Tight, thanks for the tips. They make plenty of caulk-tube-shaped adhesives which is what I was probably leaning towards. I do have lovely hollow doors, but we're not going to be replacing them any time soon, unfortunately. We're going with the most minimalist, basic baseboard trim so I think coping the inner corners is actually not as good as doing an inside miter cut? Apologies if I'm just absoltuely murdering the terminology, still getting a basic grasp on all the proper terms. Sirotan posted:If you are replacing existing trim, use it as a template when cutting the new stuff then you don't even have to measure anything. Doing this saved me a lot of stress and waste. lol this is funny to me, as I do not trust a single thing the PO fuckheads did, especially if it is even remotely related to trim. These dogshit fuckbrains I don't think even measured ONCE, let alone twice, before cutting anything. See my front storm door being upside down and inside out, trim being installed backwards, gaps/overhangs of >=1/8", just absolute straight cuts right in the middle of the crown molding, using four different pieces of trim with literally no adhesive or fasteners, the list goes on... 
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Jan 4, 2022 13:55
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If you're using those baseboards, they're slightly rounded on the top outside edge and you can just do straight butt joints for inside corners and use trim caulking and your finger to round the transition. Outside corners should be fine with simple miters and glue as previously mentioned, with caulking again to fill gaps and smooth everything out. I used finishing nails and a pneumatic gun for mine, though, so it was easier to lock them in place even when my margins weren't perfect, I dunno how straight adhesive would work.
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Jan 4, 2022 14:36
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Johnny Truant posted:
Post the photo again
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Jan 4, 2022 15:37
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That Works posted:Post the photo again lol, you got it mutata posted:If you're using those baseboards, they're slightly rounded on the top outside edge and you can just do straight butt joints for inside corners and use trim caulking and your finger to round the transition. Outside corners should be fine with simple miters and glue as previously mentioned, with caulking again to fill gaps and smooth everything out. Most excellent, thank you! It's sounding like maybe finishing nails around the various corners and adhesive for most of the rest.  
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Jan 4, 2022 16:15
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Had an "Aha!" moment last night with the FLIR. My girlfriend pointed out that both bedrooms in the house are identical except one is missing a window where it should have one on a back wall. I'd never considered that but it would make sense that a window used to be there because there was an old 240v receptacle below that area that could have really only powered an old AC window unit. On the other side of that wall is also where the central AC Condenser is so it would make sense that they would have walled up the window because of noise concerns after central AC was put it. There's not a huge inside/outside cold differential right now, but even so I can clearly see the window header and studs still there, as well as an additional stud they put in for sheet rocking.  Looks like one of the POs was a total boss and they did a huge refresh on the house in the 70s or early 80s to brick it up, install central AC, re-sheetrock most, if not all rooms, add exterior wall insulation to most of the walls, patch the floors from the old furnace that was removed, and more. And it was all done well. I wish I could shake their loving hand and I hope they are smiling at me from beyond the grave for fixing all the poo poo the owner(s) between us did.
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Jan 4, 2022 17:45
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Johnny Truant posted:<trim install job from hell> Oh lmao yes my bad, my advice above clearly needed a *ONLY IF REPLACING COMPETENTLY INSTALLED TRIM added to it. Well on the upside, there's no way your attempt won't look fabulous in comparison?
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Jan 4, 2022 17:50
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Our house (~55-60 years old) has something like 20-30' of 2" cast iron pipe for the upstairs drains that keeps getting clogged, so we had it scoped and they said the pipe looks like it's in good condition but has a ton of scale built up that keeps snagging waste. The plumber that scoped it quoted $5500 to mill out the scale on every inch of cast iron in the house including 60+ feet of 4" main out under the yard, which seems like overkill since the main is noticeably in way better shape and way harder to clog (not even remotely an issue so far.) Would this really be the best course of action or should we be looking hard at other alternatives? Other, handier friends & relatives say they've had similar issues resolved via hydrojetting or conventional augering for a fraction of the cost; I'm not sure how long that would be good for or what it would do for the life span of the pipe but I assume it would probably be prudent to rip it out and replace it at some point (at least the main branch where everything feeds together; I don't think we've ever had a real clog going from any given fixture to the branch, and it would be relatively easy to snake it out if we did, the real issue is the pipe where everything meets up heading to the main stack.) Any recommendations?
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Jan 4, 2022 19:02
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What is a good ceiling mounted 24” wide electric radiant heater that won’t burn down my house? I would like to be able to aim it at an area. Running a separate 20A circuit and timer switch is easy. I want it to always default to eventually off, this is for temporary heat in the winter for the garage workbench space.
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Jan 4, 2022 19:58
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the holy poopacy posted:Our house (~55-60 years old) has something like 20-30' of 2" cast iron pipe for the upstairs drains that keeps getting clogged, so we had it scoped and they said the pipe looks like it's in good condition but has a ton of scale built up that keeps snagging waste. The plumber that scoped it quoted $5500 to mill out the scale on every inch of cast iron in the house including 60+ feet of 4" main out under the yard, which seems like overkill since the main is noticeably in way better shape and way harder to clog (not even remotely an issue so far.) Would this really be the best course of action or should we be looking hard at other alternatives? Other, handier friends & relatives say they've had similar issues resolved via hydrojetting or conventional augering for a fraction of the cost; I'm not sure how long that would be good for or what it would do for the life span of the pipe but I assume it would probably be prudent to rip it out and replace it at some point (at least the main branch where everything feeds together; I don't think we've ever had a real clog going from any given fixture to the branch, and it would be relatively easy to snake it out if we did, the real issue is the pipe where everything meets up heading to the main stack.) Any recommendations? At that price I'd hydrojet then see how long it takes to reoccur. I had a clogged drain pipe that I kept running for 5+ years with occasional hydrojetting before I finally had it replaced it the right way (it wasn't in good condition and needed to be replaced as part of a later renovation). I'd expect hydrojetting to be under 1000, and it might be a long term fix if it took 50 years to become a problem in the first place.
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Jan 4, 2022 20:24
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Ok goons what am i missing from my bathroom renovation planning spreadsheet? And what seeems wayyy off guess-wise. TIA for the free general contracting advice  
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Jan 4, 2022 20:40
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What's the SF of the floor, what's on it now (including how many layers), and what are you putting down?
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Jan 4, 2022 20:52
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Demo might be free but you'll probably need to spend some money getting all the trash hauled away. Could probably fit it all in a Bagster if that's an option in your area.
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Jan 4, 2022 21:03
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falz posted:Ok goons what am i missing from my bathroom renovation planning spreadsheet? And what seeems wayyy off guess-wise. I'm a residential estimator, although I may work at a higher price point than you're working at, so if you can't square any of my statements that's probably why. I assume you're self performing all of the work and these are just material costs you're estimating. 1. Fan/vent pricing works if you assume it is just the fan unit. If you need to install new venting, new vent cap, vent cap block on the exterior, new timer switch, new wiring, etc. $200 is not enough. Contractor pricing on a middle-tier panasonic is around $155. 2. Vanity can be done for $1k if you find an all in one unit. I usually give clients a minimum of $1k for the cabinet, $30 for cab hardware, $800 for a stone countertop from remnant stock. 3. Towel bar and hardware might be low. For budget projects I usually give $50 per piece. So at $150 that gets you a toilet paper holder, a towel ring for the vanity, and maybe one towel rod. Might not be enough, but you could go cheaper and make it work for $150. 4. Mirror for $100 you're looking at a framed home depot special or a piece of mirror glass that you pick up yourself from a local glass supply house (home improvement stores often have a few sizes for super cheap as well). I think I usually budget $200-250 for a piece of glass installed, and I give a minimum of $350 to clients to select a mirror from Kohler/Restoration/etc. 5. Paint is under unless you can get it done for three gallons or less. Ceiling paint, wall paint, primer, trim paint gets you to four. Doesn't include other supplies. 6. Missing items - base trim, anything to do with the door, shower rod, curtain, new cover for forced air supply (I assume), medicine cabinet (?), permit fees, disposal fees This is based on a mental model of your bathroom that may be incorrect in part or in whole.
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Jan 4, 2022 21:08
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PainterofCrap posted:What's the SF of the floor, what's on it now (including how many layers), and what are you putting down? room is 5'x9' with the shower, so <40sf of actual flooring. I'm just going to try to get some nice vinyl (and have someone else do it) if such a thing exists. It could also be LVP and done myself but I'm very wary of that in a bathroom due to edges. Current floor is original vinyl(?) sheet from the mid 1980's. I don't want 'real' tile because it wold be cold as hell, and I don't want to 'fix' that by spending another bunch of $ on a heated floor because it requires a dedicated circuit, and getting that circuit from the basement to the 2nd floor seems hard. Thanks for the note on demo, I hope to just use contractor bags and throw the stuff away over the course of winter (hadnt thought it out honestly) Things I definitely missed: * Shower rod (permanent), liner, curtain ($100-$150?). I don't want a glass door, and if i change my mind i can add it later. * Trim, old trim is all water sogged and terrible Tezer posted:I'm a residential estimator, although I may work at a higher price point than you're working at, so if you can't square any of my statements that's probably why. I assume you're self performing all of the work and these are just material costs you're estimating. EDIT: perfect thank you! yes this is perfect, i'll up some estimates. I forgot about painting the ceiling but I need to do that too. And bam yep I need a new cover for floor for sure. Most labour should be myself, i added separate line(s) for labour if someone else does it, only have that on floor for now. My budget is $6000, I could go over but would prefer not to. I want to do floor to ceiling shower curtain/liner as well because it looks more neato? idk if that makes it cost even more. Edit 2: updated with above, now a lot closer to $6k  falz fucked around with this message at 21:47 on Jan 4, 2022 |
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Jan 4, 2022 21:12
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Check if your local city/county/whatever has an option for waste disposal. My city let's you take up to 6 loads a year for free to their waste transfer station, which is perfect for getting rid of a pile of construction debris. I had to rent a U-haul to get rid of all my insulation, but for $25 all-in and taking the day off from work, I can't complain.
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Jan 4, 2022 21:23
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