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priznat posted:I just feel having 2 locking points is better than 1, and that’s with reinforcing the strike plate and frame area. One of my doors has large glass windows to either side of it. The other one is a full glass door. The locks are there for comfort/discouraging ultra casual breakins, not because they’ll stop someone serious from breaking in.
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Jan 6, 2022 19:41
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^ Exactly. When my parents house was broken into, they ignored the front door entirely and used a sledgehammer on the patio door. Straight to the master and spare bedrooms for money/jewelry. Russian crew who were eventually caught, they had a woman who cased the neighborhoods first to make sure no one was home. My parents had an alarm and surveillance cameras, not that it mattered because they were in and out in four minutes. We have contact alarms on the windows and live in a more populated area so I don't worry about it that much. We have a ubolt pro which is for convenience more than anything else. I don't bother with second locks because of the above. Oh and keep valuables hidden in the pantry or laundry room under stuff.
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Jan 6, 2022 21:30
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G4 Doorbell Pro just hit Early Access / managed to snag one. Description is fuzzy but apparently on Discord a UI employee confirmed that the USB-C port can do data also, so I guess the MO is to put a USB-C <-> PoE/data adapter in the wall somewhere, versus a direct RJ-45 on the device. Not my preference, but I ran a Cat6 up the wall, so I'm ready for it. I used a 802.3af power adapter (PoE In, 24 VDC Out) for the initial install, so this isn't terrible. Now I just have to find a loving wall plate solution that works to clean up the install, it spent the past year exposed to the elements... e: https://store.ui.com/collections/unifi-protect-cameras/products/g4-doorbell-pro-ea if you have EA movax fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Jan 7, 2022 |
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Jan 7, 2022 18:36
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movax posted:G4 Doorbell Pro just hit Early Access / managed to snag one. Glad to see the rumors on this were true. I was holding off on buying the current G4 because I really liked the potential for NFC/Biometrics, and the down facing camera/light is pretty good too.
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Jan 7, 2022 19:00
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I really hope someone comes up with a way to use that directly in HA/Blue Iris without the unifi stuff.
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Jan 7, 2022 19:10
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Biometrics going to be part of their Access product? A
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Jan 8, 2022 03:24
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For what it’s worth I’ve been less then impressed by their current doorbell. Like it works, but I just got a notification that someone is at the door, for someone who was actually at the door on 12/28/2021.
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Jan 8, 2022 17:31
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blugu64 posted:For what it’s worth I’ve been less then impressed by their current doorbell. Like it works, but I just got a notification that someone is at the door, for someone who was actually at the door on 12/28/2021. They must have been waiting a long time!!! I've been generally happy with my G4; I need to get integration working with my HomeKit + Alexa because I don't have an actual chime (my house always had an intercom system, never a real doorbell, so I had to pull new cable for it). Wi-Fi has been honestly pretty stable but I'd rather have wired when I can. Depending on their cloud for notifications to work properly is a bummer though -- hoping that when I dig into the Homebridge details of it, that's all run locally.
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Jan 8, 2022 19:17
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azurite posted:I don't think you need to do this. Devices with S2 should be backwards compatible with S0. This ended up being a non issue, it actually came updated out of the box, which was definitely a surprise given the reviews. Finally got my outdoor lights back into HomeAssistant/Mycroft and got some automation around locking my front door at night so that when my wife suddenly asks at 11pm if I remembered to lock it I can say yes and not have to trek across the house to check.
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Jan 8, 2022 21:01
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Happy New Year goons! I have some ceiling light/fans that are smart and connect to my HA. Problem is that the wiring is such that the switch on the wall gives it power, or turns off power to it completely. We use it by keeping the power switch on and using the remote that came with it. I'd like to make this idiot proof and wire it so that it's always receiving power and has no interface switch. This is easily done, but not my question. In the place of the current switch, after I've given it constant power, I'd like to have a single gang device that can connect to HA to control the lights and fan separately. Ideally a dimmer for each for light and fan speed, but a single switch for on/off and dial in speed/dim by remote or app is fine too. Any thought on such a device that can connect (Zwave) and the button/switch only serves to send a command to HA and not a wired device to it? Thanks!
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Jan 10, 2022 22:10
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TraderStav posted:Happy New Year goons! I have some ceiling light/fans that are smart and connect to my HA. Problem is that the wiring is such that the switch on the wall gives it power, or turns off power to it completely. We use it by keeping the power switch on and using the remote that came with it. I'd like to make this idiot proof and wire it so that it's always receiving power and has no interface switch. This is easily done, but not my question. I do this with an Inovelli Red dimmer switch; basically, it sends scene commands and HA interprets them/sends the control signals to the fan and light. So single tap controls fan light, double taps control another set of lights in the room, and triple tap controls fan on/off. (I could add fan speed on quad tap if I wanted but didn't seem worth the effort, at that point I just get out my phone.)
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Jan 10, 2022 22:18
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Scruff McGruff posted:Glad to see the rumors on this were true. I was holding off on buying the current G4 because I really liked the potential for NFC/Biometrics, and the down facing camera/light is pretty good too. Looks like they confirmed it will do wired data with the as-of-yet unreleased USB-C / PoE adapter! I have a junction box, so hoping it can get crammed in there. Hooray, another device off my Wi-Fi (even though it's basically been 100% solid for a year)!
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Jan 10, 2022 22:26
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Kalman posted:I do this with an Inovelli Red dimmer switch; basically, it sends scene commands and HA interprets them/sends the control signals to the fan and light. So single tap controls fan light, double taps control another set of lights in the room, and triple tap controls fan on/off. (I could add fan speed on quad tap if I wanted but didn't seem worth the effort, at that point I just get out my phone.) Oh neat, and I have a few of those lying around to test. So as long as the switch has power just get it to be recognized by HA and configure the button presses. Very nice. Ideally would have something that is obviously different for fan / light distinction, but I won't be a beggar here. Thanks!
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Jan 10, 2022 22:35
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TraderStav posted:Oh neat, and I have a few of those lying around to test. So as long as the switch has power just get it to be recognized by HA and configure the button presses. Very nice. Ideally would have something that is obviously different for fan / light distinction, but I won't be a beggar here. Thanks! Yeah, just don't hook up the load wire - just needs neutral and ground. You could also keep an eye out for their wall-mounted scene controller, but it's been delayed and I think they stopped accepting new pre-orders for it so it might be a while. (When I get my preorder, I plan to replace the Red switch with one.) That would give you individual controls, at least to the extent of toggles, and you could probably do something in HA to do dimmers using the top buttons to select a "mode" and the bottom buttons to dim.
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Jan 10, 2022 22:41
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Kalman posted:Yeah, just don't hook up the load wire - just needs neutral and ground. https://inovelli.com/red-series-fan-light-switch-z-wave/ There's this too, which looks exactly what I'd want but no need to hook up to the fan, provided it still will operate the way described above.
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Jan 10, 2022 22:53
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TraderStav posted:https://inovelli.com/red-series-fan-light-switch-z-wave/ Yeah, you could set that up to control the fan indirectly via scene button presses in the same way, though if you're doing that switch I almost feel like you might as well replace the fan module with the Inovelli one?
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Jan 10, 2022 23:12
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Dang, are there really no Lutron Caseta dimmers that have a neutral wire connection and a favorite button besides the ELV+ dimmer? I've put a bunch of the no-neutral dimmers around my house, but they don't have the favorite button. I'd much rather have a neutral-required one since I've got neutrals in all my jboxes. Does it matter if I put the ELV+ ($$$  ) dimmers in place of regular dimmers with 3-5 LED bulbs per fixture?
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Jan 10, 2022 23:29
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:Dang, are there really no Lutron Caseta dimmers that have a neutral wire connection and a favorite button besides the ELV+ dimmer? Nope, unless you put a Pico somewhere. I have several ELV+ dimmers on circuits / fixtures that do not need them, solely for that button. That's how they get you.
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Jan 11, 2022 01:43
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That’s how they get you? We’re already spending $60 on a single freakin switch. They already “got” us once  
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Jan 11, 2022 02:50
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My pointless idea of the night is an app that hooks into home assistant and gives you a total cost of all your smart home poo poo
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Jan 11, 2022 03:00
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Gyshall posted:My pointless idea of the night is an app that hooks into home assistant and gives you a total cost of all your smart home poo poo I refuse to install this app. Just like a refuse to =SUM any spreadsheets of car projects.
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Jan 11, 2022 03:22
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Motronic posted:I refuse to install this app. Guitars... bikes.... Ignorance please!
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Jan 11, 2022 03:38
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I'm resisting the urge to Caseta every single switch in the house, but I spent the weekend installing a Caseta switch in the garage to control some lights that are powered off the garage to light up the backyard (had to do quite a bit else to get a neutral to the box) and I slapped that pico remote inside the house and it feels like magic to control that light in the house without running any extra wire.
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Jan 11, 2022 03:44
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Gyshall posted:My pointless idea of the night is an app that hooks into home assistant and gives you a total cost of all your smart home poo poo No, see, it cost less because it was a slow addiction / build up of devices… ”49 Lutron devices added” FISHMANPET posted:I'm resisting the urge to Caseta every single switch in the house, but I spent the weekend installing a Caseta switch in the garage to control some lights that are powered off the garage to light up the backyard (had to do quite a bit else to get a neutral to the box) and I slapped that pico remote inside the house and it feels like magic to control that light in the house without running any extra wire. It’s worth it, I have maybe 4 or 5 things that are not Caseta right now and that’s simply because they are better suited with a Maestro. A Caseta’able Maestro would be perfect. Do it, cowards. DO IT.
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Jan 11, 2022 04:17
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One of my hang-ups is that I miss tactile-ness of a standard switch, I miss being able to grope in the dark along the wall until I can feel the switch and know easily I can grope up to turn it on or grope down to turn it off. I don't even really like Decora switches for that reason. I also wish they had a better offering for ceiling fans. You can buy single gang switches that can control both the light and the fan, but if you want to do it with Caseta you need two devices and 2 gang. I've actually considered getting a Caseta switch to control the ceiling fan in my office. The speed control is directly above where I sit so it's easy enough to reach up and adjust the fan speed or turn the light on or off, but it might be nice to get the Caseta to control the whole thing and at least be able to turn it on or off with my voice (if I get the bridge...).
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Jan 11, 2022 04:42
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Yep that’s my biggest complaint with the Casetas vs the rocker dumb switches. I hate how I can’t feel the wall at night to click it on. The only feedback is the tiny triangle on the dimmer up button or looking for the LEDs and moving up and right.
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Jan 11, 2022 04:45
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FISHMANPET posted:I'm resisting the urge to Caseta every single switch in the house, but I spent the weekend installing a Caseta switch in the garage to control some lights that are powered off the garage to light up the backyard (had to do quite a bit else to get a neutral to the box) and I slapped that pico remote inside the house and it feels like magic to control that light in the house without running any extra wire. Do it you coward. I made a spreadsheet I shouldn't have. I calculated that to put Caseta everywhere that makes sense (including picos and fan speed controllers), and to update all the wall plates to Claro, and update all the receptacles to decora (with claro plates) would be a whopping $3,000 in parts alone. That's using prices online, if I did it I'd probably call around a few electrical supply houses to see if I could get a bulk discount, but there's only like 1 I know of that I could pull favors from and they do mostly industrial stuff so they might not have a good price on residential parts (edit: actually the one I know lists Lutron on their line card, so that might work...). Cutting out the "smart" and replacing everything with dumb decora stuff would cut it down to $1,500, so it's not like it's super cheap to begin with. And to be honest this is a project I really ought to do because the house is 22 years old, so it's beyond time for all that stuff to be replaced.
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Jan 11, 2022 14:24
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DaveSauce posted:Do it you coward. Mine came with almond plates / switches / outlets everywhere that I suspect were original to the house (1984) plus I bought at start of pandemic, so it gave me something to do going around the house and replacing everything while earning Chase points at Home Depot. I went too far though, and did mostly Caseta switches everywhere, Claro wallplates, and then Lutron receptacles + mechanical switches where it made sense... because I liked their 'clunk' more than the Leviton ones, and the Lutron white plastic matched much better with the Claros than Leviton did. I even paid extra (dumb) for black Caseta stuff (mostly remotes) in a few rooms where it made sense... still not as bad as the multi-million dollar homes that I'm sure basically order bespoke runs of Lutron components in any of their 15+ "extra" colors. Lowest hanging fruit by far but I'm far better at electrical things than I am at painting...
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Jan 11, 2022 17:54
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PD-10NXD is the beefier dimmer, still gets toasty though running incandescents...  Bonus thermal puppy: 
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Jan 12, 2022 07:15
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movax posted:PD-10NXD is the beefier dimmer, still gets toasty though running incandescents... Oh cool, I thought they topped out at 5A load. I'm running either LEDs or CFLs for the vast majority of my lights, but good to know I can get a beefier Caseta if necessary... I have a few places where I'm vaguely concerned about the load, but knowing I can fix it if necessary is a relief. Also I brought the FLIR up to my wife the other day and am working on a business case...
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Jan 12, 2022 14:22
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movax posted:PD-10NXD is the beefier dimmer, still gets toasty though running incandescents... I desperately want a flir
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Jan 12, 2022 15:02
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DaveSauce posted:Oh cool, I thought they topped out at 5A load. I'm running either LEDs or CFLs for the vast majority of my lights, but good to know I can get a beefier Caseta if necessary... I have a few places where I'm vaguely concerned about the load, but knowing I can fix it if necessary is a relief. Yep -- this one is "PRO" only but it works fine with regular Caseta system. You just have to be careful of not snapping off too many of the heatsink fins to maintain the power rating... I would never put this in the middle of a gang box if I could help it.
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Jan 12, 2022 19:54
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movax posted:Yep -- this one is "PRO" only but it works fine with regular Caseta system. You just have to be careful of not snapping off too many of the heatsink fins to maintain the power rating... I would never put this in the middle of a gang box if I could help it. Yup, I saw that in the manual. Currently I only have 1 installed and it's on its own next to regular toggles, so it's full steam ahead. But I do know that you have to snap off the metal fins and then derate them when you gang them together. And now I'm remembering that derating is where I was concerned... the normal one should be just fine for most, if not all, my lights. But derating them might cause some issues... I have at least one 4-gang box full of switches that will all be Caseta, so I'll have to look extra hard at that one.
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Jan 12, 2022 20:15
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I wanted a FLIR thermal camera too, but spending $500 minimum for a resolution roughly on par with an early Palm Pilot was a hard sell. I know the story with Hikvision, but eventually I was won over by nosuchthingasethicalconsumption.jpg and bought their thermal camera. I got an H10 and I'm pretty happy with it. The menu is in Chinese, but you can easily find the Celsius/Fahrenheit setting and Google translate everything else. I've been fine just leaving it set to defaults. It doesn't look as sharp as that FLIR, but that might be due to having a crappier algorithm for merging the visible and thermal images. The image is still detailed enough to easily discern objects and their temperatures. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001422640955.html I originally bought it for spotting drafts and troubleshooting circuit boards, but it's useful for spot-checking all sorts of things. It recently came in handy when I was checking temperatures of pipes and verifying my heat cables were working as intended. If $200-300 is still out of your range, I previously made do with one of these (or an equivalent): https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-1080-Non-Contact-Thermometer/dp/B00DMI632G/ azurite fucked around with this message at 01:44 on Jan 13, 2022 |
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Jan 13, 2022 01:41
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The FLIR One is $400 for the "pro" version and down to $200 for the cheapest: https://www.flir.com/browse/home-amp-outdoor/mobile-accessories/ It's a dongle that attaches to your cell phone, not a standalone device.
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Jan 13, 2022 01:53
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Here are a couple of images from the Hikvision. Not nearly as crisp as that FLIR, but you get the idea.  
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Jan 13, 2022 02:12
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azurite posted:I wanted a FLIR thermal camera too, but spending $500 minimum for a resolution roughly on par with an early Palm Pilot was a hard sell. I know the story with Hikvision, but eventually I was won over by nosuchthingasethicalconsumption.jpg and bought their thermal camera. I got an H10 and I'm pretty happy with it. The menu is in Chinese, but you can easily find the Celsius/Fahrenheit setting and Google translate everything else. I've been fine just leaving it set to defaults. It doesn't look as sharp as that FLIR, but that might be due to having a crappier algorithm for merging the visible and thermal images. The image is still detailed enough to easily discern objects and their temperatures. I cannot reiterate enough how incredibly lovely the FLIR E8-XT software is. It’s just… loving poo poo. Buggy, clunky, Wi-Fi barely works, and you can hard lock it. The only intelligent people at FLIR (now Teledyne) work on the FPAs and that’s it. Talentless idiots take it from there. I briefly checked to see if a firmware update was available, but then found a product discontinuation notice for the software one would notionally use to see if a firmware update was available. Maybe something called ‘FLIR Thermal Studio’ can do it now, but the website was not super helpful in getting the simple answer. If I get bored enough I’d rip this thing open and get my own FPGA / SoC interface to the FPA and then publish it for the world to see so they don’t have to suffer with the stock firmware.
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Jan 13, 2022 02:50
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DaveSauce posted:The FLIR One is $400 for the "pro" version and down to $200 for the cheapest: It's cool that there are cheaper options, but I'm generally uncomfortable with devices that are dependent on a mobile app. The low-end ones are also half the resolution. This is a pretty good comparison between resolutions. The contour lines are superimposed from a normal camera to help you see objects, so you have to sort of "look past" those at the coloring for the true thermal image. https://www.tequipment.net/FLIR-C3-vs-FLIR-ONE-Pro/
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Jan 13, 2022 03:17
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azurite posted:Here are a couple of images from the Hikvision. Not nearly as crisp as that FLIR, but you get the idea. Please take a video of a fart with this bad boy
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Jan 13, 2022 06:16
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w00tmonger posted:Please take a video of a fart with this bad boy
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