movax posted:

Linear's never been cheap but yeah the availability is lovely. I swear I saw a few hundred on Digi-Key a few days ago, but that might as well have been pre-pandemic considering how fast poo poo sells out.

quote:

Judging from the part number / date of datasheet release, this must be one of the very last Linear designs before the ADI acquisition, or one of the first post-acquisition designs executed by (hopefully) the same team under the ADI banner. The datasheet quality is still high and typical of Linear's work, so I'm hopeful.

quote:

I don't use a lot of MPS stuff, but MP9486 might be interesting; if you only need 48 V input, there are a lot more options that stop ~60 V in as well.

PRADA SLUT posted:

Is there an easy way to check the clock rate of those switchers for FCC compliance, from a given input?

Acid Reflux posted:

PokeJoe posted:

I got a pi zero 2 W for $15 out of pure luck from browsing pishop.us at 3am

Pham Nuwen posted:

McMaster-Carr is the place if you want to be sure you're getting exactly the right part, since they've got all the dimensions and options meticulously laid out on their site.

I wonder if they'll still send you their massive physical catalog if you ask; I remember using that at my first job, but their website is pretty drat good so I've never missed it except out of nostalgia.

ante posted:

Never use 8266 anymore, just spring for the 32. Only legacy projects still support the old one, and it really only has like, 4 usable GPIO


Edit: correction never happened

PRADA SLUT posted:

Old ESP32s are NRND, replaced with the S3/C3 and similar.

Gone is the WROOM32

Stack Machine posted:

This is a tough call. If it were my gear I'd keep the power conditioner. The datasheet for it makes specific objective claims about what it does (for example how much surge energy it can dissipate, how much it attenuates RFI) so even if most peoples' reasons for using them are audiophile nonsense this device does measurable things and is a reasonable surge suppressor. I wouldn't worry too much about component aging except for maybe electrolytic capacitors, but unless it was stored sonewhere hot or made with especially bad caps, 10 years isn't usually long enough for those problems to start appearing.

A caveat to this is connected equipment warranty. If you buy just about any old surge protector new they'll cover your gear up to some amount. I don't know if that sort of thing is transferable or limited but if you care it might be worth checking with Panamax to see if theirs exists and still applies to you.

quote:

CAUTION – Do not install this device if there is not at least 10 meters (30 feet) or more of wire between the electrical outlet and electrical service panel.

Shame Boy posted:

Motor question: I'm just kinda sussing out parts for a project that will need a motor that can be frequently stopped, reversed, and dialed to specific angular positions (though the accuracy isn't too important, like 1/8th-1/16th of a revolution is fine). It needs to be able to spin at at least 300 RPM and have at least 4.5 Nm of torque (but not too much more).

This seems to be squarely within the range of NEMA 34 stepper motors like this one, but I'm wondering if there's some other technology I'm overlooking that might work better or be cheaper.

e: Also here's an unrelated Amazon product image I like a whole lot

petit choux posted:

Hey, BTW, since I'm here, I've been working on this crude little project, here it is:



It's just to make it so you can use your feet to control the little synth, is all.

ante posted:

That's not true at all.

Sagebrush posted:

The great majority of rotary encoders use a two terminal (plus ground) output that encodes position and direction as essentially the phase difference between the terminals.

In the starting position let's say that both outputs are low. You click the encoder one turn clockwise, and as it moves terminal A goes high, and then a fraction of a second later terminal B does too. When both outputs have changed, you register a click. When you turn the knob another click clockwise, A goes low first, then B, and it continues around the circle alternating like that. If you turn the knob counterclockwise, the same thing happens, but B changes before A. So by watching both outputs for a state change and recording which one changed first, you can determine when the encoder was clicked and in what direction it was turned. The technical term for this is "quadrature encoding" if you want to look it up.

You can easily check the operation of a rotary encoder with a two channel oscilloscope. If you don't have that, you can make a little tester with a couple of LEDs on a breadboard and click the encoder around and watch them light up. Or you can just not worry about it: most encoders will have four terminals (A, B, the push down click, and ground/common), and if you can identify ground and the button, you can hook the other two up in either order and the encoder will work. If you get them backwards the rotation direction will just be reversed.

Oh, and no, you are unlikely to cause any damage by hooking an encoder up wrong. There should be hardly any current running through it in the first place. It just won't work properly.

petit choux posted:

Wow, thanks for the great answer. I'd still love to hear anybody else weigh in on this. Here is a link to the ones I just got:

https://www.digikey.com/en/products...xrx50VurfaC2wO7

ED: Oh, and I'll need to sever the old one before trying the new one, right?

DrBouvenstein posted:

Simple question:

I have a momentary switch that I like the look/feel of. I'd like to use it in a small project, but I need it to perform as a toggle/latching switch.

It seems this is easy enough to do with a D type-flip-flop? I've seen a schematic or two for them, but I also found, of all places, a website designed for people whjo wnt to build custom lightsaber replicas that sells a pre-made board for fairly cheap:
https://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Momentary-to-latching-converter-22-to-16V-P1129.aspx

I plan to have this use 12V (from a car's supply) but can easily use a voltage regulator to send that down (even though I think I'm ok since this is rated for up to 16V.)

Does this seem like it would work for my purposes? I watched a small video of someone from that website demonstrating that product (well, an older version of it, slightly different looking board but same functionality) and it did exactly what I want. Supply to Vin, output to Vout (in my case a relay since what's getting turned on will be probably be drawing a decent amount of current, certainly more than I want going through that board), all the grounds to the ground pins, and a momentary witch across the contacts A and B.
The only pins I am not sure what to do with are the On/Off and CTRL. I think I can just ignore these in my use case?

Hexyflexy posted:

I can recommend those encoders made by Bourns Inc, my partner uses them in stuff he builds and we've never had a problem with them, unlike cheapo ones.

movax posted:

The main thing I’d think about / check is debounce, but yeah just running that into a DFF should work. Set input would work but I guess you could also run it into the clock input with D tied high.

DrBouvenstein posted:

You've completely lost me with almost everything you said here.

There is no clock? I don't think? And I'm not sure what "set input" is? Is that just the 12V I have coming in as supply? D tied high is also over my head.

All I want to know is if I can put 12V into the Vin, Vout to a 12V relay, and put a small momentary switch across AB on their pinout and have it all work correctly as a toggle every time I push the switch.

PRADA SLUT posted:

The data sheet clearly says NRND: https://www.espressif.com/sites/default/files/documentation/esp32-wroom-32_datasheet_en.pdf

It will be supported for whatever it’s EOL is, but the transition target is the new S3/C3

movax posted:

But -- you need it to toggle, which I forgot, so what I posted won't work. The fastest thing to do is probably just buy that converter which will also take care of level-shifting / passing through a higher voltage. One thing though -- you said "a car's supply" -- is this running off a vehicle 12 V bus? If so, that can and will see massive spikes / transient events that can reach 80 V for very short periods of time. Some additional TVS / protection circuitry might be needed for that off-the-shelf board there.

DrBouvenstein posted:

Up to 80V? Really?

I'm not running directly off the alternator or battery or anything, I'm planning to tap into an unused spot on my fuse box that would normally be used for an accessory my car doesn't have.

Or maybe a better idea is to tap into the "accessory" port? I.e. my second cigarette lighter? (I have a real cigarette lighter, and then a second port that's just like more modern cars that is just meant to take a cigarette lighter accessory.) Is that likely to have some voltage protection built in?

DrBouvenstein posted:

I plan to have this use 12V (from a car's supply) but can easily use a voltage regulator to send that down (even though I think I'm ok since this is rated for up to 16V.)

Salami Surgeon posted:

What's a fairly simple way to protect inputs in an auto application? I've seen some decent power supply circuits and automotive voltage regulators, but those applications were using a car's 12V power and isolating everything else. What if you wanted to read a switched battery or ignition signal as an input to a microcontroller?