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Justa Dandelion posted:
"Useful" depends on the use and material. I print tons of handles, hooks, brackets, and trays for home, workshop, and garden with my low-end FDM printer and the cheapest, stupidest filament (PLA).
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Jan 15, 2022 19:59
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I'd say that is useful. I'm hoping it gets to the point some day where you can print poo poo like a washing machine piece by piece and assemble it at home. Just had to replace the furnace at our house because the blower motor was going out along with the circuit board, inducer, and heat sensor. Would have been cool to just be able to print those parts on demand because the parts cost alone ended up being close to half the cost of a new furnace.
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Jan 15, 2022 20:12
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Blue tape on a magnetic flexible build tape? Go/No go. I like my blue tape.
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Jan 15, 2022 20:25
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Justa Dandelion posted:I'd say that is useful. I'm hoping it gets to the point some day where you can print poo poo like a washing machine piece by piece and assemble it at home. Just had to replace the furnace at our house because the blower motor was going out along with the circuit board, inducer, and heat sensor. Would have been cool to just be able to print those parts on demand because the parts cost alone ended up being close to half the cost of a new furnace. A printed part, almost by definition, is never going to be cheaper than an equivalent mass-produced part[1], and all of those things are highly complex things that are never going to be amenable to printing. If nothing else just think about the sheer amount of different materials that are involved in a motor, let alone a circuit board. 3D printing isn't a replicator that can magic up complex parts out of nowhere, it's just another tool that can be used in making things, and while it's extremely flexible and a lot easier to pick up and play with than, say, wood turning it's still just one tool, very good at the things it's good at (making complex physical objects from a fairly narrow range of materials). [1] Well, depending on the markup and all sorts of other factors. I printed out a couple of hinges for my shed door which have actually proven considerably sturdier than the originals and the *marginal* cost to me worked out cheaper because the originals are stupidly expensive, but I still needed to pay for the printer and the filament up front, design the part (and teach myself CAD in the process), do multiple test runs, etc etc.
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Jan 15, 2022 20:27
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I found this model that I like (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5174304), but it's clearly meant for a resin printer. I figured I'd try it on the ol Prusa as a sort of torture test, and I'll be goddamned if it didn't do it successfully for the most part.   Turned out way better than I had expected, but you'll notice I lost a lot of the feather tips and the point of the beak. I seem to have that problem a lot though, I'll lose tips and small bits that don't start on the build plate. Like, they'll print ok but get knocked loose somehow. Anyone have any suggestions on that?
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Jan 15, 2022 20:51
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I am about to print something that uses the whole build plate of the LK1 and I am unsure how to insure that it sticks everywhere, MBL seems to be at it's limit.
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Jan 15, 2022 21:25
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I have found a few sites that specifically list by model replacement knobs, handles etc for printing to fix your washer or what have you. You might need to pay $1 for the model but once you pay a reasonable amount for someone's work you really open up the options
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Jan 15, 2022 21:28
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Welp, cleaned and lubed the X-axis and it didn't help at all. I think the next step is to disassemble the X and Y axes entirely and re-lube the linear bearings. Maybe they didn't get lubed right at manufacturing? I only have one print left for Wingspan, but not enough filament to finish it, so I figure since it's been printing fine so far another print or two won't hurt -- I've got more filament on the way, so once that arrives I'll finish the Wingspan print, then swap in PETG and print the replacement right foot/electronics housing for the printer. Then I can take it apart, lube the bearings (or order new ones if it turns out the ones it shipped with are completely hosed somehow), install the new housing, put it all back together, and print the rest of the PETG stuff I want. My biggest concern here is that printing with the linear bearings in suboptimal condition might damage the steppers somehow, but I've already done 200+ hours on it with it in this condition, I figure another 15 or so won't break it and it saves me having to disassemble the printer twice. Justa Dandelion posted:I'd say that is useful. I'm hoping it gets to the point some day where you can print poo poo like a washing machine piece by piece and assemble it at home. Just had to replace the furnace at our house because the blower motor was going out along with the circuit board, inducer, and heat sensor. Would have been cool to just be able to print those parts on demand because the parts cost alone ended up being close to half the cost of a new furnace. None of those things are amenable to 3d printing, so having a printer would not have saved you there. More generally, though, yeah, it can be useful; I use mine to print lots of decorative things, and lately it's been doing almost nothing but board game boxes, but I've also used it for customized storage compartments for my electronics workbench, little friction-fit clippy things to keep the hooks on our Ikea kitchen furniture from constantly popping loose, door hardware, pet enclosure hardware, custom cases for electronics projects, mounting brackets for stuff. It's harder to say whether it's cost-effective. Some of the stuff I print I definitely could have purchased instead, but it was faster and easier to print it (and once you factor in shipping costs and import duties, often cheaper as well). Other things I've made would have involved compromises on functionality or aesthetics or both if I had bought it instead, and printing let me customize it to perfectly fit my use case; and in a few cases, like the hook clips, no-one makes anything like that and I had to design it from scratch. So, in that sense, yes, it is -- but you have to balance that against the time spent doing CAD work (for my part, I enjoy CAD and definitely prefer it to trying to shop for the exact thing I need, but that's hardly universal) and the fact that the printer itself cost ~$500. ToxicFrog fucked around with this message at 21:52 on Jan 15, 2022 |
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Jan 15, 2022 21:30
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SEKCobra posted:I am about to print something that uses the whole build plate of the LK1 and I am unsure how to insure that it sticks everywhere, MBL seems to be at it's limit. glue glue glue glue glue glue glue glue glue gluuuuuue
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Jan 15, 2022 21:58
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Does FEP degrade when printed through? In other words, should I be moving around where I'm printing models on the build plate in order to wear the FEP more evenly?
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Jan 15, 2022 22:10
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goddamnedtwisto posted:A printed part, almost by definition, is never going to be cheaper than an equivalent mass-produced part[1], and all of those things are highly complex things that are never going to be amenable to printing. If nothing else just think about the sheer amount of different materials that are involved in a motor, let alone a circuit board. I think a great application for 3D printing -- one that we are close to -- will be service people with a printer in their van, and a connection to printable models of simple parts for a whole catalog of household appliances. Fridges, washing machines, dishwashers, etc. Does a repair require a simple part that is either no longer sold, not available, 2+ weeks out due to special order, or is for a discontinued model? Just download the part and print it, come back to install in a couple hours or whatever. That would have real value. Mass produced parts would be cheaper, but not if they're unavailable in the first place, they aren't.
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Jan 15, 2022 22:53
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The Eyes Have It posted:I think a great application for 3D printing -- one that we are close to -- will be service people with a printer in their van, and a connection to printable models of simple parts for a whole catalog of household appliances. Fridges, washing machines, dishwashers, etc. Except there's just not many parts on any appliance that a) are likely to be fail and b) of mechanically simple enough construction that printed replacements would be practical. Modern manufacturing techniques have got this down to an incredibly fine art. In fridges, dishwashers and washing machines really the only 3D printable parts are the seals (*maybe* a couple of ancillaries like shelves etc might be amenable to printing) but by the time the seals are starting to let go multiple non-printable components (motors, pumps, ECUs, etc) will also be on the way out so really you're only going to be able to extend their lives a little before getting into the "This part was made in one factory in Tajikistan that has since burned down" problem that you're talking about, except now not being able to print a replacement. Also I suspect something like a washing machine main seal (40+ centimetres diameter, complex shape, exposed to extremes of temperature and oils and detergents) would be an absolute *nightmare* to print. Yes, this is undoubtedly a problem with the modern consumer society, but that's just an even bigger problem 3D printing can't help with. Like I say, 3D printing is an incredibly useful tool but it's fundamentally a limited one.
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Jan 15, 2022 23:17
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blugu64 posted:Blue tape on a magnetic flexible build tape? Go/No go. Why are you using blue tape? I assume that you have a removable bed there, is it not PEI? (Yes, you can, but why?)
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Jan 15, 2022 23:19
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I've never put anything on my plate at all. glue, hairspray, etc, seems unnecessary
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Jan 15, 2022 23:49
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snail posted:Why are you using blue tape? I assume that you have a removable bed there, is it not PEI? I like my blue tape. It just works for me and I basically never have to fiddle with adhesion. Just replace it now and again. My bed isn’t removable, but I figure if I can get a couple flexible build plates. It’ll be pretty quick to turn around.
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Jan 15, 2022 23:52
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Ghostnuke posted:I've never put anything on my plate at all. glue, hairspray, etc, seems unnecessary It should not be, until it is. Some combination of ambient temp, small part footprints, extruder movements, sun spots , etc and I just throw some glue stick down. It's cheap insurance for a small part that won't connect to the main until 8 hours into a 43 hour print I came downstairs to a formally perfectly fine printers and found the fitting on the hotend side of the extruder popped off, and it just fed raw filament all over everything. No melting, but after cleaning it up and heating up the hot end again, I just can't get the path clear. I keep swabbing it out and get a glob here and there, but with the nozzle completely off I have blockage. I think the heatbreak might have some melting and that will be a bit of a bitch to clean out, at least without a total disassemble. Sometimes this is really frustrating
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Jan 15, 2022 23:55
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blugu64 posted:I like my blue tape. It just works for me and I basically never have to fiddle with adhesion. Just replace it now and again. I used it a lot in the past, but nowadays I don't bother, finding it less capable than a good PEI bed. Energetic on AliExpress are my go to for spring steel swappable PEI. I replied because I did try blue tape on a steel sheet just recently, and yeah it works as blue tape does. My question was more about why persist given there are (IMO) better options that aren't expensive.
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Jan 16, 2022 00:04
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What's the ideal print surface for PETG now? I have a PEI sheet and I'm worried it will stick too hard and damage it. I also have a glass bed and blue tape but 
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Jan 16, 2022 00:08
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Rexxed posted:Devon from Maker's Muse was on the Safety Third podcast with William Osman, The Backyard Scientist, and Allen Pan (Sufficiently Advanced) this week...
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Jan 16, 2022 00:33
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Zorro KingOfEngland posted:Does FEP degrade when printed through? In other words, should I be moving around where I'm printing models on the build plate in order to wear the FEP more evenly? Yes, and no. Yes, it does degrade with use, no, it’s not worth worrying about moving around on the build plate unless you’re doing something weird like printing the same small part over and over hundreds of times. Properly handled, a FEP can last months.
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Jan 16, 2022 00:36
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Combat Pretzel posted:I looked into this out of boredom, especially because they had some Youtube personas on I regularly watch. I know it's supposed to be casual, but they're talking over each other so so so so goddamn much... Yeah, I like all of those creators, but I couldn't manage five minutes of their podcast. Maybe eventually they'll figure it out and it'll be enjoyable.
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Jan 16, 2022 00:41
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Cool Dad posted:What's the ideal print surface for PETG now? I have a PEI sheet and I'm worried it will stick too hard and damage it. I also have a glass bed and blue tape but I always liked a glass bed with glue stick. It will actually stick really well with no glue stick, to the point where it will never come off. i own every Bionicle fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Jan 16, 2022 |
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Jan 16, 2022 01:08
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Cool Dad posted:What's the ideal print surface for PETG now? I have a PEI sheet and I'm worried it will stick too hard and damage it. I also have a glass bed and blue tape but Textured PEI
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Jan 16, 2022 01:27
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St. Blaize posted:do you have any specific mods you recommend for the ender 3? i actually got a couple of the microcenter specials for family as gifts and would love to make life easier for them Pretty much parroting what others have said but I got an ender 3 v2 and upgraded it with raspi 4b to run octoprint w/ a raspi camera. Cr-touch (creality's bl touch auto bed leveling sensor), Micro swiss all metal hotend, e3d nozzle X 0.4 mm and a bondtech 0.4 mm cht nozzle depending on material type. Capricorn tubing (I got the tough tube from th3dstudio.com) and their magnetic flex bed system. Stiffer bed springs, aluminum extruder. I think all of those combined with the marlin unified bed leveling firmware make it a pretty competent machine. I'm still toying with the idea of buying a prusa mini as I want a second printer now, but have been very happy with the ender 3 v2 purchase so far!  Here's a small vase I did with matterhackers quantum pla that's split down the middle with two colors. It has such a crazy color shift when you turn it that doesn't really show through here. edit:  Also done a couple prints in the month I've owned it. Opinionated fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Jan 16, 2022 |
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Jan 16, 2022 01:29
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I have an e3 pro with almost none of that stuff - just the steel/pei bed, stiffer springs, and non-plastic extruder. It works great for everything I need to do with it. Apparently I got lucky in not getting a print bed shaped like a pringle; ymmv?
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Jan 16, 2022 01:34
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Doctor Zero posted:Yes, and no. Thanks, I had been doing it out of habit from my form2. Formlabs is very specific that their vats (whatever their equivalent of FEP is) degrade from the laser being shot through it, so they strongly recommend moving builds around the plate (they even provide a cool visualization/heatmap of your vat's historical use so you know which parts of the vat are used more often).
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Jan 16, 2022 01:47
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Paradoxish posted:Watch this guy's video: Jesus Christ I can't thank you enough for this vid. Spent today building this thing and I absolutely would not have been able to do it without the vid. Or really I would have but everything would have been calibrated to poo poo. The included instructions are terrible to try and make sense of and this guy went over so many little things about making sure things are aligned or tightened right that I would have had no idea whatsoever about. I haven't printed anything just yet but I can already tell you saved me hours and hours of frustrated troubleshooting.
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Jan 16, 2022 04:03
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Sockser posted:Textured PEI Seconding this. I have a powder coated textured spring steel plate and it is amazing for PETG.
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Jan 16, 2022 05:06
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I have used the Prusa satin sheet for everything (pls, petg, PVB). The only damage came from not waiting for it to cool. Everything just pops off after it cools. It's really nice.
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Jan 16, 2022 14:58
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ZincBoy posted:Seconding this. I have a powder coated textured spring steel plate and it is amazing for PETG. alternately, get one with a smooth side as well. When printing things with a large flat surface area on the top and bottom, its kinda poopy to have the textured surface on one side and a smooth surface on the top
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Jan 16, 2022 15:13
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Thanks for the upgrade recommendations for the ender everyone! Ordered them the stiff springs and i actually got them bltouch sensors to start off with as that seemed helpful. What is the proper setup for the bltouch? i cannot find consistent instructions anywhere. my brother in law tried printing after installation and the printer ended up dragging the nozzle through the print and the bltouch sensor never retracts during a print, it blinks red what is the unified firmware? looks like i need an arduino to install it, but what do i get from it?
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Jan 16, 2022 15:44
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Hey all, I am new to the hobby. I got a voxelab aquila x2 as a Christmas present; not sure how it compares but it seems pretty intuitive and went together easy. I successfully printed one of the test models that came with it. My goal now is to print Little People-scale dollhouse furniture for my daughter. So far, not going perfectly. This is my second attempt at a table. Its a little better than the first. It seems to start ok doing the table top, but then I get a blob like this (when I've walked away, of course). The first time I thought it just came unstuck from the baseplate, so I guessed cold basement was the problem and set the base plate temp to 62c for this try. This time it just seems to have globbed. I'm not sure what to look at first - machine configuration, environmental issues, or software/rendering? I'm using the voxelab software that came with it to scale-down models from thingiverse and render to gcode with default options. I'm going to try another of the test models when I have time. Anything I should try or be thinking about?
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Jan 16, 2022 21:38
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Almost looks like it would have had to stop moving and heat itself up some to make a puddle of plastic like that.
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Jan 16, 2022 21:52
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Mindless posted:Anything I should try or be thinking about? - The sample filament sucks - You could be too far away from the bed if the print is detaching - Prusa slicer's ender 3 v2 profile works great on my voxelab aquila (non-x2) with standard PLA profile (the temps in the profile Just Work)
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Jan 16, 2022 22:34
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Mindless posted:The first time I thought it just came unstuck from the baseplate, so I guessed cold basement was the problem and set the base plate temp to 62c for this try. This time it just seems to have globbed. Looks like it came unstuck from the plate and moved around with the nozzle. Does that happen when it is starting to print the table legs? Then it might help to set this to *at least* layer height.  If you change it, also check if this is set to No.  Those setting will move the nozzle a bit upwards any time it needs to be moved around. It helped when I had a filament that barely adhered to the bed, the nozzle should stop pulling the filament sideways or at least with less force. A photo from the other side of the print might help checking if your nozzle height for the first layer is alright.
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Jan 16, 2022 22:50
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St. Blaize posted:Thanks for the upgrade recommendations for the ender everyone! Ordered them the stiff springs and i actually got them bltouch sensors to start off with as that seemed helpful. Unified Bed Leveling is the newest version of bed leveling in Marlin firmware that combines some of the previously used systems. I think the biggest addition is being able to tilt the mesh before each print, you can run G29 J2 to probe 4 points or G29 J3 to probe 9 points, J# being cubed for how many points it tilts the mesh from. It sounds like you maybe got them Ender 3s, not Ender 3 v2? I'm using jyers firmware for my e3v2, it's a precompiled version of marlin. Compiling marlin isn't too hard either but I haven't felt confident enough in flashing the one I made. You can look at his configuration though and fix it to fit the Ender 3 easily enough. If I was more confident in my abilities with it I'd offer to compile it, maybe someone here can! I would guess there isn't much to change really. UBL Jyers overview: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KA8URUR000Q Jyers install, he might have a new video for this too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1zXYwgIPLY Jyers releases: https://github.com/Jyers/Marlin/releases Marlin g29 documentation: https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-ubl.html
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Jan 16, 2022 23:31
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Trying tpu for the first time. Any cool prints I should check out? Any templates out there for making molds?
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Jan 17, 2022 00:39
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Well I have officially completed my first 3d print. This is on my new Ender 3 V2. I feel like I got things leveled out pretty well. What are the next steps as far as calibration go? Should I start dialing in temp etc for this filament? Oddly my pixel 6 pro camera is showing flaws on this print that are invisible just looking at it with the naked eye.         
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Jan 17, 2022 01:31
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Does Chitubox or Lychee support the concept of pre-print "gcode"? I want my build platform to oscillate between Z1 and Z~20 a few dozen times before printing (no exposures at all, just platform movement). In my mind this would stir the resin a bit, which I've always found to help success rates. Is this possible/worth doing?
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Jan 17, 2022 02:21
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Zorro KingOfEngland posted:Does Chitubox or Lychee support the concept of pre-print "gcode"? I want my build platform to oscillate between Z1 and Z~20 a few dozen times before printing (no exposures at all, just platform movement). In my mind this would stir the resin a bit, which I've always found to help success rates. Don't think so, but if you reach out to the lychee devs on discord they're pretty responsive. Might even put it on the backlog
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Jan 17, 2022 02:56
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