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That’s wild. I can only imagine the supports. Would bed leveling only be along a since line rather then a plane?
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Jan 18, 2022 23:49
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blugu64 posted:Got a question for y’all. I’ve seen a video of a printer that’s using a belt as a build platform to print a long sword. How does that work? Is it flipping the Z and Y axises and going layer by layer (albeit with the nozzle at a 90 degree angle)? Some other magic? I have one and it's great fun but quirky to work with. I can print 20-30cm long horizontal overhangs, it's surprisingly fast, and with the rollers it's a pretty large machine. Y is height as most people would think about and if you load the gocde without adjusting for the frame of reference for X and Y, the print is skewed 45 degrees.Think like you turned a normal FDM machine on its side and were squirting out the model like some kind of playdough extruder. I wouldn't ever recommended buying one unless you had some lose change or a very specific need, but I do like mine a lot.
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Jan 19, 2022 00:07
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blugu64 posted:That’s wild. I can only imagine the supports. Would bed leveling only be along a since line rather then a plane? Yes. It's fairly easy once you get your head around it. Supports are the same, it's more about orientation of the part as it can't print some directions well. OTOH I can mash out a single piece 1.5m long sword in as many hours with a 0.8mm nozzle.
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Jan 19, 2022 00:10
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MJP posted:Also, this may be more general electronics questions, but I have a Stepperonline Nema17 1004 motor as the extruder for my Voron. All of a sudden it stopped working after only being in use for a week. The red/blue wire pair shows no resistance when tested; the green/black pair shows normal resistance. Anyone know if I might have done something to cause this? I just had it plugged into the Octopus Pro, as normal. The tests were run on the original wires from the stepper itself, so no bad solders came into play from my end. The flexing at the toolhead broke a wire. Do you use the MicroFit connectors to connect it to the harness?
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Jan 19, 2022 00:22
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I have fixed the ball support problem in prusaslicer! There's a default 0.2mm top support, and an x/y offset, but they're global parameters. Changed them all to 0.1mm It has unfortunately made every other support extremely difficult to remove, lol Trying some other slicers probably this weekend
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Jan 19, 2022 01:15
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MJP posted:Octopus Pro I had to look that up. Does this mean you wont need a Pi if you run Klipper?
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Jan 19, 2022 03:30
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Just got my mk3s+ up and running, doing the test prints. Should I adjust the live z/offset to based on what's happening on the corner of the letters? The base layer on the plate comes off looking great, at least to my newbie eyes. This is the included silver PLA prusament at 210/60 at .2mm layer height on the smooth sheet. 
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Jan 19, 2022 04:25
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No, you are overextruding. Lower the flow rate maybe 3%.
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Jan 19, 2022 04:50
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I lied about all my upgrades going great so far. I can't seem to make it past a 30-60 minute print now with the all-metal hotend by micro swiss. I keep getting jams / filament grinding which I can only guess is from heat creep and something with my retraction  Any print where it starts using a decent amount of retracts it jams up after going for 45-60 minutes usually. Fortunately, the micro swiss support seems really helpful, but I'm close to giving up and going back to the stock hot end.
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Jan 19, 2022 05:00
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Opinionated posted:I lied about all my upgrades going great so far. I can't seem to make it past a 30-60 minute print now with the all-metal hotend by micro swiss. I keep getting jams / filament grinding which I can only guess is from heat creep and something with my retraction Turn retraction off and it's fine?.
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Jan 19, 2022 05:23
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ImplicitAssembler posted:I had to look that up. Does this mean you wont need a Pi if you run Klipper? You need a Pi (or similar-class hardware) to run Klipper, hands-down. The actual interface to the printer can be whatever Arduino-RAMPS-based POS you want, Klipper don't care. The Octopus Pro has the benefit of separate inputs for VMOT (for 48volt) and built-in amplifiers for PT100's. Any faster CPU is wasted with Klipper.
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Jan 19, 2022 05:57
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Turn retraction off and it's fine?. I tried that and it started clicking a ton again right away, made me think there's a clog somewhere else. Took off the tube and replaced it with one that's a bit shorter to reduce length to hotend and made sure the hotend was as clean as possible. Changed the nozzle out and it's working again for now. Ahhh can't seem to get it figured out but it's working right now fingers crossed with 3mm retract at 30mm/s. No idea what speed to use really
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Jan 19, 2022 06:46
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MJP posted:Any thoughts about the Artillery Sidewinder X2? Mine had an issue with the BLtouch probe out of the box, I ended up just returning the unit in favor of a Tronxy X5SA (do not do this). The X2 supposedly does a lot of things very well for what it is. I think the bed's removable/unclippable. I thought about it, but ended up excluding it because of price and because I didn't think I'd need one so big to start.
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Jan 19, 2022 06:47
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Well, just had my first Printer Maintenance Event with the new Mini. New batch of filament arrived, so I warmed the printer up to do the last Wingspan card holder and everything went to poo poo -- underextrusion with extruder slippage. Stopped the print and had a closer look and realized that while sitting in the feed tube for a few days, the translucent filament had shattered into small pieces. I guess I should have unloaded the printer, but this hasn't been an issue with any other filament I've used, and I knew the new filament would be arriving in less than a week (and that once it did, I'd want to finish out this spool anyways). The broken filament had actually gotten wedged halfway through the feed tube and deformed it slightly. I disconnected the feed tube and gently pushed a bunch of PLA gravel out of it, but it turned out the hotend was clogged as well; I ended up having to remove the brass fitting that joins the feed tube to the internal PTFE, fishing another length of (cracked but not completely shattered) filament out of there, then doing a cold pull. Fortunately I didn't need to completely disassemble the hotend and after putting everything back together and redoing first layer calibration it seems to be healthy. The deformation on the feed tube means I now need to be a bit careful when loading filament, so while I can keep using that for now I figure I should get some replacement PTFE tubing. While I'm putting together a parts order, anyone have recommendations for other must-have spare parts for a Prusa Mini? I figure I might grab a spare print fan and heatbreak fan just because if my experience janitoring computers has taught me anything it's that fans love death, but I'm not sure what else is prone to crapping out.
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Jan 19, 2022 15:47
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Yeah, I learned a long time ago to always unload filament if I'm not actively printing (regardless of the printer in question). It always bites you whenever you take it for granted that "it'll be ok". Anybody think the E3D Revo upgrade kit for the Prusa Mini is worth loving with? I'm thinking about it on one hand, but on the other I kinda don't want to gently caress with it as long as it's working. Here is the reference info for, uh, reference: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/117149-prusa-mini-upgrade-e3d-revo-micro Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 16:38 on Jan 19, 2022 |
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Jan 19, 2022 16:32
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Anybody think the E3D Revo upgrade kit for the Prusa Mini is worth loving with? I was thinking about the Revo for the MK3, but after watching the videos on the XL's Nextruder I'm going to wait. If there is any possibility of some of the Nextruder tech trickling down to the Mini or MK3, it would be nice to not get tied to the patented Revo nozzles. Or is that tied to CoreXY or something and never going to happen?
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Jan 19, 2022 17:46
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The extruder is separate from the hotend in most cases, so you're still fine to get into Revo.
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Jan 19, 2022 17:52
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Doesn't the nextruder (or whatever Prusa is calling the hotend they're using with that toolhead) also use unique nozzles? Either way neither should be tied to coreXY motion systems for any particular reason.
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Jan 19, 2022 17:53
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I think Prusa's tool changer just uses a very specific mounting bracket for everything. It shouldn't be too hard to adapt that mounting bracket to other tools (and I think that there may have been mention in one of the interviews with Josef where he said the use of other hotends/etc. was something that was intended as something the end-user could do, but they'd very much be on their own fine-tuning settings/etc.).
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Jan 19, 2022 18:14
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I have this in "End G-Code" in PrusaSlicercode:
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Jan 19, 2022 18:51
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Anybody have experience with adding the laser engraver to the ender 3 V2? Looks like Creality has an official one but I see Cromgrow has a more powerful one that can engrave more stuff like stainless steel. I am sure there are others. Anyone have a suggestion on which one to get? How hard is it to work with? Are there any special types of filament that would let you engrave them?
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Jan 19, 2022 18:56
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RabbitWizard posted:I have this in "End G-Code" in PrusaSlicer Oh, that's a good idea; I think I'll adopt that.
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Jan 19, 2022 18:58
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D-Pad posted:Anybody have experience with adding the laser engraver to the ender 3 V2? Looks like Creality has an official one but I see Cromgrow has a more powerful one that can engrave more stuff like stainless steel. I am sure there are others. Anyone have a suggestion on which one to get? How hard is it to work with? Are there any special types of filament that would let you engrave them? Do not put a laser engraver on a 3d printer thinking you're going to engrave a 3d printed object. They are two entirely different workflows with wildly different safety concerns and you really don't want a laser beam just firing off willy-nilly outside of an enclosure that blocks any chance of the beam hitting your eyeballs (and using one on any 3d printed object is going to produce wild laser beam paths unless 100% of the beam is absorbed by the object).
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Jan 19, 2022 19:30
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D-Pad posted:Anybody have experience with adding the laser engraver to the ender 3 V2? Looks like Creality has an official one but I see Cromgrow has a more powerful one that can engrave more stuff like stainless steel. I am sure there are others. Anyone have a suggestion on which one to get? How hard is it to work with? Are there any special types of filament that would let you engrave them? This looks fascinating. I laser engrave as a job, and I think the success of an engraver like this largely depends on the ability to repeat multiple loops of engraving accurately. Ideally you should be able to leave a piece in place and repeat the job until it's deep enough to be what you want. I don't have any experience with this product but now I want to. I mostly do precious metals, but I have definitely done plastics in a 110 watt laser, not a 500mw one like this. The success of that is based on how fast you can get the loop to go on a low setting. Like, 600 to 800 mm/s with thin lines. Otherwise it melts rapidly. In theory with enough loops you should be able to do steel in spite of what they say, but it would take a long while. The only things that worry me about this is having to manually focus the beam by way of a knob on the lens itself, feels risky. Also errant bounce from a reflective surface. Engraving should not ever be done without direct supervision. Also I would probably find a piece of sacrificial metal under the piece so as not to damage to printer bed. I wouldn't use wood as a sacrificial bed long term, and I'm reading that the engraver comes with wood for the purpose of being an engraving bed. Edit: biracial bear for uncut posted:They are two entirely different workflows with wildly different safety concerns and you really don't want a laser beam just firing off willy-nilly outside of an enclosure that blocks any chance of the beam hitting your eyeballs (and using one on any 3d printed object is going to produce wild laser beam paths unless 100% of the beam is absorbed by the object). 100% this Droogie fucked around with this message at 19:45 on Jan 19, 2022 |
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Jan 19, 2022 19:43
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You can't engrave stainless steel with a half watt diode laser. You can't even do it with a 50 watt carbon dioxide laser, unless you use a special surface treatment that reacts in the heat of the laser to form a black oxide. You might be able to do some very light etching into anodized aluminum, like the engraved text on the bottom of a MacBook, if you go super slowly. But really those tiny blue lasers are best suited for cutting paper to make Christmas cards, or lightly toasting the surface of wooden discs to make coasters. With no shielding on the machine they are rather dangerous, and I personally don't think they add a significant additional capability.
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Jan 19, 2022 19:52
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I mean, I guess it answers the question of what happened to all those lightscribe CD/DVD-ROM bays nobody uses any more.
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Jan 19, 2022 20:25
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Sagebrush posted:You can't engrave stainless steel with a half watt diode laser. You can't even do it with a 50 watt carbon dioxide laser, unless you use a special surface treatment that reacts in the heat of the laser to form a black oxide. Yeah when I mentioned stainless steel I was talking about the stronger version that Comgrow sells that can do it (or at least they claim it can). There are several different strengths you can get apparently: https://www.comgrow.com/collections/engraving/products/20w-laser-engraver-module-kit-for-ender-3-3-pro-3v2?variant=39438266630187 Anyway, I was just curious if anybody had any experience using either of these on an Ender and how the results were.
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Jan 19, 2022 20:36
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I just realized I can use my resin cure station to set my nail polish faster, and I feel like I just discovered some hidden truth of the universe.
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Jan 19, 2022 22:42
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So I'm ready to pull the trigger on buying my first printer and from what little I understand thus far: Is an Ender 3 v2 a good starting point? Will it be too complicated for my dumb rear end to use? I'm looking for something I can play with, the most complex items to make may be some nerd stuff like D&D tiles and Warhammer terrain if possible. I'm sorry if this kinda post shits up the thread, but I've been wanting to do this for a while and finally have the means and space to do it!
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Jan 19, 2022 23:10
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Do you want a hobby printer to tinker with, upgrade parts on and make stuff, or a printer that is more of a device that you can reliably make stuff with without fiddling/tinkering as much? Also what’s your budget like. Prepare for several pages of opinions by the way.
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Jan 19, 2022 23:39
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crime fighting hog posted:Will it be too complicated for my dumb rear end to use? I was wondering if it is better to pick up a used printer than getting a new one as a beginner. I got mine used and I didn't have any problems where I needed to figure out if a part was borked (Creality QA) because the previous owner checked everything for me. I also couldn't gently caress up the build. I feel like lovely parts and tiny errors while building were mentioned a lot in this thread. But maybe I just remember it different because it felt really good that I had spent less money for my printer and didn't have to deal with all of that 
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Jan 20, 2022 00:02
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crime fighting hog posted:So I'm ready to pull the trigger on buying my first printer and from what little I understand thus far: Is an Ender 3 v2 a good starting point? Will it be too complicated for my dumb rear end to use? I'm looking for something I can play with, the most complex items to make may be some nerd stuff like D&D tiles and Warhammer terrain if possible. I couldn't get rid of mine fast enough, but maybe yours will be different
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Jan 20, 2022 00:41
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I came across this massive post on the 3d Printing Reddit (I know, Reddit), and if nothing else it'll introduce you to the various options out there.
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Jan 20, 2022 01:04
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Jedi425 posted:I came across this massive post on the 3d Printing Reddit (I know, Reddit), and if nothing else it'll introduce you to the various options out there. So even though I already have a printer, I took a glance at that because I was curious, and I saw this worrying note: quote:Hotend: Nearly all budget printers will use PTFE lined hotends stock. They can safely print up to a temperature of around 230-240C, but beyond that they will begin releasing fumes that can be dangerous. The temperature range is suitable for PLA, PETG and TPU but for filaments like ABS and nylon, you will ideally want an all-metal hotend, which can sustain temperatures from 275 to 300 C. The Prusa Mini uses a PTFE-lined hotend and their own cold pull instructions have you warming it up to 270° and then standing next to it for a while while you shove filament in and out of it. I did that yesterday, in fact! How concerned should I be? E: it would be kind of hilarious if the reason I've spent most of the day in bed drinking tea and feeling sorry for myself is that I poisoned myself repairing the printer yesterday and not because I'm just sick again E2: looks like the Prusa uses an "all-metal" hotend, which actually means that there's still PTFE above the heatbreak but all the bits that reach print temperature or anywhere near it are metal, so the PTFE should never reach outgassing temperatures. ToxicFrog fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Jan 20, 2022 |
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Jan 20, 2022 01:18
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ToxicFrog posted:So even though I already have a printer, I took a glance at that because I was curious, and I saw this worrying note: You're safe. The Prusa uses PTFE on the cold side of the heat break. That post applies to the Mk8 style hotend where the ptfe sits directly against the nozzle. e: my brain missed the e2:
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Jan 20, 2022 01:46
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So my Mars 3 FEP is a little rough looking for being 2 months old, could that cause dead pixel like effects on my prints? They keep coming out with weird diagonal "slices" of resin missing from the model. I already moved a space heater into my work area to rule out temp issues, what do?
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Jan 20, 2022 01:57
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Ghostnuke posted:I couldn't get rid of mine fast enough, but maybe yours will be different My E3v2 was great out of the box, and even better with the standard upgrades. Sorry you had a bad experience. I still can't get over how quiet the drat thing is.
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Jan 20, 2022 02:00
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I've really enjoyed my Ender 3 v2 as my first printer. As others have stated it's probably the most common printer so the support for it is unmatched. I've heard Prusa has great support though too. Minus my all-metal hotend woes it has been great and very reliable otherwise. Still want a Prusa Mini as my second printer I think... oh and the Ender 3 S1 is pretty intriguing Opinionated fucked around with this message at 02:39 on Jan 20, 2022 |
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Jan 20, 2022 02:35
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AlexDeGruven posted:My E3v2 was great out of the box, and even better with the standard upgrades. Sorry you had a bad experience. I still can't get over how quiet the drat thing is. ok now I know you're lying. mine was loud af
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Jan 20, 2022 02:43
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The only thing very loud about mine is the psu, case and part cooling fan. I wouldn't really consider it loud as gently caress, but I don't sleep in the same room with it so it hasn't been an issue. I did get some 4020 fans to boost my cooling and hotend fans but haven't installed them yet, I think it may make it louder but doesn't matter much in my case.
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Jan 20, 2022 02:54
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