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Considering I have a Dell R710 under my desk. The base fans in an E3v2 are pretty drat quiet overall.
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Jan 20, 2022 03:10
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PleasantDirge posted:So my Mars 3 FEP is a little rough looking for being 2 months old, could that cause dead pixel like effects on my prints? They keep coming out with weird diagonal "slices" of resin missing from the model. I already moved a space heater into my work area to rule out temp issues, what do? Maybe, but Id be checking the lcd underneath. Take a piece of paper, put it on the screen then run the expose test on the machine. Chances are that its busted and will be pretty noticeable Easy fix, and you can probably get elegoo to ship you a new one. If you need it up and running right away, still contact them, but the parts are cheap
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Jan 20, 2022 03:17
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insta posted:You need a Pi (or similar-class hardware) to run Klipper, hands-down. The actual interface to the printer can be whatever Arduino-RAMPS-based POS you want, Klipper don't care. I often use the $17 Rock Pi S with Klipper if I'm not using KlipperScreen or a MIPI camera. Uses practically no power, has wifi, gpio, USB-C, and runs Debian/Ubuntu just fine. People turn their nose up at the 512MB RAM, but only need about 100MB to run Klipper and the rest anyway. The CPU itself is more than fast enough. And I can actually buy them, and cheaply.
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Jan 20, 2022 03:33
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Ghostnuke posted:ok now I know you're lying. mine was loud af There seems to be a lot of variation in printer noise even within the same model, I have some people saying that their Prusa Mini is quiet enough to share a bedroom with, meanwhile mine (especially the Y-axis) is loud enough to hear it in the next room, with the door closed, with the printer mounted on a tile and foam. Either that or some people have permanent hearing damage from sharing their bedrooms with 3d printers for years.
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Jan 20, 2022 05:19
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Ghostnuke posted:ok now I know you're lying. mine was loud af Yeah this must be something specific to your model. Mine is quite af and I can barely hear it from 10 feet away. I sleep next to it and unless I specifically focus I can't hear it.
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Jan 20, 2022 09:04
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snail posted:I often use the $17 Rock Pi S with Klipper if I'm not using KlipperScreen or a MIPI camera. Uses practically no power, has wifi, gpio, USB-C, and runs Debian/Ubuntu just fine. People turn their nose up at the 512MB RAM, but only need about 100MB to run Klipper and the rest anyway. The CPU itself is more than fast enough. This is interesting 
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Jan 20, 2022 12:52
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D-Pad posted:Yeah this must be something specific to your model. Mine is quite af and I can barely hear it from 10 feet away. I sleep next to it and unless I specifically focus I can't hear it. maybe that's part of why it sucked so hard
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Jan 20, 2022 16:09
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I've successfully printed some longer prints now with some Polymaker PLA Pro, but it's the only one I've been able to really use much of lately. Thankfully micro swiss has excellent support and the service rep asked for pictures, a video of how my fan was running and I was able to show him slicer settings etc. They're going to send me a new hot end since I'm having a bunch of issues with other materials still!
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Jan 20, 2022 17:42
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Kind of an aside in this thread, but anyone have any experience gluing broken figurines? I really don't want to reprint on of the models I had painted. Any place to go to find out what kind of glue I should use or any kind of tips in using it.
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Jan 20, 2022 18:25
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ninjoatse.cx posted:Kind of an aside in this thread, but anyone have any experience gluing broken figurines? I really don't want to reprint on of the models I had painted. Any place to go to find out what kind of glue I should use or any kind of tips in using it. Superglue. I got some gorilla glue, because it was the cheapest for a good size and it works wonders. I broke over a dozen minis when I knocked a container to the floor, and managed to put them all together pretty well - painted them after and you can't even tell. If it's a super thin piece that snapped, like a sword or antenna or something, you might have to reprint, but I'm lazy so I just over-glue it (to the point where the glue spot is twice as thick as the rest) and then knife/file it down again. Do not use plastic glue. It literally does not bind to resin. Edit: I re-read what you said about them already being painted. You should still be fine, but you might have to do a tiny bit of paint touchup, as the paint might have flaked off during the break. Also when using superglue, it can sometimes take a surprising amount of time to set depending on what your doing. Blow on it, hold it under a warm lamp, should speed things up. Edit edit: and you will accidentally glue a mini to your fingers at some point. When that happens, wait for the glue to dry and then twist the model off. Don't pull, it's more likely to damage the mini, twisting works the best. Fashionable Jorts fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Jan 20, 2022 |
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Jan 20, 2022 18:35
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Fashionable Jorts posted:Superglue. I got some gorilla glue, because it was the cheapest for a good size !NOTE! Superglue means cyanoacrylate glue. The Gorilla glue company makes a CA glue product, which is clear and comes in a small bottle with a green lid. They also make their original Gorilla Glue product, which is a polyurethane glue, and it is dark brown and comes in a slightly larger bottle with a white lid. The polyurethane glue foams up and turns crunchy and yellow when it cures and is totally unsuitable for gluing small models together. Make sure you get cyanoacrylate glue. The Gorilla brand is fine. Fashionable Jorts posted:
Cyanoacrylate cures by reacting with water. You can speed it up by wiping one side of the joint with a damp cloth and putting glue on the other before joining them. There are also chemical accelerators you can buy that will cure the glue in under 5 seconds. Useful for teeny tiny pieces. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Jan 20, 2022 |
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Jan 20, 2022 19:28
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Sagebrush posted:!NOTE! Superglue means cyanoacrylate glue. The Gorilla glue company makes a CA glue product, which is clear and comes in a small bottle with a green lid. They also make their original Gorilla Glue product, which is a polyurethane glue, and it is dark brown and comes in a slightly larger bottle with a white lid. The polyurethane glue foams up and turns crunchy and yellow when it cures and is totally unsuitable for gluing small models together. Minor note: The basic gorilla CA glue has a blue cap The one with the green cap is their CA glue "gel" which is a bit more viscous and sometimes a better call But the gel will definitely leave some nasty blobs on small models
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Jan 20, 2022 19:39
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I have the brown gorilla glue and was kinda surprised it was mentioned since my previous attempts to use it resulted in parts being misaligned as it foamed up. I'll look for proper cyanoacrylate glue. Thanks to both of you!
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Jan 20, 2022 19:41
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I legit had no idea there was such differences in types of superglue, I usually buy whatever is on the shelves at hobby stores that aren't labelled "plastic glue". The gorilla glue I have is the blue cap stuff, and it works great for me.
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Jan 20, 2022 20:29
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Most CA accelerators are just acetone btw.
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Jan 20, 2022 22:38
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ToxicFrog posted:Either that or some people have permanent hearing damage from sharing their bedrooms with 3d printers for years. More people have ~significant~ hearing damage than you'd imagine. And even more are less aware of what damage they do have. SEKCobra posted:Most CA accelerators are just acetone btw. None of them smell like acetone to me..... ToxicFrog posted:So even though I already have a printer, I took a glance at that because I was curious, and I saw this worrying note: You shouldn't. Like.. at all. Even after printing a whole voron's worth of parts, the PTFE tube on my Ender looks fine. It's not degraded. This, I'm starting to believe, is a theoretical problem, that unless you sit there, with an empty hot end, and a non functioning heat break... you'll never acutally hurt enough teflon to do a thing to you. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polytetrafluoroethylene Hmmpf. Maybe people are mistaking the binder material from PTFE breaking down? Your hot end isn't getting to 300c. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Jan 20, 2022 |
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Jan 20, 2022 22:55
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SEKCobra posted:Most CA accelerators are just acetone btw. I worry that might dissolve the resin used in the print itself.
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Jan 20, 2022 23:04
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ninjoatse.cx posted:I worry that might dissolve the resin used in the print itself. What DOES make sense, it it might be bleach. Which is much closer to what it smells like. The formulas I found are all ~basic~. https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-activator-of-super-glue-made-of https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/homemade-ca-glue-accelerator/ This agrees with my nose and how my hands feel after using it. "No, it's not acetone" Nerobro fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Jan 20, 2022 |
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Jan 20, 2022 23:15
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I use the Bob Smith brand of superglue accelerator (found on Amazon, etc.), and it's definitely not acetone. I'd say it has a look, odor, and consistency that's very similar to that of WD-40.
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Jan 20, 2022 23:19
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SEKCobra posted:Most CA accelerators are just acetone btw. Definitely not. Some (namely Loctite 7452) are, but many are other things. I use 713, which is 2-Propanol and N,N-Dimethyl-p-toluidine and 770, which is n-Heptane. For woodworking, many of them are just bleach and water or baking soda and water. There's a huge range of "accelerators", many of which are supposed to be paired with specific adhesives. There's a reason that Henkel makes like 4 million products. You'll definitely want to make sure the accelerator doesn't weaken/craze the resin, not attack it directly.
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Jan 20, 2022 23:29
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w00tmonger posted:Maybe, but Id be checking the lcd underneath. So the screen is fine but I did a tank clean and the sheet that came out def has a star shaped defect that has a central point and radiates out from there to the edge of the piece. The lines aren't missing from the sheet so much as a thinness that shouldn't exist from a uniform 20 second exposure
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Jan 21, 2022 00:11
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Well I realized I made a mistake flashing my ender…accidentally pulled the bugfix branch heh. On a good note, works a lot better then I’d expect from a bugfix branch to work.
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Jan 21, 2022 00:48
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SEKCobra posted:Most CA accelerators are just acetone btw. Technically correct (the best kind of correct), but you won't have much luck putting straight acetone on your parts. Most CA accelerators are indeed primarily some kind of solvent by volume -- though I've seen hexane more often than acetone -- but the solvent is not the key chemical. It's just a carrier for the active ingredient. The cyanoacrylate polymerization reaction requires hydroxide (OH-) ions to proceed. Water has hydroxide ions naturally floating around, so atmospheric moisture is usually enough to get the reaction going. Alkaline solutions have many more of those ions, which is why sharkytm is talking about using bleach or baking soda solutions. The chemical used in most accelerators is toluidine, which is a weak base; I'm not enough of a chemist to say why this is better than bleach, though. It might just be that you can dissolve toluidine in an organic solvent that evaporates quickly, leaving a film of the base on the surface to be glued without the mess of something like a watery bleach solution. On that note, here's a fun little molecule:  It is cellulose, the natural polymer in things like cotton. Look at all those OHs all over it! Six of them per monomer. Cellulose is a great cyanoacrylate accelerator. In fact, it works so well that if you spill superglue on a cotton garment, it can get hot enough to burn you, or even to set the cloth on fire. Be careful! 
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Jan 21, 2022 00:51
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That explains some of the burns on my thighs from building model airplanes as a young teen.
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Jan 21, 2022 01:06
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I've taken to using small dabs of UV resin in some instances instead of CA glue. A quick hit with the UV light and it's tacky or better and allows me to move on much faster than CA.
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Jan 21, 2022 03:24
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Sagebrush posted:Technically correct (the best kind of correct), but you won't have much luck putting straight acetone on your parts. Most CA accelerators are indeed primarily some kind of solvent by volume -- though I've seen hexane more often than acetone -- but the solvent is not the key chemical. It's just a carrier for the active ingredient. I didn't mean to suggest people use acetone as a "cheap" accelerator, I just wanted to give a heads-up about the accelerator possibly destroying the things you want to glue. (Especially ABS)
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Jan 21, 2022 09:08
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I just got an ad for Micro Center doing $99 Ender 3s for new customers. It was through Instagram, so I guess see if the “get Offer” thing shows up for you: https://instagram.com/microcenter?utm_medium=copy_link
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Jan 21, 2022 19:21
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Klipper is too dangerous for some people. Friend of mine wanted me to set it up on his modded Artillery Genius, so I did. Now there are a bunch of issues to adapt, but generally the thing prints and does so fine. But now he's getting impatient (I'm not on emergency call for a device that works), and figured to just look up random configurations from other people and is just trying them out and wondering why poo poo goes sideways. Note I mentioned "modded" earlier, which he just barely managed without burning down the house, and he still doesn't know the actual wiring or port functions. So random canned configs aren't guaranteed to work. Having the ability to change a printer's complete configuration within seconds is a bad thing, especially when you look like this trying to actually read and understand the config:  Marlin's requirement to run the IDE to compile things, then having to flash the results, seems to be an appropriate obstacle for people like this. --edit: Also, Octoprint extrapolating spline curves from the edge of the mesh to the defined edge of the bed kind of made me chase my tail for a good five minutes, too, because it indicated a huge bow in the bed that isn't actually there. Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Jan 21, 2022 |
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Jan 21, 2022 19:55
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I've got a delta printer I'm kind of interested in putting Klipper on (the Monoprice Delta Pro printer that they originally had for like $1,400 and then decided to sell off for $300/piece when nobody bought them when discontinuing the printer--which is when I snagged one because that was "Why not?" territory for a 270mm diameter x 300mm tall print area), but the weird combination of hardware on it and opaque nature of it has me hesitant about doing so. And that particular printer is just random enough that finding any sort of modifications on the firmware side of things is pretty drat difficult. There was one Reddit post that had a guide to flashing the firmware Atom2.0 uses for their deltas onto it, but it doesn't use Marlin or any other named firmware I'm aware of. EDIT: The printer still works as-is, mind you. I just want to gently caress with it since it's my experimentation machine. EDIT 2: Found the old Reddit post I mentioned, and I did the same thing that OP did updating the Lerdge firmware: https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/kcsr5g/monoprice_delta_pro_what_i_had_to_find_out_the/ Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Jan 21, 2022 |
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Jan 21, 2022 20:26
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So how is Voron Design paying the bills? I’m assuming it’s not all volunteer work, but I’m just trying to understand their business model.
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Jan 21, 2022 22:50
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It's all volunteer work. There's ways to donate, IIRC, which pays for the web server and Discord and poo poo like that. And for gear acquisition for the engineering guys, IIRC. When selecting components for new features, there's a lot of churn trying to find reliable stuff (from China).
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Jan 21, 2022 22:54
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Also worth keeping in mind that its not a business… no one is trying to make money directly by designing this stuff.
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Jan 21, 2022 23:09
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Okay, I wasn’t sure if they had locked down firmware or something like that.
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Jan 21, 2022 23:21
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Nope, it's largely a mechanical design. You can wire it up like you want and run whatever firmware, so long it has enough drivers and supports the respective bed tramming methods of the printer model you're trying to build. It's heavily suggested to run Klipper, but there's quite a few people running RRF. You can probably find some lone masochist still doing Marlin on a V2.4.
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Jan 21, 2022 23:27
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Dr. Despair posted:Also worth keeping in mind that its not a business… no one is trying to make money directly by designing this stuff. I'd legitimately love them to contact a couple companies and make some "voron approved" printers though.
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Jan 21, 2022 23:43
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blugu64 posted:So how is Voron Design paying the bills? I’m assuming it’s not all volunteer work, but I’m just trying to understand their business model. Combat Pretzel posted:Nope, it's largely a mechanical design. You can wire it up like you want and run whatever firmware, so long it has enough drivers and supports the respective bed tramming methods of the printer model you're trying to build. It's heavily suggested to run Klipper, but there's quite a few people running RRF. You can probably find some lone masochist still doing Marlin on a V2.4. blugu64 posted:Okay, I wasn’t sure if they had locked down firmware or something like that. It's not a business model. It's 100% volunteer. There's some donations (I'm one of them) to cover things like... paying for hosting. I'm not sure it's a mechanical design.. really. You've got the V0, which is almost a makerbot, the V1 which is nearly an ender 5, the V2 which is a fixed bed flying gantry, the Trident which is what you get when you want to improve an Ender 5, the Switchwire which is "lets use Core** on a bedflinger". I think voron is best described as a set of best practices. This goes from building the frame, down to the software you use. There's deviations all over the place. https://3dprintersforants.com/ for example. Nero3d's TallBoi. And others. I emphasize that voron isn't magic. If you apply the voron group philosophies to.. whatever.. you're running, you're gonna get voron grade prints. Getting a voron grade print, is about having the printer itself setup well. What the Voron group has done, is cut through the bullshit. ~what they say works~ works. And you're welcome to do whatever you want with what they've done. The printer designs they publish, are very, very good. essentially every choice made was made with care, and the construction was designed to be made. (I say this time and again as well, so much of this hobby is just supposed to magic into place.. and there is no magic. Ever.) They prescribe a set of parts, set of sofware, that ~absolutely will work~. But you're also free to chose what makes you comfortable. So while there isn't a firmware locked down, Klipper is the best choice. Slicing? SuperSlicer has voron bits integrated, there's a reason for that. But I use PrusaSlicer becuase... well.. it feels familiar. There's emphasis on knowing why things happen, and how to deal with them. Also, the Voron group essentially never goes "just print slower" or "this always worked for me" without the reasons behind it. It's the community coming together to build the printer that no company will sell. You.. can't.. sell a Voron. I mean, technically you can, but if you run the numbers, with a 14 hour build, 30-50 hours of break in, tuning time, etc... you're well into commercial territory. The KITS at chinese prices, are more than complete off the shelf printers. But, even though it's "expensive" it's also a thing that you can build. And you'll end up with as good as you can get short of the cost of a car. The Voron group has added a lot to the 3d printing community. Printer designs be damned. But the printer designs are what gave them the social capital to say "this is the way".
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Jan 22, 2022 00:15
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Nerobro posted:30-50 hours of break in, 30-50 hours break in? Why?
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Jan 22, 2022 01:37
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ImplicitAssembler posted:30-50 hours break in? Why? I'd assume Learning how the machine works, catching bullshit that cropped up due to messing up a step in the build, etc
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Jan 22, 2022 02:19
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w00tmonger posted:I'd assume Learning how the machine works, catching bullshit that cropped up due to messing up a step in the build, etc Sure, but he's talking about building them commercially.
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Jan 22, 2022 02:40
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Just put some TPU through the paces doing some vacuum attachment nozzles and my kids are clamoring for me to print a squishy doodad. Anyone have any fun suggestions of something to print in TPU?
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Jan 22, 2022 04:17
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