|
Outrail posted:Can you peel the sticker off the old door? I've found several sites that will print new stickers, but you have to be a body shop for them to print one for you. I had my mechanic put on the new door, and they sent me pics of the original sticker, but the door is probably scrapped now. I guess I'll get the mechanic to request a new sticker if the inspection guy gives me any grief. Thanks for the ideas, goons!
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2022 07:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 19:50 |
|
|
GOD IS BED posted:I just had my driver's side door replaced by my mechanic. He recommended getting a replacement door VIN sticker for ease of inspections, but it seems you have to be an actual body shop to order a replacement. Is this worth my time to get a replacement? Or is explaining that it's not the original door enough? My car has a vin plate in the engine bay above the wheel arch, and matching on the factory glass, as well as in the door (not on the door, but the car body where the door closes). I don't know how it works where you live but there may be other places to verify the vin beyond the door sticker.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2022 20:12
|
|
|
I asked in the hot hatch thread, but it's a dumb enough question I suppose I'll ask here too. I'm a dummy about suspensions for the most part. I've got a 2019 GTI w/ DCC and I want to lower it an inch or two. Is there an easy way to do that without impacting the DCC, or dropping $$$ on Bilstein DCC coilovers? Eliminating some wheel gap would be cool, but not thousands of dollars cool.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2022 20:15
|
|
|
You can use lowering springs in theory, and this can come out nice, but typically is not done well. This would also require a shock upgrade to account for shorter stroke/higher frequency input. Coilovers are really the way to go if you want to do it right.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2022 21:08
|
|
|
Thanks, that's kinda what I figured. I'll just take the wheel gap comments in stride.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2022 21:20
|
|
|
I wouldn't even consider coilovers less than $2k on a 2019 GTI because the original equipment is going to be really good already, just not the 'right' ride height. If you go to cheap KYB struts and lowering springs (for example) I think you'll hate the ride quality relative to OEM. On an older one like my 2007 GTI it's more reasonable because the struts are old, probably about to fail anyways, and there are less interconnected systems that will freak out if something seems out of spec.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2022 22:23
|
|
|
How often should I change my brake fluid? My old project car has had the same fluid for around 20 years, I'm pretty sure it needs changed out. Same question with tires. The BF Goodrich radials have about 3000 miles and 20 years on them. Probably need to be replaced next spring too, right?
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2022 02:18
|
|
|
Every other year on brakefluid or when it gets dark. its hydrophilic. Your tires are definitely ready for replacement. 5-7 years with those.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2022 02:30
|
|
|
Just ordered a 2022 Ford Ranger Tremor The Tremors seem to get snapped up as soon as they come in stock around here so, since it's a want and not a need and I can afford to wait, I just ordered one so I could get it how I want. Couple of questions. - Any idea of the ETA? Dealer told me 8-12 weeks but thought I'd check with folks here. - I'm inclined to lease for 36 months and then assess my options between the next gen Ranger, Rivian R1T, and whatever else might be available then, which I will purchase rather than lease. With that in mind, I ordered the paint protection film since I imagine I'll want to return the leased truck in as good of condition as possible. But I will do a fair amount of off roading and overlanding. What are your thoughts about leasing in this situation? Might be better just to buy since pickups retain their value so well? I don't have to decide until it comes in and I pick it up. Thanks all, excited to take delivery when it gets here!
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2022 06:20
|
|
|
I thought the general advice in AI when it comes to leases is "Never lease a vehicle unless you have so much money you want to just give it to a car dealership on a bad financial deal; there is literally never a scenario where leasing makes more financial sense than just regular financing and trading in later".
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2022 12:38
|
|
|
If you're planning on offroading it, I think leasing it would be the worst possible option for you. Leasing is for people who get company cars.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2022 14:05
|
|
|
I leased because it's an EV and I don't want to deal with the next gen stuff (that seems to come very often in EV tech right now) dragging down the residual value. Also never leased so thought I'd try it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2022 14:23
|
|
|
I think leasing EVs right now is a pretty good idea for that reason, depending on residual. I probably would have leased my Mach-e except Ford doesn’t have their Ford Options lease thing in Nevada for legal reasons. Three years from now there’s going to be a lot more readily available Model Y alternatives out there so it’s probably not going to be great for resale values. Leasing caps your max loss due to depreciation. But I think it’s Porsche has super low residual values for the Taycan so it can still be a terrible idea to lease depending on the actual numbers.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2022 14:38
|
|
|
I need to buy tires for my 2007 Acura sedan. Never bought tires before. I've heard friends say it's best to order online and pay labor only for a shop to put them on. Not sure how that works. Do I order and ship to the shop? Would the shop be pissed that I'm not buying the tires from them and using them for labor only?
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2022 15:22
|
|
|
Howard Phillips posted:I need to buy tires for my 2007 Acura sedan. Never bought tires before. I've heard friends say it's best to order online and pay labor only for a shop to put them on. Not sure how that works. Do I order and ship to the shop? Would the shop be pissed that I'm not buying the tires from them and using them for labor only?
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2022 15:27
|
|
|
The other part is that "order online and pay for local installation" could be a cost savings 20 years ago when shops would mount and balance even walk-in tires for $5-10 each. I haven't found any online source that beats Discount Tire and/or Costco by any significant amount after factoring in installation.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2022 15:42
|
|
|
Cage posted:Unless you make a deal with them beforehand just have them shipped to your house and bring them over. No they won't mind charging you $60 for 30 minutes of labor. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2022 15:43
|
|
|
I've leased our last 3 cars that my wife primarily drives. Leasing works out for us, but we're probably the exception, not the rule. With the car market being as crazy as it is, and super low interest rates, it's probably a wash at the end of a 36 month comparison.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2022 16:33
|
|
|
The best time to lease was 3/4 years ago, so your lease started before this insane market, where you could instantly make $10k+ because your residual buyout was so low. No one signing a lease then could have predicted this, obviously. In the end, a lease is a financial tool to turn capex into opex. If you aren't running a business this is completely irrelevant and I'm always suspicious about people saying it worked out better for them but never providing actual numbers.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2022 16:38
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:The other part is that "order online and pay for local installation" could be a cost savings 20 years ago when shops would mount and balance even walk-in tires for $5-10 each. YMMV but tire rack prices have significantly beat Just Tires and every mechanic I’ve seen that sells tires, at least in my area. And that’s after shipping. Usually $100 or so difference for a set of 4. Sometimes they will price match if you pester them about it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2022 16:41
|
|
|
Motronic posted:The best time to lease was 3/4 years ago, so your lease started before this insane market, where you could instantly make $10k+ because your residual buyout was so low. If leases always allow capex into opex, why does the tax system enable deductions for leases but not purchases? I never understood why businesses were so incentivized to lease vs. buy, it seems they can deduct lease payments but no portion of purchase payments. Phone posting so double post.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2022 16:45
|
|
|
Inner Light posted:If leases always allow capex into opex, why does the tax system enable deductions for leases but not purchases? I never understood why businesses were so incentivized to lease vs. buy, it seems they can deduct lease payments but no portion of purchase payments. You can deduct purchases. Only up to a certain amount or you have to amortize it over several years according to an IRS schedule for that type of asset. It's typically less per year than a lease. This is not deducting "payments" but rather deducting asset depreciation. It has nothing to do with how the asset is or isn't financed. This isn't even getting into why a lot of businesses would rather not have these things "on their books" as assets and why it's better looking to have an opex burn rather than a huge capex budget.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2022 16:53
|
|
|
I guess the simple way to look at it in my specific situation, where I'm quite sure I'll go with a different vehicle in 3 years, is that the payments for a purchase will be ~$200 more per month then the lease. That's about $7500 more I'll spend over 3 years. Will that be more or less than the depreciation on the vehicle. If that number is more than the depreciation, I should buy. If the depreciation is more than $7500, I should lease. Right? Cause if the depreciation is less I can sell and come out ahead (ignoring the interest for the time being, I should qualify for the 0.9% APR so it shouldn't be a huge factor). So, will there be more than $7500 of depreciation on a $49k Ford Ranger Tremor in 3 years? I feel like the answer is yes, barely.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2022 17:21
|
|
|
regulargonzalez posted:I guess the simple way to look at it in my specific situation, where I'm quite sure I'll go with a different vehicle in 3 years, is that the payments for a purchase will be ~$200 more per month then the lease. That's about $7500 more I'll spend over 3 years. Will that be more or less than the depreciation on the vehicle. If that number is more than the depreciation, I should buy. If the depreciation is more than $7500, I should lease. Right? Cause if the depreciation is less I can sell and come out ahead (ignoring the interest for the time being, I should qualify for the 0.9% APR so it shouldn't be a huge factor). So let's look at this a different way: do you think that banks who write leases are better or worse than you, a random car buyer, at predicting future value/depreciation of a vehicle? Also, do you think these same banks are willing to subsidize your car buying or are they in business to make money? On that last one, there are absolutely factory finance arms that are in fact willing to subsidize your lease, but we're talking Mercedes and other top luxury brands. Most of the time I see people leasing they are talking about exactly what you are: not actual savings. but better cashflow. While that may be a decision you choose to make, don't delude yourself into thinking it's the financially prudent decision. That whole line of thought is very "shopping based on monthly payments"-adjacent.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2022 17:28
|
|
|
regulargonzalez posted:Just ordered a 2022 Ford Ranger Tremor I think the most accurate response or estimate would be "lol". I was at a dealership this past weekend, and they said they usually have 5-600 cars on the lot. They're currently <100 with piles and piles of orders. And there's dumb things preventing them from actually getting inventory, like a lack of IC chips needed to make internal USB ports work. And lack of other materials, lack of labor, lack of trucks to actually make the deliveries, lack of container ships from overseas with necessary parts, etc. I leased my Grand Cherokee 3 years ago, planning to just go from that to a 2022 model with the same features. The WK2 platform has been around for super long, so way back in 2019 I figured there'd be nothing getting in the way of getting a new one when they come out. I'd just spec it out in October after the announcement, and swap out vehicles in January when the lease was up. Well, my lease is up, and when I went into the dealership to buy it for the pre-negotiated cost the sales guy asked if I had any interest in buying/leasing something else. I asked if they had any 2022 Grand Cherokees with the High Altitude package and he sighed and went "no.. and we probably won't for 18 months." regulargonzalez posted:I guess the simple way to look at it in my specific situation, where I'm quite sure I'll go with a different vehicle in 3 years, is that the payments for a purchase will be ~$200 more per month then the lease. That's about $7500 more I'll spend over 3 years. Will that be more or less than the depreciation on the vehicle. If that number is more than the depreciation, I should buy. If the depreciation is more than $7500, I should lease. Right? Cause if the depreciation is less I can sell and come out ahead (ignoring the interest for the time being, I should qualify for the 0.9% APR so it shouldn't be a huge factor). Roll the dice. Right now I could sell my Grand Cherokee for probably what it cost new. Same thing with my Hellcat. If they can fix the supply chain issues, the resale values will go back down to what could be considered normal, but there's no way to accurately predict that right now. Either way, if you're planning on only keeping it for 3 years, a lease is obviously cheaper. I leased my Grand Cherokee because I fully expected to trade it in, and didn't want anything to do with mechanical failures. I also have 4 other vehicles, so I didn't need to care about the annual mileage limitations. Either way it's all based on your circumstances. If it makes sense for you to lease, no one can tell you otherwise. But you're probably going to be sitting on that spec sheet without a pickup to show for it for quite a while.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2022 17:32
|
|
|
Strife posted:if you're planning on only keeping it for 3 years, a lease is obviously cheaper. These are the types of statements I've yet to see someone explain. Just because your monthly payments are lower doesn't make this a true statement.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2022 17:35
|
|
|
Motronic posted:These are the types of statements I've yet to see someone explain. Just because your monthly payments are lower doesn't make this a true statement. regulargonzalez posted:I guess the simple way to look at it in my specific situation, where I'm quite sure I'll go with a different vehicle in 3 years, is that the payments for a purchase will be ~$200 more per month then the lease. That's about $7500 more I'll spend over 3 years. Will that be more or less than the depreciation on the vehicle. If that number is more than the depreciation, I should buy. If the depreciation is more than $7500, I should lease. Right? Cause if the depreciation is less I can sell and come out ahead (ignoring the interest for the time being, I should qualify for the 0.9% APR so it shouldn't be a huge factor).
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2022 17:42
|
|
|
I have a feeling that I'll have the luxury of time to decide; the Ranger is built on the same platform and at the same plant as the Bronco and Ford has something like a 4 year backlog on Broncos right now. I have to think they'll prioritize Bronco manufacture, especially with this being the last year of the current Ranger.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2022 17:49
|
|
|
Thread, I've got a 2013 Audi A4. Direct injection only. If the oil change interval is 10k, would you all recommend shortening that to 7.5k or so if I am interested in longevity for this thing? It doesn't have particularly severe duty but there's a significant amount of stop/go and short trips, so it's not easy highway duty either. Mechanics I've spoken to in the past have poopoo'd the maintenance schedule of 10k, saying it is too long between changes and is primarily a way for Audi to advertise longer duration / cheaper maintenance. These days I don't think I'll even make it to 7.5k miles in a year so I'm doing the 12 month change regardless.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2022 17:54
|
|
|
I change the oil in my cars every 5K or 12 months. It's not that expensive and it's decent piece of mind. If you're super worried about it, send off a sample to blackstone like a previous poster mentioned.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2022 18:03
|
|
|
Strife posted:I think the most accurate response or estimate would be "lol". I was at a dealership this past weekend, and they said they usually have 5-600 cars on the lot. They're currently <100 with piles and piles of orders. And there's dumb things preventing them from actually getting inventory, like a lack of IC chips needed to make internal USB ports work. And lack of other materials, lack of labor, lack of trucks to actually make the deliveries, lack of container ships from overseas with necessary parts, etc. I ordered my 2021 SRT Durango and it was 8 weeks from order to delivery. Lots of factors and not everything is going to take months and months to build. It depends on what you want and what you want to pay.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2022 18:05
|
|
|
E: IDK, too confusing
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2022 18:17
|
|
|
Howard Phillips posted:I need to buy tires for my 2007 Acura sedan. Never bought tires before. I've heard friends say it's best to order online and pay labor only for a shop to put them on. Not sure how that works. Do I order and ship to the shop? Would the shop be pissed that I'm not buying the tires from them and using them for labor only? If you go through Tire Rack, they have a system in place with independent installers that let's you ship to them and they install on your car.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2022 19:18
|
|
|
Howard Phillips posted:Would the shop be pissed that I'm not buying the tires from them and using them for labor only? They make their money on labor, not parts. They don't care where the tires are coming from. Motronic posted:These are the types of statements I've yet to see someone explain. Just because your monthly payments are lower doesn't make this a true statement. This is what I was looking at when I leased my Jeep Lease: Payment - $560/mo Warranty - Fully included Oil changes - Included Tires/wheels - Possibly included (I didn't opt for tires, but wheel coverage was in my lease) Excise taxes - Deferred until lease-end Finance: Payment - $1,089/mo for 60 months at 3.4% Warranty - Expires after 3yr; extended warranty $1200/yr Oil changes - $100/6k miles Tires wheels - $200/yr to swap seasonally; $1100/set Excise taxes - Due immediately. $25 per $1k The only way you'd currently save money on lease-to-own, is, as someone else said, to lease it 3 years ago. But if your monthly budget includes the cost of the lease, and you expect to keep that budgeted amount indefinitely, you're paying less over time while upgrading your ride every 3 years.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2022 19:25
|
|
|
Strife posted:The only way you'd currently save money on lease-to-own, is, as someone else said, to lease it 3 years ago. But if your monthly budget includes the cost of the lease, and you expect to keep that budgeted amount indefinitely, you're paying less over time while upgrading your ride every 3 years. Or you could buy it and then sell it after three years to "upgrade your ride". Or every 2 years. Or at 3.5 years. Doing this not only gives you flexibility but when done with a sensible down payment and terms (and especially in a climate of super low interest rates) to begin with you just might end up NOT having that amount budgeted indefinitely and perhaps even have it go down over time. Remember, your lease dictates an amount of miles and how long you will be on the hook. If you exceed this mileage you will pay handsomely. If you undershoot the mileage you don't get anything back, you just gave a windfall to the leasing company. If your commute changes, you lose your job and need to down size.....none of these things are possible to do (without huge financial penalties) except for at the end of each lease. And in the end, more times than not, your overall cost will be higher for the lease. And again, I'm not talking about monthly payments. I'm talking about overall cost from day of purchase to day of sale/trade-in.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2022 19:43
|
|
|
https://leasehackr.com/ Only lease if you get an insane deal
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2022 15:08
|
|
|
Head Bee Guy posted:https://leasehackr.com/ And, in my years of loosely perusing leasehackr, the days of “insane deals” on leases are pretty much gone. Yes you will find exceptions to the rule with dealers in small towns writing crazy low prices for some reason, but I haven’t found a surefire way to land a good deal on popular models. Kind of like how FlyerTalk used to “hack” airfares and nowadays that’s much harder as companies have digitized and gotten smarter about preserving revenue.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2022 16:41
|
|
|
My car was hit last night while parked outside of my house and I found what seem like pretty identifiable parts of the car that hit mine; intact fog light, the molding around the fog light, and a big piece of trim from above the wheel with a QR code and other numbers on it that I couldn't manage to read or find anything on google. Any idea what'd be the best way to try and find out what car it came from? https://imgur.com/a/Z4LfyR6 *edited in link to pictures Shyfted One fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Jan 21, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2022 22:21
|
|
|
Posting pictures here is a start. There are some gifted goons at identifying stuff.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2022 22:30
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 24, 2024 19:50 |
|
|
Foglight itself is a generic aftermarket LED. The one hit on "FDR-L-1-E2" I found points at an eBay listing for a 2018-2020 Crosstrek. https://www.ebay.com/itm/154758041468 Edit: checks out 
IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Jan 21, 2022 |
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2022 22:32
|
|