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If they want to shill me something that's worth while... That's fine but this dashboard of all of my accounts is super useful. If only it'd let me also import I-Bonds from Treasury Direct, my HSA and even points on my AMEX that'd be freaking phenomenal.
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Jan 16, 2022 03:25
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Crosby B. Alfred posted:If they want to shill me something that's worth while... That's fine but this dashboard of all of my accounts is super useful. If only it'd let me also import I-Bonds from Treasury Direct, my HSA and even points on my AMEX that'd be freaking phenomenal. 1. You can just manually enter the Treasury Direct I-Bonds: it's not like they update very frequently anyways. 2. My Fidelity HSA works just fine. 3. AMEX points should not be a part of a net worth calculation.
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Jan 16, 2022 03:51
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Points and Frequent Flyer status should be tracked using: https://awardwallet.com
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Jan 16, 2022 04:42
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I started using Personal Capital, and they won’t let me connect my HMBradley account.
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Jan 16, 2022 04:49
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Here's a interesting question, I've determined I am ahead on my retirement savings and I'm curious what various projections would look like if I were to say stop investing at <$Date(s)> how much would have when I retire? For example, if I keep maxing out my 401k but in five years, or eight years or 12 years how much would I have? I take it something like this probably doesn't exist and my best bet is to spreadsheet it out...
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Jan 16, 2022 05:26
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Crosby B. Alfred posted:Here's a interesting question, Rule of 72 for whatever expected return guesses you have. Call it 10% nominal for 100% US equities, with no additional contributions, you'd expect to have double your current amount in about 7ish years. But it could be less than what you have today. Or much, much more.
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Jan 16, 2022 05:53
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CubicalSucrose posted:Rule of 72 for whatever expected return guesses you have. Call it 10% nominal for 100% US equities, with no additional contributions, you'd expect to have double your current amount in about 7ish years. But it could be less than what you have today. Or much, much more. I was just looking up the Rule of 72 for someone, I used this http://www.moneychimp.com/features/rule72.htm
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Jan 16, 2022 06:03
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By spreadsheet it out do you mean calculate all your math manually? Or are you using the functions? Because it seems easy to do what you want with a couple functions. Future value: FV(rate, number of periods, payment, present value) So for 8 years of contributions, 20 years after that to retirement FV(10%,8,16500,1000000) FV(10%,20,0,[previous FV])
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Jan 16, 2022 06:48
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Crosby B. Alfred posted:Here's a interesting question,
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Jan 16, 2022 18:50
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dexter6 posted:I made this, you might find it helpful. Let me know if you have any questions. It's possibly overly complicated and overly simplistic at the same time... https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...pub?output=xlsx Uhh, that thing is adding the withdrawal to the balance rather than subtracting from it. At its default, the settings at age 50 show 22k in turns, 45k in withdrawal, and yet goes from 325k at the beginning of the year to 392. The more I withdraw, faster I get to mega millions! On the assumptions tab if you change the withdrawal amount to -45000, it makes more sense.
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Jan 16, 2022 19:57
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SpelledBackwards posted:Uhh, that thing is adding the withdrawal to the balance rather than subtracting from it. At its default, the settings at age 50 show 22k in turns, 45k in withdrawal, and yet goes from 325k at the beginning of the year to 392. The more I withdraw, faster I get to mega millions! Thanks, fixed. I had it correct in my personal version but when I migrated it to google sheets to post I had to fix every formula!
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Jan 16, 2022 20:16
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If I just bought the max i-bonds in December, I should rebuy the max this month as well, right? Still at 7.x%?
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Jan 17, 2022 17:51
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gvibes posted:If I just bought the max i-bonds in December, I should rebuy the max this month as well, right? Still at 7.x%? https://www.treasurydirect.gov/indiv/research/indepth/ibonds/res_ibonds_iratesandterms.htm#change The new rates are set each November and May, but the rates of your I Bonds are locked in for six months from the month of purchase. I Bonds you purchase in January will earn the November CPI rate (currently 7.12%) until July 1, when the CPI recalculation from May would take effect on January I Bonds. Changes to the CPI will apply to any I Bonds you buy, while the fixed rate is set at the time of purchase and sticks for the life of the bond. If you think the fixed rate will go up in May or November, then waiting may be the slightly more advantageous move for the long term. On the other hand, inflation is here now and compounding is better to start sooner rather than later, so I'd say just buy in if you're prepared (emergency funds set aside, I Bonds make sense for your financial plan) and ready (understand the rules behind I Bonds and accept CPI being manipulated while your money's locked up). Full disclosure: I maxed my I Bonds in November last year and this month.
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Jan 17, 2022 18:36
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gvibes posted:If I just bought the max i-bonds in December, I should rebuy the max this month as well, right? Still at 7.x%? I bought in December and will buy again this month. I don’t expect to hold them to maturity (unless inflation persists or really worsens) so I want to start the clock.
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Jan 17, 2022 19:21
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Book (well, chapter) review. Kotlikoff "Money Magic" the house chapter. Hmm, opening paragraphquote:I'm going to take you through a range of housing issues, including ... why a mortgage is a financial and tax loser, how using your retirement-account money to pay off your mortgage can pay off big time, ... and the best way to free trapped equity, which may entail using an expensive mechanism called a reverse mortgage. The "pay off the mortgage" bit he bases entirely off one example of a couple in their 60s with a mortgage balance of 20% of retirement account balance. The reverse mortgage bit he starts by saying they might be bad but- ...I dunno I didn't read 10 pages of details on reverse mortgages (chapter is 40 pages) Title seems appropriate. If you watch for his sleight of hand you can still learn something. If a paid off house is the major part of your net worth, you may have liquidity issues and need to use a really bad financial product! He also seems to gloss over the opportunity cost of safer bets
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Jan 17, 2022 21:36
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From what you said he also seems to gloss over that big boy net worth doesn't include your primary residence because it's, ya know, a money pit that you live in which generates no income.
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Jan 17, 2022 21:43
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Ya it was kinda stunning, it's what made me want to share. Like, is he avoiding saying it to sell more books to boomers who planned poorly? Sorry you saved nothing for retirement and bought too much house. Now your only option is to use the equivalent of a pay day loan place, to keep the charade going a bit longer. Cuz moving to a smaller house wouldn't do at all. (He talks about downsizing but it gets far fewer pages) You didn't want to leave anything to the kids anyway. The "use your retirement to pay off your mortgage, one weird trick" thing makes a bit more sense, like, it's contrarian and could generate a buzz. Of course he's technically correct in the specific scenario he outlines, but seems a bit of a dick move to state the conclusion generally. Good to remember it's full of traps out there.
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Jan 18, 2022 03:42
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dexter6 posted:I made this, you might find it helpful. Let me know if you have any questions. It's possibly overly complicated and overly simplistic at the same time... https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...pub?output=xlsx Thanks for providing this. Question: What's Social Security "attain %"? Comment for everyone: this tool is useful as heck, but don't rely on it, because it is ignoring sequence-of-returns risk and assuming "average" returns every year, instead of a mix of good & bad returns. A sequence of good returns while your net balance is low, followed by bad returns right at the end of your biggest savings/accumulating years could significantly shift the results while still averaging out over the whole period to the assumed average return. https://www.investopedia.com/terms/s/sequence-risk.asp This is why I was asking about monte carlo sims earlier: what they basically do is take all your assumptions and then plug in a whole bunch of different "reasonable" (or sometimes, actual historical) sequences of annual returns, plot each of them on a line chart. You can see the average, standard deviation, etc. and you can make good judgements based on that visual data, like "in nearly all scenarios, I still have money through the day I die" vs. "Gosh, in 45% of these scenarios, I run out of money at age 85, that's not good" and adjust your savings & investments accordingly. So tools like the one dexter6 posted are good starting points for a more detailed/comprehensive plan.
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Jan 19, 2022 00:42
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Leperflesh posted:Thanks for providing this. I figured, what the heck, I’ll throw a number out there way out in the future but then hedge my bets a lot.
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Jan 19, 2022 05:05
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Oh, so you put in today's SS estimated payout, and then it multiplies that by the Attain %? Because on the social security site, it has a tool where you can put in your expected average future salary and it'll adjust upward the number you get; and while we can assume that number will go up with inflation, that's true of all the other numbers in the calculation and I think it's better to just assume all numbers in the sheet are "expressed in today's dollars" and reduce your expected returns by the expected rate of inflation to get a todays-dollars result.
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Jan 19, 2022 20:57
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Leperflesh posted:Oh, so you put in today's SS estimated payout, and then it multiplies that by the Attain %? Because on the social security site, it has a tool where you can put in your expected average future salary and it'll adjust upward the number you get; and while we can assume that number will go up with inflation, that's true of all the other numbers in the calculation and I think it's better to just assume all numbers in the sheet are "expressed in today's dollars" and reduce your expected returns by the expected rate of inflation to get a todays-dollars result.
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Jan 19, 2022 21:36
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Salami Surgeon posted:By spreadsheet it out do you mean calculate all your math manually? Or are you using the functions? Because it seems easy to do what you want with a couple functions. I think this is what I need but the formula isn't working out as I expected... What I really want to know how is long will it take for me to reach my retirement goals of whatever dollar amount or if I leave my job now, let my investments ride what would I end up with in retirement? For example, row 2 shows my current 401k balance and I want the whole column to show the value if I just kept contributions with my employer match until I retire. I want column c to show the value of my investment if I just let it ride at a conservative 6% interest until I'm 55 or with column D if I waited until 60 years old. The super advanced option is what would be the impact to my earnings if I take a break, don't contribute for a year or two but then start doing so again. 
Gucci Loafers fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Jan 20, 2022 |
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Jan 20, 2022 02:31
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Ah OK. I think I see what you mean A few things first that I did not explain in my previous post: - The way that financial functions work is that cash out is negative and cash in is positive. Opening a savings (or 401k) is cash "out" (you pay a bank this amount). Contributing to a savings (or 401k) is cash "out". The account balance is cash "in". A loan is cash "in" (a bank pays you for your collateral). A loan payment is cash "out". Opening a savings or 401k and contributing annually for 20 years: =FV(3.5%,20,-10800,0) result is positive because that is your account cash value Principle on a 30 year mortgage after 20 years: =FV(3.5%,20,-10800,200000) result is negative because that's what you still owe Balance on a savings account with a 200k starting balance after contributing annually for 20 years: =FV(3.5%,20,-10800,-200000) positive, cash in the account Balance on a 401k after taking annual distributions for 20 years =FV(3.5%,20,10800,-200000) positive, still have cash in the account - Compounding is done per period =FV(3.5%,20,10800,0) is compounded yearly =FV(3.5%/12,20*12,10800/12,0) is compounded monthly Sorry if it seems like I'm talking down to you or past you. The financial functions can be simple when you know how to use them but unintuitive and confusing if you don't. Back to what I think you want: Column B is your "present value" at year x from Column A Column C is "future value" at age 55 if no more contributions since year x Column D is "future value" at age 60 if no more contributions since year x So B2=FV(6%,A2,-[annual contributions],-[current balance/present value]) C2=FV(6%,55-[your age]-A2,-[annual contributions],-B2) D2=FV(6%,60-[your age]-A2,-[annual contributions],-B2)
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Jan 20, 2022 08:18
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Personally I don't like giant spreadsheets so I'll keep it simple to something like this A6=fv(B2,B4-B3, B5,B1) A7=fv(B2,55-B4, 0,-B6) A8=fv(B2,60-B4, 0,-B6) A9=fv(B2,65-B4, 0,-B6) Basic financial functions: PV=present value RATE=interest rate NPER=number of periods PMT=payment FV=future value
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Jan 20, 2022 08:26
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When does an order in the Vanguard website for a Vanguard mutual fund execute? If I submit it before market closes, does it execute at the day's closing price? What if I submit it after hours?
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Jan 20, 2022 21:41
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lwoodio posted:When does an order in the Vanguard website for a Vanguard mutual fund execute? If I submit it before market closes, does it execute at the day's closing price? What if I submit it after hours? If submitted during trading hours, it'll execute at end of the trading day at the closing NAV. If submitted after hours, it'll execute at the end of the next trading day at closing NAV.
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Jan 20, 2022 21:44
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Christ, Treasury Direct is loving awful. Couple of weeks before Christmas, I made my account and bought 10k of i-bonds, then because of the janky rear end password entry I hosed up my saved password and got my account locked. Tried 3-4 times to call to get it unlocked and sat on hold for hours plus. Gave up, emailed them through form. Got a call back weeks later from an unknown number from like, West Virginia and turns out it was them. I can back, now the phone number just disconnects after saying they're busy. Emailed again, nothing. This is some straight out of 2003 bullshit.
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Jan 21, 2022 04:37
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Wait until you try to change the bank connected to the TD site.
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Jan 21, 2022 04:51
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Cozmosis posted:Christ, Treasury Direct is loving awful. Welcome to every single federal government service in America
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Jan 21, 2022 05:26
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Cozmosis posted:Christ, Treasury Direct is loving awful. FYI, the stupid password thing is only a client side restriction, you can trivially edit the password box using browser dev tools to allow autofill from a password manager so you dont have to use their keyboard.
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Jan 21, 2022 07:37
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Cozmosis posted:Christ, Treasury Direct is loving awful. Yup, I haven’t bothered to get mine unlocked yet (I only put in $100 to try it so far, so….slightly less pressing for me) and it does seem really bad.
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Jan 21, 2022 14:49
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Vox Nihili posted:Welcome to every single federal government service in America The safest place to invest your money
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Jan 21, 2022 16:17
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Vox Nihili posted:Welcome to every single federal government service in America Woah, woah, woah. Treasury.gov & usaspending.gov are pretty decent now. I tried to get them to let our company update treasury direct, but that's a different bureau and they weren't interested.  This was like 6 years ago when I was still in that sector.
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Jan 21, 2022 16:55
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Honestly treasury direct is kind of a pain but I've only logged in twice over the past year so  .
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Jan 21, 2022 16:57
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Yeah if you log in frequently then you are Doing It Wrong.
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Jan 21, 2022 17:02
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Jason Zweig of WSJ's Intelligent Investor column picked up the Vanguard target date fund taxable event story that was discussed here some number of days ago: https://www.wsj.com/articles/vanguard-target-retirement-tax-bill-surprise-11642781228 part of WSJ story: quote:It happened because big clients left little ones holding the bag. Vanguard’s target funds come in more than one format. Smaller clients get the standard version; big customers like corporate retirement plans get an institutional version with identical holdings at a lower fee.
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Jan 21, 2022 17:34
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Couldn't that have happened to any fund though? Not sure what being a target date fund had to do with it. Unless TDFs are the only funds with tiered expense ratios.
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Jan 21, 2022 17:38
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w.r.t. TreasuryDirect: I've noticed that 1Password, if used to autofill the username, will autofill the password before the client-side javascript blocks the ability to do that. Not sure if other password managers do this, but I've never had to use the awful keyboard thing.
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Jan 21, 2022 17:54
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defmacro posted:w.r.t. TreasuryDirect: I've noticed that 1Password, if used to autofill the username, will autofill the password before the client-side javascript blocks the ability to do that. Not sure if other password managers do this, but I've never had to use the awful keyboard thing. That's great if it works, and I immediately wanted to try it out but just lol: 
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Jan 21, 2022 18:42
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I executed a tax loss harvest trade last week, looks like I get to do it again this afternoon. VTI -> ITOT -> VOO Anybody know what should come next if the slide continues?
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Jan 21, 2022 18:44
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