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I was coming back from the mountains Monday, happily only 25F outside, but it was really nice having a working heater for once. My old YJ was basically full blast defrost for any hour trip below 35F just to keep the windows clear (even with a box of dessicant in there), which usually meant very little left over to heat the cabin. But pressing a few buttons and getting 80F air... pure decadence.
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Dec 25, 2021 00:27
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Ok, some problems cropping up. JKU, 82k, manual transmission. Three times in five miles at the end of a 25 mile trip, car rpms drop to zero. No stall, because it's a manual. First was on a left turn at 5 mph. Second was about a mile later straightaway, 40mph. Third, uphill, 20 mph, about 2 miles later. No engine light, no error codes on the OBD. Thought crankshaft sensor: hammer tap to sensor does not replicate the error. Camshaft sensor, same. Sitting idle for 15 minutes, doesn't replicate. Anyone?
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Dec 29, 2021 21:46
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Do you mean the gauge indicates 0rpm but you're still coasting in gear so the engine is still physically spinning? Is it engine braking during these episodes or driving along normally? Does it go back to normal on it's own or do you need to turn the key off and on again? Does it have a physical key or a pushbutton?
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Dec 29, 2021 21:58
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Cat Hatter posted:Do you mean the gauge indicates 0rpm but you're still coasting in gear so the engine is still physically spinning? Is it engine braking during these episodes or driving along normally? Does it go back to normal on it's own or do you need to turn the key off and on again? Does it have a physical key or a pushbutton? Engine shows zero rpm and engine braking occurs. Goes back to normal, and no interruption in Android auto like would occur if engine shut down. No restart needed. Whole thing is a second in duration, the only thing you'd note if you didn't see the tach is that you get that moment of engine brake.
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Dec 29, 2021 23:26
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Sounds like it may be a momentary loss of electrical power to the ECU for some reason. If you have a way to view live data stream, do so and see if the data stream drops out simultaneously. If it does start looking at anything that can cut power to the ECU - harness damage, TIPM, bad battery connections, any relays and fuses that still exist, loose connectors etc.
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Dec 30, 2021 03:12
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kastein posted:Sounds like it may be a momentary loss of electrical power to the ECU for some reason. If you have a way to view live data stream, do so and see if the data stream drops out simultaneously. If it does start looking at anything that can cut power to the ECU - harness damage, TIPM, bad battery connections, any relays and fuses that still exist, loose connectors etc. Thanks. I'll start nosing around the electrical tomorrow.
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Dec 30, 2021 14:20
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Do any of the other gauges change at the same time? All the gauges in my 99 XJ would sometimes fall down to their off positions because of a loose connection to the back of the guage cluster.
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Dec 30, 2021 16:56
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PBCrunch posted:Do any of the other gauges change at the same time? All the gauges in my 99 XJ would sometimes fall down to their off positions because of a loose connection to the back of the guage cluster. No, and the tach is accurate in that we hit engine braking.
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Dec 31, 2021 01:19
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torgeaux posted:Thanks. I'll start nosing around the electrical tomorrow. Also make sure you don't have a bunch of other keys/rings attached to your key. Sometimes a key can get bumped out of position and then your car would bump-start itself back to life. Probably not your problem, but I'm a fan of looking into the simplest thing first even if it isn't the most likely.
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Jan 1, 2022 04:13
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My wife took delivery of her '22 Gladiator last week. So far we've put about 100 miles on it. We had a 2016 Wrangler for a few years so I'm not a total stranger to the brand, but I don't know how much has changed since then. The UConnect4c is a huge improvement from the 2016 model. I'm comfortable doing hard top removal and whatnot, thought instead of the full soft top she opted for the flip top that only goes where the front roof panels are and leaves the rear roof in place. Anything I should know or look out for?
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Jan 3, 2022 04:47
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Check every. single. fuse. Push in the 75% that aren't fully seated. 4wd and 4L can initially be difficult to dis/engage. It's recommended you do that before needing them. Remember the old trick that backing up a tad can help release stress on the transfer case to aide getting out of 4L. Go in a parking lot some day when it's raining, where you have five car lengths to move forward/backward. I've seen claims of oil loss during break-in but did not experience it in my 2021. Actually break in the engine, 500mi at least. ps I'm happy I got in before the 4C became the only option. Most of the time I have the screen off and am comfortable with the 7" versus "full wide screen 4k HD!" distractor. I am curious how the new thing manages to actually fit since the dash is already a bit cramped (especially since I have a dash bar with 1 to 3 additional head units).
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Jan 3, 2022 18:44
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PhantomOfTheCopier posted:I am curious how the new thing manages to actually fit since the dash is already a bit cramped The same way it fits in the much, much larger Grand Cherokee and RAM dashes: awkwardly. 
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Jan 4, 2022 00:52
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PhantomOfTheCopier posted:4wd and 4L can initially be difficult to dis/engage Do they recommend spare shifter linkage bushings for the JL/JT too? I thought it originally came with the 8.2” option.
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Jan 4, 2022 03:04
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giundy posted:I thought it originally came with the 8.2” option. Reviewing some of the pictures of the dashboards, the 5" obviously looks weird (having the radio control knobs detached from the main center console is strange, but shrug). The 8.4" moves internals around so they can fill in the bottom area. But here's what I realized looking at the pictures. One of those things you do without realizing: The 7" has a plastic strip at the bottom (the bezel, if you will), and I place my thumb there to establish a "fixed lateral position" while driving so I can tap the screen by extending my hand upwards. There's no way I could do that with the 8.4" because my hands aren't big enough, there's no free spot anyway, and just randomly reaching over means hitting the wrong thing or having eyes off road. None of that helps you.  I suppose my only advice for the uconnect is that the user manual isn't that great. Just sit down some time and go through every menu. (ps I've never found a complete list of voice commands, so you have to sit and try them all and see what pops up in the menu. Example, I can say "media, cancel" and then get to the shuffle toggle on the screen, but haven't found a voice command to toggle it)With a screen the size of the 8.4, presumably the passengers in the rear seat are supposed to be your voice command system.  Train them well.* Fairly certain the Rubicon only comes with the Alpine and uconnect 4c based on the order guide. PhantomOfTheCopier fucked around with this message at 07:25 on Jan 4, 2022 |
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Jan 4, 2022 07:22
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I really like the Uconnect. The off-road pages are fun. The menus are fast and responsive. The Nav is great (though more often then not we use Waze/car play). The Sirius actually gets all the channels. Out since sold 2018 Traverse only got up to like 270 something channel wise. The speakers are much improved over the 2016 Wrnagler. Phone calls in the wranger always sounded like talking to somebody in a wind tunnel even with the hardtop on and windows up. With the volume at max it was always hard to hear the call. With the 22 Gladiator it’s easy to hear and sound much better on the other end of the phone. One must add is side steps. I’m 6’3 and it’s a bitch of a step to get into the vehicle. The kids have it even worse. The dealer parts folks told me the 20-21 mopar rails don’t fit the ‘22 and their isint a ‘22 mopar rail yet for the Rubicon. I haven’t really looked aftermarket yet.
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Jan 4, 2022 07:32
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Are you running 50in tires or something?  I have a stock 2021 Rubicon and have no problems getting in the driver or rear seats being all of 5'7" tall (so what, a 29-30" inseam, since leg length matters more than height for this stuff).
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Jan 5, 2022 22:29
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I know it's not a "real" Jeep but I'm hoping this is the right place to ask: I have a 2008 Liberty Sport 4x4 with 195k miles on it. It's been remarkably trouble-free for its entire life, but a couple months ago it started making a random clunking noise while driving under even throttle or while decelerating. It didn't make the noise while accelerating. I took it to the shop and they said it was the main drive shaft (apparently it has a U-joint at one end and a CV joint at the other?). They replaced it, and the noise was... about 90% gone. It was way better. The problem is that the remaining clunking noise has gotten steadily worse over the last couple months. It's much like the original noise, but it's louder and seems to happen most often while turning and going over bumps, though sometimes it's randomly bad while driving under even throttle or decelerating, like before. I called the shop when the noise started up again and they said that by my description it could be sway bar links or something and that it's probably safe to drive for a while. Normally I'd get it fixed right away but I had a lot of stupid bills over the holidays including the original drive shaft repair. Now I'm in a position to get the "new" repair done, but the shop is booked solid for at least two weeks. The noise is making me increasingly nervous. Sometimes I can drive into town and hear nothing. Other times it sounds like I'm going to drop major suspension or driveline parts on the highway. The noise is very random; a couple times it seemed rhythmic like a CV joint when I was making a turn, and the noise continued after I straightened back out. But then it went away on its own. Other times I can be driving in a straight line and it's just randomly clunking without any rhythm at all. Most of the time it doesn't do it while turning but it does it really bad when going over bumps, especially at low speeds like in a rough parking lot. I really can't see any rhyme or reason to it. It is a lot like the previous bumps and clunks from the main drive shaft, so maybe it's one or both of the front shafts? Maybe it's the front shafts AND the sway bar links? It doesn't seem to be the brakes; coasting or getting on the brakes with varying degrees of force does not change the clunking sound at all. I'm bracing myself for the bill. I know I should probably just get a newer vehicle but I really don't want the payment. I also don't have enough money to make a healthy down payment on something newer. On the other hand, if this thing is going to cost me two or three grand to fix, it's going to be a tough call. Other factors: - I have to keep driving this for the time being; my wife's car is in the shop for recall work and who knows how long that will take given how spotty parts availability is at the moment. - This is the most reputable shop in the area and it's run by a coworker's dad; I trust them implicitly as far as the previous repair goes, and as far as any future diagnoses go. Obviously things can change, but I haven't seen any evidence to sour my opinion of them yet. - My commute to work is about fifteen miles each way, mostly on the highway. Since it's going to be a while before I can get this thing into the shop, what are the odds of it failing catastrophically in the near future? Am I good for a few more weeks, or should I get the Liberty off the road ASAP? WSYAI infrared35 fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Jan 6, 2022 |
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Jan 6, 2022 06:10
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All Jeeps are real Jeeps, unless you're a butthead that doesn't think any Jeeps are real Jeeps anyway. Could be the sway bar links. I had one on a Cherokee break clean off and then I had a weird clonking especially when I went over bumps as it dangled into things. If that's the problem, worst case scenario your car is tippier and doesn't handle as well. Try grabbing them and giving a firm wiggle. If they move at all they can make noise and need to be replaced. If you get really ambitious, if you can change a tire you can change a sway bar link.
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Jan 6, 2022 19:42
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Cat Hatter posted:All Jeeps are real Jeeps, unless you're a butthead that doesn't think any Jeeps are real Jeeps anyway. I can change a tire! But thanks, I'll take a look. And my buddies all drive Wranglers. Or, they all did until one of them picked up a Gladiator. I'm even tempted to make fun of him for that.
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Jan 6, 2022 22:27
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infrared35 posted:I can change a tire! But thanks, I'll take a look. "What, was it too hard for people to steal your poo poo out of a Wrangler?" There's a weird hierarchy of Jeep gatekeeping. Even the Wrangler guys get poo poo from guys with older Wranglers until you get to people who have to trailer their rig thats 50%+ tire asking if you're going to drive your Willys Jeep to the mall.
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Jan 6, 2022 22:56
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I would extend "grab it and wiggle" to anything else under the Jeep. My initial thought is maybe the front driveshaft since that will also have some form of flex joints at the transfer case and front differential.
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Jan 6, 2022 23:23
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torgeaux posted:Ok, some problems cropping up. JKU, 82k, manual transmission. Looks like possible electrical issues were already mentioned, and I'm gonna suggest that as well. If you look back the last several pages, I was able to track down and fix a similar issue. My battery terminal cables were heavily corroded. Once I trimmed and cleaned them and then put on new terminals, I didn't have any more problems. IOwnCalculus posted:I would extend "grab it and wiggle" to anything else under the Jeep. My initial thought is maybe the front driveshaft since that will also have some form of flex joints at the transfer case and front differential. The Jeep Thread: Grab it and wiggle
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Jan 7, 2022 00:10
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My wife’s Escape had a similar noise diagnosed by grabbing and wiggling, a broken shock stud. If it’s the front driveshaft you’ll see grease on the CV boot and thrown everywhere. Or ball joints.
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Jan 7, 2022 02:47
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Replaced my york 210 with a remanned one today. remanned one had a pre-stripped screw on the oil fill, guess i'll need to find a timesert kit in that size *sigh* but it spews far less oil now, i should yank the pistons and machine in a second set of rings.
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Jan 7, 2022 21:20
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Cat Hatter posted:"What, was it too hard for people to steal your poo poo out of a Wrangler?" Meanwhile mine looks like it's pretty far up the hierarchy right now but it's open rear diff with no front driveshaft and thus absolutely is capable of getting stuck at the mall in a Seattle snowstorm Or trying to leave the driveway for that matter Or on level flat wet grass  I need to get my new front axle built the rest of the way, rear axle regeared, lockers, etc but I have no time
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Jan 8, 2022 01:12
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Knocking on wood extremely hard as I type this, but still no weird stalling issues or really any other issues to speak of, and the heat's still been working through the cold nights. Really glad I got all this done before the cold days started to hit. Although, I do have to replace my rear O2 sensor. I'm just being lazy about it right now. I may actually have a chance to rebuild the front suspension this year when it warms up!
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Jan 8, 2022 01:15
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The sway bar links are fine. I think I found the source of the noise though. 
infrared35 fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Jan 9, 2022 |
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Jan 9, 2022 04:22
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Love it when a problem makes itself clearly known. Been chasing down what sounds like a bearing failure noise on my TJ, but the drat thing is so loud normally that it's hard to pick out while driving. So last night I decided to try putting the transfer case in neutral and letting the clutch out in gear. Idle in fifth gear sounds pretty gnarly: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=03De1DRGYeg (Video starts clutch in, goes clutch out for ~10 seconds, and then clutch back in) Of course since "transmission in gear and transfer case in neutral" isn't a typical operating mode I don't know for sure if this is normal, but that sounds like a lot of grinding to me. I think I'm probably draining some fluids and looking for glitter.
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Jan 9, 2022 17:32
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Took two more videos today after doing an engine oil change. Under the TJ, case in neutral, fifth gear: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2hpfQJ8WWrU In the seat, rear wheels jacked up, case in 2WD, fifth gear: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pvi-j1pDF9Q Next step is going to be pulling the transfer case off, along with a quick test of just the transmission in fifth gear to make sure the noise isn't in the back half of the NV3550. IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Jan 9, 2022 |
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Jan 9, 2022 23:40
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That sounds pretty horrible. Mechanics stethoscope time?
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Jan 10, 2022 08:19
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So, time for a come to Jeep moment. Since covid, I've been let go from my job at a local college, my hernia has grown from the size of a stress ball to a little larger than a softball and I've bought a 1983 Honda Magna V45 for fun. So needless to say my WJ has sat mostly unused. In the past four months I've lost both my mom and my nana. My Jeep has terminal cancer of the rockers, and the dog leg of the rear drivers side. Am currently hoping for spring and as little use this winter as possible. Will some body filler and paint be enough to get me feeling better about the old rig? Only good thing going for is engine and running gear, paints been shot since I got it, but I wanna at least look halfway respectable.
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Jan 11, 2022 00:47
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kastein posted:That sounds pretty horrible. Mechanics stethoscope time? Honestly it's not that hard to pull the transfer case off in this thing, so I'll just do that for some exploratory surgery. I'm hoping it's the input bearing on the transfer case because of the possibilities, that's probably the easiest to fix. Certainly the cheapest and something I can probably do with tools I already own or can buy at a reasonable cost. If it's actually in the output half of the transmission, then my wallet is up for a beating. NV3550 repairs require specialized tools I don't have, can't fabricate (yet), and can't easily acquire. Thanks to a lack of parts support the NV3550 rebuilds cost about the same as a new AX15, and by most accounts the parts that are available for the NV3550 aren't great. Or I say gently caress it and light money on fire and put in a TR4050. gileadexile posted:So, time for a come to Jeep moment. Since covid, I've been let go from my job at a local college, my hernia has grown from the size of a stress ball to a little larger than a softball and I've bought a 1983 Honda Magna V45 for fun. So needless to say my WJ has sat mostly unused. I don't know how all of you rust-belt people do it.
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Jan 11, 2022 07:39
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It's tiresome dude, not gonna lie. The roads turn to garbage, no matter what you do the road salt gets to everything. Unless you go through a car wash a couple times a week, it ruins everything. When I first bought it, my dad and I dripped oil into the doors. I've done it every year since so the door bottoms are pretty ok. Rust also ate through my oilpan and transmission pan. It's more than a little ridiculous.
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Jan 12, 2022 00:54
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eBay shows some rocker covers for WJs, there's probably weld on panels too that you could metal bond in place to get it decent looking. Body filler is probably the least attractive option. My Jeep has been in the garage since they dropped the first salt on the roads here in Ohio, I feel extremely fortunate I can let it sit salt free.
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Jan 13, 2022 04:57
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giundy posted:eBay shows some rocker covers for WJs, there's probably weld on panels too that you could metal bond in place to get it decent looking. Body filler is probably the least attractive option. Thats why mine has a fiberglass tub and sits in the garage all winter. It will come out for a big snowstorm and to go winter wheeling, it gets rinsed HEAVILY with a garden hose before being garaged.
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Jan 13, 2022 07:02
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This is a big part of why I moved to the PNW, my rotten rear end New England Jeeps won't get any more rotten and anything new I add to the fleet will last forever. I took the ferry to Seattle Monday and I wasn't even the oldest truck on the boat, some guy had a rust free 60-66 Chevy on the second level. In January. In New England my 79 was usually the oldest vehicle I'd see on the road in weeks... In May.
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Jan 13, 2022 09:55
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IOwnCalculus posted:I don't know how all of you rust-belt people do it. Usually it's not so bad if you take it through a carwash every month or so to keep the salt buildup to a minimum. ... At least usually. I took my WK through yesterday and today it was convinced the liftgate was open, presumably because some water got into the sensor. Whatever, I'll deal with it later. Pull out of the garage and drive a mile up the road. Less than an hour later, I come back to my car to find the driver's door lock frozen. I don't mean the lock pins either, I mean I had to climb over from the passenger seat because the door couldn't even be unlocked from the inside until it warned up. It's too loving cold out.
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Jan 15, 2022 07:31
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Driving around in winter storms IS my car wash.
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Jan 15, 2022 18:37
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2016 JK. Now that it’s cold and I need my heat, I have found it has stopped blowing hot air. The blower is strong and the selector changes from floor to vents to defrost. Doing some initial checking online, I checked my heater core hoses and they’re both pretty hot so I think the issue is the blend door actuator. The thing I wanted to check before I start tearing into that is, mine isn’t making any clicking sounds. Some of the videos and posts say there will be clicking if that’s the culprit, but some don’t mention it. I thought I would check here before doing anything. Thanks in advance.
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Jan 21, 2022 17:13
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| # ? Jun 7, 2024 18:53 |
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kastein posted:That sounds pretty horrible. Mechanics stethoscope time? You know, I don't think that'll be necessary to troubleshoot this one 
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Jan 22, 2022 03:17
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